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Finished my DIY curved screen set-up with pics - Page 3

post #61 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by saldog78 View Post

Really? That's cool. I thought you'd need to know the specific characteristics of the HE lens being used. Can't a higher quality lens produce less pincushioning than a lower quality one?


I also thought this statement to be true: higher quality lenses (pricier) advertise less pincushioning. Is it true or not? if so the curvature of the scrreen would also depend on the lense's ability to reduce this effect?
post #62 of 81
TR6 .. Nice job. Looks great, and a very helpful post. I also like the TR6 in the garage.

Now I am trying to find all those that stated they were building an aluminum frame.

I saw that Brite White screen fabric from Vutec and it isnt all that bad.
post #63 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by stef2 View Post

I also thought this statement to be true: higher quality lenses (pricier) advertise less pincushioning. Is it true or not? if so the curvature of the scrreen would also depend on the lense's ability to reduce this effect?

From my research and what I've been told by those "in the know", the variance in pincushion between lenses varies from virtually insignificant to non-existent. In other words, they all pincushion about the same with the same image size and throw ratio.
post #64 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Person99 View Post

From my research and what I've been told by those "in the know", the variance in pincushion between lenses varies from virtually insignificant to non-existent. In other words, they all pincushion about the same with the same image size and throw ratio.

I was looking for pincushion data for various lenses. Could you please give more details or post a pointer.

My thinking is the same. The anamorphic lenses positioned for home use do not have notable correction for pincushioning.
post #65 of 81
Thread Starter 
Just a quick note. I just finished installing electric curtains for side masking on my DYI curved screen and I am very happy with it. I was worried that because of the curve the curtains would stick out too far, but it's not bad at all. Also I was able to program it into my Harmony 880. When friends come over for the first time I'll start the movie with the side masking closed for 16x9 and the remotely open it for Cinemascope, it's a really cool effect.
George
post #66 of 81
Hi George / tr6,

Which powered curtain track did you go with ?

How is the noise level during operation ?

Do you have two sets of curtains, one for masking 16:9 & 2.34 & another set for full closing ?


Thanks,
John
post #67 of 81
Thread Starter 
Hello John, I went with Curtain Call electric curtains model CL-800 which have the 24 volt motor ( I noticed some other companys had 12 volt),The motor is not too loud during operation. I only have one set of curtains which gives me my 16x9 when closed and 2:35 when fully opened. I also slipped metal rods in both ends of the curtains to give me a straight edge. Hope that helps,
George
post #68 of 81
George,

Thanks, thats the model (CL800) I plan to use. It is sold on powercurtain.com also under the same part number.

How far out from the screen surface did you mount the curtain track?

Thanks for sharing.


John
post #69 of 81
Thread Starter 
Hello John I mounted the curtain track about 6 1/2 inches from the wall (you need to get the longer mounts for this) and the actual curtain edges are about 1 3/4 inches from the screen surface when masking for 16x9. When the curtains are fully open for 2:35 they are a little past the screen surface and are about 1/4 inch out from the black velvet border.
George
post #70 of 81
Pretty cool tr6. I've had it in my plans to use the same remote curtain system exactly the way your using it.

I would have to mount mine to my soffit/ceiling above my screen, hopefully the track is pliable enough to follow the curve of my curved screen wall and therefore the screen.

Did you curve the track as close to your screen as possible, or does it go straight across? If I remember the back of your screen and wall are flat

Can you also tell me what is the thickness of the hardware (up and down)? I had to mount my screen higher than I initially thought so I don't have much space (about an inch or so) above my screen's border. I don't mind covering some of my screens border at the top because it is about 3.5" thick but I don't want to cover to much if I go with this.

Don't be shy about posting some pics of the new look
post #71 of 81
Thread Starter 
Hello Oman321, I did not curve my track, I don't think you can ( there are cables running inside the track and I think they would bind if you try to bend it). The mounting brackets are 2 inches long, but if you don't have room on the wall you could probably mount them on the ceiling. I also used a long board and covered it with black velvet as a valance to cover the track. Hope that helps,
George
post #72 of 81
Thanks. Hmmmm.. gonna need to bend though. My screen goes in 3" at the center from the sides but since I only need to go from the fully open to a 16:9 mask hopefully I can slightly arch without making it constrict the cabling. Thanks again.
post #73 of 81
oman321,

You might call some custom drapery shops in your town to see if they can bend your track for a small fee . Not sure if it takes special dies or clamps for every shape of track to hold them so the track doesn't crunch up during the process. Let us know what you find out

John
post #74 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by tr6 View Post

A few more pics I could not fit, The screen shots don't do it justice, it looks alot better in person,
George

I am also jealous!
post #75 of 81
Do I need a curved screen?

I am planning a 2.40 aspect ratio, 173"W and 72"H screen (187" diagonal) with the projector at a distance of 31'.

Using the 'circle calculator' at 1728.com, my 'segment height' (i.e. 'depth of curve' from edge to center) is only 0.84". Is a curved screen necessary, and is it worth the trouble? I understand that it is necessary if the throw distance is small. I am trying to maximize the throw distance for a number of reasons (put the PJ in a different room behind the theater and isolate PJ noise, reduce distortion by minimizing zoom, and reduce the need for curved screens).

Also, I am assuming that the distortion that the curved screen needs to correct for using an anamorphic lens is in only one plane - horizontal, by curving the flat screen in only one radius. There is no need to correct for it in the other vertical plane. Correct?

Thanks.
post #76 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Do I need a curved screen?

Will you use an anamorphic lens?



Quote:


Also, I am assuming that the distortion that the curved screen needs to correct for using an anamorphic lens is in only one plane - horizontal, by curving the flat screen in only one radius. There is no need to correct for it in the other vertical plane. Correct?

Thanks.

Correct. Pincushion is bi-product of horizontal expanding anamorphic lenses, and a curved screen wil correct this. The pincushion can be seen seen in both the V and H directions, however the amount in the vertical is so small that many won't even notice the curvature.
post #77 of 81
Hi George (aka TR6),

How's the theater, still greatly enjoying it ?
post #78 of 81
Thread Starter 
I'm still enjoying my curved screen setup it's been 5 years since I built it & recently upgraded to a "B" stock JVC rs 40 that I got from AVS everything else stayed the same. The new JVC is noticible sharper & brighter & I still can't get over those blacks.
TR6
post #79 of 81
Hey buddy!

Loving the curved screen. Your screenshots are simply awesome!

I'm looking to undertake a similar project. My screen is 4 metres wide and I'm using an Isco II lens.

Just trying to get an understanding of your framework. Is it the case that the top and bottom pieces of timber have simply been cut inwards with a jigsaw and then screwed onto the 2 sidepieces? It looks like you've then screwed a further piece of timber onto the front face? If so, how did you manage to shape the timber?

With temperature changes etc. has the screen frame not warped at all? There doesnt seem to be any bracing to support the centre.

Finally, you say you've velcroed the fabric. Has it held tight over the years? From my experiences with velcro it loosens up after a while as the adhesive weakens. Was stapling an option?

Looking forward to your response. I'm looking to get started in a few weeks.
post #80 of 81
Quote:
Looking forward to your response
There is a good possibility that you could be waiting for a while. This thread is really old, and by his post count, it doesn't look like he posts a lot.
post #81 of 81
Thread Starter 
Hello Get Carter the main frame consisted of 4 pieces of 2 x 6 lumber & the top and bottom pieces were cut in the front with the curve.Then I used 4 pieces of 1 x 4 lumber across the front of the screen top botton & sides I used C-clamps to bend & hold the 1 X 4's across the curve & then nailed them in place. The inside part of the 1 x 4's is where the the screen is held in place with velcro. Yes it has been over 6 years since the build and everything is still in place with no problems, I did install 2 small "L" brackets on the center of the top & bottom 2 X 6 pieces that had the curve to the wall for extra support when I installed it on the wall. Hope that helps & good luck with your screen hope you will enjoy it as much as I have.
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