Viewsonic Pro8100 1080p Projector - Page 115

Although, that does make a good point.. are all the users experiencing banding absolutely sure their ground wire is in fact grounded..??

Nothing. It just allows you to use a small, light and flexible cable to run from the wall plate to the projector. This is what I am talking about: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

BTW, I may be reading your posts wrong but I sense a bit of attitude. I wasn't trying to upset you in anyway. I am just trying to help.

I will ask again, have you removed the cover to see how the HDMI jacks are held in place? Bouda posted some pictures of the insides in this thread. Maybe you can look at those and see if the HDMI jack is visible. Maybe there is a way to reinforce them since they appear to be fairly fragile in stock form.

OK, I understand.. Your wall plate must be installed in the ceiling and then you run the short cable to the PJ...

You may want to actually read my post on that, since the question of whether I opened the case was answered in that post.

Help is exactly what I'm looking for. To avoid the problem. I don't have the problem, but would like to avoid it.

I do installs on the side and have a wholesale account with Monoprice..

Attitude..?? No more so than some and less than many others.

Correct about the wall plate. You need the wall plate from Monoprice and a low voltage outlet box for old construction from Home Depot. Run the main wire to the connector on the back of the wall plate. Wrap it tightly with electrical tape so it won't disconnect in the ceiling/wall. Then run a small HDMI cable from the plate to the projector.

Sorry I missed that in your original post.

I agree some peopleare out right rude on these forums but most people in this thread have been very nice and try to help. I am sorry I can't help you. Maybe someone else here will be able to.

BTW, using the wall plate with a short cable is probably the best way to avoid damaging the HDMI jack.

i'm sure mine is and i'm sure everyone that suffers the issue has a later manufacturer date.

I've got my PRO8100 plugged into a 50' extension cable running across a drop-down grid ceiling and plugged into a regular wall socket. No banding. 200+ hours. Owned it since October 2009.

I believe the ceiling mounted wall plate is a good idea, and possibly could help.. however, when you do a straight run cable, same 22 guage, and curve it slightly before plugging in the HDMI , there is negligible weight placed on the input. The weight of the cable is up in the ceiling. You have maybe 12" max from the ceiling to the PJ input. This is the same type setup most of the retailers that sell units use.

The question, I believe, was HDMI inputs being pushed in. I just can't picture, having seen the inner workings of the unit, how anything other than some units having either a different internal set up than mine or some units having an assembly problem during the manufacturing process.

I'm going to take mine down tonight and double check it.. I'll reinforce if I think I need to.. this kind of problem could bring a unit to a standstill quickly..

I agree that with a ceiling mounted setup the weight of the cable isn't as much of a problem. As long as you angle the cable so it isn't under any pressure once installed then it should be fine.

A shelf mounted setup is a different story if the cable runs down the wall. The weight of the cable is pulling down creating pressure on the jack. With a thick heavy cable it can cause damage.

Being pushed in is usually because the owner pushed too hard and the cable wasn't lined up properly. So basically they pushed on the jack itself forcing it to break away from the outside of the case. I have seen this happen with a few different devices.

How will you reinforce, just curious.

beekermartin +1

Im not sure if anyone here will know the answer to this but i was thinking since i have a good mount right now for my Infocus X1 i was wanting to make a new bottom plate for this mount, just bolt a sheet of metal maybe to the exsisting mount and drill out the proper spacing for my Pro8100.

Any one have any suggestions?

http://www.infocus.com/Support/Acces...CEIL_007B.aspx

Won't know until I get into it .. I've messed with gear for over 40 years, in the past, when I've had an issue like this, Liquid Nails, silicone clear chaulk, small screws, soldering, etc .. just depends what I think when I look at it again... maybe nothing.

Absolutely... although I would add that if you are running a cable from the back of the unit down the exterior of a wall, unsecured, it's always a good idea to attach the cable to the wall if at all possible. Just adding a cheap screw in clamp attached where the cable makes the bend from the PJ to the wall will relieve the stress.

Exactly. It is hard to do that though without cutting a rather large hole in the wall. I thought about using a clamp and securing it to the shelf but the 22 guage cable was not flexible enough. The HDMI wall plate was the perfect solution for me. I've used them in a few installs for friends. For $10.00 I feel it is worth it. I've also used Monoprice's reverse power adaptors for projectors and flat panels. They also work great. http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I use the settings that Art noted in his review of the Pro8100 at ProjectorReviews.com.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/view...erformance.php

They seems to give me excellent results on my screen.

Just called and confirmed that they show them on the way with delivery on 25th/26th. However, they would not allow an order as the final price wasn't in the "Q" (whatever that is). So looks like it won't be long now .

NCDaveD

Excellent if true since I will be exchanging mine which I cannot do until they have stock. I have until Feb 10th I believe.

Btw, for those interested, I did see the vertical banding a few days ago along with my faint horizontal banding (made for an interesting picture). It actually went away while I was watching it but unplugging completely cleared it the next day.

On the other topic, I use a shelf mount with the projector about 1" from the wall, but to avoid trying to bend that heavy gauge HDMI cable (which I did at first), I have a 180 degree HDMI adapter pivot along with a tie-wrap taking the weight off the cable.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/view...erformance.php

Did anyone notice or have issues with Art's "brightest setting"?
It certainly seems brighter, but waaaaay too bluish.
Did anyone modify this brightest settings to yield better color while retaining brightness?

Was this on a new unit?

We know that unplugging the projector for a few hours clears up the banding. Has anyone tried leaving the projector plugged in, but unplugging all the sources?
I'm just trying to see if we can narrow the cause down a little bit.
If mine ever develops the issue, I'll do some testing myself and report back (keep my fingers crossed that it won't )

Yes. I've only had it a week (Nov 2009 date).

Here's that link to the service manual which might show the innards.

http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2ko...ZGMzYTQ0&hl=en

This is what I used in the ceiling for the video inputs since I pulled them all, didn't want to use separate jacks for each one.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

drudge from my calibratrion i noticed that art get the contrast too much 64 and at grayscale test shows 40 also the brightness at his calibration was low 54 it should be 64, color were set for one type of signal , not cover all types also his settings was before the latest update 2.51 so he sets the iris to off and thats make the image dimmer for that he rasied the contrast/brightness numbers, i think he need to recalibrate with new update and iris is set to on.

Art from Projector Reviews,

"That said, the Pro8100 with improved iris should be pretty formidable at $1300. Certainly, I would be curious to how it stacks up against the Mitsubishi HC3800 which lacks a dynamic iris, so doesn't have ultra-high contrast blacks, but otherwise produces a really impressive image. And also the Epson Home Cinema 8100, which like the Viewsonic is a 3LCD. BTW my guess is that black level performance is probably not up to the Epson's but roughly comparable with the Mitsubishi, the Sanyo PLV-Z700, and better than the Optoma HD20. That's all educated guesswork though. -art"


I would also be really curious to see how the Pro8100 stacks up against the Mitsubishi HC3800. Has anyone seen both of these projectors, and if so which do you prefer?

35 brand new PRO8100 coming in TD on the 25.

checksum123 very good i think u got a new 2010 unit after all this waiting

torcida9 the pro8100 compare to the hc5500 , art always compare price at first place , the pro8100 showed better image than the high end pjs(2000$+).

if there is a better image, at any price. i SURE AS HELL would like to see it !!!

My camera is not the best for taking screenshots, but I finally got one that shows the horizontal banding I mentioned. I suspect it's the blue and maybe the green LCD panel since it never shows in any shade of red.

Fabricator there is only 2 pjs that can compete with the pro8100:
1- the sony vpl-vw200 with xinon lamp(1000$) 2000 hour and a price (15000 $)
this one have the same colors of the pro8100 but less sharpness and good black, pure white because of the lamp, btw my friend have one and wen he saw my pj he couldnt belive its for 1500$ so he offered me a 3000$ but i refused:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=947922

2- the infoucs in83 it was 5000$ but it discountinued because infoucs was sold to another company, and this pj is dlp but have rainbow effect , his colors is too accurate, sharper, brighter with 1600 luminus, but as i said rainbow effect very limited placement.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/infocus/in83/index.php


meret it seems that u got to get closer to see those lines, did u try different Hz like 60Hz
or 24Hz and see the difference at those lines also try another source and movie if all the same so wait till tigerdirect have some and replace it.