Originally Posted by 257roberts
Now that I have my exact image size figured out (95") what can I do to dim the image a little. On some movies, sat programming, ect, it seems the image is a little too bright. Sometimes on a scene with snow or a white background, it is kind of uncomfortable. Do I just move the brightness setting down, or will that mess up most of the other values that I copied from Ranger's settings? The brightness does not need to be reduced much, just a little. I guess I would also like to keep one bright user setting, since I don't like to watch sports with my buddies in a completely dark room. They are too clumsy and spill stuff if they can't see! What would I do? Just copy the settings again, but put them in "User2" spot? Now I am not sure where the settings that I am using presently are stored, maybe in the default spot if there is one?
I know it seems counterintuitive, but brightness actually controls you black level, and contrast controls your brightest scenes. You want to bump contrast down a few points, which shouldn't negatively effect the brightness overall, other than saving your retinas in those eye-seering scenes like snow or ice. If you want to save a brighter mode, switch over to vivid for picture mode and make adjustments to the basic settings. Since the calibration is not changing, everything else should remain intact.
Originally Posted by jimjimmyjones85
Hey DR, are the 2200 hour calibration numbers the ones you gave me/us not too long ago?
Most likely. The biggest switch was the calibration to the preset 2.4 gamma point (closer to 2.3 measured), which improves contrast and black level about as far as it can go without sacrificing brightness. The settings can be found here: 2200 hour settings
and I consider them to be my best to date. I likely will get a crack at smithsonga's unit in the near future, so if he has a newer build date (more similar to ranger's unit), I will try and get similar results using the same approach as I did to my 2200 settings and post those up as well. Ranger's settings proved to be better for newer build dates, since I have a first run Pro8100 that varied from the newer builds based on the ADC calibration. The bottom line is that unless you're willing to put a meter on it, or pay someone else too, then you're going to have to go by eye and determine what looks best for your environment.