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Viewsonic Pro8100 1080p Projector - Page 287

post #8581 of 9206
I've been using Dark Rider's most recent settings for a few hours of use now. Overall it looks good. Black level/shadow detail seems better and the image seems to have better overall pop. My only real gripe is with most sources I've watched it is over saturated. I tried turning down the color a bit which helped but it isn't perfect. Skin tones don't look as realistic as I've seen them before.

This is the same issue I've come across anytime I tried to use PCS in the past. I assume that changing the secondary colors only has an effect when PCS is on user mode. Is that correct?
post #8582 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post

I assume that changing the secondary colors only has an effect when PCS is on user mode. Is that correct?

I believe so - in order to use the "3D Colour Management" system, PCS needs to be in user mode.

Then again, in user mode I couldn't get the 3D Colour Management to have an impact on the colours. It was like twiddling a knob that wasn't connected to anything. Then one day it all started to work again
post #8583 of 9206
Want a good painted screen that doesn't take a whole lot of effort? Search Black Widow.
post #8584 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superman2 View Post

One other thing i forgot: I got an an email
from viewsonic about taking part in a webinar regarding their new business prj pro8300. Cant remember the date, (i'll check later) but it was for sometime this week.

Wouldn't it be great if we all respectfully hijacked the webinar question period and flood them with questions on the pro8100's Horizontal banding... and maybe a fix

Im a dreamer :

Missed it!!! Forgot
post #8585 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post

Want a good painted screen that doesn't take a whole lot of effort? Search Black Widow.

Thanks. Just started reading...
post #8586 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post

I've been using Dark Rider's most recent settings for a few hours of use now. Overall it looks good. Black level/shadow detail seems better and the image seems to have better overall pop. My only real gripe is with most sources I've watched it is over saturated. I tried turning down the color a bit which helped but it isn't perfect. Skin tones don't look as realistic as I've seen them before.

This is the same issue I've come across anytime I tried to use PCS in the past. I assume that changing the secondary colors only has an effect when PCS is on user mode. Is that correct?

You can still save and load the gains and offsets (grayscale). However, if PCS is not set to user, you will not be able to set the individual hue and saturation for the primaries and secondaries or the custom gamma, as it defaults to 2.2. Do skin tones look warm or cool? Saturation can be changed in the basic settings and can usually be bumped in either direction several points without inducing color shift. I'd try turning that down to start.
post #8587 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolphinc View Post

I think I am going to give it a shot. God knows I have wasted far more than $160 on other "not so good idea" things. I will let the forum know when it comes in and if it's legit.

Just wondering if you went ahead and ordered this & if so, did you get it yet?

Thanks!
Ed
post #8588 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by old corps View Post


Just wondering if you went ahead and ordered this & if so, did you get it yet?

Thanks!
Ed

Actually, after reading the description I do not believe it is a factory bulb. It lists only Mitsubishi models and not the Pro8100. I know they use the same bulb but if it not listed as a supported projector than I do not think it would be an OEM bulb.
post #8589 of 9206
This is a good deal if you don't have a UPS for your PJ. I got one two years ago and it has come thru several times when I was watching something and lost power. Recommend it to protect your bulb as it allows it to cool down normally.
post #8590 of 9206
Now that my bulb has a about 200 hours on it now, I am pretty happy with the image using "Ranger's" settings. I do however notice a little green push in skin tones. It almost looks like some tan is missing in peoples faces. Not bad but noticeable if you look. I am wondering what would be a logical place to adjust those without completely goofing up all of the other adjustments I made when inputting Rangers settings. I can live with it like it is though. No family or friends have noticed the green push. No banding at all and I don't even shut off power to the unit at night. I am still extremely happy with the projector so far.
post #8591 of 9206
Just replaced my lamp after 2500 hours - which is short since it's been set to Eco mode ... I should have gotten 5000 hours. Anyway, I ordered the aftermarket lamp for $108 and it works great. Same beautiful picture and brightness. Lamp set to Eco mode. Maybe I'll get more than 2500 this time.
post #8592 of 9206
Was that the original bulb?
post #8593 of 9206
Yes. The original bulb only gave me 2500 hours on Eco.

Bought this ...

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/shoppingc...Bname=&recal=1

Works great!
post #8594 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colton View Post

Just replaced my lamp after 2500 hours - which is short since it's been set to Eco mode ... I should have gotten 5000 hours. Anyway, I ordered the aftermarket lamp for $108 and it works great. Same beautiful picture and brightness. Lamp set to Eco mode. Maybe I'll get more than 2500 this time.

I've got over 3000 on my original lamp .. did yours pop or just get too dim to use .. ??
post #8595 of 9206
It just stopped working. Projector LED showed blinking red light. Manual says "replace lamp". The picture was dimming several times during a movie, so I guess that's a sign that the lamp life is coming to an end.
post #8596 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colton View Post

It just stopped working. Projector LED showed blinking red light. Manual says "replace lamp".

So it blew out .. ?? I had that blinking red light and replace lamp warning a couple times, but a reset made it work again ..
post #8597 of 9206
I don't think it blew out. It didn't pop or anything. Just tried to turn on projector and got the red flashing LED. Figured the lamp reached its lifespan.

How do you reset when you can't see a picture?
post #8598 of 9206
I unplugged it and held the power button down for about 30 seconds .. same thing you would do with a PC ..
post #8599 of 9206
I'm up to about 2700 hours on my original, and haven't had any of the blinking light errors, but I may pick up one of the cheap lamps, if you have a good experience with it. Definitely keep us posted!
post #8600 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

Now that my bulb has a about 200 hours on it now, I am pretty happy with the image using "Ranger's" settings. I do however notice a little green push in skin tones. It almost looks like some tan is missing in peoples faces. Not bad but noticeable if you look. I am wondering what would be a logical place to adjust those without completely goofing up all of the other adjustments I made when inputting Rangers settings. I can live with it like it is though. No family or friends have noticed the green push. No banding at all and I don't even shut off power to the unit at night. I am still extremely happy with the projector so far.

Anyone want to suggest settings to start with?
post #8601 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

Anyone want to suggest settings to start with?

If it's a level/balance issue with the gains/offsets, it will also be apparent in your grayscale. I'd recommend putting up some IRE windowed patterns and looking for signs of it. If it's in the lower IREs (darker end of the gray scale), you need to lower the green offset slowly until it disappears. If it's in the upper IREs (closer to white), you will to need to lower the green gain until it disappears. As you take out green, it's going to add both red and blue, so make changes in small increments. The good news is that as red and blue come up, they do so pretty evenly on our pj (not always the case).

If you don't detect any signs of green in the grayscale, but you're still seeing it in skin tones, it's likely a hue/saturation or luminance issue, which you can isolate to green for at least hue and saturation in the PCS menu. There are no separate controls for individual color luminance, but you can see improvements by balancing hue and saturation.
post #8602 of 9206
Okay, I guess that will give me a place to start, but I'm not sure on my calibration disks what the "IRE" patterns are? I also have three plastic lenses that you look through, they are red green and blue I think.
post #8603 of 9206
Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

Okay, I guess that will give me a place to start, but I'm not sure on my calibration disks what the "IRE" patterns are? I also have three plastic lenses that you look through, they are red green and blue I think.

The IRE patterns are just grayscale patterns ranging from 0-100 (0 = Black and 100 = White). I believe the lenses are to fine tune hue for your secondaries. I used a colorimeter, so I've never tried the lenses before, but one of my TVs can apply a blue filter, which has basically the same effect.
post #8604 of 9206
What do IRE's look like? a bunch of grey bars or is it a pattern with a grid type of thing? i have the AVIA disk and one more that I downloaded and burned to a blue ray. Thanks for helping me.
post #8605 of 9206
Windowed or Full Screen IRE patterns from 0-100 in increments of 10 will work. A 0 IRE full screen pattern would basically be a solid black screen. A 100 IRE full screen pattern would be solid white. Everything in between would be a varying degree of gray, but would be a solid shade of gray.
post #8606 of 9206
Okay, I will try that tonight. Just worried I may goof up other settings, but maybe I can write down anything I change.
post #8607 of 9206
DR, where do I adjust the gain and offset? Man, the projector has 20 places to adjust the color, I just get confused looking for a specific place to do the adjusting. Also if no green is present in the grayscale and I need to adjust luminance or hue/saturation, where are those adjustments? If you can, please post where I can find them with just some instructions, like Menu>Picture>Basic or the best way to access your suggested places to start adjusting. Thanks for helping me.
post #8608 of 9206
Indeed, the menus are confusing to say the least! The gains and offsets for each primary color are under the Memory Settings -> Custom
Color Temperature submenu, and hue/saturation for both primaries and secondaries is under the PCS Menu -> 3D Color Management.
post #8609 of 9206
Just one more question! what are primary's and secondary's? Red, Green and Blue primary? yellow, pink secondary?
post #8610 of 9206
Red, Green and Blue are the Primaries, and Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow are the Secondaries.
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