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The Official Onkyo TX-SR705 Thread (FAQ in 1st Post) - Page 8

post #211 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by woots View Post

lol... dude.. i just figured I would rewrite the secret keys section of the FAQ to make it clear for everyone else. Then I figured let me see if I can discover new hidden commands.

WHAT A MISTAKE!

I accidently found one that set my whole receiver back to the factory defualt (wiped my Audyessey settings and label names and hdmi input settings) Sucks.. guess i will be spending the rest of the night fixing this.

I did discover a few new hidden commands though that are mysterious.. for the vets of this board.. please read those new commands i posted and see if you can figure out what they do.

There are a few more crazy secret displays too... like on each of the firmware display pages, you can actually press the DISPLAY button again to cycle through "additional pages" of info to do with that firmware. The different firmwares have different numbers of extra pages of info. They are all codes/numbers that change when the receiver is locking onto audio signals and you can see them change when you change listening mode presets etc. I also cant figure out a way to make it stop displaying these, appart from turning the receiver OFF. Note - i cant take credit for this, as they are from a post made by "xxxxx" to do with the 805 model.

It also seems on the 805 model, the temperaure display screen also shows a Fan :L/M/H (low med high) to tell you what the internal fan/s are doing, however with our 705 it just seems to show the temperature in Fahrenheit and Celsius, with no fan speed info. This may be because the 805 has a bigger display and can fit more info in... it'd be nice if there was a way for us to show fan info... perhaps by pressing DISPLAY while showing TEMP info... cant remember if i tried that (it seems obvious though, so i probably did)
post #212 of 8851
when people say they get hum or hiss problems when they have "no input" do they mean when a device is connected but not outputting audio (like in a menu on cable box or something) or do they actually mean if say switching to AUX when nothing is plugged into the AUX inputs.

If its the latter i fail to see how this is an issue at all?! As woots said, who the hell changes to an unused input and then cranks the volume up to +6!

If its hum or buzz that is audible in quiet scenes or when at a menu etc, then i agree this would be annoying! Thankfully mine does not have any hiss or hum even with volume cranked to MAX and my ear pressed against the speakers. As i mentioned I have Equaliser turned OFF and all my sources use component video (through the AVR) and optical/digital coax audio connections. When i get home i will see if having Audyssey turned on causes any issues
post #213 of 8851
Thread Starter 
Wow this is the 1st time I have been without Audyessey since ... well its the 1st time since i set it up day one.

I am kinda liking this audio without Audy... the bass wow.
post #214 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by woots View Post

Wow this is the 1st time I have been without Audyessey since ... well its the 1st time since i set it up day one.

I am kinda liking this audio without Audy... the bass wow.

Yes, I find that for listening to music (particularly mp3s which already sound more compressed and limited than normal CDs) i like to have Audyssey off as it is more phat/meaty/grunty (dont you just love my technical terms). Listening to movies i do like what Audyssey does but half the time i forget to turn it back on before watching a movie, and the GF doesnt like it when i mess around with the audio presets while we are watching hehe... So usually i just leave it off!
post #215 of 8851
Thanks for the info. Last week I bought a Toshiba HD-A2 and just got the HDMI cables hooked up - HDMI to 705 passing through HDMI to TV. But I hadn't yet played a CD. You're right. Audio doesn't work properly unless HDMI Monitor=OFF or TV is on.

I wonder if there's any way to automate turning HDMI Monitor=OFF with a Harmony remote? Probably easier to leave TV on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgribbles View Post

Thanks for the input. My example of an HD DVD and CD was with a Toshiba XA2, HD DVD and CD playing. With HDMI Monitor=OFF the TV is out of the loop and the player will play audio fine over HDMI wit the TV off. I suspect this will be the case for most players, but, as you point out, there can always be the exception. Its really not supposed to be this hard!!
post #216 of 8851
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johni View Post

Woots, thanks. That worked. Is 113F too hot after running for 6-7 hours?



Quote:
Originally Posted by johni
I've tried checking temperature per Woots's instructions in FAQ to no avail. I can't get the firmware menus either. Suggestions?

I dont think thats hot by the way Johni.. I personally got a fan cuase i was in that 120-125 range.. and honestly.. thats fine too. I just got a fan for good measure 20 bucks or so and I never have to worry about heat again.

If 113 is worst you see after 7 hours of normal volume playback.. its not bad at all. You were playing it at normal volume levels for those 7 hours right? (not just leaving it turned on idle)
post #217 of 8851
Thread Starter 
I went back to Audy again poop for bass... way too loud center channel... way too quiet surrounds... its really not to my liking.. I think .. I don't like Audy anymore.

I mean I gotta say the whole submarine ping noise distance tracking thing; The way its listening for reflected back signals off other walls... etc....Thats very very impressive. But, it always seems to get everything else.. not quite right though.. the worst of which is the bass.

I guess I will go back tweak all my settings that the Audy messed up like I did last time. I figured I'd give the fresh Audy settings a try again b4 I messed with things.
post #218 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by woots View Post

I went back to Audy again poop for bass... way too loud center channel... way too quiet surrounds... its really not to my liking.. I think .. I don't like Audy anymore.

I mean I gotta say the whole submarine ping noise distance tracking thing; The way its listening for reflected back signals off other walls... etc....Thats very very impressive. But, it always seems to get everything else.. not quite right though.. the worst of which is the bass.

I guess I will go back tweak all my settings that the Audy messed up like I did last time. I figured I'd give the fresh Audy settings a try again b4 I messed with things.

Is the bass muddy or just not loud enough for your tastes? I ran into that when I first EQ'd my subwoofer for flat response (before I had the 705). Took a while to get used to it, because there didn't seem to be as much bass with music. But then I started noticing that I still had the low end there, but I could make out individual notes much easier. Since running Audyssey, I'm not using my EQ because the results track so closely to what I had grown accustomed to having when EQ'd for flat in-room response. A lot of people don't care for flat response though, so maybe that's what it is.

If not, I'd be interested in seeing your room setup. There has to be some reason it's behaving that way. Seems like the usual complaint is that the center isn't loud enough, not the other way around.
post #219 of 8851
I just noticed that 6ave.com on Amazon is offering 705 for $574.30 shipped and Amazon is offering for $584.73 shipped. WholesaleAV is offering for 574.39shipped. I am not sure how long these prices will last but is a kind of good sign for those who are planning to buy this receiver.

Jus thought this info might be useful for people looking to buy this receiver.
post #220 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow420 View Post

Regarding your cable box what you are finding is that HDCP (high definition content protection) is not supported on its DVI output. Basically ALL devices in the chain must support HDCP in order for protected content to play. These are measures put in place by "the industry" (recording studios etc) to guarantee that we cant take this nice high def output and copy/pirate it. Given that the DVI to HDMI cable works OK going directly to the TV, in this case one assumes that it is the 705 that is spitting the dummy saying you dont have a HDCP compliant device, and thus fulfilling its contrract to not transfer the video since a fully compliant HDCP chain cannot be established.

I believe there may be a device that can "add" HDCP compliancy to a DVI input (something like Digital Storm) however as others in this thread have said, the easier (and better) option is to try and hit your cable company up for a set top box that supports HDMI, then you shouldnt have any of these worries

Secondly, your comments about "fixing" your sub hum by changing its output mode from PCM to bitstream concern me... A quick google on your panasonic BD10A player confirms that this player DOES NOT support sending the bitstream (ie undecoded) TrueHD or DTS-MA tracks on to the onkyo for it to decode. I am concerned that in changing this setting from PCM to bitstream you may actually be downgrading the sound you are getting, to just the regular Dolby Digital, or DTS "core" streams. You can check what the onkyo is receiving by pressing the display button multiple times... the screen will cycle between what signal is being received, and what listening mode it is applying (eg receiving DD 5.1, and applying the Dolby D listening mode, or receiving fs: 48KHz, and applying DD PLIIx Music etc). If your player is outputting the full TrueHD or DTS-MA sound tracks in bitstream as you believe, then the onkyo should have the TrueHD light illuminated, and the display should indicate it is receiving TrueHD. I dont believe this is the case, and think that you have to have your panasonic player set to PCM in order to enjoy these soundtracks in their full capability (however this then gives you a sub hum which is unfortunate, but perhaps the player has some audio settings that might be able to be tweaked that help with that)

Thanks Scarecrow.
You were right about the BD10A Bitstream. The bitstream signal I was getting was regular DTS, not DTS HD. This is what I get for troubleshooting at 2 a.m. I will update my earlier posting accordingly.

I would also like to mention that my sub hum has largely disappeared. I'm not sure exacty what cured it, but I have re-EQ'd and made other adjustments since my original posting. Even so, my BD10A is still under warranty, so I may switch it out for the BMP-BD30 sometime this week. The BD30 will output both the Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio formats via bitstream, and it's cheaper. Any comments would be greatly appreciated here.

Can you explain why coax audio comes in to the 705 as PCM while HDMI audio comes in to the 705 as PCM MULTICH, given the same BD source? Each also has a completely different set of sound fields available. It was my understanding that there was no difference between an HDMI audio signal and a COAX audio signal as they were both digital signals.
post #221 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDinCO View Post

Can you explain why coax audio comes in to the 705 as PCM while HDMI audio comes in to the 705 as PCM MULTICH, given the same BD source? Each also has a completely different set of sound fields available. It was my understanding that there was no difference between an HDMI audio signal and a COAX audio signal as they were both digital signals.

Sure can!

optical and coax digital connections only have enough bandwidth to transfer 2.1 channels of uncompressed audio (however they do have the required bandwidth to send the compressed (ie undecoded) DD or DTS signal as they have been traditionally used for with regular DVD players etc since the advent of DD and DTS decoding AVRs).

HDMI has way more bandwidth and has enough necessary to send a full 7.1 channels in uncompressed format. Id like to know how much bandwidth an undecoded (but still lossless) bitstream of TrueHD or DTS-MA track takes up... the spec demands HDMI 1.3 to do this but i wonder if that is bandwidth/size related or not (ie im wondering if it is possible bandwidth wise, for these bitstreams to be transported by optical/coax, despite the fact that no device will ever support it)
post #222 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by narayanarao123 View Post

I just noticed that 6ave.com on Amazon is offering 705 for $574.30 shipped and Amazon is offering for $584.73 shipped. WholesaleAV is offering for 574.39shipped. I am not sure how long these prices will last but is a kind of good sign for those who are planning to buy this receiver.

Jus thought this info might be useful for people looking to buy this receiver.

That is useful, thanks.
post #223 of 8851
Love my 705 but I have a question. My listening volume is usually between -10 and -5 from reference. Is this hurting the receiver at this volume? The 705 has never clipped or shut down and I will buy a fan this week just for piece of mind(no heat problems yet) but was considering an Emotiva LPA-1 amp if this volume is putting to much strain on the receiver. Any thoughts? At what volume are you 705 owners listing at?
post #224 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhopkins View Post

Love my 705 but I have a question. My listening volume is usually between -10 and -5 from reference. Is this hurting the receiver at this volume? The 705 has never clipped or shut down and I will buy a fan this week just for piece of mind(no heat problems yet) but was considering an Emotiva LPA-1 amp if this volume is putting to much strain on the receiver. Any thoughts? At what volume are you 705 owners listing at?

I usually listen at between -15 and -9 depending on the movie. In my opinion, if the receiver will do it then it should not hurt it.
post #225 of 8851
Bah, the adjustable voltage A/C adapter I had cut the end off to connect to my panaflo fan is too large to fit into the switched outlet on the 705... Which a/c adapter do you guys use? I thought the switchable voltage one would be cool so I could get the lowest noise but still cool. (plus it was free as I found it in a drawer) Any suggestions?
post #226 of 8851
I have found that running the full 8 settings in Audyssey does improve the sound. The first time I ran Audyssey I used the 4 settings and it sounded pretty bad, then I went to 6 setting and there was a big jump in the sound quality. Then last week I decided to rerun Audyssey and went with the full 8 settings and I swear it sounds better. I have found that moving the angle of the speakers can greatly change the Audyssey sound and so can the microphone placements, so you may want to do some experimentation.
post #227 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by narayanarao123 View Post

Good question. I am using the Onkyo supplied wires for 6 speakers (fronts, center, center surrounds and surround back right) and for 7th (surround back left) I am using 16 AWG wire. Sub is connected via coax.

I have no idea if it would help with your hiss and its a good chance it would make no difference, but if you have long speaker wire runs over 50' I would use 14g. When I redid my setup I bought a spool of 14g from Monoprice and ran 14g to all my speakers.
post #228 of 8851
Yes. Normal volume levels. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by woots View Post

I dont think thats hot by the way Johni.. I personally got a fan cuase i was in that 120-125 range.. and honestly.. thats fine too. I just got a fan for good measure 20 bucks or so and I never have to worry about heat again.

If 113 is worst you see after 7 hours of normal volume playback.. its not bad at all. You were playing it at normal volume levels for those 7 hours right? (not just leaving it turned on idle)
post #229 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

AUDYSSEY\\SETUP FAQ:




18. If the LFE crossover is at 80 and my speakers are crossed over higher than that, am I losing sound between them?

The LFE crossover only affects the low frequency effects channel (the .1) of a 5.1/6.1/7.1 soundtrack, not overall response from redirected bass. The 705 defaults to the THX LFE cutoff of 80Hz and Audyssey doesn't adjust that setting. However, the LFE channel by its very nature is brickwall filtered during encoding at 120Hz. If you want to accurately reproduce the entire LFE channel, set LFE cutoff to 120Hz. However, few sound mixes have audio above 80Hz in the LFE channel, which is why THX recommends the 80Hz cutoff. Also, because the LFE channel receives a +10dB boost during decoding, the THX recommended 80Hz cutoff is there to reduce the chance of humming/noise above 80Hz from the LFE channel. Chances are that you will not notice a significant difference, if any, by changing LFE cutoff from its default of 80Hz, but doing so has no effect on the bass redirected from the other channels.

I'm not sure I understand this. If the subs crossover is set at 80HZ, and the mains (even though their full size speakers - but they don't reproduce bass very well) are set at 150HZ it seems as something is missing at least on paper?

If the sub doesn't see anything from the LFE until its 80Hz or below and the mains drop off at 150Hz, what is happening to the missing frequency?

If I adjust the sub to 120HZ, and if I understand what was said above, no additonal informaiton will be sent to the sub. Also if I were to lower the frequency of the mains, what good would that do if they can't reproduce below 150Hz anyways? Or does Audyssey set it that way for some other reason and the mains can reproduce sound below 150Hz?
post #230 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by dropzone7 View Post

I usually listen at between -15 and -9 depending on the movie. In my opinion, if the receiver will do it then it should not hurt it.

I am in low -30's most of the time, rarely high -20's. ran audessy and have kef 2005 speakers, dont know and cant imagine how people are running so loud at -9?? trying to understand only here, is it bcos the room is too big or does it depends on speakers also??
post #231 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewM View Post

I'm not sure I understand this. If the subs crossover is set at 80HZ, and the mains (even though their full size speakers - but they don't reproduce bass very well) are set at 150HZ it seems as something is missing at least on paper?

If the sub doesn't see anything from the LFE until its 80Hz or below and the mains drop off at 150Hz, what is happening to the missing frequency?

If I adjust the sub to 120HZ, and if I understand what was said above, no additonal informaiton will be sent to the sub. Also if I were to lower the frequency of the mains, what good would that do if they can't reproduce below 150Hz anyways? Or does Audyssey set it that way for some other reason and the mains can reproduce sound below 150Hz?

First, the crossover on your subwoofer's amp itself should be turned all the way up.

Second, there's a difference between redirected bass and LFE. The LFE channel is the .1 in 5.1/6.1/7.1, and is a seperate channel that only carries 1/10th of full bandwidth sound (20-120Hz, though many soundtracks have audio below 20Hz as well) for low frequency effects. When you change the LFE cutoff on the receiver, you're NOT changing the redirected bass from the other channels. That's what their crossover settings are for.

So if, in your example, you set LFE cutoff to 80Hz and the 7 speakers to 150Hz, you get the following:
1) The receiver begins to send bass from the 7 channels to the subwoofer at slightly over 150Hz, such that at 150Hz, the subwoofer and speaker is producing equal amounts of the bass.
2) The LFE channel is also sent to the subwoofer, but is brickwall filtered at 80Hz.

You're still getting everything from 80-150Hz from the other 7 channels being sent to the subwoofer. But the LFE channel in a 5.1/6.1/7.1 bitstream is being truncated at 80Hz. Because the LFE channel only carries up to 120Hz anyway, few mixes put anything in the 80-120Hz region of that channel anyway, so you're likely not losing much audio. Regardless, you can set LFE cutoff to whatever you want and it doesn't affect the redirected bass from the other channels at all.

Now, if you set the crossover on the subwoofer itself to 80Hz, yes you are truncating 80-150Hz from your other speakers. You should set your subwoofer's crossover all the way to its maximum to ensure that a) you aren't cutting off redirected bass from the other speakers, and b) you aren't inducing delay from the crossover circuitry that could alter phase/distance settings.

However, due to the hum issue, some have found that dialing the sub crossover (not the LFE cutoff on the receiver) down to just above where their speakers are crossed over to help reduce hum without cutting off any redirected bass. In other words, if you have all channels set to 80Hz on the receiver, you can get away with setting the crossover to 90-100Hz on your sub to reduce any humming above that. The only caveat is that you'll have to re-run Audyssey to detect its acoustic distance, since the crossover may alter the distance/delay setting.

Audyssey doesn't detect speaker capabilities very well, so look up the specs of your speakers and set the crossovers for them yourself after running Audyssey. If, however, your speakers are spec'd for 150Hz and that's what Audyssey comes up with, leave it. The default 80Hz LFE cutoff won't affect that at all.

(Wow, I hope I explained that well enough.)
post #232 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by csrini1 View Post

I am in low -30's most of the time, rarely high -20's. ran audessy and have kef 2005 speakers, dont know and cant imagine how people are running so loud at -9?? trying to understand only here, is it bcos the room is too big or does it depends on speakers also??

The level it sets the channel trims to depends on room acoustics and speaker sensitivity (i.e. what dB level it can produce with 1 watt - should be listed in your speaker's specs). However, the relative scale strives to give us a standard by which -9dB in my room should equal the same in your room. If you haven't re-checked your channels with a SPL meter, however, Audyssey tends to set channel trims 2-3dB down from reference level, so -9dB would likely be -11 or -12 from reference.

The smaller the room, the easier it is for the receiver's amp to push that level (and the lower the channel trims will end up). If you moved the same system to a larger room and re-ran Audyssey, it would bump channel trims up to compensate for the larger space so that you'd reach the same level with the same relative setting in that room.
post #233 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

I just want to correct one notion from the original FAQ. In number 11 of the owner FAQ, it says:
"The 705 outputs 100watts per channel. Ideally you should be using speakers with a 100 watt maximum capacity."

I want to make it clear that it isn't that simple. The 705 is rated to drive 100w continuous power to 2 channels with an 8 ohm load. The reality is that transients may push a single channel (most likely your fronts or center, almost never your surrounds) beyond that, since the amp section can essentially provide a burst of power over and above the rated power without clipping or distortion.

I thought that the 705 is rated at 100W minimum continuous power to 2 chanels with an 8 ohm load for every two speakers. IE: fronts get 100w per channel. Surrounds get 100w per channel, Surround Backs get 100w per channel. Center gets 100w.

I'm a little confused. Is it rated 100w per channel all channels driven or 2 channels driven? I guess one benefit of the SR805 is the modal amps.
post #234 of 8851
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fighting Fish View Post

I thought that the 705 is rated at 100W minimum continuous power to 2 chanels with an 8 ohm load for every two speakers. IE: fronts get 100w per channel. Surrounds get 100w per channel, Surround Backs get 100w per channel. Center gets 100w.

I'm a little confused. Is it rated 100w per channel all channels driven or 2 channels driven? I guess one benefit of the SR805 is the modal amps.

http://www.onkyousa.com/model.cfm?m=...class=Receiver

specs on the 705... I think each surround section has a separate 2 channel getting 100w+100w (modal) like your saying, cause they list each surround section on its own. I don't think "2 channel driven" means only just the front 2 channels, I think they are speaking 2 channels for each section.


Front L/R
100 W + 100 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz–20 kHz,
0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC)

Center
100 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz–20 kHz, 0.08%,
2 channels driven, FTC)

Surround L/R
100 W + 100 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz–20 kHz,
0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC)

Surround Back L/R
100 W + 100 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz–20 kHz,
0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC)

and this is dynamic power

Dynamic Power
240 W (3 ohms, 1 ch)
210 W (4 ohms, 1 ch)
120 W (8 ohms, 1 ch)

=======
I assumed they are speaking continuous RMS on this figures above for each section (not talking about dynamic of course) ... any confirmation on that?

The dynamic rating they only list 1 channel.. I am not sure if they are saying if ran in 1 channel only thats what the dynamic power is capable of.. or if they are saying you can only get those peaks if you run 1 channel (which would mean center channel only if thats true)... if thats also the case i'd like to see what the 2ch dynamic power is.

I'd like to see a maintenance blueprint of this model. (don't feel like taking apart my receiver to see how things are laid out.) However, would be good to get some clarification on this topic. I am curious now. Anyone have better amp specs on this 705 other then the one on their site? (something a bit more descriptive)
post #235 of 8851
I just realized that places like Gefen are selling 3x1 HDMI 1.3 switches for $300. I know you can some cheaper at places like monoprice, but not sure if they are certified HDMI 1.3. Anyway the point is it is amazing to think that in theory half the cost of this receiver goes to the HDMI switching, or the fact you are saving that much extra having the switching built in. Definitely a plus of these new receivers for me.
post #236 of 8851
Circuit City had the 805 for $699 this morning. I used a 10% off coupon and ordered it for $629 plus tax. That's about what I paid for my 705, so I figured I should jump on the deal. I'm going to test the 805 against my 705 and return whichever one I don't like the best. Does anyone think there is any reason to keep the 705 over the 805 if they're both the same price? I know the 705 has a smaller and lighter footprint, but other than that is there any little thing that the 705 does better that I might miss with the 805?
post #237 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow420 View Post

when people say they get hum or hiss problems when they have "no input" do they mean when a device is connected but not outputting audio (like in a menu on cable box or something) or do they actually mean if say switching to AUX when nothing is plugged into the AUX inputs.

If its the latter i fail to see how this is an issue at all?! As woots said, who the hell changes to an unused input and then cranks the volume up to +6!

If its hum or buzz that is audible in quiet scenes or when at a menu etc, then i agree this would be annoying! Thankfully mine does not have any hiss or hum even with volume cranked to MAX and my ear pressed against the speakers. As i mentioned I have Equaliser turned OFF and all my sources use component video (through the AVR) and optical/digital coax audio connections. When i get home i will see if having Audyssey turned on causes any issues

I can only speak for myself but the hum/hiss is always there but when you pause a movie it stands out in stark relief from what should be dead silence. The worst offender is my HDA1 or HDA2 player as TrueHD seems to be mixed lower so you tend to turn up the volume more. I have cranked my Intellivolume up to +12db and this also helps avoid the issue somewhat.

This weekend I changed from the HDMI in to be optical on the HDA2 in and the hiss is quite a bit less. Of course I loose the TrueHD if I use the optical
I have to get to -5 before I can hear anything. The Audyssey/Equaliser fix didn't do anything to help.


-Craig
post #238 of 8851
Quote:


I used a 10% off coupon and ordered it for $629 plus tax.

Where did you get the 10% coupon? I don't see it on the CC website.
post #239 of 8851
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Circuit City had the 805 for $699 this morning. I used a 10% off coupon and ordered it for $629 plus tax. That's about what I paid for my 705, so I figured I should jump on the deal. I'm going to test the 805 against my 705 and return whichever one I don't like the best. Does anyone think there is any reason to keep the 705 over the 805 if they're both the same price? I know the 705 has a smaller and lighter footprint, but other than that is there any little thing that the 705 does better that I might miss with the 805?

The only real reason is the flammability of those 805's .. several users in 805 thread had theirs catch fire (real fire)....after a few weeks of operation.. they even had room above and around their receivers. It doesn't look like every user is effected but its in realm of possibilities. That fact alone kept me away from the 805 since day one. I don't need my place burning down.

Outside of that one fact... the 805 is superior to the 705 in every way accept for power consumption at 9.5 amp load thats 1/2 a normal household circuit break load..combined with tv and sub on same line thats close to 20amps... not room for much else... there is also a rule to keep a circuit breaker at 20% elbow room. Just keep that in mind when you plug in that amp.

Also note you wont get away from some of the things that plague 705 like lip sync and not being able to upscale to 1080p in those regards they are the same. It really comes down to much better improved audio section.
post #240 of 8851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

2) The LFE channel is also sent to the subwoofer, but is brickwall filtered at 80Hz.

Are you sure about that? I thought when you set the LPF to 80 Hz, it slowly tapered off to 120 Hz which is the upper limit of the LFE channel.

I would think a brickwall filter at 80 Hz would sound pretty harsh.
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