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The Tupalev Family Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 5

post #121 of 140
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

Mark, room looks great! I'm working on a similar layout, and your finished product is confirmation that the layout works for me.

tony

Thanks Tony - I look forward to your finished product. Let me know if I can help with anything ...
post #122 of 140
Thread Starter 
Here you go Bill - got two pics for you. The top pick is in very low light, and the bottom is with high ambient light:



(Don't be alarmed that's not a ghost in the above frame - just an uninvited visitor )




As you might notice, with more ambient light the more visible the unused screen is. For my personal taste, I find it more than acceptable. Hope this helps, good luck in your decision ...
post #123 of 140
Tupalev, thank you so very much for the excellent pictures. Exactly what I wanted to see. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to post them. Both the pictures and your comment about not needing masks in your setup will for sure help me make a better decision about my Carada purchase.

Exciting game too (albeit I am watching it on a 13" CRT TV right now ).

Bill
post #124 of 140
Looks great man. Could you give some info on the screen, like height, width and throw distance. I'm looking to get the same pj and your pics look awesome. What size 16:9 picture do you get? Thanks.
post #125 of 140
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragged View Post

Looks great man. Could you give some info on the screen, like height, width and throw distance. I'm looking to get the same pj and your pics look awesome. What size 16:9 picture do you get? Thanks.

Thanks Ragged. I opted for the 128" diagonally wide 2:35:1 ratio screen (not 16:9) from Carada (Brilliant White with 1.4 gain), you can find it on their site here.

As noted on Carada's site, the physical viewing surface dimensions are 117.8 inches wide by 50.1 inches high and the outside frame dimensions are 124.5 inches wide by 56.8 inches high.

For the projector, my throw distance is approximately 13' 6". This distance (and what I would recommend) places the projector at the minimum throw range for a 2:35:1 ratio 128" screen (according to Panasonic's manual) - by doing this, you maximize the quality (i.e. brightness/clarity) of your 2:35:1 picture.

Several reasons factored in the decision to go 2:35:1 as opposed to the common 16:9 formatted screen. 1) Since my HT design involved speaker equipment sitting on the front stage I couldn't accommodate a taller screen as it would've hung way too high for viewing. 2) Once I made the decision to go with Panasonic's PTAE3000 and it's convenient memory lens settings, switching between movies in 2:35:1 and high-def TV in 16:9 would be (and is!) a breeze. 3) Finally, after having some sorta reality check, I asked myself am I creating a home theater for TV or for watching films? The choice was obvious, films of course - and having films presented on a 2:35:1 ratio screen just makes the cinematic experience that much richer, at least for me.

Make sure to also check this page as they decently summarize the five standard aspect ratios Carada offers. Hope this helps.

Forgive the extended response, I get a lot of PM's asking why I opted 2:35:1 over 16:9 so I figured I'd post my thoughts on it! Good luck.
post #126 of 140
Not at all. Thank you very much for the info!!
post #127 of 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tupalev View Post

Thanks Ragged. I opted for the 128" diagonally wide 2:35:1 ratio screen (not 16:9) from Carada (Brilliant White with 1.4 gain), you can find it on their site here.

As noted on Carada's site, the physical viewing surface dimensions are 117.8 inches wide by 50.1 inches high and the outside frame dimensions are 124.5 inches wide by 56.8 inches high.

For the projector, my throw distance is approximately 13' 6". This distance (and what I would recommend) places the projector at the minimum throw range for a 2:35:1 ratio 128" screen (according to Panasonic's manual) - by doing this, you maximize the quality (i.e. brightness/clarity) of your 2:35:1 picture.

Several reasons factored in the decision to go 2:35:1 as opposed to the common 16:9 formatted screen. 1) Since my HT design involved speaker equipment sitting on the front stage I couldn't accommodate a taller screen as it would've hung way too high for viewing. 2) Once I made the decision to go with Panasonic's PTAE3000 and it's convenient memory lens settings, switching between movies in 2:35:1 and high-def TV in 16:9 would be (and is!) a breeze. 3) Finally, after having some sorta reality check, I asked myself am I creating a home theater for TV or for watching films? The choice was obvious, films of course - and having films presented on a 2:35:1 ratio screen just makes the cinematic experience that much richer, at least for me.

Make sure to also check this page as they decently summarize the five standard aspect ratios Carada offers. Hope this helps.

Forgive the extended response, I get a lot of PM's asking why I opted 2:35:1 over 16:9 so I figured I'd post my thoughts on it! Good luck.

I also went with a 128" Carada BW.
Installing it tomorrow.
I was just taking some measurements a few minutes ago.

Just to clarify, the 128" diagonal can be in any aspect ratio you wish.
I went with 2.40:1, but you can get 2.39, 2.37, 2.35:1, etc.
Not trying to nitpick. Just pointing out that there are slight differences.

I'll squawk up again that Carada has great customer service.

Mike
post #128 of 140
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post

I also went with a 128" Carada BW.

I'll squawk up again that Carada has great customer service.

Mike

Indeed they do, Mike. They really helped steer me into what would work best in my situation. Good luck with the install, should be a relative breeze ....
post #129 of 140
I'll be copying your rope light in the channel method for my riser lip (2" lip).

Sorry if I missed it in your thread, what type of channel and where did you get it?
Nice job.
Thx,
Mike



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tupalev View Post

Also installed the rope lights for the riser.

Some recent photos:

Some pics of the rope light and the tracks I'm putting them in. The company I bought them sold the tracks in black color which was ideal for my application:



Here's a closeup of the track installed under the riser lip. Instead of using adhesive tape, I used drywall screws and drove them into the well of the track.



And the finished result:



Glad I decided to use tracks with the rope lights, gives it a nice, clean edge look.
post #130 of 140
Thread Starter 
Thanks Mike. I got the tracks and rope lighting from noveltylights.com They sell them in either black or clear, check them out here.

Good luck, let me know how it goes.

- Mark
post #131 of 140
I used a track for my rope lighting around my deck. It DEFINIETLY gives a straighter, tighter and better looking result than trying to do it by hand.

Nice job.
post #132 of 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

I used a track for my rope lighting around my deck. It DEFINIETLY gives a straighter, tighter and better looking result than trying to do it by hand.

Nice job.

Tom and Mark;
for your HT when in use I assume you turn off the rope lights or have them very dimmed?

I finally added my rope lights to the riser lip, and with them dimmed quite a bit still reduced the screen contrast on the lower portion too much for me.
I was using the rope as stair step lights, ended up putting painters tape on the screen facing face which helped eliminate the shine onto the screen but still left it shining down.

Looks sorts "ghetto" if you stare at it, I'd like to put something else there to block the light from shining onto the screen but still allow it to go down.
(gives guests confidence while watching HT to enter/leave the area)

Was wondering if you left the rope lights on what solution you devised.





btw, I went el-cheapo Home Depot rope lights/opaque tracks, a 12' section + one 2' section.
Probably paid $20-ish total.
post #133 of 140
Thread Starter 
Good points Mike, as I had run into this issue with my riser rope lights. On maximum brightness, my rope lights were way too bright as they were causing too much light to spill on the screen.

I ended up setting my dimmer to the minimal brightness so patrons could still be aware of the riser step, yet not have any light reflection on the screen. It took a bit of fudging around with my Insteon dimmer but I think I found the right balance. Not sure you need tape, I think the key is finding the right amount of brightness on your dimmer switch. Hopefully you have a dimmer that retains a memory setting, if not it's certainly a worthy investment ....
post #134 of 140
A I said, I used mine to line under the top rail of my deck. I built a little extension cord/dimmer box. I bought a pigtail cord (molded 3-prong plug with bare ends) and double gang metal electric box. I bought a cheap lutron dimmer for lights (600w) and wired the cord to the dimmer and then the dimmer to the outlet. I plug the lights into the outlet and dim them that way. Makes it very portable and I can take it in over the winter and when it's REALLY raining I just store it in the "equipment cabinet" on the the deck. As noted in several other threads, the lights do not go out all the way when dimmed this way, but if I forget to turn them off during the movie, it doesn't really affect anything since we're outside anyway.

It's still pretty cool when AFTER the movie I just reach down and turn them on and then slowly brighten them.

Plan is to use Insteon once I get some inside the theater and dim them thath way.
post #135 of 140
I'm a little bit late to the party, but nice build.
post #136 of 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Tom and Mark;
for your HT when in use I assume you turn off the rope lights or have them very dimmed?

I finally added my rope lights to the riser lip, and with them dimmed quite a bit still reduced the screen contrast on the lower portion too much for me.
I was using the rope as stair step lights, ended up putting painters tape on the screen facing face which helped eliminate the shine onto the screen but still left it shining down.

Looks sorts "ghetto" if you stare at it, I'd like to put something else there to block the light from shining onto the screen but still allow it to go down.
(gives guests confidence while watching HT to enter/leave the area)

Was wondering if you left the rope lights on what solution you devised.





btw, I went el-cheapo Home Depot rope lights/opaque tracks, a 12' section + one 2' section.
Probably paid $20-ish total.

This past weekend, almost 2 years later from my 1st post in your thread, I added 1" x 1" alum angle to keep the rope light projected downward, and got rid of the blue painter tape I had on there all this time.
It really made a huge difference.

I was ready to paint the alum L green, but not needed at all.
It blends in with the carpet fine, and the alum inside helps reflect light down in a safe walking zone.
At full power almost zero light spillage now, its all directed downward.


I filed the corners so they are not sharp, a 2" lip takes the 1" angle nicely with still a lip portion showing.
I got on the floor to show detail here:
post #137 of 140
Thread Starter 
Great job Mike, looks like you came up with the perfect solution!

Cheers, Mark
post #138 of 140
Hi, I am looking at a rack similar to yours. I see in an earlier thread you recommend the HBL series for blanks. I am looking at the HBL and the BL series. The difference being flat vs flange. Any thoughts on the two? Thanks! Chad
post #139 of 140
Thread Starter 
Hey Chad - don't recall looking at the flanged style of plates, not even sure if that option was available at the time of purchase. I selected the filler plates based on color and having the least amount of light reflection which was important to my particular setup. I don't think you can go wrong with either model - good luck.
post #140 of 140
Thanks for the reply! The BL series has the same brushed finish I believe. Also looking at the the d-3 drawer and was wondering if u had the d series drawers and how u liked them. Do they match well with the rest of the blanks and faceplates? Thanks!
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