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The Official Salk Sound Owner's And Discussion Thread - Page 248

post #7411 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by repete66211 View Post

The terminals aren't bi-wire/bi-amp capable.

Then the piggy back bananas can be a solution. Look for ones that have the wire enter from the side of the plug and a hole in back end.
post #7412 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post

Then the piggy back bananas can be a solution. Look for ones that have the wire enter from the side of the plug and a hole in back end.
That's what I'm using on the amp end. I'm thinking of using bare wire on the speaker end, but stacking bananas is an option.
post #7413 of 8705
TOO Quiet Here .........every body listening to their SALKs?
post #7414 of 8705
Yup. cool.gif
post #7415 of 8705
It's too quiet in here.

I have Supercharged SongTowers, Supercharged SongCenter, SongSurrounds and the Salk/Rythmik 12" sealed sub. They are sounding fantastic. I'm not a believer in speaker break-in (theoretically), but they sound better by the day so I'm really pleased with my purchase. The bass isn't lacking but I must admit it's a bit less assertive than I was expecting. Those expectations were probably unrealistic given my large, open living space and the fact that I opted for a single 12" sealed sub. I would definitely benefit from another, larger sub but I just don't have the room right now.

Maybe that's just the way it is, but then maybe (likely?) I've just done a poor job of optimizing. Right now I've set the crossover to 80Hz. I haven't found an audio source that's been able to present a significant difference for a good A/B/C comparison to see if I might benefit from something a bit lower. I'd love to hear some input on what others have regarding bass management. I'd also like to hear some suggestions of good source material that might help me fine-tune the crossover. Or does it really even matter?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
post #7416 of 8705
^^^

the "best material" for fine tuning the xover is test tones and a measuring device...

what are you using for subwoofer eq?
post #7417 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by repete66211 View Post

It's too quiet in here.
I have Supercharged SongTowers, Supercharged SongCenter, SongSurrounds and the Salk/Rythmik 12" sealed sub. They are sounding fantastic. I'm not a believer in speaker break-in (theoretically), but they sound better by the day so I'm really pleased with my purchase. The bass isn't lacking but I must admit it's a bit less assertive than I was expecting. Those expectations were probably unrealistic given my large, open living space and the fact that I opted for a single 12" sealed sub. I would definitely benefit from another, larger sub but I just don't have the room right now.
Maybe that's just the way it is, but then maybe (likely?) I've just done a poor job of optimizing. Right now I've set the crossover to 80Hz. I haven't found an audio source that's been able to present a significant difference for a good A/B/C comparison to see if I might benefit from something a bit lower. I'd love to hear some input on what others have regarding bass management. I'd also like to hear some suggestions of good source material that might help me fine-tune the crossover. Or does it really even matter?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

First of all the songtowers have a flat tonal balance. this means that at "less-than-realistic levels" you will perceive less bass due to your hearing curve. modern Electronic Loudness Compensation can be interesting to try IE Audyssey Dynamic EQ

Second you may have placement nulls from a single sub. Try running the STs full range with the sub rolling in around 100hz - this will probably smooth things out a bit. But really you want to be able to measure what's going on so that you can work to correct any perceived issues, instead of zhooting in the dark. More subs will.of course not only improve frequency response but also headroom. Speaking of headroom, you might be able to squeeze out around 4+ db of headroom if you quadruple your amp power into a 4 ohm load.
post #7418 of 8705
Thread Starter 
EV gave great advice. You really need to see what's happening and then decide if something needs to be fixed (as in taking measurements). It's possible you have peaks and nulls, or it's possible you simply need to adjust to a flat bass response/TL style bass. I cross to dual subwoofers so I can use a parametric EQ to help reduce the room's effects and also slightly curve the bass to my liking. As the frequencies go lower my response has a slight rise, as to adjust for human hearing, and mainly because I just like how it sounds.
post #7419 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eternal Velocity View Post

...you might be able to squeeze out around 4+ db of headroom if you quadruple your amp power into a 4 ohm load.
I don't know what that means.

I don't mean to imply that I'm displeased, just that the jump from my old piece of crap (Polk PSW110) and this new beautiful sub wasn't quite as dramatic as I was hoping. I chalk that up to high (and uninformed) expectations. I'd probably rest a lot easier if I understood the PEQ settings on the Rythmik amp a little better.
post #7420 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by repete66211 View Post

I don't know what that means.

It means that if your amp is clipping at around 140 W @ 4 ohms right now, getting an amp that can do around ~560W @ 4 ohms would on paper give you around 6db more unclipped sound. In practice it may be less than a full 6db more SPL due to thermal compression effects. Since bass perception hinges on SPL, it's a possibility.
Quote:
I don't mean to imply that I'm displeased, just that the jump from my old piece of crap (Polk PSW110) and this new beautiful sub wasn't quite as dramatic as I was hoping. I chalk that up to high (and uninformed) expectations. I'd probably rest a lot easier if I understood the PEQ settings on the Rythmik amp a little better

Good bass will never flaunt itself. It will simply be there. If bass is drawing attention to itself, chances are that you have issues with clipping, driver over-excursion, port chuffing, or frequency response peaks. A lot of people's definition of bass is skewed by their "conditioning" to expect obnoxious high Q bass. Chances are it's just a matter of not focusing in on attention drawing bass. Content with lots of bass will be powerful and tight. Content you may have thought had lots of bass, may not be!

Like I said, the only way to know if what you dislike is a real issue with integration or the room, or simply a matter of "expecting more distortion", is to quantify what you've got!
post #7421 of 8705
Comprendo and thanks. To be clear, I'm not looking for the window shaking or boomy, rattling bass out of my sub. I am more interested in hearing the individual notes being played on a bass guitar in a song (for example). My problem is almost certainly the size of my condo, which has a wide open living area, basically 600 square feet without so much as a doorway. Ironically, it's too large for a sub to fill but too limited on floor space to allow for two subs.

I don't think my amp is clipping but now you've got me thinking about a separate. Is there no end to it?
Edited by repete66211 - 6/25/12 at 8:35pm
post #7422 of 8705
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by repete66211 View Post

Comprendo and thanks. To be clear, I'm not looking for the window shaking or boomy, rattling bass out of my sub. I am more interested in hearing the individual notes being played on a bass guitar in a song (for example). My problem is almost certainly the size of my condo, which has a wide open living area, basically 600 square feet without so much as a doorway. Ironically, it's too large for a sub to fill but too limited on floor space to allow for two subs.
I don't think my amp is clipping but now you've got me thinking about a separate. Is there no end to it?

There is an end, but it usually occurs after a tidy sum has been spent.

Exactly how big is your room in cubic feet (LxWxH)? Can we see a picture of the floor plan/layout?
post #7423 of 8705
334
Here's a floorplan. The living, dining and kitchen are essentially all one room and the stairway ("Entry") is open as well. For those without a microscope, my sofa is against the bottom wall of the living area, flanked by two side tables on which the Surround I rear speakers sit. My A/V gear--TV stand, SongTowers and sub--is across the room against the wall shared with the kitchen. The whole place is about 23' wide and the main listening area is about 13' wide. The ceiling is 8.5'. The unit listed at 915 square feet, but I haven't verified those numbers.
Edited by repete66211 - 6/26/12 at 9:15pm
post #7424 of 8705
Thread Starter 
And there we go - that floor plan is probably too big for one 12" subwoofer. Since the main room opens into the hall way and the dining room you need to count all of that space. Bass doesn't care whether or not one room is considered the living room and the other the dining room; all it knows is that the spaces are adjoined and open to each other. One 12" sub might not cut it, especially a sealed subwoofer. I am very sorry to appear to be "pooping in the pool," but I am just being honest with you. This could explain your dismay with the bass response, though. But it's still hard to tell exactly how many cubic feet we're looking at here. With that said, there are ways to maximize performance, but as mentioned already you'll need to measure the in-room response, at least up to 120Hz or so (200 would be better). How can we help you achieve that?

Have you tried the sub crawl method?
post #7425 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

And there we go - that floor plan is probably too big for one 12" subwoofer. Since the main room opens into the hall way and the dining room you need to count all of that space. Bass doesn't care whether or not one room is considered the living room and the other the dining room; all it knows is that the spaces are adjoined and open to each other. One 12" sub might not cut it, especially a sealed subwoofer. I am very sorry to appear to be "pooping in the pool," but I am just being honest with you. This could explain your dismay with the bass response, though. But it's still hard to tell exactly how many cubic feet we're looking at here. With that said, there are ways to maximize performance, but as mentioned already you'll need to measure the in-room response, at least up to 120Hz or so (200 would be better). How can we help you achieve that?
Have you tried the sub crawl method?
I was under no illusions regarding the room volume:bass issue. I knew my space presented a challenge. My slight disappointment isn't in the absolute performance of the new sub but rather what it's doing relative to my old crappy Polk PSW110. Don't get me wrong here; the new speakers are so much better than my old ones, but the perceived low frequency improvement isn't as dramatic as the rest. I realize that's the nature of low frequency, especially at low levels, so this is probably just a matter of unrealistic expectations.

I'm afraid sub crawl is out since there's really only one place the sub can go. It's in the corner to the left of the TV stand. I've tweaked things a bit in the last few days and it's sounding better. (Bias? Hmm, perhaps.) Maybe I should have gone with a 15" sub, but the long-term intention is to have enough room for 2x12". But that's not going to happen until the real estate market improves.
post #7426 of 8705
Thread Starter 
I completely understand being limited on placement options concerning the subwoofer. That is probably the Achilles Heal of your situation, but what can ya do? Regardless, let's see some measurements.

Do you have a SPL meter, or even better an external soundcard with phantom mic and a microphone? If so you can use REW to measure the in-room bass response. Otherwise if you do own a SPL meter you can use test tones from the Real Traps website and enter the volumes of the different frequencies into a graph that will plot the response for you. I have attached said document for you. All you do is play the 50Hz tone and turn up your preamp or receiver so it's outputting at 90dB (use the SPL meter to measure this - set it to C weighting and Slow). That will ensure the frequencies above and below it don't output much higher (hopefully). Then follow the spreadsheet and start with 16Hz tone, plotting the volumes outputted on the SPL meter in column F (column F is the only one you'll use). Do this for all the frequencies listed on the spreadsheet, and then take a screenshot of it when you're finished and post it so we can see. Ideally it'll be a flat line or have a slight curve upwards as you go lower in frequency. FreqResp.xls 26k .xls file

Here is the link to the test tones:
http://www.realtraps.com/test-cd.htm
post #7427 of 8705
Repete.... FWIW, I have two Rythmik F12's in a room of approx 4600 cf and they are more than enough. You are using a single F12 in what sounds like an even bigger space. Still, you should get markedly better SQ than with your Polk sub in the same space. One possibility is that the very clean sound of the Rythmik's is throwing you. It did me in the beginning. I have grown to love them since. As others have said, lesser subs have more distortion which sounds like more bass until you experience the difference. I don't recall what your settings are on the sub. Ultimately, most will end up with hi damping and low extension. I would suggest that you try medium damping and extension at 20 - or even low damping / 28. These variations will give you a sense of the difference. The lower the damping setting, the more "looseness" you will here in the bass. The higher frequency of the extension setting, the more you will emphasize the more audible bass range. Your Polk probably only extended into the twenties anyway. The Rythmiks are amazing that they go relatively flat down to 14.

If a lower damping/higher extension setting sounds better to you, listen that way for a few weeks. Then change damping one setting higher and I bet you will like it more. Keep moving the settings towards hi/14 until you find your sweet spot.

Oh, another trick is to use a splitter for your sub line in cable so that you are inputting to both RCA jacks. Brian (the designer) says this will give you an increase in output.

You also might visit the Rythmik thread on AVS as there is much discussion about these things there and Brian is an active participant:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/6570

Hope this helps..........
post #7428 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Do you have a SPL meter, or even better an external soundcard with phantom mic and a microphone? If so you can use REW to measure the in-room bass response. Otherwise if you do own a SPL meter you can use test tones from the Real Traps website and enter the volumes of the different frequencies into a graph that will plot the response for you. I have attached said document for you.
An external soundcard with phantom mic and a microphone? Good grief man, I'm not Spock. smile.gif I do have an SPL meter but the readout fluctuates so much I wonder about its value. Regardless, I'll see if I can't plot a chart. Thanks for providing all that.
Edited by repete66211 - 6/27/12 at 10:05am
post #7429 of 8705
I just looked at your floorplan again and realized that I thought you had a second floor with the balcony overlooking - meaning a high ceiling. Your space is actually probably smaller than mine, so you should really have enough output. Getting good flat response with one sub is another story, but you shouldn't experience lack of output.
post #7430 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post

I don't recall what your settings are on the sub. Ultimately, most will end up with hi damping and low extension. I would suggest that you try medium damping and extension at 20 - or even low damping / 28. These variations will give you a sense of the difference. The lower the damping setting, the more "looseness" you will here in the bass. The higher frequency of the extension setting, the more you will emphasize the more audible bass range. Your Polk probably only extended into the twenties anyway. The Rythmiks are amazing that they go relatively flat down to 14.
If a lower damping/higher extension setting sounds better to you, listen that way for a few weeks. Then change damping one setting higher and I bet you will like it more. Keep moving the settings towards hi/14 until you find your sweet spot.
Oh, another trick is to use a splitter for your sub line in cable so that you are inputting to both RCA jacks.
Thanks for the recommendations. I'm using a Y-splitter into the LFE. My settings are:
PEQ - OFF
Low pass - EXT/12
Rumble filter - ON
Extension Filter:
FREQ - 20 (I think.)
DAMPING - MID (I think.)

Regarding the bass Extension Filter the setup sheet states "High damping gives cleanest sound. Low damping gives the sharper roll-off below. One should try 20 Hz and all 3 damping settings to see if a difference can be heard. If not, 20/MID damping should be used." I couldn't hear a difference so that's what I went with initially. It goes on to say "Otherwise, 14Hz/HI is recommended for medium SPL playback. For high SPL, please use 28/LOW damping and set the Rumble Filter to ON." Since I listen at both medium and high SPL levels this is a bit confusing. When tweaking it a couple nights ago I may have switched to 14/HI. For what it's worth, on the Rythmik page on Blu-ray.com Enrico Castagnetti with Rythmik posted this recommendation subsequent to my settings inquiry:
Quote:
With Audyssey XT32 I wouldn't use PEQ. PEQ will help you to correct a frequency that needs to be boosted or cut down, lets say 60Hz (if you want more punch for Movies). In that case set the PEQ ON, then set the GAIN +3, BANDWIDTH MAX and FREQ 60Hz (Each dot increase the freq in 10Hz). But like I said, with XT32 you don't need the PEQ.

For initial setup use these parameters:

Before run Audyssey:

Subwoofer Low Pass: AVR/12
Rumble Filter: OFF
Extension Filter Freq: 14Hz
Extension Filter Damping: LOW

After run Audyssey:

Subwoofer Low Pass: AVR/12
Rumble Filter: OFF
Extension Filter Freq: 14Hz
Extension Filter Damping: HIGH

Then run the Subtuner 2 software to correct the delay in the AVR

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/subtuner2.html
post #7431 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post

I just looked at your floorplan again and realized that I thought you had a second floor with the balcony overlooking - meaning a high ceiling. Your space is actually probably smaller than mine, so you should really have enough output. Getting good flat response with one sub is another story, but you shouldn't experience lack of output.
Thumbnail calculation puts it at about 4,500 cubic feet, probably more if you consider the fact that all doors are usually open. The stairway is a bit of a problem too as it has the same ceiling but descends 16 steps. Oh well, at least I have carpet.

As you can see in the diagram, the bathtub is pretty close to the sub. When I was showering the other day with music playing I could hear the bass loud and clear, more pronounced even than in the room in which it was playing. That's a good demonstration of the resonance produced by corner placement and that the sub is indeed working just fine.
Edited by repete66211 - 6/27/12 at 10:56am
post #7432 of 8705
Sorry, potentially dumb question. Does using a Y-splitter gain anything if using LFE? (I just received my FV15 yesterday).
post #7433 of 8705
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nethawk View Post

Sorry, potentially dumb question. Does using a Y-splitter gain anything if using LFE? (I just received my FV15 yesterday).

Doesn't it add 3dB headroom output or something like that? That is, using it at the subwoofer end...
post #7434 of 8705
I've seen the same 3dB gain mentioned a number of times.
Edited by repete66211 - 6/28/12 at 9:17am
post #7435 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by repete66211 View Post

I've seen the same 3dB gain mentioned a number of times. If the question is "LFE or Line-In", check out this thread.

There is a difference between an LFE input and the LFE extension setting on the Rythmik. If the latter, the split input should still serve to increase output. The PEQ amps in the F12 don't have an LFE input AFAIK.
post #7436 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post

There is a difference between an LFE input and the LFE extension setting on the Rythmik. If the latter, the split input should still serve to increase output.
The latter or former?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post

The PEQ amps in the F12 don't have an LFE input AFAIK.
Although it's not on the quick setup guide or the photos/diagrams on the website the A370-PEQ amp has both LFE and Line-in. LFE has replaced the Line-out apparently. (Unless I'm misremembering.)
Edited by repete66211 - 6/27/12 at 1:05pm
post #7437 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by repete66211 View Post

The latter or former?
Although it's not on the quick setup guide or the photos/diagrams on the website the A370-PEQ amp has both LFE and Line-in. LFE has replaced the Line-out apparently. (Unless I'm misremembering.)

I meant the latter, but it could be both. I'm not familiar with how LFE inputs work. I will check my subs when I get home to see about the input configuration.
post #7438 of 8705
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post

I meant the latter, but it could be both. I'm not familiar with how LFE inputs work. I will check my subs when I get home to see about the input configuration.

I've got the 370PEQ2. It has line in and hpf out. No LFE in.
post #7439 of 8705
700
I've seen 3 versions--LINE OUT, HPF OUT and LFE IN. Mine is only a couple of months old so maybe it's just on the new ones?
(The lens is pretty scratched up so sorry about the fuzzy picture.)
post #7440 of 8705
Is yours a 370PEQ3 by any chance? It is clearly different. I'm not sure what the purpose is for LFE inputs.
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