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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 369

post #11041 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by waldwolf View Post

Joe, I think you missed this one: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=19142734&postcount=10892


ww

No, ww, I didn't miss it. But I'm here to learn, not to be contrary. I'm sure there are opinion forums. I've moved on to better things. This is still a nice thread and if it turns nasty I hope it's not my fault. Life is fun and I'm doing my best to enjoy it.
post #11042 of 25409
Maybe it is just me, but I am beginning to think it is time to split this up into 2 forums.
  1. A forum to discuss the units, as they are, and how to use them effectively and work through problems.
  2. A forum to discuss what the next generation of this type of equipment should look like.
post #11043 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenavs View Post

Maybe it is just me, but I am beginning to think it is time to split this up into 2 forums.
  1. A forum to discuss the units, as they are, and how to use them effectively and work through problems.
  2. A forum to discuss what the next generation of this type of equipment should look like.

Works for me. I'll stay here and visit #2 sometimes. Maybe the Funai thread would be a good spot for #2 (or 234). Sorry, couldn't resist.
post #11044 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck44 View Post

Seems to me I read about a box like that in another thread, but for overseas only and with a price tag around $2100.

Last time I checked, the UK Walmart (ASDA) has a box just like the 2160A for about 400 USD. Gotta love that VAT.
post #11045 of 25409
hollandboy, you are way off in post 11301:

Quote:


Obviously you're not willing to admit you were wrong about 'my' comment about multiple 'HEADS' on HDDs.

He wasn't wrong, the multi-head disk drive included more than just the head, it was the entire transfer path from the disk to the computer. It was an expensive method to improve performance, since 10 heads equalled 10 times the speed. It was used for parallel transfers from the same cylinder, they could not be used individually.

Quote:


It WAS the correct language (HDDs DO have HEADS) and that's what I wanted, NOT tuners.

It was NOT the correct language.

You may want heads but you can't get heads because there is only one transfer path and the interface uses a Logical Block Address (which means there is no way to 'talk' to a head).

Quote:


Try researching your 'opinions' before you accuse someone of not using the correct language.

Kaching.

He does know the correct language.

Quote:


I know the difference, but obviously you don't.

Kaching again.

It is you who does not know the difference so obviously it is you who does not understand the technology.

Quote:


I never proclaimed to be an A/V expert, however you seem to throw this 'lingo' around like your the expert....

Kaching yet again!

sydyen does happen to be one of the experts in this forum.
post #11046 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovid View Post

hollandboy, you are way off in post 11301:



He wasn't wrong, the multi-head disk drive included more than just the head, it was the entire transfer path from the disk to the computer. It was an expensive method to improve performance, since 10 heads equalled 10 times the speed. It was used for parallel transfers from the same cylinder, they could not be used individually.



It was NOT the correct language.

You may want heads but you can't get heads because there is only one transfer path and the interface uses a Logical Block Address (which means there is no way to 'talk' to a head).



Kaching.

He does know the correct language.



Kaching again.

It is you who does not know the difference so obviously it is you who does not understand the technology.



Kaching yet again!

sydyen does happen to be one of the experts in this forum.

I just did a search on kaching. Please explain?
post #11047 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

I just did a search on kaching. Please explain?

I suspect:
Urban Dictionary: ka-ching An imitation of the sound made by a cash register

Today, I hear it linked by the gaming industry to a slot machine winner.
post #11048 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

I just did a search on kaching. Please explain?

...or in the context of the discussion of hard disk drives, kaching is just a misspelling of caching (cache). Sorry, I'll shut up now.
post #11049 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenavs View Post

I suspect:
Urban Dictionary: ka-ching An imitation of the sound made by a cash register.

Interesting. I thought it to be the sound of sneezing in the orient.
post #11050 of 25409
Kaching is an exclamation used by test engineers when they identify a bug or defect in a product. It is often accompanied by a downward yank of the arm.

If the development team did a good job, finding a defect is hard to do, so it is a jackpot of sorts.

Ka-Ching is a better spelling.
post #11051 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by dare2be View Post

...or in the context of the discussion of hard disk drives, kaching is just a misspelling of caching (cache). Sorry, I'll shut up now.



Actually it's a substitution for "bingo"
post #11052 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovid View Post

Kaching is an exclamation used by test engineers when they identify a bug or defect in a product. It is often accompanied by a downward yank of the arm.

If the development team did a good job, finding a defect is hard to do, so it is a jackpot of sorts.

Ka-Ching is a better spelling.

I should have figured that out myself. When I did QA for a while, I didn't use that expression. It was more like "Aw ......". But it was nice to see five posts in a row without mentioning HDD heads or tuners. And I think Ka-Ching falls into the same catagory as "dialing" a phone. I'd say "whatever" but that has evolved into a word with negative implications, so:

Oh well.
post #11053 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

But it was nice to see five posts in a row without mentioning HDD heads or tuners. And I think Ka-Ching falls into the same catagory as "dialing" a phone. I'd say "whatever" but that has evolved into a word with negative implications, so:

Oh well.

I thought this thread needed a little levity...I always thought it was cha-ching anyway
post #11054 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

That's why we are here. I like the Shack 1 to 4 splitter. It needs power [downside] but comes with 4 passive terminators.

Joe, would you be able to send me or post the product info on the above item. You guys are way over my head, but I think I could figure out a good hook up.

One more thing, the problem unit is connected through a surge protector-could be the problem. I haven't had to time to play with the stuff yet!

Thanks!!
post #11055 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenavs View Post

Maybe it is just me, but I am beginning to think it is time to split this up into 2 forums.
  1. A forum to discuss the units, as they are, and how to use them effectively and work through problems.
  2. A forum to discuss what the next generation of this type of equipment should look like.

Ken:
It's not just you!!! I agree, it's been tedious lately. Nevertheless, I'm not sure what is the best thing to do. Thanks for the courage to express "our" thoughts.
Considering everyone's input although sometimes unpleasant, the thread remains superb and in a class without equal.
Thanks wajo for hanging in there for the good of all.
post #11056 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmanjoe View Post

Joe, would you be able to send me or post the product info on the above item. You guys are way over my head, but I think I could figure out a good hook up.

One more thing, the problem unit is connected through a surge protector-could be the problem. I haven't had to time to play with the stuff yetz

If you mean the coax is running thru a surge protector, get it off!
post #11057 of 25409
In Japan, we use "(orz)" to express dissapoint feeling.
post #11058 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

If you mean the coax is running thru a surge protector, get it off!

That's what I meant and I kinda thought it may be an issue, but when I tried to bypass in the past, the grounding light (on the surge protector) went out. So I figured my components weren't protected! What do I know!

I will reconfigure my hook ups as soon as my wife lets me move the furniture around!

Much thanks!
post #11059 of 25409
Sorry but I cannot keep myself following thread because this thread is very popular and fast moving. Like a long sentence chatting!
If somebody find any important description that I missed pick up, please let me know. (ioi)
post #11060 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmanjoe View Post

That's what I meant and I kinda thought it may be an issue, but when I tried to bypass in the past, the grounding light (on the surge protector) went out. So I figured my components weren't protected! What do I know!

I will reconfigure my hook ups as soon as my wife lets me move the furniture around!

Sounds like a new surge protector for the electrical plug-ins is in order, too!?
post #11061 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmanjoe View Post

Joe, would you be able to send me or post the product info on the above item. You guys are way over my head, but I think I could figure out a good hook up.

One more thing, the problem unit is connected through a surge protector-could be the problem. I haven't had to time to play with the stuff yet!

Thanks!!

Yes, lose the surge supressor for RF or CAT5. The Shack splitter is 15-2506 selling for 49.49 at the moment. Add some 90 degree adapters if it's up high. Do not expect to see any display changes if watching a digital channel. It is digital after all. I don't use it for the gain, just for the organizational ability.
post #11062 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by 234 View Post

Sorry but I cannot keep myself following thread because this thread is very popular and fast moving. Like a long sentence chatting!
If somebody find any important description that I missed pick up, please let me know. (ioi)

Dear 234,

It is hard to keep up with a popular thread. You have a popular device. If you would keep us informed about future changes that would be nice. Be happy.

Joe
post #11063 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Sounds like a new surge protector for the electrical plug-ins is in order, too!?

While entering a reply to #9 I had a 6 second power outage. I am also doing a RTD of this summer's Burn Notice. I know since my lights went out. I love my UPS. All I need to do is reset the clock on my microwave. Just another day.
post #11064 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Sounds like a new surge protector for the electrical plug-ins is in order, too!?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Yes, lose the surge supressor for RF or CAT5. The Shack splitter is 15-2506 selling for 49.49 at the moment. Add some 90 degree adapters if it's up high. Do not expect to see any display changes if watching a digital channel. It is digital after all. I don't use it for the gain, just for the organizational ability.

Thanks to you both-I will have fun playing with this!
post #11065 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

If you mean the coax is running thru a surge protector, get it off!


Hi Wajo,

Why?
post #11066 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely View Post

Hi Wajo,

Why?

Surge suppressors with coax connection have caused problems for a few users that clear up when the coax is run directly. Not sure of the tech. reason except it must have something to do with the suppressor circuit on that connection? Problems have been related to PQ, I believe, and maybe also signal strength, so it must add some "noise" which can affect not only PQ but also this DVDR's amp'd coax circuit???
post #11067 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Intriguing review on walmart.com?

The most recent anonymous reviewer says this:

"... For those of you having issues taping more than one show with comcast .....this is what you do
1. press info and look for setup VCR or recording
2 highlight the " R " and you are done
3 set the recorder to record from external source making sure you can see the Tv show thats being played thru the unit.
4. Set the time on the recorder and you are done"

Not having Comcast, I'm curious if this is an "epiphany" or a "fuggedaboutit" moment!?
post #11068 of 25409
Wajo-

We've sort of talked about this already. Not all the Comcast boxes, not even the full sized ones, can do this.

Some CAN be set to work with a VCR/recorder, but many can't. Depends on the model you have.

I forget what model number was recommended.

Gotta go now. BACK TO THE FUTURE PART TWO is on, and I want to see what life in the U.S. will be like in the distant future year of 2015.
post #11069 of 25409
Thread Starter 



DVD-to-PC, HDD-to-HDD, Title Recovery

Junp to:
DVD-to-PC
HDD-to-HDD
Title Recovery

DVD-to-PC


Following are some posts on DVD-to-PC title copying and PC tools for handling them.

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by greg28 View Post

At the end of the day, I have to be able to convert to PC storage. I'd prefer both DVD and PC copies. I thought I could record to the HDD and then make a DVD from it as well as transfer from the HDD to the PC. But apparently that's not quite the case.
Well, DVD and PC copies are pretty much the same from a data perspective. It's more a matter of the container and the time involved to get stuff off a DVD recorder. You would make the digital transfer of the VHS tape using the DVD recorder. As noted, the only way to get the transfer out of the DVD recorder is to burn it off onto DVD-R. If you choose, you can edit it on the DVDR before burning to make a finished DVD -- or just burn the "raw" footage to a DVD-RW and edit it on the PC before authoring a compilation to a DVD-R or BD-R. The format of the burned DVD-R/RW is DVD Video. You just put that disk in your PC and there are any number of programs available that will let you extract the individual titles from the disk and save them into any of the standard video containers -- .mpg, .m2ts, MKV, etc. As long as you leave the video format as MPEG-2, there is no re-encoding which means there is no loss in video quality since all you are doing is changing container format -- it's a very fast process that could take a minute or less per SD title -- it takes me ~2 min to save a 5GB HDTV recording as an .m2ts or .mpg file. All these standard containers can be played by almost any PC program like WMP or VLC. You could make compilations of any combination and author them to DVD at any time you needed -- it's all just a matter of some simple software.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CitiBear View Post

In my experience, once these are digitized to DVD, any attempt to extract them as standalone files results in a further degradation of quality- even a so called "lossless MPEG" extraction.
I'm sorry but that is simply not the case. There is no degradation. The .VOB files of a DVD Video are simply containers that hold the MPEG-2 video stream and the audio streams. When you extract a title from a multi-title .VOB you simply pull the streams out of the .VOB container and mux them into a new container format. The streams are bit-image replicas of the originals. There is no change to the actual video data -- as long as you are not recoding to either change the codec or shrink the size of the stream.

It's the same as if someone hands you a bag containing two sandwiches, closed with a twist-tie. You open the twist tie, remove one of the sandwiches and put it in a ziplock bag. You have not changed the sandwich in any way, it will still taste the same. You only put it in a new bag.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by greg28 View Post

I primarily want backup sources before the VHS tapes eventually deteriorate. As long as I can rip them from the DVD to a computer in any playable format, I am fine with that.
That is the case. There is no great mystery here. You can play a DVD on a PC, right. In the simplest case you use a program like ImgBurn to rip the full DVD to an .iso file (disk image). Just about every PC player will play a DVD.iso image file as if it were the disk in the DVD drive.

Everything is digitally convertible to everything -- as long as you don't recode, there is no loss and the copies are bit-image replicas of the A/V streams.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by greg28 View Post

What's the recommended way to rip to a PC for archival storage? I obviously don't want any data loss but are there different options that result in different file type sizes?
The absolute simplest way to rip a home-made DVD to PC for archival storage is to use ImgBurn and rip it as a DVD.iso file. VLC and most PC media players will play a DVD.iso perfectly with full DVD menu support as if you were playing the original disk in a DVD player. On top of that, DVD.iso is an image format so you can use ImgBurn any time you want to burn that DVD.iso back to a DVD-R for whatever reason. And of course, since DVD.iso is an image format there is absolutely no loss of video quality -- it is a bit-image copy of the original disk.

I have over 600 TV show DVD's stored on my servers for whole-house streaming and every one is stored as DVD.iso.


Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

HDD-to-HDD

 

Several ways to get titles from one DVDR HDD to another.

 

File-to-File - Best method I've seen for possible copying of FILES directly between DVDR HDDs is described by Pikey for his Philips 3455 as:

"The only way I had of recovering the videos was to download a "live" version of Ubuntu. I then booted up into that OS, and was able to mount the old hard disk, and copy the files from it. I had to remove the new hard disk from the recorder and mount that as well, and copy the files over but, once done, my old videos were on the new replacement hard disk."

 

Here's another post on cloning a HDD with a Linux Ubuntu system that might be interesting to someone, someday?

Quote:
Originally Posted by brianko View Post
 

So, the cloning process went well...got another WD Green drive, installed both drives in my Linux machine, booted with an old Ubuntu 6.06 Live CD I had lying around, and then used the following command from the terminal window to clone:

 

sudo dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb bs=4096 conv=noerror,notrunc

 

(Note:  If you use two identical hard drives you will have to figure out which is which, because you don't want to accidentally write over your good disk!  Here's what I did:  I copied the first 4096 bytes to temporary files, then looked at them with a binary editor.  The "good" drive will have the revision embedded in the first 4K bytes.  Something like this will work:

 

dd if=/dev/sda bs=4096 count=1 of=/tmp/sda.tmp

dd if=/dev/sdb bs=4096 count=1 of=/tmp/sdb.tmp

vim -b /tmp/sda.tmp (If you see "6.11" embedded in the output, it's the "good" drive...exit with ESC-:q)

vim -b /tmp/sdb.tmp (double check)

 

It took about 3 hours for the copy to finish.  Something new I learned:  You can send a USR1 signal to the dd process and it will return the progress of the copy.)

 

So the cloned drive was tested first, booted right up.

 

The "good" drive?  Not so lucky...just the MOXI logo.  Did all the normal things, couldn't get it to boot. Damn.

 

Another AVS search suggested pulling all the cables (except power and HDMI of course) and then rebooting.  Success!  Plugged the SDV USB cable, network cable, and coax back in, everything came back.

 

Wish I had known this before shelling out $300 to Arris for refurb units...live and learn I guess.

 

Single-Title Sneakernet - You can real-time copy/dub one or more titles from one DVDR HDD to DVD-RW or DVD+RW discs (however many will fit on the DVD), then copy them to a new DVDR HDD... make sure you wear sneakers while running between machines

 

Bulk-Title HDD-to-HDD - Two methods for real-time "bulk" copying of DVDR titles direct from the HDD of one DVDR to the HDD of another DVDR with DVDs as "dummy" targets:

 

1. From One PhilMag DVDR to Other DVDR or PC with Video/Audio Input Card.

Only way I've found to "batch" copy titles from one of our DVDRs to another unit's HDD w/o teardown is to set up a dub list of 6-hours worth of titles and dub that w/internal drives to a RW disc at SLP rec mode (select SLP in dub menu), while simultaneously copying to the HDD of the other machine via the analog I/O (normal external copying). Repeat for all desired titles in 6-hour increments. No single title can be over 4:59:59 for a SLP dub. This has to be a RTD to get normal output of what's being dubbed, i.e., can't use HSD.

 

If totally unattended, each title will have the "Writing to disc" stuff a normal dub adds at the end, but this can be deleted in edit on the other machine. If you babysit the copying, you could come back for the end of each title and press PAUSE on the copying machine and wait for start of the next title to continue REC.


The picture coming from the outputs of the playing machine will not be in SLP quality, it'll be in the quality of the original titles on the playing machine.

 

Since THIS has suddenly become a point of contention from our resident "argumentarian" (who doesn't have this DVDR), you can test this yourself as follows:

 

1. Record short section of live TV at 2-hr-SP with text as part of pic, like an ESPN talk show. Notice normal "2-hr-quality appearance" while it's playing... this is what your 2nd recorder/HDD will see and record.


2. Dub that to a disc in real-time at 6-hr-SLP, while noticing the SAME "2-hr-SP-quality appearance" during the RTD.


3. Play disc copy and notice the obvious quality difference, especially edges of text. Talking heads on ESPN should look GREAT but they'll look exactly like 6-hr-SLP quality, cuz it is on the disc!

 

This test will show that what you see, and what gets passed thru to the other HDD, during a RTD is the original quality of the recorded title(s), even tho you may be dubbing it at a much lower quality at the time..

2. From Pioneer, Panasonic or Other DVDR with "Playlist" Feature to PhilMag DVDR.

If the titles you want to get on this DVDR's HDD are on a Panasonic, Pioneer or other recorder with auto-play, program-play, Play-Mode menu (Pioneers) or Playlist menu (Panasonic), you can set it to play titles from its HDD to the HDD of this DVDR. (Also works for DVD titles if the machine can program-play them as well.)

Set a play program in the other DVDR, up to 12-hours worth of titles in the order you want (or any order since you'll be separating the titles on the Mag HDD later). Start the titles playing, press REC on this DVDR, and this DVDR will record continuously for 12 hours (11:59:59 to be exact).

 

Note: Don't activate any menus on the playing machine since those will most likely get recorded as part of the video (whatever you see on screen you will record).

Before recording, you can pre-set this DVDR's Recording > Auto Chapter menu to 30- or 60-minute interval to make finding title breaks easier. Then, in the Edit menu, use the NEXT button to make big single moves that should get you close to the ends of typical titles. Use SKIP and REPLAY to make smaller single moves, then FF/REW as usual.

 

Once a batch of titles is on this DVDR's HDD, use the Scene Delete and Divide features in the Edit menu to clean transitions and separate into titles on this DVDR's HDD.

(This DVDR can't auto-play titles from the HDD, only from DVDs, so you can't reverse this HDD>HDD procedure.)


Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

Title Recovery

When you delete a Title from the HDD, it isn't really deleted, just the Title info, which is the pointer to the actual files on the disc like the filename in our computers. As long as deleted titles aren't overwritten by future use, those titles may be recoverable.

 

One app used successfuly is Recuva. It might take a while for a HDD with many files, so you might want to start with a normal scan instead of the "Deep Scan" option available, which can be tried later if the files you want aren't captured on first try.

 

Here's a post on recovering files to an uncorrupted drive as a disk image that you can "attack" with Recuva or any other app without fear.
 

Here's a recent (Nov 2012) post by a user who recovered files from a 2005 Panasonic EH50 HDD using hex editor Winhex and mpeg reader Mpeg2Cut2. Simple process that might work for HDDs from other machines, like ours?

 

Ken.F found a way to recover titles deleted from a DVD, as described here.

A Lite-On DVDR user posted on a simple way to find and recover files on a video HDD, using a "simple file recovery app" then changing the file extensions to .mpg. He even recovered previously DELETED files!

Stapler1234 posted on a program called Spinrite, here.

 

I've always wondered if an app called CDRoller might be able to read and "recover" files on our HDDs. jam-h has used it successfully on a Mag DVD, but I hadn't heard of anyone trying to use it on a HDD. So, I emailed and got a confirmation that they had tested it on a camcorder HDD attached via USB.

Here's that confirmation with more info for anyone who wants to try it with an external HDD system:
 

Thanks for your attention to CDRoller. We have already assisted some users to retrieve the lost video from HDD built in camcorders. However, please keep in mind, each camcorder was connected to PCs via USB port and had a separate letter in the Windows Computer. We did not test the work with Magnavox HDD connected via Sata to PC. At first, please try the newest trial version at http://www.cdroller.com/htm/download.html . Also, if you need a temporary license key to complete the tests, just let me know.

A couple of common words how to use CDRoller.
1. Connect you recorder to PC and make sure it has a letter in the Windows My Computer.
2. Run CDRoller. By default, the program works in CD/DVD data recovery mode. Please switch CDRoller into the Flash data recovery mode selecting the 'Flash data recovery' in the 'View'\\'Program mode'.
3. Restart CDRoller. Does the program recognize your recorder in the Flash data recovery mode? If yes, what info do you see in the File System column?

Paul Goldenberg
CDRoller Development & Support Dept
Digital Atlantic Corp.
support@cdroller.com
http://www.cdroller.com

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.


Edited by wajo - 2/20/14 at 9:41am
post #11070 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Intriguing review on walmart.com?

The most recent anonymous reviewer says this:

"... For those of you having issues taping more than one show with comcast .....this is what you do
1. press info and look for setup VCR or recording
2 highlight the " R " and you are done
3 set the recorder to record from external source making sure you can see the Tv show thats being played thru the unit.
4. Set the time on the recorder and you are done"

Not having Comcast, I'm curious if this is an "epiphany" or a "fuggedaboutit" moment!?

Well, it might be an epiphany for that poster, but being able to program channel changes is old news for the rest of the gang. Downside is (at least on my motorola) it persists in sending out messages that it's about to change the channel, or about to record (ta da!!!!!!) and you can't disable them, so it ruins the recordings unless you set it to start a few mins early and end a few mins late. That works fine, as long as I'm not trying to do back to back recordings from different channels. Not all cable boxes have this, and it took me awhile to find it since it's hiding in the channel lineup and accessed by one of the indecipherable little icons -this one is labeled VCR recording! You set the channel changes on the STB telling it to "record" that particular program, even though it can't, then set the maggie to record from Line In that is receiving the cable box output and hope it remembers to change the channel. Most of the time it does. You have to set it up to "record' in both places ... the STB indicates the program (and you have to do each one separately, but it does take multiple changes), and the 2160 is set to record Line input at a particular time. On my stb, you can't just set the box to change channels, you HAVE to use the program guide to set the timer to change the program.

(I'm using a Moto DCH3200)

When I was trying to get a second box, the customer "service" guy couldn't promise me that I'd get a box with this function, though I specifically requested it, as well as HDMI and component and svideo out... no idea what they're giving out nowadays, but not all of them can do it (be programmed to timer-change channels). I decided to not play the lottery and cancelled my order for STB #2.
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