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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 407

post #12181 of 23783
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Compubooth View Post

I plan to make changes per your red-line suggestions ASAP. BTW, per your red-line advice for changing connectivity, how do I exit both STB with coax to TV and also Mag2 with coax to TV?

Afterward, I plan to execute FW Update BE 718 per your advice.

This may be a day or so due to other personal priorities.

That's an either/or thing... I don't know if your STB has coax passthru or not, or which unit would work best to just watch TV thru w/o turning anything else on, or even if your TV has the right tuners so you can watch it thru the coax, etc., etc. etc.. Whichever "floats your boat," as they say?
post #12182 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Just think how we would be viewing things if DAT wasn't killed by those afraid of the quality that could be achieved with magnetic tape 10 years ago. Magnetic tape is just the media, not the method. Granted, it's not the random access we are used to, but DAT is still a high quality recording process. But not popular. It just never had a chance to grow up.

As for digital VCR units, I have a JVC and Mitsubishi, and both can do 1080i via firewire. But they both got crushed by DVD and random access. Such is history. I'll do better next time.

Yes but we each contribute in our own little way to keep technology rolling along. What hurts is these days technology changes too fast so it is felt harder. In seven years those with SSD's will wonder how those with HDD's ever managed.... unless something else replaces those.
post #12183 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by Compubooth View Post

Allow me to outline facts bearing on my 2160A problem. On 11/17/10, I installed a Time Warner Cable box into my "network" configuration of installed daisy-chained 2160A's and other equipment.

The 2160A "freeze" problem developed on 11/28/10 which may or may not be specifically relevant. The following summarizes the revised network" configuration which works well notwithstanding the current freeze problem. Two Maggies are identified as Mag1 and Mag2. Mag2 is the one with the freeze problem.

Cable coax from wall > In Phillips 2-way Cable Splitter (5-900 MHZ)
Splitter Side-1 coax Out > In STB > coax Out > In Mag1
STB Component (Video-Audio) > TV Component-3
Mag1 HDMI > TV HDMI-1
Mag1 Composite/S-Video > TV Video-1
Splitter Side-2 coax Out > In Mag2
Mag2 coax Out > SONY RDRVDR655 (VHS/DVD Combo)
Mag2 Composite > TV Video-3
SONY RDRVDR655 (VHS/DVD Combo) coax Out > In TV
SONY RDRVDR655 (VHS/DVD Combo) HDMI Out > HDMI 3

Electricity is via 2 separate surge protectors: Mag2 and STB by one; all other equipment by another. These 2 surge protectors are plugged into 2-plug AC wall outlet.

Please comment regarding my configuration. Everything seemed fine until the freeze problem started a few days ago.

Which HDMI connections should be unplugged per your suggestion?

While I don't see how it could hurt to update the firmware, I also would not expect it too help, since there are a fair number of 2160As out there using the old firmware(Mine has the original firmware in it), and I don't recall anyone else reporting your problem.

If I followed you correctly, you often, or always, get a freeze, which you can detect from the front panel display, when you power down and up.
In your situation, I would try minimizing the connections to Mag2 to see if it is being upset by something.
I would disconect all the inputs and outputs to Mag2 except for a direct connection to the cable jack, and with nothing else connected to that cable jack, and try a number of power cycles and see if I still got a freeze. If I did, I would stongly suspect a problem with Mag2.
If I could get Mag2 to power cycle with just cable RF-in connected, I would then try a basic connection to a TV. I would use the Composite/S-Video now connected to Mag1. I would also make sure that Mag2 and the TV were plugged into the same power strip that the TV is now plugged into. I would also unplug anything on any other TV inputs.
Since Mag1 works with the TV, if Mag2 would not not work with the same TV using the same cables, I would suspect Mag2. If Mag 2 became reliable in that basic configuration, I would then try to grow the configuration to see what breaks it.

Whatever you decide to do, I wish you luck.
post #12184 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by 234 View Post

Dear Compubooth,

Please check if my understanding is correct.

If it is correct, I am sorry but the unit is broken.
The MAG unit is not connected HDMI. Just RCA and RF.
I cannot find any point that I can guess.

Please send it to a retailer for repair.

234

Troubled unit identified by me as Mag2 is not HDMI connected.

Based on your conclusion and advice, should I forget wajo's red-line suggestions and forget FW BE 718 update.
post #12185 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenavs View Post


Whatever you decide to do, I wish you luck.

Thanks for your post. Please see 234's latest advice to send the unit for repair. Your suggestions are well taken and I'll likely pursue these and others. I'm fairly certain this Refurbished 2160A purchased June 1, 2010 is no longer under warranty.
post #12186 of 23783
First, the 515 is connected to Satellite receiver (SAT) and HDTV as shown on Mag manual page 19, with the following 2 changes: 1) RCA video/audio Out from 515 to HDTV uses HDMI cable (HDMI #1 Input). 2) RCA video Out from SAT to 515 video In uses S-video In and the RCA audio Out of the SAT to the 515 audio In (L1).

Also, the HDTV still has 2 HDMI inputs available and also ColorStream HD2 input (ColorStream HD1 input is used by a DVD player), and, a Video 1 input.
The SAT has an unused HDMI output, and, Component Output.

QUESTIONS:
A) What connections need to be made in order to have the option to by-pass going through the 515 when recording is not desired, but, can still watch SAT programing? Picture degrading?
B) Are coax spitters required? Where? What type?
C) Can the SAT HDMI Out be connected to the HDTV's HDMI #2 In and still provide a picture? What other connections need to be made?
Thanks for all suggestions.
post #12187 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by excolprof View Post

[...]
C) Can the SAT HDMI Out be connected to the HDTV's HDMI #2 In and still provide a picture? What other connections need to be made?

Thanks for all suggestions.

It should. What is the make/model of your TV? Perhaps someone here has the same and give you detailed help. I used to have my 2160 connected to my TV via an HDMI A-B switch without any issues. You could also specify the make & model of your SAT box. That could help too.
post #12188 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

It should. What is the make/model of your TV? Perhaps someone here has the same and give you detailed help. I used to have my 2160 connected to my TV via an HDMI A-B switch without any issues. You could also specify the make & model of your SAT box. That could help too.

TV is a Toshiba, model 47ZV65OU, Sat receiver, Dish Network VIP211K HD.
post #12189 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by excolprof View Post

1) RCA video/audio Out from 515 to HDTV uses HDMI cable (HDMI #1 Input).

You have a simple configuration but RCA is a connector type and RCA Video/Audio Out is the synonym for Composite Out. Are you using some kind of Composite/HDMI adapter cable from or is it really 515 HDMI Out to TV HDMI In?

SAT -- S-Video/Audio --> 515
515 ------- ???? -------> TV

Quote:
A) What connections need to be made in order to have the option to by-pass going through the 515 when recording is not desired, but, can still watch SAT programing? Picture degrading?

You need a direct connection to the TV.

SAT ------- HDMI -------> TV

Quote:
B) Are coax spitters required? Where? What type?

Unless you have an antenna you have not told us about, no.

Quote:
C) Can the SAT HDMI Out be connected to the HDTV's HDMI #2 In and still provide a picture? What other connections need to be made?

Yes and None.

As a rule of thumb, all outputs on electronic devices are active unless the user's manual says differently e.g. on the recorder you have to choose between S-Video and Composite for L1.

FWIW, Colorstream is a trademarked name which most people would not know, and is generically known as Component Video.
post #12190 of 23783
Please excuse my ignorance, but can you use this machine to record VHS tapes? I assume you'd have to connect the two players somehow.
post #12191 of 23783
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by maliwyoming View Post

Please excuse my ignorance, but can you use this machine to record VHS tapes? I assume you'd have to connect the two players somehow.

Yes, see this help file for info and procedure.

Click #1 in my sig. for a list of all help files.
post #12192 of 23783


So, we watched Fringe last night that we recorded the night before - it was crappy looking. Dark, muddled, etc. Of course, no CC coming through at all. We bought a brand new Panasonic Viera plasma about 2 weeks ago. I just hooked up this DVR to it via HDMI.

Today I was checking all of the settings to see if something was wrong to make such a bad picture. I noticed, by accident, that when watching a show via the DVR's built-in digital tuner that the picture was about HALF as bright and brilliant as it was to watch the show directly with the HDTV's built-in digital tuner. It totally matched how bad the recorded Fringe show looked.

It's as if, now that an HDTV is in the mix (vs old CRT) that the DVR doesn't know what to do. I've watched DVDs that I made previously on the same DVR and they look fine on the TV. But stuff I watched directly, or stuff I tried to record, from OTA digital TV today - it all was dark and bad looking.

Any idea what is going on???
thanks
post #12193 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post



So, we watched Fringe last night that we recorded the night before - it was crappy looking. Dark, muddled, etc. Of course, no CC coming through at all. We bought a brand new Panasonic Viera plasma about 2 weeks ago. I just hooked up this DVR to it via HDMI.

Today I was checking all of the settings to see if something was wrong to make such a bad picture. I noticed, by accident, that when watching a show via the DVR's built-in digital tuner that the picture was about HALF as bright and brilliant as it was to watch the show directly with the HDTV's built-in digital tuner. It totally matched how bad the recorded Fringe show looked.

It's as if, now that an HDTV is in the mix (vs old CRT) that the DVR doesn't know what to do. I've watched DVDs that I made previously on the same DVR and they look fine on the TV. But stuff I watched directly, or stuff I tried to record, from OTA digital TV today - it all was dark and bad looking.

Any idea what is going on???
thanks

I can venture a guess. It's only a guess. My TV has the ability to define almost every screen & picture parameter by input or globally. I chose the local settings, since I fed it with an assortment of devices. My TV tuner is the only input that doesn't support "full pixel" or highest resolution since there are no broadcast 1080p channels (i think). You might compare the settings for the TV tuner to those of the HDMI input. Since switching to an A/V receiver, the TV only has two inputs to configure now. I used to have five different HDMI inputs. Some small adjustment was usually needed per input. But that's my TV, yours may be nothing like this.

Your recording was a real test. A 720p show content recorded to a 480i drive then played back and possibly upconverted before being displayed at 1080p. I wouldn't know where to start.
post #12194 of 23783
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post

:I tried to record, from OTA digital TV today - it all was dark and bad looking.

Besides trying other connection types, check out this help file on HDMI settings (esp. YCbCr) and see if any of it might apply?
post #12195 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by excolprof View Post

TV is a Toshiba, model 47ZV65OU, Sat receiver, Dish Network VIP211K HD.

In addition to what wajo has described, you can connect the HDMI from the Dish box to an HDMI input on the TV and get the signal sent without the 515H being involved. My sister has a similar configuration (same box). Perhaps the input can be added to your "favorites" or recent channel selection, giving you quick switching. Nice TV.
post #12196 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydyen View Post

You have a simple configuration but RCA is a connector type and RCA Video/Audio Out is the synonym for Composite Out. Are you using some kind of Composite/HDMI adapter cable from or is it really 515 HDMI Out to TV HDMI In?

SAT -- S-Video/Audio --> 515
515 ------- ???? -------> TV



You need a direct connection to the TV.

SAT ------- HDMI -------> TV



Unless you have an antenna you have not told us about, no.



Yes and None.

As a rule of thumb, all outputs on electronic devices are active unless the user's manual says differently e.g. on the recorder you have to choose between S-Video and Composite for L1.

FWIW, Colorstream is a trademarked name which most people would not know, and is generically known as Component Video.

Yes, I have made a direct connection from 515 HDMI out to TV HDMI #2 input. Working OK, can switch from HDMI #1 as source to HDMI #2 as source with my Harmony remote.
Recap, the HDMI #2 is connected per 515 diagram (page 19) as noted previously, and, the HDMI #1 goes from SAT HDMI out directly to TV HDMI #1 in.

Still need to program the Harmony remote to control everything (tested using individual remotes) thus reducing 4 remotes to ONE.
Thanks for help and verification.
post #12197 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

In addition to what wajo has described, you can connect the HDMI from the Dish box to an HDMI input on the TV and get the signal sent without the 515H being involved. My sister has a similar configuration (same box). Perhaps the input can be added to your "favorites" or recent channel selection, giving you quick switching. Nice TV.

Thanks, tested with individual remotes--works. Now to program the Harmony remote to make controlling easier.
post #12198 of 23783
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by excolprof View Post

Thanks, tested with individual remotes--works. Now to program the Harmony remote to make controlling easier.

If you've not already thought of this, you can also connect a rabbit ears or other antenna and connect to the 515 for local channels tunable directly with the 515, after an Auto Channel Preset > Antenna... maybe get some good extra channels?
post #12199 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post



So, we watched Fringe last night that we recorded the night before - it was crappy looking. Dark, muddled, etc. Of course, no CC coming through at all. We bought a brand new Panasonic Viera plasma about 2 weeks ago. I just hooked up this DVR to it via HDMI.

Today I was checking all of the settings to see if something was wrong to make such a bad picture. I noticed, by accident, that when watching a show via the DVR's built-in digital tuner that the picture was about HALF as bright and brilliant as it was to watch the show directly with the HDTV's built-in digital tuner. It totally matched how bad the recorded Fringe show looked.

It's as if, now that an HDTV is in the mix (vs old CRT) that the DVR doesn't know what to do. I've watched DVDs that I made previously on the same DVR and they look fine on the TV. But stuff I watched directly, or stuff I tried to record, from OTA digital TV today - it all was dark and bad looking.

Any idea what is going on???
thanks

I had similar results with my 1080p Samsung plazma. I tried everything mentioned in this thread with no improvement, everything looking very dark. I finally set the output resolution to 1080p. still not as good as tv's tuner, but much, much better! to change the output resolution, press the HDMI button on the remote, each time you press the resolution changes.
post #12200 of 23783
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgcss View Post

I had similar results with my 1080p Samsung plazma. I tried everything mentioned in this thread with no improvement, everything looking very dark. I finally set the output resolution to 1080p. still not as good as tv's tuner, but much, much better! to change the output resolution, press the HDMI button on the remote, each time you press the resolution changes.

Note to Samsung HDTV users: I had a PM conversation with a 3576 user who has a 52" Samsung and got a dark pic in one particular scene of a commercial DVD. He set his 3576 to HDMI Format = YCbCr cuz it brightened his pic up for both TV watching and for recording! He also mentioned that there was a YCbCr setting in his TV, and setting that ON made things worse! Obviously, he just left his TV setting OFF.
post #12201 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericole View Post



So, we watched Fringe last night that we recorded the night before - it was crappy looking. Dark, muddled, etc. Of course, no CC coming through at all. We bought a brand new Panasonic Viera plasma about 2 weeks ago. I just hooked up this DVR to it via HDMI.

Today I was checking all of the settings to see if something was wrong to make such a bad picture. I noticed, by accident, that when watching a show via the DVR's built-in digital tuner that the picture was about HALF as bright and brilliant as it was to watch the show directly with the HDTV's built-in digital tuner. It totally matched how bad the recorded Fringe show looked.

It's as if, now that an HDTV is in the mix (vs old CRT) that the DVR doesn't know what to do. I've watched DVDs that I made previously on the same DVR and they look fine on the TV. But stuff I watched directly, or stuff I tried to record, from OTA digital TV today - it all was dark and bad looking.

Any idea what is going on???
thanks

Had a very similar experience with my 40" Sumsung LCD tv and my 3575 when I first hooked up the HDMI cable. The picture was very dark with washed out colors during dark scenes, although not so bad during lighter ones. No amount of tweaking the tv settings made a significant difference.

So I basically left it connected via HDMI but watched through the also connected component video cable--a much better picture. Sometime later (months?) I happened to view the DVR output through the HDMI connection again and it had dramically improved! So much so it's my preferred connection for viewing. If I did something to cause this I can't tell you what it was, and I realize "give it time" isn't a very good trouble shooting approach, but you're probably going to have to view via composite or component (better) cables until you (or we) figure something out.

There were no issues like this when I hooked up my 2160a to the Sumsung via HDMI.

edit. BTW neither HDMI or component video will support CC, you'll need to view via composite connection if you want that function
post #12202 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo View Post

All my Magnavox and Philips recorders, whether they are HDD/DVD recorders, DVD recorders or VHS/DVD combo recorders, may freely swap unfinalized DVDs as long as all the recorders have Make Recordings Compatible set to "ON." ...

Can anyone tell me if a Magnavox ZV457MG9 or ZV427MG9 VHS/DVR can be controlled with a 2160a or 3576 remote? To what extent?
Similarly, how about a Toshiba DVR620?

Thanks!
post #12203 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by McSam View Post

Can anyone tell me if a Magnavox ZV457MG9 or ZV427MG9 VHS/DVR can be controlled with a 2160a or 3576 remote? To what extent?
Similarly, how about a Toshiba DVR620?

Thanks!

Magnavox, Sylvania and PYE remotes interchange. Philips and Toshiba remotes don't interchange with other brands or each other.
post #12204 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo View Post

Magnavox, Sylvania and PYE remotes interchange. Philips and Toshiba remotes don't interchange with other brands or each other.

Also, SV2000 (Walmart) and Presidian (Radio Shack) remotes interchange.

Rusty
post #12205 of 23783
I should clarify - my TV is a 720p plasma (42"). Not a 1080p.

thanks
post #12206 of 23783
THanks for the CC note - the whole CC thing regarding digital TV, HDTV, etc is very annoying!!!

On the component video thing - that's what I had at first b/c I didn't have any HDMI cables. I'm pretty sure I watched it with those - but since I had no issues with the PQ until the HDMI cable, can't be sure! I thought about hooking those back up and trying - just haven't had a chance yet.
post #12207 of 23783
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgcss View Post

I had similar results with my 1080p Samsung plazma. I tried everything mentioned in this thread with no improvement, everything looking very dark. I finally set the output resolution to 1080p. still not as good as tv's tuner, but much, much better! to change the output resolution, press the HDMI button on the remote, each time you press the resolution changes.

I think I went through all of the HDMI output settings - even though non-supported ones for the TV aren't supposed to show up. As I recall, the picture looked basically the same on each setting. I thought that was weird. I can try again though.
post #12208 of 23783
I prefer to Philips, it's a better brand for me
post #12209 of 23783
During the weekend, I discovered that my 2160A (Mag2) will also restart from Standby status, after a normal Power Off using Standby-ON button. This occurs only after waiting a sufficient amount of time after the Power Off. Numerous trials substantiate that my previous conclusion is incomplete. I thought it was necessary to do Soft Reset in every case after a Power Off.

In most cases, if the Power Off using Standby-ON is normal, the Standby-ON will work, but only after waiting an allotted time. I believe the allotted time has to be about an hour, ideally several hours, but I'm not sure what the minimum time is.

It is necessary to do Soft Reset in every case after a freeze, and after waiting an allotted time.
post #12210 of 23783
As I mentioned in the second paragraph of my 11/30 post, from my experience, you need to leave the machine off for about 30 minutes beforing turning back on after using the machine.

These machines do not work like a light switch where you can turn it off and on as quickly as you want. The machines need time to power/spin down and sometimes cool off a little before being powered back up.
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