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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 52

post #1531 of 23903
Just installed my new Philips DVDR3576H (Hard Disk DVD Recorder). It has HDMI output with selectable Rez 480p, 720p, 1080i & 1080p. I replaced the Philips HDRW720P which I've had for 4-5 years. It served me well but the timer stopped working, a perfect excuse to get a new one. The DVDR3576H has an ATSC tuner but its only standard, wont do HD. I put my Directv via S-vid to the recorder then run it to the TV, looks great, this is only for recording, I actually watch my directv on another HDMI input straight from the direct receiver to the Sony TV. Still, the Philips has a super nice picture when fed good sources. I also took my Toshiba HD-DVD A20 out of the loop. Playing DVD's looks just as good on the new philips recorder. Besides, HD-DVD is now dead, I only watch standard DVD's on it and both the toshiba and philips upscale to 1080p. Killed two birds with one stone. I really dont understand the ATSC tuner being only standard. I know the recorder cant play back HD at its max rez, but still, HD broadcast fed to it look WAY better than standard feeds, so why they didnt allow it to do HD and just down rez it for playback I do not know. Anyway, all in all I am happy with it so far. Its much easier to navigate and operate than my previous philipsHDRW720p.
post #1532 of 23903
Ok, now I'm getting upset with my 3576. The time shift buffer sucks on this one compared to the 720p. Actually from what I've seen so far, it dont have a true time shift buffer like the HDRW720p/17. You have to push stop twice to start recording, then you cant return to live without canceling whats in the buffer already. From what I've seen so far and been able to figure out, its not truly a time shift buffer that allows you to move forward and backward freely. On my old 720p, as soon as I tuned to EXt 2 where I have my Directv hooked, it began recording automatically and would hold 6 hours. That means if you started it up at 4pm, went to town then came home and started watching at 9pm, you could back all the way up to 4pm and skip around a forward and backward as you please with a simple touch of a button. Also, while you were surfing, it continued to record the actual program. Man if I can beat this I may send mine back and hook up my HDRW720p again. How disappointing
post #1533 of 23903
Thread Starter 
The 3576 doesn't autorecord like your old 720 or the new Magnavox H2160. It only has Pause Live TV, which you have to activate manually.
post #1534 of 23903
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

The 3576 doesn't autorecord like your old 720 or the new Magnavox H2160. It only has Pause Live TV, which you have to activate manually.

Darn, wish I would have known about the H2160 before I bought the 3576H. Oh well, I cant stand not having the auto buffer like my 720 had, I may buy the new H2160 and send the 3576H back

BTW, I usually dont do duplicate post, but I wanted to find out for sure what was going on with this new recorder. Obviously I misunderstood the way it works. I was under the impression it was exactly like the 720p but more advanced with HDMI and more features.
post #1535 of 23903
Quote:


The digital ATSC tuner for OTA is great! I even get to record and play the locals that broadcast in HD in 16:9 widescreen glory.

Wow, a huge thread. Can someone please confirm... these units can pass OTA HD w/o downrezzing to an HDTV right? ... Just can't record in HD right?
post #1536 of 23903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brajesh View Post

Wow, a huge thread. Can someone please confirm... these units can pass OTA HD w/o downrezzing to an HDTV right? ... Just can't record in HD right?

Yes, they pass HDTV thru their coax passthru... more info here if needed.
post #1537 of 23903
Thanks, but let me also ask another way... can these units be used in place of set-top OTA boxes or an HDTV's own ATSC tuner to receive and watch OTA hi-def signals in hi-def?
post #1538 of 23903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brajesh View Post

Thanks, but let me also ask another way... can these units be used in place of set-top OTA boxes or an HDTV's own ATSC tuner to receive and watch OTA hi-def signals in hi-def?

They only PASS HDTV, untouched, thru the coax connection, so your downstream HDTV with tuner can show a HDTV pic. Anything you want tuned or recorded with the 3575/76 will be downrezzed to 480i, as required by the SDTV DVD standard.

So, watching channels thru the 3575/76's tuner will be SDTV. Can be upconverted only, but still SDTV.
post #1539 of 23903
Thanks. Says SDTV tuner on the box, so that explains it. Too bad.
LL
post #1540 of 23903
Hello, I found this forum after purchase of a 3575H that got shipped back three weeks later when it started to lock up during playback and then ultimately would not power up at all.

Philips sent me, not a new 3575H as they specified, but a refurbished 3676H. Should I be happy with this?

My real issue though is that some, and just some, OTA-sourced 4:3 and 16:9 format material sent from the 76H (both real time and HDD recorded) fails to fill the screen on my 16:9 format television. The same material viewed thru the television tuner does fill the screen. The "Aspect Ratio" setting on the 76H is set to 16:9. What gives?

The product performs most functions well, if a bit slow at times - I think it's great. Thank you.
post #1541 of 23903
Thread Starter 
What other components in your system and how are they connected?
post #1542 of 23903
Quote:
Originally Posted by noVHS View Post

Hello, I found this forum after purchase of a 3575H that got shipped back three weeks later when it started to lock up during playback and then ultimately would not power up at all.

Philips sent me, not a new 3575H as they specified, but a refurbished 3676H. Should I be happy with this?

My real issue though is that some, and just some, OTA-sourced 4:3 and 16:9 format material sent from the 76H (both real time and HDD recorded) fails to fill the screen on my 16:9 format television. The same material viewed thru the television tuner does fill the screen. The "Aspect Ratio" setting on the 76H is set to 16:9. What gives?

First test: with the source material that does not fill the screen, can you use the aspect ratio control on the display to H-Fill (or justify) the image -- i.e. not zoom but stretch it horizontally.
post #1543 of 23903
well i must say, the knowledge here of this unit is certainly top notch. from browsing these threads (don't have time to read every page) i have a few questions/concerns before i buy this unit. i currently have the panasonic dmr-eh50 with the 100gb HD (though it may be only an 80gb, panasonic is a little sketchy on that, listing both). it has just the NTSC tuner and a IR blaster to change cable box channels. i've been very happy with this recorder, the only problem i have had with it is it doesn't like cheap disks (store or name brands) so i buy only taiyo yudin disks now and have a 100% burn rate.

i do most of my recordings in SP mode then highspeed dub the ones i want on dvd. this panasonic unit will high speed dub a 2hr in SP mode disc in about 14 minutes (1x-16x disc recording at 8x the units max record speed), and another 2 minutes to finalize which i can do within 5- 10 minutes or so of a scheduled recording. i saw earlier in one of the threads that this unit takes about 30 minutes to high speed dub and you can't finalize within 1 hour of a scheduled recording? if thats true that would drive me nuts waiting that long.

i have comcast digital cable (the whole works, movie channels, on demand etc) with standard digital boxes and 1 HD dual tuner dvr box hooked to my hitachi plasma. i have my panasonic dmr-eh50 hooked to 1 of the standard digital boxes with the IR blaster hooked up to change the cable box for scheduled recordings. i'm assuming this phillips and the magnavox model h2160 does not have an IR blaster for cable boxes? this could be a hassle if i connect it to a digital cable box and need to manually change the station on it before every scheduled recording.

right now i could hook it up without a cable box and get the current NTSC channels on my cable and use its tuner and therefore not needing the IR blaster. currently there are no OTA digital chanels in my area and none on my cable below the chennel 100 which requires the digital cable box to get. i'm assuming that come febuary though that the NTSC tuner in this unit is going to be 100% useless and since its comcast they will make it so the digital tuner is useless for the lower basic channels requiring me to hook it up to a digital cable box thus extorting even more money out of me. is this correct? or will the lower channels still be viewable without a cable box on any digital tuner, comcast is being very vague about this which is never a good sign.
post #1544 of 23903
Thread Starter 
phredmojo, just a couple of things that might help.

Yes, the 3576 won't Finalize if a timer rec program is due to start within 1 hour, but I just change the start time of that program and reset after Finalize, or I use one of my other 3575's. Altho Finalizing a 2-hr-SP dub takes only 2 minutes or so, the unit is programmed to ALLOW 1 hour for an almost empty disc, which takes MUCH longer to close than a full one.

Having another 3575/76 is good for another reason: they use the Philips +VR recording standard which doesn't play well with DVD-Video machines like Pio and Panny with UNFINALIZED discs. They're basically not interchangeable until Finalized.

I assume this might not be a desirable situation for a person who already uses a DVD-Video machine like yours?
post #1545 of 23903
i tend to Finalize my discs right away, so the compatability issue shouldn't be much of a problem
post #1546 of 23903
Thread Starter 
Then the only questions left are whether setting the 3576 for a timer rec program plus an "auto-tune" in the cable box is acceptable (I've read some boxes have "reminders" or settable "turn-on and tune times")? No IR blaster with these units.

As far as clear-QAM channels, I've read of some "law" that they have to have the locals in-the-clear for emergency info, but Comcast could do anything they want and think they can get away with, like packing FCC meetings with bodies to keep comments down, etc.

I assume you know there are no digital channels below 100 cuz you've scanned with a digital-tunered TV? If so, doesn't sound good for using a digital DVDR ahead of the box to pick off any clear-QAM?
post #1547 of 23903
Thread Starter 

They got "smart" this time... 300 remotes now available, $20.00!
post #1548 of 23903
Quote:
Originally Posted by phredmojo View Post

I'm assuming that come febuary though that the NTSC tuner in this unit is going to be 100% useless and since its comcast they will make it so the digital tuner is useless for the lower basic channels requiring me to hook it up to a digital cable box thus extorting even more money out of me. is this correct? or will the lower channels still be viewable without a cable box on any digital tuner, comcast is being very vague about this which is never a good sign.

The government mandated analog cutoff only applies to over-the-air.

As far as your cable company, it depends on what their plans are, but they are probably intentionally being vague so that you will upgrade to digital. Many areas are eventually going all digital (except for the lifeline basic locals) in order to reclaim the bandwith for new HD channels.

Some areas have said that they have no plans on ditching extended basic analog anytime soon, but it seems to me that this is mostly in the more rural areas. So even if they do eventually change, it should be much later than the average larger city/metro area.

If your cable company is definitely not being clear that they are going all-digital soon and being "vague" about it, I would just take that to mean that they really aren't planning on switching over anytime soon, because if they were, they'd certainly be sending out a bunch of warnings about it. They'd have to.
post #1549 of 23903
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Then the only questions left are whether setting the 3576 for a timer rec program plus an "auto-tune" in the cable box is acceptable (I've read some boxes have "reminders" or settable "turn-on and tune times")? No IR blaster with these units.

As far as clear-QAM channels, I've read of some "law" that they have to have the locals in-the-clear for emergency info, but Comcast could do anything they want and think they can get away with, like packing FCC meetings with bodies to keep comments down, etc.

I assume you know there are no digital channels below 100 cuz you've scanned with a digital-tunered TV? If so, doesn't sound good for using a digital DVDR ahead of the box to pick off any clear-QAM?

my tv digital tuner detects 8 chanels, but 7 of them have nothing on them
post #1550 of 23903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by phredmojo View Post

my tv digital tuner detects 8 chanels, but 7 of them have nothing on them

I'd have to guess that's what the 3576 would see also?
post #1551 of 23903
So, should I get the maggy or the philips? Is the h2160 less quality compared to the phillips?
post #1552 of 23903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJinNC View Post

So, should I get the maggy or the philips? Is the h2160 less quality compared to the phillips?

If you're talking about right now, I guess it would be the 3576 since it's a known commodity.

The 3576's Seagate HDD has a 5-yr warranty (to original purchaser), while the Mag's Hitachi HDD has a 3-yr warranty, but the Maggy will be recording all the time???

Both machines operate exactly alike, except for the 6-hr "autorecord" plus the Mag can record digital CC, which might be an important feature for some... the 3576 can't record digital CC. The Mag also has an added S-Video input in the front panel.

One Mag user has reported (briefly) that everything is A-OK on his Mag.
post #1553 of 23903
wajo, Kelson,

Regarding the lack of H-fill on television screen for some 76H material...

My system is simply OTA signal coax to 76H and pass thru to Sony LCD TV. I found *some* 76H-sourced material will not fill the screen no matter what controls are diddled on either unit - ONLY when using Component output. The HDMI output and television tuner provide the full picture without zoom. This issue seems to be specific to two Denver stations, must be a function of their broadcast specs combined with some peculiarities of the Component path related to the recorder or TV set.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
post #1554 of 23903
Thread Starter 
In my system, with the 3575 set for 16:9 Wide and my 1080p LCD set for "Wide", I get full, natural WS from Composite Y/W/R OR HDMI connections from a true-WS channel/source (digital channels only).

If you get the digital TNT channel, it has a perfect-circle logo that is great for showing source aspect and viewed or recorded aspect.
post #1555 of 23903
I have a similar experience with a 4:3 screen only with network HD. I live in NYC, and it seems that the networks broadcast in 4:3, and although my TV is set to 16:9 (stretch), the network HDs come in 4:3 with black bars. I don't know why they broadcast a 4:3 image, but I assumed that you can't "stretch" an HD signal and still retain an HD picture. All the SDs "obey the TV" and come in stretched 16:9.
post #1556 of 23903
You're not getting an HD picture off the Philips 75 and 76 anyway.
post #1557 of 23903
Anyone know where I can find replacement parts for my DVDR3576H/37? I have a broken DVD door hinge. I think the entire front panel will need replacing.
post #1558 of 23903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmilin View Post

Anyone know where I can find replacement parts for my DVDR3576H/37? I have a broken DVD door hinge. I think the entire front panel will need replacing.

Click the #1 link in my signature, then the "Support" link in the 3576 line.

If you can't see an obviously cracked or broken part, maybe it just got off its track inside? Might be worth a check. A few other people with diff. units had doors off kilter and fixed them pretty easily themselves. You might be lucky too?
post #1559 of 23903
New member so please be gentle :-)

I bought a 3576 at Sam's a couple of months ago to replace an ILO DVR that crapped out. I like it a lot and happened to be at a Walmart that was clearing these out so I picked up another one ($90!!!). I set up both in the same area as we often record 2 shows at the same time. The only problem I have is that the two recorders both respond to either of the two remotes.

Is there a way to set one up so that I can program these seperately without covering up the IR port on one?

I apologise if this has been covered in this thread before, but after reading a few pages my tired old eyes started to get fuzzy :-)

Thanks!
post #1560 of 23903
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesman48327 View Post

New member so please be gentle :-)

I bought a 3576 at Sam's a couple of months ago to replace an ILO DVR that crapped out. I like it a lot and happened to be at a Walmart that was clearing these out so I picked up another one ($90!!!). I set up both in the same area as we often record 2 shows at the same time. The only problem I have is that the two recorders both respond to either of the two remotes.

Is there a way to set one up so that I can program these seperately without covering up the IR port on one?

I apologise if this has been covered in this thread before, but after reading a few pages my tired old eyes started to get fuzzy :-)

We did some testing for people with multiple units. Mine were with the barrel of a pen glued over the diode on the end... pretty ugly, but it worked by narrowing the angles of operation, esp. when I tried the angled tip of a pen (where the ink refill poked out)! I could then have ~3-4 feet of side separation and operate just one unit with some care in aiming.

One person suggested an infrared polarized filter so you could just turn the remote from horiz. to vertical from one unit to the other? Finding such a filter at a reasonable price just for testing proved to be a problem when I explored this.

I also ran two units for awhile by turning on the first unit I wanted to play with manually, then pressing the remote's on button alternated units on and off. However, that only worked when the "other" unit wasn't recording a timer program, when it also had to be on.

Your options are limited, but you could try the simplest test... separate the units as far as possible up/dn and side-to-side?

Even a universal remote would turn both on cuz I don't believe you can make it unit-specific... no way to force a separate code?

For other people still looking, I'm thinking the new Magnavox H2160MW9 at Walmart ($237) might be a great 2nd unit since it has the same guts as the 3576 and operates exactly the same way, but it has a diff. remote. No one has tried that combo yet so not absolutely sure they'll have diff. remote codes.
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