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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 708

post #21211 of 25403
Sounds like poor build quality to me. I have some 40+ year old electronics that continue to work without a hitch. (Of course they're powered by squirrels....) wink.gif
post #21212 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrNews View Post

Sounds like poor build quality to me. I have some 40+ year old electronics that continue to work without a hitch. (Of course they're powered by squirrels....) wink.gif

Welcome to the age of planned obsolesence.
post #21213 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by grounder View Post

In case someone runs into the following problem : NO FRONT PANEL DISPLAY - NO POWER ON - NO RESPONSE - Resets don't work.
Model: MDR515 - 8 months old
Did the checks and recommendations several times (unplug for long time /plug, Soft reset, etc.). No change.
Opened cover and check PS fuse. Good.
Checked PS voltages. Bad. Something loading supply.
Disconnected one load at a time. (Hard drive - nope, Circuit boards-nope)
Carefully disconnect two flat ribbons for DVD. Bingo. Unit powered up. Everything looked good (less DVD smile.gif)
Checked DVD drive motor, optics, etc. for short. Nothing. No jammed mechanisms Figured something on CCA was bad.
Decided just for the heck of it to reconnect the drive one ribbon at at time and power on after each.
What do you know powered up and worked perfectly
Put back together and everything works
Will monitor. Might be a sign of a bigger or pending permanent failure.

just a guess, but aside from the power supply main fuse, sounds like a regulator shut down due to a possible overcurrent situation. a particular regulator might be powering something on the DVD unit, as well as on the main or other PCBs. removing the DVD startup load might have been sufficient to ' right ' the shutdown condition, although it would still seem that something is marginal.

i would still confirm the power supply's main fuse. if the fuse has any conductivity weakness, it might indeed actually be intermittent. i've had fuses become ' maybe ' fuses in the past, simply based on load level.

also, the main power supply is a switcher. these supplies rely essentially on an oscillator circuit in order to run. with an initial heavy load on startup, the oscillator might not start, rendering all supply voltages dead. starting up with a lighter load, the oscillator might then start and continue to run after connecting things one by one... this also would indicate something being marginal, though.

rgds,
ron g
post #21214 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by grounder View Post

In case someone runs into the following problem : NO FRONT PANEL DISPLAY - NO POWER ON - NO RESPONSE - Resets don't work.
Model: MDR515 - 8 months old
Did the checks and recommendations several times (unplug for long time /plug, Soft reset, etc.). No change.
Opened cover and check PS fuse. Good..

I have experienced the dead unit syndrome (NO FRONT PANEL DISPLAY - NO POWER ON - NO RESPONSE - Resets don't work) on three different 515’s and one 2160. The soft reset did not work for me (and yes, I waited the prescribed time to "drain" each unit). In each instance, as a last resort, I opened the case and (with the unit plugged in) pressed the reset button on the circuit board. In each case the units came back to life instantly.

From my own experience, I maintain that pressing the circuit board reset switch does not replicate the soft reset procedure.
post #21215 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by grounder View Post

Decided just for the heck of it to reconnect the drive one ribbon at at time and power on after each.
What do you know powered up and worked perfectly
Put back together and everything works
Will monitor. Might be a sign of a bigger or pending permanent failure.

I call that a typical electronic overdrive... Do you have the unit connect to an UPS?
post #21216 of 25403
Has anyone done a critical going over of the new manual(s), and seen (aside from an apparently new tuner) anything different from the 513s/515s. (Yeah, I know the third new unit has a larger drive.)
post #21217 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Has anyone done a critical going over of the new manual(s), and seen (aside from an apparently new tuner) anything different from the 513s/515s. (Yeah, I know the third new unit has a larger drive.)

Once I saw the TV/DTV button and the SD storage I sort of gave up interest. I don't recall seeing PBS mentioned though. Honestly, I look at wajo's comments and think he has pretty well covered the important parts. Until someone gets a unit we won't really know. I wonder about the pricing and outlets, but a bigger HD is no big deal. Having a unit (period) is quite an important step in the right direction. I hope Funai isn't sorry if sales don't meet expectations.

Nobody else has provided a viable alternative so far.
post #21218 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

....but a bigger HD is no big deal. Having a unit (period) is quite an important step in the right direction. I hope Funai isn't sorry if sales don't meet expectations.



True. Unless they improve the navigation in the HDD or at least provide thumbnails, a larger drive will only make things worse.
post #21219 of 25403
The bigger HDD is just a temptation to let stuff stack up, and then you have to spend a coupla weekends editing/dubbing. Or the drive dies, and you've lost an entire season of recording. eek.gif
post #21220 of 25403
Thread Starter 

I guess Funai got tired of hearing from all the Tim-the-Tool-Man "More Power" guys here who kept asking how big a drive they could install, why was it limited to 500GB, and made some "Wishes" (including "keep making the 515"!)?

 

So they say, "Your wish is my command" and we start wishing for "Less Power"!? biggrin.gif

post #21221 of 25403
The newest of my 5 Funais, a 6 month old refurb V513 connected to BHN and used for timer recording off both the cable box via L2 and via QAM, froze up more than once in recent weeks, requiring soft reset each time. Because of that, and because its timers will only tune NBC on a random basis (confusing between 8.1 and 104.6, and getting only black when wrong), I did the DTV-S 0x2C (from 0x2B) upgrade some hours ago. Unlike the V upgrade, nothing apparent in settings was changed. Even the timers survived. I did a channels rescan anyway. A couple of 1-2 minute test recordings afterward of NBC worked, so I'm hopeful it's better, both for timer recording NBC, and ending the freezes.
post #21222 of 25403
Long time no posting here. My guess about the 1TB hard drive is because 500GB is now the norm and will soon be overtaken by the 1TB as the norm, then a few months later by the 2TB. Hard drive sizes are beginning to grow pretty quickly. 5TB drives are already showing up. Try to find a 500GB IDE drive for the 3575/3576 or 2160/2160A. If you can find one, it is more than double the price from a few years ago when us old timers were upgrading. So, even though the newer recorders use SATA drives, cost is certainly a factor in going with the larger hard drive now.

I agree that a 1TB hard drive is pretty much overkill, although I have two recorders with 500GB hard drives with about 50 hours left on each (SP recording speed) that I haven't even started watching yet, so having some more room might be beneficial. However, filling up a 1TB hard drive with over 400 hours of recordings at SP recording speed would end up with you deleting things because there is just no time to watch them (although you could dub to DVD for watching years from now if you ever get around to it). Fortunately, I still have the 160GB drives that I replaced with 500GB drives that I can swap out if I need to add more recordings before I watch, dub, or delete what I already have recorded.
post #21223 of 25403
Thread Starter 

The 2160A was the first Mag to use a SATA HDD.

post #21224 of 25403
Good luck with the NBC prob. The firmware fix didn't help me. I've given up trying to get the NBC regular transmission because it is hit and miss. I've resigned myself to recording the oddball sd version coming through the cable. Affects both my Vizio TV and my 515.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

The newest of my 5 Funais, a 6 month old refurb V513 connected to BHN and used for timer recording off both the cable box via L2 and via QAM, froze up more than once in recent weeks, requiring soft reset each time. Because of that, and because its timers will only tune NBC on a random basis (confusing between 8.1 and 104.6, and getting only black when wrong), I did the DTV-S 0x2C (from 0x2B) upgrade some hours ago. Unlike the V upgrade, nothing apparent in settings was changed. Even the timers survived. I did a channels rescan anyway. A couple of 1-2 minute test recordings afterward of NBC worked, so I'm hopeful it's better, both for timer recording NBC, and ending the freezes.
post #21225 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGA$$TV View Post

Good luck with the NBC prob. The firmware fix didn't help me. I've given up trying to get the NBC regular transmission because it is hit and miss. I've resigned myself to recording the oddball sd version coming through the cable. Affects both my Vizio TV and my 515.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

The newest of my 5 Funais, a 6 month old refurb V513 connected to BHN and used for timer recording off both the cable box via L2 and via QAM, froze up more than once in recent weeks, requiring soft reset each time. Because of that, and because its timers will only tune NBC on a random basis (confusing between 8.1 and 104.6, and getting only black when wrong), I did the DTV-S 0x2C (from 0x2B) upgrade some hours ago. Unlike the V upgrade, nothing apparent in settings was changed. Even the timers survived. I did a channels rescan anyway. A couple of 1-2 minute test recordings afterward of NBC worked, so I'm hopeful it's better, both for timer recording NBC, and ending the freezes.

 

Several people have solved the high-low DTV channel interference problem by deleting one of them, usually the lower-numbered one, as described here.

 

You shouldn't use CH+/- to tune to a DTV channel you want to delete. Use direct-entry instead to get that ch. # in the Manual Channel Preset menu


Edited by wajo - 8/3/12 at 12:53pm
post #21226 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

ISo they say, "Your wish is my command" and we start wishing for "Less Power"!? biggrin.gif




No, but a little more control would be nice! wink.gif
post #21227 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ti-triodes View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

So they say, "Your wish is my command" and we start wishing for "Less Power"!? biggrin.gif

No, but a little more control would be nice! wink.gif

 

"Control"? Do you have any units with timer/show pre-titling and day of week, along with the usual "thumbnails" (index pics)... 515 or 2160A/513 with SuperFW 727V? The new units will have these.


Edited by wajo - 8/3/12 at 4:33pm
post #21228 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Several people have solved the high-low DTV channel interference problem by deleting one of them, usually the lower-numbered one, as described here.

You shouldn't use CH+/- to tune to a DTV channel you want to delete. Use direct-entry instead to get that ch. # in the Manual Channel Preset menu
Using that method I had no problem getting DTV 8 selected and the yellow highlight onto delete, but it refused to acknowledge OK with yellow on delete. I've tried this before on more than one of my Funais, and don't remember ever being able to delete a channel it thinks it's supposed to be able to tune. I'll have to try again after I find time to have it scan with the cable disconnected and scan again after reconnecting after letting it scan past 8. It takes about 13-14 minutes to scan analog/QAM completely here, plus time to Jerry rig a way to reliably reconnect the cable after 8 but before 16 while DTV scanning.
post #21229 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Several people have solved the high-low DTV channel interference problem by deleting one of them, usually the lower-numbered one, as described here.

You shouldn't use CH+/- to tune to a DTV channel you want to delete. Use direct-entry instead to get that ch. # in the Manual Channel Preset menu
Using that method I had no problem getting DTV 8 selected and the yellow highlight onto delete, but it refused to acknowledge OK with yellow on delete. I've tried this before on more than one of my Funais, and don't remember ever being able to delete a channel it thinks it's supposed to be able to tune. I'll have to try again after I find time to have it scan with the cable disconnected and scan again after reconnecting after letting it scan past 8. It takes about 13-14 minutes to scan analog/QAM completely here, plus time to Jerry rig a way to reliably reconnect the cable after 8 but before 16 while DTV scanning.

 

As you prob. found, it can take a fair amount of time for the tuner to fully "settle in" before you can click the Delete box, then it can also ake a fair amount of time before the checkmark actually moves from Add to Delete. It's definitely not even close to an instantaneous process.


Edited by wajo - 8/4/12 at 7:05am
post #21230 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

As you prob. found, it can take a fair amount of time for the tuner to fully "settle in" before you can click the Delete box, then it can also ake a fair amount of time before the checkmark actually moves from Add to Delete. It's definitely not an instantaneous proicess.
I put it on 8, left it more than 5 minutes with yellow on delete, then variously tapped OK with no result, and finally held down OK more than a minute, also with no result.

The info at rabbitears.info doesn't map to that at map your own solution for WFLA. It uses the word "physical", but not the word "virtual". Does it mean I need to type in 7.3 when I want 8.1? That just gets me an all black recording. So do 8.3 & 7.1. Typing in 8.1 gets a recording of BHN's SD rendition of the actual HD channel. Actually right now, now matter what I try I can't even tune the HD channel with either direct entry or +/- . Before I went to bed I could. Maybe this has to do with my attempts to delete DTV 8? Maybe it was deleted in fact, just not in the display?

Sure would be nice if these digital tuners were like every other digital tuner I've used, allowing to set a skip on every undesired channel.
post #21231 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

As you prob. found, it can take a fair amount of time for the tuner to fully "settle in" before you can click the Delete box, then it can also ake a fair amount of time before the checkmark actually moves from Add to Delete. It's definitely not an instantaneous proicess.
I put it on 8, left it more than 5 minutes with yellow on delete, then variously tapped OK with no result, and finally held down OK more than a minute, also with no result.

The info at rabbitears.info doesn't map to that at map your own solution for WFLA. It uses the word "physical", but not the word "virtual". Does it mean I need to type in 7.3 when I want 8.1? That just gets me an all black recording. So do 8.3 & 7.1. Typing in 8.1 gets a recording of BHN's SD rendition of the actual HD channel. Actually right now, now matter what I try I can't even tune the HD channel with either direct entry or +/- . Before I went to bed I could. Maybe this has to do with my attempts to delete DTV 8? Maybe it was deleted in fact, just not in the display?

Sure would be nice if these digital tuners were like every other digital tuner I've used, allowing to set a skip on every undesired channel.

 

I think this problem exposed some errors in my help file.

 

My ref. to Rabbitears.info should have mentioned those ch. #s were OTA/antenna channels, so they only give you an idea of what their "normal" broadcast channel assignments look like. The "Display" channel is the "Virtual" channel so part of my change to the help file will include the correct word.

 

Here are some other pieces of info spec. on WFLA that might help figure out what's going on:

 

1. Here's a Wiki article showing NBC on Digital 7 and Virtual 8 broadcast channels.

 

2. Here's a rabbitears page on channel changes, where WFLA shows ch. 7 and 8 broadcast with a request to use ch. 14 here. WTH!

 

3. Here's a Sliicon Dust page where you can research WFLA for your specific Zip Code and cableco (cable lineup). This is prob. the best source to check since your on cable? Depending on your cableco (which you select after entering your Zip), WFLA shows TWO DTV channels (in the cable lineup I selected of the 3 there): 108-2008 and 104-2607. It's possible that "mysterious" 104 could be interfering with 108 from the get-go (or vice versa)??? What a mess!

 

In the end, I would expect your channel scan starting above ch. 8 would catch both DTV 104 and 108, one of which might be the "right" one for tuning and recording. You'd only have to test both for a timer rec with the other one Deleted (if you can get it to take) to see which one gets the right content???

 

If DTV 104 and 108 "clash", the scan might not memorize either of them? You'd have to manually enter one using direct entry in the Manual menu, I suppose.

 

I hope all this crapola helps! biggrin.gif

post #21232 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

If DTV 104 and 108 "clash", the scan might not memorize either of them? You'd have to manually enter one using direct entry in the Manual menu, I suppose.
It let me delete 108, which only has SD channels I never want. Whether it might help time will tell, but it has only 2 VCs, neither of which appear to be related to WFLA. Sometimes 104 scans 6 VCs, sometimes 4. When 6, I get WFLA HD on 104.6, but when 4, and I punch in 104.6, it skips back to 104.1, which is WEDU HD.

I just did another full BHN scan with cable connected, and WFLA HD is tunable on 8.1 instead of 104.6 again. WTTA HD still cannot be directly reached, only tunable via +/-, and thus not timer recordable.

Don't be confused about how I get what I get. I write according to context of either of two locations, one on BHN, the other OTA, the latter of which also has BUD inputs on L1 & L2. The Funai tuning problems are all QAM at the BHN location, which uses my newest of my 5 Funais, a refurb v513. ATSC works fine, other than missing essential convenience features like channel return and skip unwanted channels. At either location, analog I almost never tune, and never record.
post #21233 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

The 2160A was the first Mag to use a SATA HDD.

Right you are, of course! Just another hint at my, hopefully, very slow descent into dementia.

Just to show how you can get jammed up not watching everything you have recorded, on my two almost full 500GB drives, one has titles going back to October 2010 and the other has titles going back to November 2010. Really have to start watching these so I have room to add more.
post #21234 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

I just did another full BHN scan with cable connected, and WFLA HD is tunable on 8.1 instead of 104.6 again. WTTA HD still cannot be directly reached, only tunable via +/-, and thus not timer recordable.

 

CH+/- memory is only a convenience for surfing. Channels don't have to be in CH+/- memory to timer record, but they can't be a channel that tuning interference causes it to disappear. Entering a non-memorized channel in the timer menu, by direct entry, should record that specific channel, no matter the "winding path" it takes to get there via CH+/-, i.e., it will be a "direct" physical channel so if there's content on that physical channel, it should record it.


Edited by wajo - 8/4/12 at 11:05am
post #21235 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

CH+/- memory is only a convenience for surfing. Channels don't have to be in CH+/- memory to timer record, but they can't be a channel that tuning interference causes it to disappear. Entering a non-memorized channel in the timer menu, by direct entry, should record that specific channel, no matter the "winding path" it takes to get there via CH+/-, i.e., it will be a "direct" physical channel so if there's content on that physical channel, it should record it.
BHN's WTTA SD rendition of WTTA HD and the real WTTA HD both display 38.1 when tuned. BHN's WFLA SD rendition of WFLA HD and the real WFLA HD both display 8.1 when tuned. Which between rendition and genuine I get by directly entering 8.1 or 38.1 varies according to unobservable conditions like the position of the moon, what Michelle Obama had for breakfast, or something else equally random and unrelated. When the timer makes the selection, it's at least as likely to get nothing at all as it is to get the same program it would get if the source was instead from OTA ATSC input. The closest thing there is to a reliable way to timer record WFLA HD using a Funai is to tune it in, then leave the machine turned on to it at least until the timer event is complete. Until a few months ago, WFLA HD could be as reliably QAM tuned and recorded as WEDU HD, WTVT HD, WTSP HD, WMOR HD, WPIX HD, WTOG HD or WFTS HD, with WTTA HD being the only exception until that time.
post #21236 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

CH+/- memory is only a convenience for surfing. Channels don't have to be in CH+/- memory to timer record, but they can't be a channel that tuning interference causes it to disappear. Entering a non-memorized channel in the timer menu, by direct entry, should record that specific channel, no matter the "winding path" it takes to get there via CH+/-, i.e., it will be a "direct" physical channel so if there's content on that physical channel, it should record it.
BHN's WTTA SD rendition of WTTA HD and the real WTTA HD both display 38.1 when tuned. BHN's WFLA SD rendition of WFLA HD and the real WFLA HD both display 8.1 when tuned. Which between rendition and genuine I get by directly entering 8.1 or 38.1 varies according to unobservable conditions like the position of the moon, what Michelle Obama had for breakfast, or something else equally random and unrelated. When the timer makes the selection, it's at least as likely to get nothing at all as it is to get the same program it would get if the source was instead from OTA ATSC input. The closest thing there is to a reliable way to timer record WFLA HD using a Funai is to tune it in, then leave the machine turned on to it at least until the timer event is complete. Until a few months ago, WFLA HD could be as reliably QAM tuned and recorded as WEDU HD, WTVT HD, WTSP HD, WMOR HD, WPIX HD, WTOG HD or WFTS HD, with WTTA HD being the only exception until that time.

 

Any chance they could have gone to Switched Digital Video (SDV) for those channels?

post #21237 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Any chance they could have gone to Switched Digital Video (SDV) for those channels?
I would expect not. I know no way to check directly whether a channel is SDV or not, but those that I know are are all tunable only with a cable box, which will goto sleep after three hours if no remote buttons get pushed in that period. Also WTTA HD and WFLA HD are part of BHN's "(home of) free HD", local OTA channels which IIRC cannot require a cable box to tune according to FCC rules.
post #21238 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Any chance they could have gone to Switched Digital Video (SDV) for those channels?
I would expect not. I know no way to check directly whether a channel is SDV or not, but those that I know are are all tunable only with a cable box, which will goto sleep after three hours if no remote buttons get pushed in that period. Also WTTA HD and WFLA HD are part of BHN's "(home of) free HD", local OTA channels which IIRC cannot require a cable box to tune according to FCC rules.

Many cable boxes have a menu where one may deactivate the "go to sleep mode." I leave my Comcast Motorola DCX3200 and DCT700 cable boxes "on" 24/7. These are almost always tuned to TCM HD (784) and TCM SD (501).
post #21239 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo View Post

Many cable boxes have a menu where one may deactivate the "go to sleep mode." I leave my Comcast Motorola DCX3200 and DCT700 cable boxes "on" 24/7. These are almost always tuned to TCM HD (784) and TCM SD (501).
I'd venture a guess all digital cable boxes have that. On all BHN boxes I've tried, disabling sleep mode has had no effect on SDV channels. With sleep mode enabled they have a screen saver image dancing on the screen in save mode, but after 3 hours with no remote key presses on SDV it just goes quiet and black regardless of saver setting.
post #21240 of 25403
confused.gif
I have a MDR-515 that was hit with a lightning strike early last month. I've tried the soft reset and even opened the unit and tried pushing the reset button with no luck. Was wondering what the chances are that the fuse may have stopped the "major damage" and that may be all I need to replace? Also, I have 2 additional units -- (one 513 & one 515) was wondering how hard it would be and if it would work to remove the hard drive and put in in one of the other units so I can burn off the contents. Any help would be appreciated, really enjoy your forum and in particular this thread.

Thanks, Big Ronnie
biggrin.gif
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