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Related Reviews
Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 774
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- gastrof
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I've got a question about my 2160. When I hook the cable up to it and do a channel scan, I don't get any channels. However, I can hook the cable up to other devices and get channels, so I know there's a signal there. Is there something I can do to get channels with the 2160? Thanks.
Are you seeing ANYTHING from the 2160 on the TV screen?
How is the 2160 feeding into the TV?
Have you had the machine working prior to this?
Why did you decide to do a channel scan now?
We need more info.
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Yes, the other features of the 2160 have worked fine since 2009. It's hooked up via RCA cables. I decided to do a channel scan now so that I could record TV shows.
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...[ my brand new 537]... The color seemed weak, dull, and with less sharpness in comparison to my 515 (that I've had for a year and a half).
I finally had time to look into the picture problem further. All HDMI settings are the same between the units (1080P and progressive on, color RGB, and normal). I switched around HDMI cables about 5 times (and brought the HDMI cable for my 3575 into the mix). And I switched between the different input HDMI ports on my Samsung TV about 5 times. I also swapped the coax inputs to the 537 and the 515. This is what I found: None of the HDMI cables or the coax swap has anything to do with it. One of the HDMI in's on the TV yields a result that I can't make sense of. The 537 gets the substandard picture whenever it is connected to the #1 input on my TV - the one labeled HDMI/DVI (#1). But if I connect the 515 to this HDMI input port, it works perfect (which is just below quality of the TV tuner alone). Connect the 537 to another HDMI input on the TV - HDMI (#2) and it works much better. Almost (yes almost) as good as the 515. The difference is about the same amount as the difference between the TV tuner and the 515 tuner. The TV is best, then the 515, then the 537. The 537 is ok but with countless A - B tests, depending on what's being shown, I can tell a slight difference between its picture and the 515's picture. Some things show no difference, like supremely colored cartoons. But the Oscars (I wasn't going to watch any of it but it's perfect for this kind of test) has spots the reveal a difference. The color on the 537 is ever so slightly duller but nothing like what (as bad as) it is when it (the 537) is connected to the HMDI/DVI (#1) port (which the 515 works great with). Since none of this make any sense, I've spent HOURS shutting everything off, switching, reconnecting, and retesting, and the result is always the same.
Also, the 537 does not keep it's digital channel when shut off and restarted. It has been restarting on channel 24.1 which happens to be nothing. And when I enter 7.1, it goes to channel 7.0 (many times have I repeated this). So I have to go up a channel to get 7.1. If I enter 7.1 when it's on 7.1, it stays there. But if I'm on 8.1 (or anything else) and I enter 7.1, it goes to 7.0 (which is ABC but a lower quality picture). I haven't set the channels on the 515 lately and it doesn't have 7.0, so perhaps this 7.0 version of ABC is new.
So - I'm taking the 537 back to Walmart and ordering a new one online right now. Crazy.
Last Friday, I returned the first new 537 and was lucky enough to have the "replacement" 537 I ordered to have arrived on the same day. ... The newest 537 has the same problems as the one I returned! Damn! I don't really care about the digital changing channel 7 problem but the picture isn't quite as good as on my 515 (and of course the picture is bad when hooked up to the TV's HDMI/DVI (#1) input port so I have to put it on one of the other three of my TV's HDMI input ports). The resulting picture is good but could be better. The 515, for example, has slightly better blacks (the degree seems to vary by program) and therefore more contrast. I found it interesting that subsequent to my earlier post, there was discussion on blackness and the need to "calibrate." But what is there to calibrate? My TV has settings I'd rather not change but the color on the 537 can't be "calibrated" can it?
I've been using the brand newest 537 this week, ironically, to record analog sports games (ESPN2 and Fox Sports) and I've watched four recorded games the last two nights. Recording the analog channels has gone as it should and tonight I finally had time to compare (A-B) the newest 537 and my 515 and as I said I got the same results as I did with the first new 537. Then I switched to analog (DTV/TV button) and all the analog channels suddenly have massive static - both picture and sound are mostly static. Analog TV was working great yesterday - I recorded and watched two games. Now, overnight, analog is completely screwed. DAMN. (Any known reports of this?)
So it appears that I'll have to return this 537 too. I might have decided just to accept the slightly less than expected digital-channel picture. It is still good. Does anyone else have a 515 and a 537 that can do a serious comparison of pictures? I notice when I change digital channels on the 537, that the screen usually goes all dull black, then all gray, then dull black again before the next channel displays. I mention this because on the 515 when I change digital channels, those intermittent blank dark screens are noticeably darker than on the 537. Thanks in advance to anyone who can comment about anything.
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The composite (RCA) connections do not feed a signal to the internal tuner. That's why there are no channels found with a channel scan.
The channel scan requires a coax cable connection from an antenna or a cable company raw coax cable feed. With the cable company raw coax cable feed a channel scan will find only NTSC analog channels and/or (non-scrambled) clear QAM digital cable channels.
If the cable company coax cable feed is from a converter box or DTA a channel scan will find only one analog channel, the device's analog output channel, number 3 (or 4).
- Manocheese
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The composite (RCA) connections do not feed a signal to the internal tuner. That's why there are no channels found with a channel scan.
The channel scan requires a coax cable connection from an antenna or a cable company raw coax cable feed. With the cable company raw coax cable feed a channel scan will find only NTSC analog channels and/or (non-scrambled) clear QAM digital cable channels.
If the cable company coax cable feed is from a converter box or DTA a channel scan will find only one analog channel, the device's analog output channel, number 3 (or 4).
I should clarify what I meant. The RCA cables are only being used to send the 2160's picture to the TV. The actual cable signal is coming from a coax cable. When I hook the coax cable up to other devices like an HDTV, I get channels.
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I only programmed to record 5 minutes and when I turned the 537 back on, the analog channels are ok again (the static went away).
Lose one, win one (but the static is unlikely to be a one-time occurrence). Shoot.
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I understand the $8 per outlet (which I agree is ridiculous). But I thought we were talking about DVR replacements. A comcast DVR is still $27/month when all is said and done. That's why I was surprised at the $8 figure being batted around.
I'm cheap too. I'm not advocating spending $27/month on a cable DVR. I'm advocating using a cable card tuner and getting full HD recordings, full guide and schedule, limitless recording space, gorgeous user interface, integration with netflix and hulu and your personal music/photo/video library, easy expandability to every screen in your house, and 4 tuners. So unlike the maggie, no more manual timers required, no more crappy SD picture, no clunky editing, no limited recording space, no having to watch the same channel you're recording (assuming you use a cable box). Just seems like a better, cheaper solution. Not cheaper than $35, but still pretty cheap, $100 maybe.

Because I'm cheap and can't resist a bargain, I bought a WD $35 500GB SATA refurb drive form NewEgg with free shipping. I confess that it's an unauthorized drive (AA rather than AV) so we'll see how it works out. Anyway installation in my 2160A was easy thanks to the clear instructions in this great thread and for now the Maggie is working well.
JL
Pace, I wasn't responding to your posting but instead was giving a shout-out to the members of this super forum whose great contributions greatly facilitated my installation.
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I decided to program a recording of channel 7.1 to make sure that 7.1 ABC would be recorded and not 7.0 ABC (since I can't get to 7.1 by entering 7.1, only can get there by moving up or down to 7.1). ......... And the result: 7.0 got recorded instead (which is an inferior digital broadcast) so apparently, until 7.0 is stopped being fed in (by Cox I guess), I can't record 7.1 with my 537.
I only programmed to record 5 minutes and when I turned the 537 back on, the analog channels are ok again (the static went away).
Lose one, win one (but the static is unlikely to be a one-time occurrence). Shoot.
- wajo
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I decided to program a recording of channel 7.1 to make sure that 7.1 ABC would be recorded and not 7.0 ABC (since I can't get to 7.1 by entering 7.1, only can get there by moving up or down to 7.1). ......... And the result: 7.0 got recorded instead (which is an inferior digital broadcast) so apparently, until 7.0 is stopped being fed in (by Cox I guess), I can't record 7.1 with my 537.
I only programmed to record 5 minutes and when I turned the 537 back on, the analog channels are ok again (the static went away).
Lose one, win one (but the static is unlikely to be a one-time occurrence). Shoot.
dweezil: I don't remember all that went on with this either, but if you have an analog ch. 7, have you tried deleting that analog channel and see if that might have been interfering with digital 7.1 etc.?
EDIT: If you have ANY analog channels, you should not only delete analog ch. 7 but also check EVERY analog channel for the same network, channel call sign and content as your digital ch. 7 channel(s)/subchannel(s). If ANY duplicates ANYWHERE in the analog tuner, delete those analog channels also.
Edited by wajo - 3/7/13 at 10:24am
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All color has gone black and white including all screens including ones that are usually blue are all now black and white. The recorded items also play black and white as well as the channels tuned in through the DVD player.
Has anyone ran into this? If so any fix or time to get a newer model? It is not the TV.
Thanks for all the help.
Gohokiez
Thanks to all that replied. I can always count on those here at AVS forms. It is a bad S-video cable. tested using a yellow RCA cord and that did the trick. will replace the S-video cord. Maybe a better TV down the road.
Thanks again!!!!
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The composite (RCA) connections do not feed a signal to the internal tuner. That's why there are no channels found with a channel scan.
The channel scan requires a coax cable connection from an antenna or a cable company raw coax cable feed. With the cable company raw coax cable feed a channel scan will find only NTSC analog channels and/or (non-scrambled) clear QAM digital cable channels.
If the cable company coax cable feed is from a converter box or DTA a channel scan will find only one analog channel, the device's analog output channel, number 3 (or 4).
I should clarify what I meant. The RCA cables are only being used to send the 2160's picture to the TV. The actual cable signal is coming from a coax cable. When I hook the coax cable up to other devices like an HDTV, I get channels.
And what source do you have your recorder set to get input from? Is it set on A/V inputs, or one of its tuners?
Also, is it set for digital TV, or analog?
Not to be unkind, but do you have your owner's manual there?
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It looks like $200 for either to work with cable not OTA. I spoke with Comcast, they are OK with the idea, will provide a no charge cable card. Now that I've upgraded I could never go back hence the disappointment with the 533's SD limitation.
BTW Comcast confirmed that most everything they are sending me is scrambled.
Good luck with the cable card, just remember for Crapcast there's no free charge/cost policy, but maybe this time they honor thier word.
There aren't new TVs with S-Video input.

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It's set to get input from the tuners. Switching between analog and digital doesn't make a difference. I've checked the manual.
I appreciate your attempts to help, but I don't think the way I hooked things up is the problem. When I hook up a 537 in the exact same way, I get channels.
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dweezil: I don't remember all that went on with this either, but if you have an analog ch. 7, have you tried deleting that analog channel and see if that might have been interfering with digital 7.1 etc.?
EDIT: If you have ANY analog channels, you should not only delete analog ch. 7 but also check EVERY analog channel for the same network, channel call sign and content as your digital ch. 7 channel(s)/subchannel(s). If ANY duplicates ANYWHERE in the analog tuner, delete those analog channels also.
wajo - I deleted analog channel 7 but after that I can no longer get the digital 7 either. After I restored analog 7, I can't get digital 7 back still. Actually, digital channel 7 is on the digital channel list, it's just a blank picture though (I think there's only one blank channel 7 so maybe that's progress). I'm rescanning now as I'm writing this.
The first time I switched to analog (and after playing around in digital channel setup), the analog video/audio went static on me again. I shut off and then back on and the static went away on analog as I now expect. I tried to repeat the sequence to see if I could reproduce the actions that sent analog to static and I couldn't.
Ok, now the channel scanning ended I see I got two digital 7's again. I switch to analog and it's all static. I power off and back on and the static has gone away. I check all analog channels looking for duplicates and there are none. I delete analog 7 and go to digital. The digital 7's are both still there this time (so now deleting analog 7 has no effect). Back and forth from digital to analog and the static doesn't appear for analog.
Joe - I have no confidence in Cox helping with anything (I wrote about my past experiences earlier to explain why) but I could try again. To be sure it's not entirely the unit, I could rescan channels on the 515 to see if "digital" 7.0 shows up now there too. But I don't want to risk screwing up the 515 as I am having no problems with it.
I really really want another Mag unit (in addition to my 515) but the 537 doesn't seem to like me. If I had the first 537 back, I wouldn't have to worry about what the static problem is all about and I might just keep it. I can tell a difference in the picture with the 515 but the 537 is still good. I just looked at all the digital channels the 537 picks up in the 90.-97.- region and I can't find an alternate digital version of ABC so it looks like I'm SOL with this 537 no matter what.
Any guesses on what my luck might be if I return the 537 and and try a 535? I assume the harddrive should be the only difference.
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Joe - I have no confidence in Cox helping with anything (I wrote about my past experiences earlier to explain why) but I could try again. To be sure it's not entirely the unit, I could rescan channels on the 515 to see if "digital" 7.0 shows up now there too. But I don't want to risk screwing up the 515 as I am having no problems with it.
I assume the harddrive should be the only difference.
- wajo
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dweezil: I don't remember all that went on with this either, but if you have an analog ch. 7, have you tried deleting that analog channel and see if that might have been interfering with digital 7.1 etc.?
EDIT: If you have ANY analog channels, you should not only delete analog ch. 7 but also check EVERY analog channel for the same network, channel call sign and content as your digital ch. 7 channel(s)/subchannel(s). If ANY duplicates ANYWHERE in the analog tuner, delete those analog channels also.
wajo - I deleted analog channel 7 but after that I can no longer get the digital 7 either. After I restored analog 7, I can't get digital 7 back still. Actually, digital channel 7 is on the digital channel list, it's just a blank picture though (I think there's only one blank channel 7 so maybe that's progress). I'm rescanning now as I'm writing this.
The first time I switched to analog (and after playing around in digital channel setup), the analog video/audio went static on me again. I shut off and then back on and the static went away on analog as I now expect. I tried to repeat the sequence to see if I could reproduce the actions that sent analog to static and I couldn't.
Ok, now the channel scanning ended I see I got two digital 7's again. I switch to analog and it's all static. I power off and back on and the static has gone away. I check all analog channels looking for duplicates and there are none. I delete analog 7 and go to digital. The digital 7's are both still there this time (so now deleting analog 7 has no effect). Back and forth from digital to analog and the static doesn't appear for analog.
As a final test, I'd do a "Clean Tuner" procedure, which means:
1. Do an Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital) WITH THE COAX OFF to clear all channel memory.
2. Do another analog/digital scan WITH COAX OFF THRU THE ANALOG CHANNELS. Reconnect coax only after you see the first digitals.
3. See if the 537's tuner behaves this way in the digital realm.
If the digital tuner acts right, this might mean it has a problem with ANY analog channels in memory and could be defective?
The only hardware diff. between the three 53x units is HDD, so another 537 would be as OK to try as a 535.
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I know this is probably covered somewhere on the thread, so apologize in advance if its a duplicate question regarding Daylight Saving Time. I have DST turned ON and so expect it to be applied on or about 2am Sunday morning. If I am trying to record a program that starts at 1:30am Sunday and is 1.75 hours long, will I be ok to program it from 1:30am to 3:15am or do I need to make it end time of 4:15am to adjust for the forward time advance at ~2am? (In other words, does the recorder compute elapsed time at beginning of recording and then record for that amount of time or does it use end time and record until that time is reached or ...) OR is it better to just disable DST until later that morning
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twarren: Nothing internal can interrupt a timer program, especially a time change. A manual STOP command is about the only thing you'd have to "worry" about... I've found that timer programs are pretty much "bulletproof" once started.
Adding an hour can't hurt either... sort of like wearing a belt with suspenders.
P.S. Check your clock an hour or so after the end of the timer program (or next morning in your case) to make sure the DST command worked and your clock is now synced.
Edited by wajo - 3/8/13 at 1:32pm
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twarren: Nothing internal can interrupt a timer program, especially a time change. A manual STOP command is about the only thing you'd have to "worry" about... I've found that timer programs are pretty much "bulletproof" once started.
Adding an hour can't hurt either... sort of like wearing a belt with suspenders.
P.S. Check your clock an hour or so after the end of the timer program (or next morning in your case) to make sure the DST command worked and your clock is now synced.
It has been a while, but I used to record something on Sunday mornings that ran from 1:30AM to 2:30AM. I believe it was on my 3576(of course, the Magnavoxes could be different). As I recall, I set it to run till 3:30AM, just in case. Again, to the best of my memory, during the fall transition, I got a 3 hour recording and during the spring transistion, I got a 1 hour recording. Although, the best of my memory, is not what it used to be.
As you suggest, the extra hour may be unnecessary, but it can't hurt, as long as you delete the extra hour, before the buildup eats up the hard drive space.
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My recollection, differs from your statement.
It has been a while, but I used to record something on Sunday mornings that ran from 1:30AM to 2:30AM. I believe it was on my 3576(of course, the Magnavoxes could be different). As I recall, I set it to run till 3:30AM, just in case. Again, to the best of my memory, during the fall transition, I got a 3 hour recording and during the spring transistion, I got a 1 hour recording. Although, the best of my memory, is not what it used to be.
As you suggest, the extra hour may be unnecessary, but it can't hurt, as long as you delete the extra hour, before the buildup eats up the hard drive space.
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IIRC, you don't have Bright House. Here, WFLA NBC HD randomly fluctuates between 3.6 and 8.1. Even though those two have no channels apparent in between, and are provided on 104.6, my V2190As, V513s & V515 lock on the number selected, and record silent black beginning when BHN makes the switch between the number displayed which the recording started and the other, regardless whether the recording was initiated manually or via timer.
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As a final test, I'd do a "Clean Tuner" procedure, which means:
1. Do an Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital) WITH THE COAX OFF to clear all channel memory.
2. Do another analog/digital scan WITH COAX OFF THRU THE ANALOG CHANNELS. Reconnect coax only after you see the first digitals.
3. See if the 537's tuner behaves this way in the digital realm.
If the digital tuner acts right, this might mean it has a problem with ANY analog channels in memory and could be defective?
The only hardware diff. between the three 53x units is HDD, so another 537 would be as OK to try as a 535.
I did the auto channel setting procedures exactly as stated. So I now have no analog channels and only digital and the crappy 7.0 still is there on digital and 7.1 works the same way meaning the good ABC can't be programmed to be recorded. I guess this leaves it open as to whether the problem might be with what's coming from Cox or there's a problem with the 537.
I haven't decided if I should get another 537. I have to figure out my what my options are. I just checked Amazon right now and the 515 is still available for $315 + 13.50 shipping from Koozam. Koozam sells miscellaneous stuff and has a good rating on Amazon. I think I will consider it.
Your advice has been greatly appreciated!
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It might not change anything, or it might fix it completely, or it might just cause you to lose some other random channel numbers. Any result (even if nothing changes) will be a clue to help figure out what's going on.
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I did the auto channel setting procedures exactly as stated. So I now have no analog channels and only digital and the crappy 7.0 still is there on digital and 7.1 works the same way meaning the good ABC can't be programmed to be recorded. I guess this leaves it open as to whether the problem might be with what's coming from Cox or there's a problem with the 537.
Wondering if the timer program works for you if you leave it preset to 7.1 before the recording starts and leave the unit ON. I have one set of stations that overlaps (channel 22 shows MPT 22.1 22.2 and 22.3 AND mhz 22-1 22-2 22-3 ) so, if I want to record a PBS show on the first set of 22s, I leave the tuner set to the correct iteration of 22 and leave the box on-- unattended timer recording works well, but of course, that wont work if you need a different channel prior to that (for multiple recordings). In this set up, if I turn the box off it reverts to the other 22 and I get the wrong recording so I just leave it on all the time. I record the default 22 a lot , using the tuner, and try to remember to record "the other" 22 via cable box, but sometimes that's not feasible. Frustrating, but workable most of the time - admittedly, it's easier if you have a few machines.
You guys are making me nervous about the 537 - sounds as tho you've run into lots of problems with the tuner. .I haven't had time to install mine, yet, but will try to do it this weekend and will report back.
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Wondering if the timer program works for you if you leave it preset to 7.1 before the recording starts and leave the unit ON. I have one set of stations that overlaps (channel 22 shows MPT 22.1 22.2 and 22.3 AND mhz 22-1 22-2 22-3 ) so, if I want to record a PBS show on the first set of 22s, I leave the tuner set to the correct iteration of 22 and leave the box on-- unattended timer recording works well, but of course, that wont work if you need a different channel prior to that (for multiple recordings). In this set up, if I turn the box off it reverts to the other 22 and I get the wrong recording so I just leave it on all the time. I record the default 22 a lot , using the tuner, and try to remember to record "the other" 22 via cable box, but sometimes that's not feasible. Frustrating, but workable most of the time - admittedly, it's easier if you have a few machines.
You guys are making me nervous about the 537 - sounds as tho you've run into lots of problems with the tuner. .I haven't had time to install mine, yet, but will try to do it this weekend and will report back.
dweezel has a problem that only affects the 537. I feel a having that the 7.0 is the main problem since his ABC channel is 7 both physical and virtual. That's rare but not unheard of. I'll be curious if you see any tuning problems. Good luck and keep us posted.
- Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
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