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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 798

post #23911 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post


The zip code helps determine what channels the Magnavox can pick up without using a cable box. My zip code is 18960. He can see what channels my Magnavox recorders can tune directly from the coax cable here. If you prefer to keep your location private that's fine too.

Like I might stalk a whole zipcode. Also, with www.noaa.gov you can find the closest area that might allow OTA. As for the lineup of cable box channels and clear QAM, my feed.

 

All cable is local (c).

post #23912 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by greatgams View Post

And do not ask for my location or zip code again. My location is not necessary to answer a question. Where I live is none of your business. Don't try to answer the question again
There are polite ways of expressing your desire to maintain your level of privacy, such as: "I would rather not reveal that information". What you wrote is rather insulting to anyone here attempting to help you, let alone a long-time respected member.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greatgams View Post

Ok I do not understand why I need to do all this?
Because you have a problem that you cannot solve on your own so you came here asking for help. We are not magicians or mind readers. Problems are traced by "divide and conquer". If you don't like my dissecting approach, that's fine. Perhaps someone else will render you assistance.
post #23913 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post


There are polite ways of expressing your desire to maintain your level of privacy, such as: "I would rather not reveal that information". What you wrote is rather insulting to anyone here attempting to help you, let alone a long-time respected member.
Because you have a problem that you cannot solve on your own so you came here asking for help. We are not magicians or mind readers. Problems are traced by "divide and conquer". If you don't like my dissecting approach, that's fine. Perhaps someone else will render you assistance.

Don't worry. I'm ok with stuff like that. I could have made a comment about: " Don't try to answer the question again ", but why throw gas on a fire?

post #23914 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by greatgams View Post

The cable box has RGB cables hooked up to the TV. The HDMI cable is hooked up to the recorder. The cable is hooked to splitter and back of TV. I removed the RGB cables and hooked them up to the Mag, I still got no picture. I don't understand why this worked fine before but now nothing. There never was an HDM connection from the cable box to the Mag. The HDMI cord was going from the TV to the cable splitter. It worked fine until I called Cox and they told me to unplug the box to reset it.

 

You finally answered the question I was asking in my post that you ignored... connecting anything but HDMI from Mag to your TV shows it's not an HDMI problem with an "easy" fix.

 

Now you need to connect Composite Yellow RCA or S-Video from the cable box to a TV to see if the box is now blocking those analog outputs, which the Mag REQUIRES to see a pic from the box... you don't need audio connections for this test.

 

Keep the RGB output from the Mag to the TV and select that input on your TV.

 

MAKE SURE you've got either a composite Yellow RCA or S-Video cable from the cable box to a vifdeo input on the Mag. Also, make sure you've got the proper Video > Video Input (L1 or L2) selected on the Mag for this test. 


Edited by wajo - 6/19/13 at 7:42am
post #23915 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by greatgams View Post

The cable is hooked to splitter and back of TV. I removed the RGB cables and hooked them up to the Mag, I still got no picture. I don't understand why this worked fine before but now nothing.

Hey there greatgams, how's it going?
post #23916 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post


A converter changes the signal from the cable box's high definition output into a standard definition analog signal that your Magnavox can read.

I was wondering. Since posting "The cable is hooked to splitter and back of TV.", the TV (if digital) should be a good tester of the clear QAM channels. When I used a Pace 110 I fed the the RWY to the 515H L1 input so I could record scrambled shows that are not in my basic lineup, like BBC America. It was analog but looked quite good. The access to the non-HDMI outputs is a local option of course.

post #23917 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

I was wondering. Since posting "The cable is hooked to splitter and back of TV.", the TV (if digital) should be a good tester of the clear QAM channels.
Frankly, I was not able to decipher his connection description, but I get the sense that you have. What does he mean by his reference to "RGB" cables?
post #23918 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post


Frankly, I was not able to decipher his connection description, but I get the sense that you have. What does he mean by his reference to "RGB" cables?

Well, not to get in a battle with the man, sometimes RGB means the component cable colors. I'm old, so RGB just means color video like the label on my laptop that can feed my TV or a color monitor. This topic is not the place to find logic.  Just to be pc, "he" might not be quite accurate:

 

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/gams

 

rolleyes.gif


Edited by JoeKustra - 6/20/13 at 7:40am
post #23919 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Well, not to get in a battle with the man, sometimes RGB means the component cable colors. I'm old, so RGB just means color video like the label on my laptop that can feed my TV or a color monitor. This topic is not the place to find logic.  Just to be pc, "he" might not be quite accurate:

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/gams

rolleyes.gif

In my understanding,
We call PC cable as "RGB cable", "VGA cable", "D-SUB cable" or "HD15" but AV cable as "Component cable".

Component cable and Composite cable has same RCA jack but the signal is different.

Basically VGA and Component signal was same but PC video standard had revised often. (such as Analog RGB --> Digital RGB, other control terminal etc.)

It used to be able to be switched each other but I am not sure all VGA can be or not.

234
post #23920 of 25403
Just bought Magnavox 533 and started initial setup. I got interrupted by my son and must have hit a button on the remote and can't get back to the initial set up. I hadn't even chosen a language or antenna yet. Can I just use the regular menu to do this? There is a warning that if the initial set up isn't done the recorder may not work correctly.
post #23921 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColleenT View Post

Just bought Magnavox 533 and started initial setup. I got interrupted by my son and must have hit a button on the remote and can't get back to the initial set up. I hadn't even chosen a language or antenna yet. Can I just use the regular menu to do this? There is a warning that if the initial set up isn't done the recorder may not work correctly.

 

You can access the setup menus thru the Menu > General Settings menu. Select English in the Display > OSD Language menu. Then select the Clock menu and set the clock (if not already auto-set by the machine). Then select the Channel menu and the Auto Channel Preset > Antenna if on antenna or > Cable (Analog/Digital) if on cable.

 

That does the main setup, after which you can set options as needed.

post #23922 of 25403
Hello -

I just installed a 3x hdmi switch and a new cable (both from Monoprice) in my a/v setup and I'm getting picture but no sound from my Philips 3575 to the tv. I only had 1 hdmi input and I needed more to hook up additional devices. Both an iPad-2 and an Acer netbook work fine with new hdmi cables and the switch.

When I attempted to view some recordings from the 3575, I had picture but no sound. I swapped switch inputs on the switch, but no success. I tested the new 3-ft Monoprice cable installed from the 3575 to the switch on a 2nd tv with the iPad as source and had both picture and sound. That seems to eliminate the new 3-ft cable. I hooked up another newer cable between the 3575 and the switch and still no sound. I also used the input that the iPad and netbook use and still no sound.

As a last resort, I hooked up the original hdmi cable I was using to go from the 3575 directly to the tv and sound was restored. This is/was a "premium" RCA-made hdmi cable that is about 4-5 years old. It doesn't have ethernet or ARC capability I'm sure.

Is there something about the newer cables with ethernet and ARC that the 3575 doesn't like that would prevent the sound from being trasmitted from the 3575 to the tv via the switch? I believe the switch works fine. It is the 3x non-powered (2" square) auto-select from Monoprice.

I also toggled through the hdmi settings via the remote on the 3575, but still no sound. I'm stumped. I and sure don't want to be swapping cables all the time.

Thank you for the assistance.

RangerDave
post #23923 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerDave View Post

Hello -

I just installed a 3x hdmi switch and a new cable (both from Monoprice) in my a/v setup and I'm getting picture but no sound from my Philips 3575 to the tv. I only had 1 hdmi input and I needed more to hook up additional devices. Both an iPad-2 and an Acer netbook work fine with new hdmi cables and the switch.

When I attempted to view some recordings from the 3575, I had picture but no sound....

 

Are your new HDMI cables HDMI 1.4? If so, maybe the new audio and Ethernet channels are causing a problem for the old 3575?

 

First thing I can think of is to turn HDMI Audio off... counter-intuitive but a simple test?

post #23924 of 25403
Thank you for the suggestion Wajo. That does sound counter-intuitive, but I'll give it a try. I guess worst case I'll pick up an older (non-ethernet/non-ARC) cable and try that.
post #23925 of 25403
Thread Starter 

Also try the 4 diff. HDMI formats with HDMI Audio On in case it involves only one format (I'm thinking 1080p)???

post #23926 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerDave View Post

Hello -

I just installed a 3x hdmi switch and a new cable (both from Monoprice) in my a/v setup and I'm getting picture but no sound from my Philips 3575 to the tv. I only had 1 hdmi input and I needed more to hook up additional devices. Both an iPad-2 and an Acer netbook work fine with new hdmi cables and the switch.

When I attempted to view some recordings from the 3575, I had picture but no sound.
...
RangerDave


Not sure if this applies to your set up, but I've found with two Magnavox recorders hooked up to my tv via a 3 way HDMI switch, invariably, when I turn on the one I'm planning to use there is no sound. If I toggle the switch off and on and when it gets back to the one I'm trying to watch, the sound returns. Annoying, but I dont use that one very often, and the "fix' takes just a second. Might be worth a try, in case your switch is behaving like mine.
post #23927 of 25403
And while I'm thinking about it - last night when trying to watch Bravo's re-run of the James Gandolfini interview on Inside the Actors' Studio, I ran into the first "unable to record' error experienced on my Magnavox 537. I got an error message along the lines of "you are not allowed to record this program .. I didnt grab the number but the error was in the 20s ... so... thinking it was the station that had decided to flag the content, I started watching it in real time. About 15 mins later, I decided to try to 'other" Bravo channel (in the 800 tier, vs in the under 100 channel tier on Comcast, thinking I might as well watch in 'high def'....) and lo and behold, I COULD record the program. So, either they flagged one but not the other, or ... something cleared, or the Pace Ring box (which I hate) only blocks analog, not digital or high def... or ... gremlins.

FIgured I'd pass along the 'success' story in any case -- if one channel wont record on the maggie -- perhaps another one will. Worth a try. This was via L1 input from the cable box to Magnavox 537
post #23928 of 25403
Thank you for the additional info, artwire. Mine is a non-powered switch and I remember toggling through the various inputs when I had the problem and still no success getting audio. I'm going to pick up a cable without ethernet/ARC on the way home from work today and give it a try. It's an "Octopus's Garden" of cables behind the a/v setup and I just hate to get back in behind there pulling cables multiple times for fear it will knock something else loose. I left the 3575 hooked directly to the tv so I can watch some recorded programs, then try a new cable and hopefully not have to mess with it again.

I e-mailed Monoprice Tech Support to see if they can shed any light also.

Thank you again for the replies.
post #23929 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerDave View Post


I e-mailed Monoprice Tech Support to see if they can shed any light also.

They won't but I hope you come back here and share the next chapter of your experience.
post #23930 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerDave View Post

I e-mailed Monoprice Tech Support to see if they can shed any light also.

Thank you again for the replies.

Something to ponder:

"

HDMI 1.4 introduces two features called ARC (Audio Return Channel) and HEC (HDMI Ethernet Channel). These features use two pins from the connector: a previously unused pin and the hot plug detect pin.

 

ARC is an audio link meant to replace other cables between the TV and the A/V receiver or speaker system. This direction is used when the TV is the one that generates or receives the video stream instead of the other equipment. A typical case is the reception of ATSC or DVB signals by a TV, but reproduction of audio is handled by the other equipment. Without ARC, the audio output from the TV needs to be routed by another cable, typically TOS-Link or coax, into the speaker system.

 

HEC provides a bidirectional Ethernet communication at 100 Mbit/s. It also goes by the name HEAC (HDMI Ethernet Audio Control).

"

While neither of these items are needed by either the Funai or the TV connected to the Funai, nothing states they can't interfere. Monoprice stopped giving version numbers to their cables last year.

 

I have used different HDMI cables to an ABC switch from my 2160A and 515H. All came from Monoprice and all were very inexpensive. I also wish to hear what they say. My 515H connects to an AVR. There is only one HDMI cable from the AVR to the TV and ARC & CEC are both disabled.

post #23931 of 25403
Ok profhat....because you asked for it - Chapter 2:

You were correct - I have not heard from Monoprice Tech Support. I really didn't expect much in the way of information from them anyway, so nothing lost.

I did a bunch of cable swapping last night and still no sound. I dug out an old hdmi cable that I used in my first set-up many years ago. I'm sure it is non-ethernet/non-ARC. It started to have issues, so I replaced it in short order with the "premium" RCA-made cable that I use now. I figured it was ok to use in a quick test. Hooked everything up - no sound. I even went so far as to hook up the rca audio-out (RW) of the 3575 to the tv hdmi audio-in (used if using a DVI-to-HDMI adapter) and still no sound. I tried turning HDMI Audio off on the 3575 as Wajo suggested and that had no effect.

I have a Maggie 515 that I view over component cables (since I only have 1 hdmi input on the tv). I tried that using the new hdmi switch setup. Still no sound on it either. When I go to the menu to adjust "HDMI Audio" to "ON", it is greyed out and I cannot do that function. I've toggled through all the hdmi settings on the remote and still no sound. I unplugged the component cables thinking there may be an issue putting the signal out over both simultaneously. No effect on anything. So the 515 seems to have the same issue as the 3575. No real surprise there.

I am completely and totally stumped. The only thing that gives me sound (along with the picture) is the original setup of the RCA-made hdmi cable directly connecting the 3575 to the tv.

I kick myself for not ordering an hdmi coupler at the time I made the Monoprice purchase. That would enable me to connect 2 hdmi cables together and act as a "manual" switch by swapping cables with the coupler. The new 3x switch seems to work great, so I don't believe that is an issue.

I thought having 2 non-ethernet/non-ARC cables would do the trick, but it didn't. Any more suggestions? HELP!!!

RangerDave
post #23932 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerDave View Post

As a last resort, I hooked up the original hdmi cable I was using to go from the 3575 directly to the tv and sound was restored. This is/was a "premium" RCA-made hdmi cable that is about 4-5 years old. It doesn't have ethernet or ARC capability I'm sure.
Did you repeat this test using one of the newer HDMI 1.4 cables?
My bet is on the HDMI switch. Just because it works with some of your components doesn't mean it will work with all of them. Such is the hallmark of cheap HDMI switches.
post #23933 of 25403
Hey folks! Long time no drop in here.

A few of you may remember that I'm the guy who bought six 515s to record newscasts for a state agency down in Texas. Well, all the boxes have been working perfectly (touch wood), but now a new question has come up.

We have a 24-hour local news channel here in our market, and would like to record this beast 24/7. Would it be best to just turn it on and let it run, or actually set up a repeating 24 hour program? The channel will NEVER be changed as each machine is dedicated to one channel and one channel only.

Any thoughts?

Thanks! Mike Nassour
post #23934 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by austinsho View Post

Hey folks! Long time no drop in here.

A few of you may remember that I'm the guy who bought six 515s to record newscasts for a state agency down in Texas. Well, all the boxes have been working perfectly (touch wood), but now a new question has come up.

We have a 24-hour local news channel here in our market, and would like to record this beast 24/7. Would it be best to just turn it on and let it run, or actually set up a repeating 24 hour program? The channel will NEVER be changed as each machine is dedicated to one channel and one channel only.

Any thoughts?

Thanks! Mike Nassour

 

With only one machine, I'd set it up with repeating 12-hour timer programs (11:59:59) each and let it run. 12-hours is max for a timer rec.

 

If the station is 24/7, you'll need two DAILY programs?

 

There might be some other things you could do with TWO machines to offer continuous recording while the other is being reviewed, unless you don't have to review what's recorded until you have a specific need.... e.g., you could have tandem machines, on a 12-on, 12-off schedule? Each could have a single DAILY 11:59:59 timer, with review and "rest" time in between sessions?

 

Very nice to hear your six machines are working well for so long!

 

P.S. I've not done this, but I think you could just press REC and record "continuously" until the HDD fills up (or you have to stop to review it, whenever). I do know that the recording will just stop when the HDD is full. This will require some "scheduling" as to when to stop for "reviews" and when to have someone check hours remaining???


Edited by wajo - 6/26/13 at 8:54pm
post #23935 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by austinsho View Post

Hey folks! Long time no drop in here.

A few of you may remember that I'm the guy who bought six 515s to record newscasts for a state agency down in Texas. Well, all the boxes have been working perfectly (touch wood), but now a new question has come up.

We have a 24-hour local news channel here in our market, and would like to record this beast 24/7. Would it be best to just turn it on and let it run, or actually set up a repeating 24 hour program? The channel will NEVER be changed as each machine is dedicated to one channel and one channel only.

Any thoughts?

Thanks! Mike Nassour

I've done some 24/7 "air-check" type reference recording from time to time. In those instances I've used three Magnavox HDD/DVD recorders scheduled for eight hour recordings. That allows for 16 hours of non-recording time per machine per day. During the non-recording hours the material may be edited (if appropriate), divided and high-speed dubbed to DVDs for archiving.

For extended-length recording Panasonic HDD/DVD recorders have an advantage in that the default EP recording mode may be changed from 6 hours to 8 hours. I've found that the actual upper limit of DVD-R capacity is a little more than 8:30 per DVD.

Here's a recent post updating my routine production of a weekly compilation DVD of commentary and news programs:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1359274/recording-editing-question-magnavox-hdd-dvd-recorder/0_60#post_23431598

For this project I use one of my two Panasonic DMR-EH50 models (from 2005) but I may rotate the project between those two EH50 recorders or my two DMR-EH75 recorders (from 2006).
post #23936 of 25403
For DVD-RW on the 533 what is the difference between erase disc and undo finalize and then erase? If I want to erase the whole disc which is better for disc longevity for rewriting many times?
post #23937 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColleenT View Post

For DVD-RW on the 533 what is the difference between erase disc and undo finalize and then erase? If I want to erase the whole disc which is better for disc longevity for rewriting many times?

 

Other users report less problems with RW discs if they Delete titles rather than Erase the disc..

post #23938 of 25403
A quick update on my Monoprice 3x hdmi switch problem: It is now working.

I picked up an hdmi coupler to join the cable from the 3575 directly to the cable going to the tv....and still no sound! I checked the HDMI Audio Out setting of the 3575 and found it was still OFF from my last test. I set it to ON and got sound via the joined cables.

Just for fun, I hooked everything back up to the 3x switch, but still no sound. I toggled through all the inputs several times and lo and behold...the 4th try yielded sound! It's been working fine since. I hooked up the iPad and it switched automatically, then switched back to the 3575 when I unplugged the hdmi video adapter from the iPad.

Thanks for your input in trying to diagnose this problem. I'll chalk it up to a flakey switch. Hopefully all it really needed was for the selector switch to be cycled several times. At least now I have a coupler that I can manually swap cables if/when the switch fails again.

RangerDave
post #23939 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Other users report less problems with RW discs if they Delete titles rather than Erase the disc..

So I should undo finalize and then delete each title?
post #23940 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColleenT View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Other users report less problems with RW discs if they Delete titles rather than Erase the disc..

So I should undo finalize and then delete each title?

 

That's what I'd do if concerned about disc longevity. You could try one disc one way and another the other way and see for yourself if you see any diff.  over time with same number of usage cycles?

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