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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 810

post #24271 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post


When I click that link it goes to post 601 which is unrelated to anything regarding skip 123.
I'm using FireFox.

Using 50 posts per page, both XP/IE8 and Win7/IE9 take me to post #651.

post #24272 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post
 

When I click on that link you say goes to top of pg 35, it goes to the correct post on pg 24. I'm using Firefox browser. All bets are off if you're using IE.

 

Edit: Post #703 is the correct post #, regardless of no. of pages displayed. Posts deleted after this moment in  time will change that number.

 

I've noticed LOTS of times when clicking on a "Last Post" link in a forum list, it takes me to the top of the page that post is on... unfortunately.

 

My edited post from above.


Edited by wajo - 9/1/13 at 9:50am
post #24273 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

When I click that link it goes to post 601 which is unrelated to anything regarding skip 123.
I'm using FireFox.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Using 50 posts per page, both XP/IE8 and Win7/IE9 take me to post #651.
Oh this is just too funny for words.

I display 100 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #601.
I changed my display to 50 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #651, like Joe.
I changed my display to 30 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #703, as per wajo.

Thank you AVS, for such incredibly entertaining forum software.
post #24274 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

When I click that link it goes to post 601 which is unrelated to anything regarding skip 123.
I'm using FireFox.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Using 50 posts per page, both XP/IE8 and Win7/IE9 take me to post #651.
Oh this is just too funny for words.

I display 100 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #601.
I changed my display to 50 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #651, like Joe.
I changed my display to 30 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #703, as per wajo.

Thank you AVS, for such incredibly entertaining forum software.

 

Wow! What a crock THAT is!

post #24275 of 25403
Many years ago, I decided that with software, if you stay with the defaults things usually work much better
post #24276 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Wow! What a crock THAT is!
First, thank you for the table. I'm beginning to feel I may be wasting disk space by tracking loss of clear QAM.

Second, I noticed some links include the posts/page, some don't. I don't know why. Probably something Huddler did to keep us guessing. I so miss the old software.
post #24277 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Something is screwed up with the forum, I have lost all formatting and can't quote. I have to go now anyway, but that first link you just gave worked fine. I'll read over the rest of your post, and thank you again. wink.gif

This forum is always screwed up. Some days are worse than others.
That's why I went away for a long time, they totally screwed up the functionality and layout making things really user-unfriendly. I came back about a week ago, and all that's changed is this "Thumbs up" addition. They've added so many BS parasite and leech codes in the HTML code it's ridiculous.

(Post 24268), when I use Chrome, there's an extension I added that blocks requests of those kinds of sites. http://disconnect.me/ There's about a hundred leech requests on any one of these pages! eek.gif Yesterday I blocked more, and I just now realized (unchecking and checking one-by-one), that for some odd reason, if you block Yahoo there is no more toolbar when you reply! WTH Yahoo has to do with a reply box, I have no idea. So at least I have that fixed.
post #24278 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

Oh this is just too funny for words.

I display 100 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #601.
I changed my display to 50 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #651, like Joe.
I changed my display to 30 posts per page. Clicking that link takes me to post #703, as per wajo.

Quote:
Thank you AVS, for such incredibly entertaining forum software.

G44
post #24279 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

In both Chrome and IE it does that. That doesn't make any sense because I can click links that specifically link to posts without any problems (on either browser), so I don't know why that one is different. So which is the correct page and post #? (As for the page # being different, that may have to do with the layout we select). But I notice that URL is a bit different, it has "user" on the end and I haven't seen links like that before. Also, URL's with "#" in them are usually most tricky and don't always go to the correct location.


Verify please? wink.gif ...........

Ah. So after the FW updates they all have the exact same features? If so, sounds like the best ones to get is the 2160A or 513/515, whatever is cheapest.

I'm sorry, I don't know what to tell you about the links. Best I can do now is give a link to that entire help file rather than a specific "subject" in the file. You can click the Jump Link at the top to go to SKIP 123 procedure, or just scroll down the page.
At least I have the correct post now.

Quote:
I did have someone else who said one of my links went to top of 1st page of the Sticky thread, but he wasn't waiting until the actual destination "settled in." For some odd reason, the new AVS SW has to go to the top of 1st page before "finding" the actual post on a diff. page. Make sure you wait until everything settles down and is no longer "searching."
No, it was "settled", it just didn't work (and from the other posts I can see that for some odd reason that was not a one-person thing).

Quote:
I said before that, after updating an older SATA unit with SuperFW 727V. they OPERATE the same, but they still won't have ALL the "features" of the 515, specifically the remote and longer backup time. However, you could get a 515 remote (see pg. 1 Section 11), basically leaving only the longer backup time different.
Ok, so what I'm asking is if they wouldn't have ALL of the features of the 515, which features would be left out? Is the remote and backup time the only things? BTW, what's wrong with the 2160A remote, is it "flaky" or just not laid out right, or lacks features, etc.? (Backup time never an issue because I have UPS units all over, plus a whole-house generator).

Quote:
If you want a better remote with an older unit, I'd recommend the Philips SRP5107 Learning Remote described here... or, of course, your own choice of universal learning remote.
Thanks. I have two OFA URC-9911 remotes.
post #24280 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Ok, so what I'm asking is if they wouldn't have ALL of the features of the 515, which features would be left out? Is the remote and backup time the only things? BTW, what's wrong with the 2160A remote, is it "flaky" or just not laid out right, or lacks features, etc.?

I have two 2160A, two 513 and one 515. I only use the older remotes. The 515's has a decidedly inferior layout for editing, and is slightly worse overall in layout, one or two things better, other things worse.

With all using the same 727 software, the only differences are HD size, remote, and backup time. The very long 515 backup time is actually an impediment to a reset when it's necessary, creating a long wait to see if a reset helped whatever the problem may have been. As the remote and HD can be readily changed, the sole significant difference is the backup time.
post #24281 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Ok, so what I'm asking is if they wouldn't have ALL of the features of the 515, which features would be left out? Is the remote and backup time the only things? BTW, what's wrong with the 2160A remote, is it "flaky" or just not laid out right, or lacks features, etc.?
Quote:
I have two 2160A, two 513 and one 515. I only use the older remotes.
Wow. Hoarding? biggrin.gif

Quote:
The 515's has a decidedly inferior layout for editing, and is slightly worse overall in layout, one or two things better, other things worse.
(For those that may not know), According to the manuals: The 2160A and 513 use the exact same remote (only the 2160A's manual has it labled as "NB820"). The 515 & 535 remote are identical. That remote is laid out differently, but has all the same buttons, except for it has a "TIMER PROG." button. So why doesn't the 2160A remote have that and how is that button's function accomplished? Would that be the "TIMER" button on the 2160A remote?

I see what you mean about the 515/535 remote, it's not laid out very intuitively. But I do like the larger buttons. What are the "one or two things" you like better about it?

Quote:
With all using the same 727 software, the only differences are HD size, remote, and backup time. The very long 515 backup time is actually an impediment to a reset when it's necessary, creating a long wait to see if a reset helped whatever the problem may have been. As the remote and HD can be readily changed, the sole significant difference is the backup time.
Ok thanks for the info.
post #24282 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Quote:
I have two 2160A, two 513 and one 515. I only use the older remotes.
Wow. Hoarding? biggrin.gif
2 for bedrooms, 3 for record buffers for 3 satellite receivers for PIP/POP main TV. For burning to DVD-R I use 2 Pioneers almost exclusively, rarely any of the Mags, which are for the convenience of record buffers and time shifting, playing DVDs, tuners, and only occasionally transferring via RW to Pioneers for competent editing and burning to DVD-R.
Quote:
(515 remote) has a "TIMER PROG." button. So why doesn't the 2160A remote have that and how is that button's function accomplished? Would that be the "TIMER" button on the 2160A remote?
Of course.
Quote:
What are the "one or two things" you like better about (the 515 remote)?
Trivial. Of my 23 living room remotes with batteries in them, all that have record buttons have them left of center, except the 2160A/513, and a rarely used cheap universal. Ditto for pause buttons.
post #24283 of 25403
Thread Starter 

 

 

For people who don't like the Mag or Philips remotes, or who have both models plus other "stuff," I recommend the Philips SRP5107 Series of Universal Learning Remotes, as described here.

 

I've got my SRP5107 trained into a multi-tasking Ninja Warrior. It works very nicely with Mag/Philips DVDRs.

 

:)

post #24284 of 25403
That URC-9911 I mentioned is the best remote I've ever seen. (I think the 9910/9911 has the RF option that the 8810/8811 does not). Programmable macro functions (L1, L2, L3, L4, and M1, M2, & M3), favorite channel list, sleep, lighted LCD display and the whole remote can be backlit, and even has programmable commercial skip. See page 6 for an image. The problem is the morons stopped making the whole series and they have nothing that replaces it that comes anywhere near the features these have. The only place you can find them is maybe at AV or remote forums or maybe Ebay, then you can refurb them with a remote control keypad repair kit.
post #24285 of 25403
Those can have macros on any button BTW, not just the M ones. I had several many years ago. It's successor is the Xsight Touch. It's better in every way and JP1 programmable like the 9910 and other UEI remotes. Harmony is another good alternative.
post #24286 of 25403
Thanks for the info . I wanted to acknowledge your post and thank You . I'm waiting for AT&T to finish installing necessary sub box too pole wiring or conditioning lines as the linemen call it . Before I can subscribe to Uverse or any thing else AT&T offers , as we're rural and beyond normal phone service . Reality is AT&T really want us to use Satellite service and always figured we'd do just that . Well surprise many people are dropping Direct TV ,so Now AT&T sees a possible profit advantage in providing additional service in our area : As such I'm in limbo holding pattern ,as I don't want to increase my internet wireless service and for the speeds you posted would cost $ 70.00 per month for Internet ONLY !. So I'm on HOLD !. Doc ...
post #24287 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

Those can have macros on any button BTW, not just the M ones.
Yes, forgot about that. All buttons except for 1 or 2 can be reprogramed.

Quote:
I had several many years ago. It's successor is the Xsight Touch. It's better in every way and JP1 programmable like the 9910 and other UEI remotes.
Apparently they don't want you to know about it; no manual, no user guide, not even any images showing the buttons! All the links on the page are also bad. I had to do a (large) image search to find an image of it where you can see the buttons. "Looks" like it does less than the 8810-9911, because they are far fewer buttons. I don't see any "Commercial skip" (timed channel return), it can't do that? I finally found a manual and there's no mention in it of any commercial skip.

Unfortunately the layout is awkward. I memorize remotes very quickly and never have to look at them to use them. The #'s should not be at the bottom of a remote because it causes repositioning of the remote from a "natural holding position" in order to enter channel #'s. Less used buttons should be at the very top or very bottom, with the most frequently used buttons should be around and just above/just below where a thumb would naturally be while holding it.

Even if can do everything a 8810-9911 does, that would mean it can only do many functions by entering sub-menus (multiple key presses) in order to access the same functions that one button can do. That's less user-friendly to me. But to each his own. wink.gif

Quote:
Harmony is another good alternative.
They must not be very reliable because I have never seen a "new" one, only refurb's.
post #24288 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

................."They must not be very reliable because I have never seen a "new" one, only refurb's."

Last year, Logitech announced they were going to sell their "Harmony Products" line, but on June 20, 2013 publicly stated they had decided to "retain" the product line. (Couldn't find a buyer???)

Logitech probably stopped any new product development last year, however, they recently showed a new product " Harmony Ultimate Hub", so I imagine newer remotes will be forthcoming shortly.
________________

P.S. Keep in mind more and more new smartphones are incorporating "Remote" capability, so Logitech have a lot of competition.
post #24289 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by stapler1234 View Post

Logitech probably stopped any new product development last year, however, they recently showed a new product " Harmony Ultimate Hub", so I imagine newer remotes will be forthcoming shortly.
I hope so because the current selection is pitiful.
post #24290 of 25403
Could anyone tell me please what the actual backup time is on the 2160A? It's not in the manual, nor on the first page of this thread (all it says there is "30 seconds to 2 minutes" which is quite a stretch). The time has not been set on mine yet, just the settings and channels and I don't want to lose those while I move it to another room.

Thanks.
post #24291 of 25403
Clint.. I'm pretty sure that the settings are stored in NVRam. If you exhaust the battery backup, the only thing lost is the clock.
post #24292 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Could anyone tell me please what the actual backup time is on the 2160A? It's not in the manual, nor on the first page of this thread (all it says there is "30 seconds to 2 minutes" which is quite a stretch). The time has not been set on mine yet, just the settings and channels and I don't want to lose those while I move it to another room.

Thanks.

 

Backup time on a 2160A is 30 sec WITHOUT any Auto Clock option on... ~2 min. WITH an Auto Clock option on.

 

Longer without power loses clock and timer programs... other settings remain.

 

If you really really don't want to lose clock and timers, just count on 30 sec being your backup time.


Edited by wajo - 9/5/13 at 5:45am
post #24293 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Could anyone tell me please what the actual backup time is on the 2160A? It's not in the manual, nor on the first page of this thread (all it says there is "30 seconds to 2 minutes" which is quite a stretch). The time has not been set on mine yet, just the settings and channels and I don't want to lose those while I move it to another room.


Thanks.

Backup time on a 2160A is 30 sec if you've had any Auto Clock option on... ~2 min. if you've had an Auto Clock option on. [CHANGED: Backup time on a 2160A is 30 sec WITHOUT any Auto Clock option on... ~2 min. WITH an Auto Clock option on].

Longer without power loses clock and timer programs... other settings remain.

If you really have to not lose clock and timers, just count on 30 sec being your backup time.
EDIT: I see you edited your original post, now it makes sense! Thanks. But what doesn't make sense to me, is why would it be longer if auto clock is on? It would seem like it would suck the capacitor more quickly with a function being on. But what is lost, just the clock or the channel scans, and settings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WS65711 View Post

Clint.. I'm pretty sure that the settings are stored in NVRam. If you exhaust the battery backup, the only thing lost is the clock.
It's not in the RAM Wajo?
post #24294 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

It's not in the RAM Wajo?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

... without power loses clock and timer programs... other settings remain.
Quote:
post #24295 of 25403
I'm not going to edit anything else because that may cause cross-replying. I just looked at the clock on mine and it is set now. ?? Obviously, some kind of auto-clock is on because before, --:-- was in the display now it's the correct time. So is that going to give me 30 seconds or 2 minutes? And please clarify what exactly is lost if power is out too long; everything, or just the clock with the rest stored in the RAM.

I'll check email again tonight. wink.gif
post #24296 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by WS65711 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

It's not in the RAM Wajo?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

... without power loses clock and timer programs... other settings remain.
Quote:
(Cross replying gets annoying), I guess I missed that in his edit. wink.gif
post #24297 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Backup time on a 2160A is 30 sec if you've had any Auto Clock option on... ~2 min. if you've had an Auto Clock option on. [CHANGED: Backup time on a 2160A is 30 sec WITHOUT any Auto Clock option on... ~2 min. WITH an Auto Clock option on].

Longer without power loses clock and timer programs... other settings remain.

If you really have to not lose clock and timers, just count on 30 sec being your backup time.
EDIT: I see you edited your original post, now it makes sense! Thanks. But what doesn't make sense to me, is why would it be longer if auto clock is on? It would seem like it would suck the capacitor more quickly with a function being on. But what is lost, just the clock or the channel scans, and settings?
..........
It's not in the RAM Wajo?

 

After typing my edited reply, I remembered my testing on power backup and my ability to just change the Auto Clock setting and getting more backup time... not necessary to have it running with Auto Clock on for any time.

 

I don't know for sure where backup power is stored but, whereever it is, it *might* have something to do with Auto Clock requiring the machine to start the fan and run a channel search at noon and midnight, with black-screen output to the TV, but only with the machine in Standby (off). It doesn't turn the machine fully on so it might be an extra store of power to certain circuits to start the search process in Standby?


Edited by wajo - 9/5/13 at 6:22am
post #24298 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

I'm not going to edit anything else because that may cause cross-replying. I just looked at the clock on mine and it is set now. ?? Obviously, some kind of auto-clock is on because before, --:-- was in the display now it's the correct time. So is that going to give me 30 seconds or 2 minutes? And please clarify what exactly is lost if power is out too long; everything, or just the clock with the rest stored in the RAM.

I'll check email again tonight. wink.gif

 

If you lose power for long enough, you'll lose clock and timer programs only.

 

Auto Clock default setting is ON in a 2160A. They changed that to OFF starting with late 513's because it was causing clock problems in U.S. and people didn't know their default Auto Clock setting was the source of the problem.

 

Since it's apparently ON in your machine (a quick check won;t hurt), you *may* have up to 2 minutes but, again, if you're really worried about losing clock and timer programs, take a pic of the timer programs and just ass-ume you've only got 30 sec to move.

 

You also might want to set Auto Clock OFF if you see an incorrect clock (and even date) setting... depends on the channels in your area... lots of bad time signals out there today. On my old 3575, I've had time go bonkers and date set to 2037 by PBS time signal... PBS sucks here.

 

If you do want an Auto Clock function, you can try to find and confirm a good time signal using "The 11:57 Procedure" described here.

post #24299 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

I'm not going to edit anything else because that may cause cross-replying. I just looked at the clock on mine and it is set now. ?? Obviously, some kind of auto-clock is on because before, --:-- was in the display now it's the correct time. So is that going to give me 30 seconds or 2 minutes? And please clarify what exactly is lost if power is out too long; everything, or just the clock with the rest stored in the RAM.


I'll check email again tonight. wink.gif

If you lose power for long enough, you'll lose clock and timer programs only.

Auto Clock default setting is ON in a 2160A. They changed that to OFF starting with late 513's because it was causing clock problems in U.S. and people didn't know their default Auto Clock setting was the source of the problem.

Since it's apparently ON in your machine (a quick check won;t hurt), you *may* have up to 2 minutes but, again, if you're really worried about losing clock and timer programs, take a pic of the timer programs and just ass-ume you've only got 30 sec to move.

You also might want to set Auto Clock OFF if you see an incorrect clock (and even date) setting... depends on the channels in your area... lots of bad time signals out there today. On my old 3575, I've had time go bonkers and date set to 2037 by PBS time signal... PBS sucks here.
Thanks. So when you say "PBS" do you mean the "Public Broadcasting Network" or is that some other PBS? Mine still shows the correct time, day and date, but I don't see a year anywhere.....but I guess that's irrelevant (and being used to a VCR).

(When the STB is used), The problem I've had with auto-time (or auto-clock) is the morons at Cox are almost two minutes fast now! It was bad enough when they were 30-60 seconds fast which already caused one to miss the ends of shows, but ~2 minutes is unforgivable! Now you have to "REC" on the next-in-line program and time slot (as shown on their EPG) so you'll be able to see the endings of shows, which then ruins any (STB-required) recording on that time slot on a different channel! (Obviously a ploy to get users to shell-out more bucks for a dual-tuner DVR where this issue is a non-issue). When you compare the STB's time to the time on stations, the STB is always shows at the least 1 minute faster. If their STB's had a way to manually set the clock this problem wouldn't matter.

Then there's the problem the DST change that happened a few or so years ago. (Who messes with time anyway??) I believe it was only certain areas that changed the days when clocks were set back and forward from the rest of the country, and now any appliances with DST correction are screwed up. So now I have to keep DST correction off on everything and remember to manually change the damn things myself (which means I have to be awake and at the recording device if a timed recording is set around 2AM or it won't start or end correctly).

Just leave time alone people (the "time gods").

As far as the 2160A goes, I'm shocked that I don't have any major operating questions about it. It was very simple to setup and get working with this "antiquated setup". Timed recordings are very simple, even more so than with a VCR. (I've been testing it on a portable LCD 16:9 TV with NTSC/ATSC, it has RF-in and composite in/out and I'm just using the RF, and using cable not OTA. The connections are: cable from the wall going into the 2160A, then its RF-out going to the VCR's RF-in, composite-out from the 2160A going to the VCR, and RF-out from the VCR going to the TV's ANT-in).

The only thing I've found that may be a little different from info I've gathered around here is regarding the RF-output; it's truly just an "RF bypass" even with it on. I gathered that as long as the unit was on, you could change channels on it and see the result on the TV, and not worry about the VCR, but that's not the case. The VCR must be on all the time with the VCR's tuner active (TV/VCR button). This is not really any issue because if TV is just being watched, then there's no need for it nor the VCR to be on, but if you plan on pausing live TV then the VCR has to be on an active to see what's going on.

I assume an RF modulator would negate the need for the VCR in this case. ?
.........................
Edited by Clint S. - 9/5/13 at 11:17pm
post #24300 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

I assume an RF modulator would negate the need for the VCR in this case. ?
(Assuming that it would), several days back I started looking at RF modulators and all of the ones I saw were auto-sensing or auto-switching. I can't remember which thread it was, but someone said that's probably not a good idea in my case. Comments? wink.gif
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