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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 816

post #24451 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by profhat View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post


Well that's what I'm (horrifyingly) wondering. Why would they do such a hideous evil thing? Aren't some of you using S-video-out from STB's?

Cablecos do that because they can. frown.gif
Luckily this was one of the rare times they did not. I've had STB's with USB, firewire, eSATA, and the jerks disabled all of them. At least have the courtesy and decency to "weld a frickin' plate over them" so they won't be seen. But noooooooo, it's: ..........
Naaaa naaaa Na naaaa naaaa, you can't use us!!"
biggrin.gif
post #24452 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Luckily this was one of the rare times they did not. I've had STB's with USB, firewire, eSATA, and the jerks disabled all of them. At least have the courtesy and decency to "weld a frickin' plate over them" so they won't be seen.
S-Video is an obsolete analog interconnect.
Component is soon to be just as obsolete.
Composite will still hang around and soon will be the sole legacy analog connection. Eventually it too will disappear. The newest equipment have reduced composite connections to a single pin jack with a R/W/Y breakout cable -- often the cable is not included.

The video world is digital. The transition was started over 5 yr ago and triggered the phase-out of analog. Digital interconnects rule the roost and analog has been phasing out -- we are simply approaching the tail end of the analog phase out and people are starting to realize their options with legacy equipment are shrinking.
post #24453 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

The newest equipment have reduced composite connections to a single pin jack with a R/W/Y breakout cable -- often the cable is not included.
.... we are simply approaching the tail end of the analog phase out and people are starting to realize their options with legacy equipment are shrinking.
I've seen that but what I see more is one of the jacks of component(usually the Y jack) shared with composite. In this case if using composite you cannot use component and if using component you don't have the option for composite.
When I wanted a larger TV than my 46" I was forced to purchase a older 52" because I wanted all it's analog connectors, including a obsolete tongue.gif S-video jack.
I cringe to think what my choices will be in 5+ years when I might want to upgrade or go larger again, as you said probably only a lowly composite jack along with a few HDMI jacks frown.gif
Mfgs. are even starting to cut back on HDMI jacks! My oldies have 4 HDMI inputs but many of the newer ones seem to only have 2, my guess is mfgs. think anyone with more than 2 HDMI devices would probably have a AVR and use it for a switcher.
post #24454 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

I've seen that but what I see more is one of the jacks of component(usually the Y jack) shared with composite. In this case if using composite you cannot use component and if using component you don't have the option for composite.
Like you, I've seen that on the newer HDTV's.
Quote:
Mfgs. are even starting to cut back on HDMI jacks! My oldies have 4 HDMI inputs but many of the newer ones seem to only have 2, my guess is mfgs. think anyone with more than 2 HDMI devices would probably have a AVR and use it for a switcher.
I think you have hit that one square on. AVR's all seem to have at least 5 HDMI inputs these days. Personally, I only need two on the TV -- one for the TiVo and one for the AVR. Everything else is HDMI'd into the AVR.

And I've run out of HDMI cables -- again.
post #24455 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post


Mfgs. are even starting to cut back on HDMI jacks! My oldies have 4 HDMI inputs but many of the newer ones seem to only have 2, my guess is mfgs. think anyone with more than 2 HDMI devices would probably have a AVR and use it for a switcher.

True. I have four on my TV, but only use one. My AVR has six. Like you said, I use the AVR as a switcher and the 7.2 ability.

post #24456 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

I cringe to think what my choices will be in 5+ years when I might want to upgrade or go larger again, as you said probably only a lowly composite jack along with a few HDMI jacks frown.gif
Mfgs. are even starting to cut back on HDMI jacks! My oldies have 4 HDMI inputs but many of the newer ones seem to only have 2, my guess is mfgs. think anyone with more than 2 HDMI devices would probably have a AVR and use it for a switcher.

My 5 year old PIP/POP Vizio has more inputs than any current model I've found the past 2 or 3 years, yet far too few inputs. My AVR has 6 HDMI in and several composite and component in, yet is completely useless as a video switcher.

Ideally the TV would only need AV in plus ATSC/QAM tuner (or better yet, one of each separately), and the AVR could do all the switching. My main problem is there doesn't seem to be any such thing as an AVR that provides PIP/POP, while for PIP/POP to work, all sources need to arrive and be dispensed from one switching source. With only a few devices and all of one type, a current model TV might do that, but I think they've all dropped any putatively serious such capability, not to mention access to a useful quantity of legacy devices (far more than one).

What I need is a PIP/POP AVR with at least 7 HDMI in, at least 5 composite in, and at least 2 component in, able to put any combination of input out, scaled as necessary, on HDMI to the TV, plus any single source out to another device such as a DVR (better yet two such), and able to tie any of the pictures' audio out to the speakers independently of which source is the current main or sole video out, like MultiVision 1.1 had in 1988 but with more total input types and quantity. What my AVR doesn't need is dedicated tuners for FM , Sirius, XM or any other audio-only source.
post #24457 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

Like you, I've seen that on the newer HDTV's.
I think you have hit that one square on. AVR's all seem to have at least 5 HDMI inputs these days. Personally, I only need two on the TV -- one for the TiVo and one for the AVR. Everything else is HDMI'd into the AVR.

And I've run out of HDMI cables -- again.

Yes, but if you use a TiVo remote you can control the TV inputs with it, but not the AVR. I don't like the idea of multiple remotes and , no, I don't want to screw around with a third part remote. I use several TV inputs and I am forced to use the components as it has only two HDMI inputs.
post #24458 of 25417
Unfortunately mrmazda you and I seem to be the only ones that care about PIP frown.gif
While my Vizio's don't have PIP my older Sonys do and I use that feature frequently. PIP like analog connections is basically dead, killed by indifference by the vast majority of people.
While I'm no energy freak I do kind of object to having to have something like a AVR(which I'd expect consumes almost as much as a flat screen) on all the time I want to watch an input. I admit even with all the inputs on my TV I'm still forced to have a 4x1 HDMI switcher(which only consumes a few watts when on) and a 4x1 composite/S-video mechanical switcher which draws no power.
I wonder if any AVRs support PIP?? I know my ancient Sony does not, but then again it only has a few inputs. With my TVs PIP the tuner has to be one of the pictures, if a AVR could do PIP with two sources that would be very nice, like one HDMI output on one picture and another HDMI output on the other picture....
post #24459 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGA$$TV View Post

Yes, but if you use a TiVo remote you can control the TV inputs with it, but not the AVR. I don't like the idea of multiple remotes and , no, I don't want to screw around with a third part remote. I use several TV inputs and I am forced to use the components as it has only two HDMI inputs.
That is why I use a Harmony. It controls everything.
post #24460 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

That is why I use a Harmony. It controls everything.

+1
post #24461 of 25417
After having used a Panasonic DMR-E85HS for the past decade (and getting it repaired a number of times in the interim), I've finally acquired one of the Magnavox 537 units and have now integrated it into my AV system while the Panny continues to work in parallel. As I gain experience with the Mag 537's functions and methods for accomplishing the record-edit-dub process I know so well for the Panny, I'm struck by how inelegant and clunky the user interface of the Mag is by comparison -- in particular the cumbersome method for setting chapter beginning/end points and the editing process to cut out unwanted sections of any given title, since the Panny process is far simpler and more direct. Has anyone with one of these Mag DVRs figured out a more direct or simple method comparable to that of the Panny, or am I just stuck with the clunky method?
post #24462 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Luckily this was one of the rare times they did not. I've had STB's with USB, firewire, eSATA, and the jerks disabled all of them. At least have the courtesy and decency to "weld a frickin' plate over them" so they won't be seen.
S-Video is an obsolete analog interconnect.
Component is soon to be just as obsolete.
Composite will still hang around and soon will be the sole legacy analog connection. Eventually it too will disappear. The newest equipment have reduced composite connections to a single pin jack with a R/W/Y breakout cable -- often the cable is not included.

The video world is digital. The transition was started over 5 yr ago and triggered the phase-out of analog. Digital interconnects rule the roost and analog has been phasing out -- we are simply approaching the tail end of the analog phase out and people are starting to realize their options with legacy equipment are shrinking.
That's beside the point. The Mag's only have composite and S-video inputs and they have to be used if you want to record something (and actually use the machine because RF has no OSD).
post #24463 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post


That's beside the point. The Mag's only have composite and S-video inputs and they have to be used if you want to record something (and actually use the machine because RF has no OSD).

What model only has those inputs? I think you mean you have to use those inputs since your STB doesn't have rf out and you can't use the cable rf without the STB.

 

I've been using the rf input and HDMI output for years. I feed the Mag rf out to my TV when I watch one show and record something else.

 

I'll probably regret this post. :)

post #24464 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

That's beside the point. The Mag's only have composite and S-video inputs and they have to be used if you want to record something (and actually use the machine because RF has no OSD).
What model only has those inputs? I think you mean you have to use those inputs since your STB doesn't have rf out and you can't use the cable rf without the STB.

I've been using the rf input and HDMI output for years. I feed the Mag rf out to my TV when I watch one show and record something else.
No, this particular STB has RF-out. Read my post again, particularly the parenthetical inflection. I was only thinking in terms of my current setup. (And we were talking analog outputs). The fact of the matter still is; those "obsolete" analog inputs are all this unit has (not counting the RF) therefore they must be used with an STB or else the STB will "tie up" all recording and viewing. Without these "obsolete" inputs--and since no cable-capable DVR's have HDMI or component input*-- I could not possibly do what I do:

I have the RF-out of the STB going to an A/B switch that goes to the TV (so the TV can show anything) and the other line from the A/B switch is from the Mag/VCR. The STB's S-video out goes to the S-video in of the Mag and that's how I record STB-required programming. (If there were HDMI in that mix, then S-video would not be needed). The main RF line coming from the wall is split, one goes the STB and the other goes to the Mag. I can record STB-required programming on the L1 input, and basic cable (analog and SD digital) using the actual channels on the Mag's tuner. Then I have a VCR in the mix which can record basic cable, or STB-required shows as well (if there's three things on at the same time; watch one and record two). With this setup, I can watch any program via the STB while the Mag and VCR record two different basic cable shows; or record the STB on the Mag, record something basic on the VCR, and still watch something different on basic cable; or, several other combinations.

If it were not for composite and S-video, I could not accomplish any of that ^.

FWIW, the HD STB's from Cox do not have RF-out. The STB on the setup with the Mag is SD and has an RF-out, which is not an RF-bypass. What's being output on its RF-out is also being output on all of its other outputs (composite, S-video, component and HDMI). So as long as the STB is "in circuit in a conventional manner", recording one show while watching another is not possible. But with the way I have things hooked up now, I have all of the watching and recording options.

Quote:
I'll probably regret this post. smile.gif
What's that supposed to mean? I feel the same way now.

The point is; regardless of obsolescence or how antiquated S-video (or other analog) may be, *until a consumer-buyable, no fees, no PC required, CATV-capable DVR gets HDMI inputs from which it can record, these "obsolete" methods are all we have (to have all of the record/watch options I currently have). I looked into numerous HDMI input units such as the Homeworx and ~a dozen other similar devices, and none of those will work because they either won't work with cable, or won't record both digital and analog, or don't have a manual clock (must use OTA EPG/PSIP), or etc., etc., etc. That's why I had to get the Mag.

Until cable co's will give us everything, all channels in digital and we can buy devices such as the Mag with HDMI inputs or that can record true HD, composite and S-video is must, regardless of how "obsolete" it may be. If something is still needed and usable, it's not (by definition) obsolete.
post #24465 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

That is why I use a Harmony. It controls everything.

Well worth the effort smile.gif
post #24466 of 25417
I have confirmed that the digital tuner gets stuck on the previous channel viewed when the analog tuner is used and the next digital channel timer spans midnight. This is on the antenna setting, I don't know about analog cable and digital cable. From 12.1 I set a recording past midnight. Then I switched to 3.1 and from there to analog 4. 3.1 was recorded instead. This only occurs with midnight recordings, not during the day or early morning. For a work around I guess we will have to set a short dummy recording to switch tuners before the main recording.
post #24467 of 25417
I have confirmed that the digital tuner gets stuck on the previous channel viewed when the analog tuner is used and the next digital channel timer spans midnight. This is on the antenna setting, I don't know about analog cable and digital cable. From 12.1 I set a recording past midnight. Then I switched to 3.1 and from there to analog 4. 3.1 was recorded instead. This only occurs with midnight recordings, not during the day or early morning. For a work around I guess we will have to set a short dummy recording to switch tuners before the main recording.
post #24468 of 25417
I have confirmed that the digital tuner gets stuck on the previous channel viewed when the analog tuner is used and the next digital channel timer spans midnight. This is on the antenna setting, I don't know about analog cable and digital cable. From 12.1 I set a recording past midnight. Then I switched to 3.1 and from there to analog 4. 3.1 was recorded instead. This only occurs with midnight recordings, not during the day or early morning. For a work around I guess we will have to set a short dummy recording to switch tuners before the main recording.
post #24469 of 25417
This is just ridiculous, the forum never shows I posted. So I post again. See duplicate posts, and click remove. No posts again, so resubmit. Now THREE TIMES! Everybody wants to use some cute java script to refresh their pages, well ain't gonna' do it.
post #24470 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by mirayge View Post

I have confirmed that the digital tuner gets stuck on the previous channel viewed when the analog tuner is used and the next digital channel timer spans midnight. This is on the antenna setting, I don't know about analog cable and digital cable. From 12.1 I set a recording past midnight. Then I switched to 3.1 and from there to analog 4. 3.1 was recorded instead. This only occurs with midnight recordings, not during the day or early morning. For a work around I guess we will have to set a short dummy recording to switch tuners before the main recording.
FWIW, (2160A) I haven't had any recording issues yet as far as cable goes. If there's anything on major networks, those recordings are made between 7PM and 10PM CST and using the digital QAM "HD" channels and the Mag's tuner, but with occasional later night recordings for Leno/Fallen/Letterman depending on guests. Then I'll record using either the Mag's tuner or STB on L1 for later hours. The orders of recordings changes sometimes where I may record from the STB/L1 early, then basic or digital cable (Mag's tuner) later, followed by more from the STB/L1. But I've never recorded digital cable at exactly midnight, those 12AM recordings are always from L1 or basic analog cable.

I'd be interested to know if this is an issue only with OTA or if any cable users have seen it. What FW version are you using and which DVR?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mirayge View Post

This is just ridiculous, the forum never shows I posted. So I post again. See duplicate posts, and click remove. No posts again, so resubmit. Now THREE TIMES!
I use both an old IE here and a new Chrome and haven't seen that. What browser & version are you using?
Quote:
Everybody wants to use some cute java script to refresh their pages, well ain't gonna' do it.
Indeed. Everyone insists on using it, yet rarely do they ever know what they are doing with it and usually results in all kinds of errors. Sometimes it's really needed and must be used to accomplish certain things, but most sites go totally overboard with gratuitous and erroneous use of it.
post #24471 of 25417

Hi,

I'm a long time lurker, but new at posting.  I have a 2160 that I've converted to external swappable drives and gotten a lot more out of it, thanks to the people here.  So first, thanks! 

 

I recently decided to add another hard drive, so bought a WD Blue WD5000AAKX.  I have the PATA to SATA adapter from Cooldrives and have used it with a Hitachi SATA hard drive with no problems.  However, I cannot get it to work with the new drive.  The hard drive spins up, but the HDD and the power led's on the adapter stay lit, and when I try skip 079 it says hard drive "Not Found".  If I try to record to it, I get an error message.  I tried unplugging for 10 minutes to reset, played with the different jumper settings, but it didn't work.  I plugged it in to my pc without formatting to see if it was a dud, but the pc recognizes the drive.  I'm not sure if that proves anything, but it seems to me it indicates the drive is good.  Any suggestions or reasons why this drive might not work with the 2160? 

post #24472 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crally View Post

Hi,
I'm a long time lurker, but new at posting.  I have a 2160 that I've converted to external swappable drives and gotten a lot more out of it, thanks to the people here.  So first, thanks! 

I recently decided to add another hard drive, so bought a WD Blue WD5000AAKX.  I have the PATA to SATA adapter from Cooldrives and have used it with a Hitachi SATA hard drive with no problems.  However, I cannot get it to work with the new drive.  The hard drive spins up, but the HDD and the power led's on the adapter stay lit, and when I try skip 079 it says hard drive "Not Found".  If I try to record to it, I get an error message.  I tried unplugging for 10 minutes to reset, played with the different jumper settings, but it didn't work.  I plugged it in to my pc without formatting to see if it was a dud, but the pc recognizes the drive.  I'm not sure if that proves anything, but it seems to me it indicates the drive is good.  Any suggestions or reasons why this drive might not work with the 2160? 
Am I correct in saying the 2160 must use IDE and the 2160A is SATA. ? And that this adapter works on a Hitachi drive with the 2160?

I've tried about a dozen of these adapters, IDE to USB, SATA to USB, IDE to SATA, SATA to IDE, and they rarely ever work. My most recent one was a StarTech IDE2SAT to use a SATA drive in an external FW800/1394b enclosure that only takes IDE and it doesn't work either. The drive is fine, (it actually worked for a change) with a SATA to USB adapter. These adapters are very picky, or the drives are picky about working with adapters. In this case it could be that, or the Mag just "doesn't like" the adapter, or if the adapter works with the Mag on a different drive then the WD doesn't like the adapter. The most recent one of which I spoke also happened to be a WD, a WD10EZEX.
post #24473 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crally View Post

PATA to SATA adapter from Cooldrives...

What model adapter? Some adapters don't like working with SATA2 or SATA3 devices. Most such devices can be configured via jumper or software to pretend they are SATA1, after which they ought to work with a cantankerous adapter. Those for converting PATA HDs to work with SATA ports are typically picky about jumper settings on the HD. WD's jumpers have four options (CS, master, only, slave). All other PATA brands I've encountered have at most three (CS, masterORonly, slave).
post #24474 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crally View Post

I have a 2160 that I've converted to external swappable drives and gotten a lot more out of it, thanks to the people here.  So first, thanks! 

I recently decided to add another hard drive, so bought a WD Blue WD5000AAKX.  I have the PATA to SATA adapter from Cooldrives and have used it with a Hitachi SATA hard drive with no problems.  However, I cannot get it to work with the new drive.  The hard drive spins up, but the HDD and the power led's on the adapter stay lit, and when I try skip 079 it says hard drive "Not Found".  ...I plugged it in to my pc without formatting to see if it was a dud, but the pc recognizes the drive.  I'm not sure if that proves anything, but it seems to me it indicates the drive is good.  Any suggestions or reasons why this drive might not work with the 2160? 

I’m pretty sure that the WD5000AAKX drive is still a 512-byte-per-sector drive so it should be compatible with HDD/DVD recorders.

Long shot but did you try jumping pins 5-6 ? Don’t know if that will help but that should slow the drive to SATA-ll specs. Without the jumper settings the drive is in the faster SATA-lll mode and maybe your PATA to SATA adapter can’t handle the drive in SATA-lll mode? Long shot but maybe worth a try.

How many GB is your Hitachi drive?
post #24475 of 25417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Eye View Post

Long shot but did you try jumping pins 5-6 ? Don’t know if that will help but that should slow the drive to SATA-ll specs. Without the jumper settings the drive is in the faster SATA-lll mode and maybe your PATA to SATA adapter can’t handle the drive in SATA-lll mode? Long shot but maybe worth a try.
 

Crally,

I agree with Super Eye.  Try jumping pins 5-6.  See these links.

http://wdc.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/6592/

http://wdc.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/search/1/a_id/1337/c/130/p/227,295

 

I have used nearly a dozen SATA II hard drives (mostly 5400rpm 2 1/2" Hitachis), and had no issues with these type of hard drives in my two externalized Philips 3575's (via a PATA to SATA adapter), and also in one externalized Magnavox 515. 

 

I believe that crally has the Cooldrives PATA to SATA adapter.  He will have to confirm.  It's page says SATA I and SATA II speeds only.

 

 

Crally, out of curiosity, is this the first Western Digital 3 1/2" SATA III 7200rpm hard drive that you have used with your externalized 2160?

 

dfw515

post #24476 of 25417

Thanks all for the replies.  Yes, the adapter I have works well with the HDS721050CLA362  500GB drive (Table A-2).  I have the CoolGear SATAIDE-2as adapter (http://www.cooldrives.com/sahadradtoid.html) that was linked in the "Hardware Replacement & Upgrade" chapter.  This is the first WD SATA drive I have tried.  I thought I had tried all jumper settings, but I will try 5-6 and see what happens.  I'll let you know in a bit.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

Just tried the 5-6 jumper and still no go.  Perhaps I should try a new adapter that can handle SATA III, if the 2160 can handle it?  I wasn't paying enough attention when I bought the drive as it was on sale at a good price.  Worse comes to worse, I can always put it in a pc.


Edited by Crally - 9/30/13 at 5:23pm
post #24477 of 25417
Long time lurker (years now actually!) 1st time poster.
Just wanted to share some info on these recorders that I learned by trial and error for those here who may be interested in doing their own high quality VHS backups using these HDD/DVDRecorders.
I have the MDR535H/F7 and have tried 3 different methods for backing up my large VHS collection. I know some may think this is a waste of time but I don't and I'm sure there are a few others who will agree. Without going into all of the nerdy details as to why, I will just leave it at that smile.gif
The first method I tried was using one of the little MCM type black boxes via RCA cable (only cable type available on this box). It does indeed work but introduces some noise to the video and requires too much tweaking of the internal variable resistor from tape to tape. The noise on the videos wasn't acceptable for me, but others may not have a problem with it.
The second method I tried was the Facet Video Clarifier. It worked as well. I tried it with both S-video and RCA cable and even mixed the two between input and output every way possible but there was always a problem with video jitter no matter what type of cables I used. I wasn't happy with these results either, but again I could see where some people may find it acceptable.
The third method I used worked great. After reading on these forums I decided my best route to take was a TBC and read a lot of good things about the AVT-8710 and this may very well be the best one available for this type of work. I wasn't going to spend $200 on one to find out. I also read the MANY warnings about staying away from older large professional TBC's that are easy enough to find on eBay. I couldn't help but look at these and reading about them and looking for models that have s-video inputs and outputs. I finally ran across a really cheap one that I couldn't help bidding on and I actually won it for a grand total of $30.99 shipped and man am I glad I did! I ended up with a Hotronic AR-31 complete with a wired remote for tweaking the proc amp controls. It has s-video input and outputs as well as BNC connectors for inputs and outputs. It can also input via BNC and output S-video which is actually the way I found I get the best quality VHS backups. I initially hooked it up to my JVC SVHS VCR via s-video cables and it worked just fine. MV CP gone, no jitter or other issues. I have never been really fond of the way VHS looks on a large HDTV via s-video. It seems a little blocky looking to me. I decided to try an old VHS/DVD player combo made by Sanyo I had lying around collecting dust. It doesn't have s-video but it does have HIFI stereo audio on the VHS side which I wanted. I hooked this up to the BNC input of the TBC and then used S-video out of the TBC into the MDR535...wow, it really looked great! I couldn't believe how good it looked hooked up this way! I didn't use a BNC to RCA adapter like most people would. I had a heavy duty BNC data cable with woven copper shielding that I cut the end off of and wired into a male RCA. I know the adapters are readily available, but I had the BNC cable on hand and knew it had to be 100x's better quality than any RCA video cable I had lying around. A little soldering and I gave it a go and I think the cable may have something to do with the great results I got. I tweaked the internal variable resistors on the TBC while playing back a DVD with THX optimizer. An advantage to having the VCR/DVD combo unit, no switching the boxes around to tweek the VR's to optimize the output! I did the tweeks with the TBC in preset mode so it would serve as a base setting and you can further tweak the proc amp settings via the remote if needed (although I haven't needed to yet). Yet another benefit to having the VCR/DVD combo unit is that I have hooked up the s-video side input of the TBC and output S-video into the MDR535 to make backups of the kids dvd's that we can take in the car and I don't have to worry about them getting scratched up! Of course s-video DVD output isn't so great but for kids movies in the car, they will never know the difference. For whatever reason the s-video output from DVD players doesn't look blocky on HDTV's like VHS output from S-video. Not sure why this is but YMMV.

If anyone runs across a bargain on a Hotronic AR-31 TBC and needs a diagram of the internal VR's and what they do, I could come up a little diagram for you that may save you a little time adjusting yours. I took notes just in case I ever needed to make any more adjustments internally. There are 12 VR's so it is quite a bit to figure out and I couldn't find a manual for one anywhere.
I might not know the technical jargon, but I can tell you what VR did what as I turned them CCW or CW but I don't know the technical verbiage. I'm not a pro video guy, but more picky than the average Joe about results on something like this and I can say that VHS is what it is, it will never be perfect...but the results I get using this TBC is very good and very watchable on my 43" HDTV to me. Now I can watch Star Wars the way I saw it in the theaters without all of the extra garbage added into the DVD's LOL! Darn you Lucas and your ego for not putting the original theatrical releases on DVD... I had to go and make my own! Ok there is my Nerd coming out, sorry!

Thanks for the great people on these forums! I usually am looking for answers to questions and have little trouble finding them here and that is why I have simply been a lurker this whole time.
Sorry for the lengthy 1st post but I really thought someone out there might find this info useful.
post #24478 of 25417
Thread Starter 

Welcome to our forum, and for the excellent info some others may need someday! Good job! :)

post #24479 of 25417
Thanks. This thread you started is the reason I bought the Mag HDD/DVD recorder to begin with a little over a year ago now! Great device, I love it!
post #24480 of 25417
How does the Mag's recording quality compare to the Panny's or what Sony used to make? I'm wondering about LP speed ( 4hr), I'm guessing SP and HQ would be good.
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