or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 820

post #24571 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by blust2 View Post

My Philips 3576 and Magnavox H2160A use different remote codes. So I can operate them in the same room. The downside of using Philps 3576 is that it is an older model and automatically resets the clock using analog channels that now deceased to exist thus useless. Need to reset the clock manually every week.

I also have a 3576 and 2160a stacked in a spare room. I manually reset clocks every week IF I have to do back-to-back recording on different channels. The 3576 gains about 35 seconds per week, and the 2160a about half that. Aside from the clock though, I've gotten far more than my money's worth from that old 2008 3576. It's other problem is a weaker tuner that has trouble with some digital channels - so I try to keep those recordings on the 2160a or 515. Fortunately these days most missed recordings can be re-recorded on line from network sites using PlayLater on a PC...

CC
post #24572 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfw515 View Post

Camborita,
Could you elaborate on your comment..."couldn't get the 3576 to consistently recognize the new HDD"?  Do you mean that half the time it wouldn't recognize that a HDD was connected when you turned on the 3576?  Or is it some other odd behavior?

One possibility, if you could confirm, did you connect the Molex power cord to the PATA to SATA adapter?  I made that mistake once, but it didn't take long to realize what I had done.

Was it a problem with unattended timer recordings (where the 3576 was OFF at the time the Timer Recording started up the machine)?

Was the new HDD 5400 or 7200 rpm?  SATA 2 or SATA 3?


Try this link.  It is the story of someone replacing the SATA PCB/adapter on their Magnavox 515?  I'm not sure, but I think that avsforum user "rkg22" MIGHT have tried to use this Funai part to replace the PATA PCB/adapter on a Philips 3576.  I do not recall if he was successful.  I searched, but could not find the post.  Perhaps you might try sending him a Private Message to see if he can help.

dfw515

Hi dfw515,

Sorry for my delayed reply. The replacement HDD I tried was a Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 (7200 RPM). I'm pretty sure it is SATA 3. Everything started out well when I first hooked it up, the 3576 recognized it, I was able to do a test recording on it, and all seemed good. Was testing with the cover off.

However once I tucked the PCB board down inside the case and flattened out the IDE extender cable and replaced the cover, the 3576 showed no HDD installed. Unplugged, removed the cover, checked all the cables, power connections, etc., all was good. Plugged back in and the unit froze. Had to do a soft reset to bring it back. At that point, things continued to go downhill. Sometimes the 3576 would see the drive, but increasingly it would not and kept freezing up when unplugged and replugged. I spent a few hours messing around with it, doing soft resets, etc., etc, and finally gave up and put the original PATA HDD back in. Even that was flaky for a little while, more soft resets needed, but I finally (knock on wood) got the unit to consistently recognize the original PATA HDD. Have basically left the unit powered on since then since I'm worried it might lock up again if I turn it off. So far though has been working OK for the last two days (with the power constantly left on).

The only other random things I can think of which might have some bearing on why the unit wouldn't recognize the replacement HDD are:

1. Bad IDE extender cable that cuts out when folded. The cable is brand new, however, and I unfortunately don't have another one to swap it out to see if this is the case.

2. I disconnected the PCB ribbon cable from the PCB board to make it easier to maneuver things around when hooking everything back up. I correctly released the cable by flipping up the black "hinge" and reconnected the cable the same way, so it seems this would be an unlikely problem area.

3. The black electrical tape I was using to secure the PCB board, PCB ribbon cable & IDE extender cable in place inside the case left a little bit of sticky black residue on the two cables. Again, I doubt this is what caused problems, but am mentioning just in case.

4. The PATA/SATA adapter and the IDE extender cable are not the ones that AUSKCK used. The ones I used were:
HDE SATA to PATA/IDE Hard Drive Interface Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Y2NI4M/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Micro SATA Cables - 40 Pin Male to Female IDE Extension Cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055D9KMG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did also remove the jumper from the PATA/SATA adapter as directed in AUSKCK's tutorial.

To confirm on your other questions, yes I did have the Molex power cord hooked up to the PATA/SATA adapter. There were no issues with unattended timer recordings that I am aware of, but I did not test that functionality since I don't use it.

Not sure if that gives you any further ideas, but I do appreciate your thoughts and comments and any additional insight you or anyone else may have.
post #24573 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by camborita View Post


Hi dfw515,

Sorry for my delayed reply. The replacement HDD I tried was a Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 (7200 RPM). I'm pretty sure it is SATA 3. Everything started out well when I first hooked it up, the 3576 recognized it, I was able to do a test recording on it, and all seemed good. Was testing with the cover off.

However once I tucked the PCB board down inside the case and flattened out the IDE extender cable and replaced the cover, the 3576 showed no HDD installed. Unplugged, removed the cover, checked all the cables, power connections, etc., all was good. Plugged back in and the unit froze. Had to do a soft reset to bring it back. At that point, things continued to go downhill. Sometimes the 3576 would see the drive, but increasingly it would not and kept freezing up when unplugged and replugged. I spent a few hours messing around with it, doing soft resets, etc., etc, and finally gave up and put the original PATA HDD back in. Even that was flaky for a little while, more soft resets needed, but I finally (knock on wood) got the unit to consistently recognize the original PATA HDD. Have basically left the unit powered on since then since I'm worried it might lock up again if I turn it off. So far though has been working OK for the last two days (with the power constantly left on).

2. I disconnected the PCB ribbon cable from the PCB board to make it easier to maneuver things around when hooking everything back up. I correctly released the cable by flipping up the black "hinge" and reconnected the cable the same way, so it seems this would be an unlikely problem area.

4. The PATA/SATA adapter and the IDE extender cable are not the ones that AUSKCK used. The ones I used were:
HDE SATA to PATA/IDE Hard Drive Interface Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Y2NI4M/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Micro SATA Cables - 40 Pin Male to Female IDE Extension Cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055D9KMG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did also remove the jumper from the PATA/SATA adapter as directed in AUSKCK's tutorial.
 

 

camborita,

If I read your two posts correctly, you inserted the IDE extender and PATA to SATA adapter, turned on the machine, and successfully tested with the cover off.  Did you turn on the machine, test, and turn off the machine multiple times?  I ask, so that we can rule out a loose or pinched cable (when the cover is put back on).

 

On your second post, you indicated that you removed the jumper from the SATA hard drive.  Since you have a SATA III hard drive, the jumper likely needs to be placed on the far left two pins (so that it runs in 1.5 gbps mode) which would be more compatible with the slower motherboard/PATA controller in the 3576.

 

On your last post, you indicated that you removed the jumper from the PATA to SATA adapter.  Did you mean to reference the SATA hard drive jumper, or does your PATA to SATA adapter have a jumper?  I don't see one on the Amazon photos.  If it does have a jumper, you might need to determine what the jumper settings are for that adapter, or do trial and error with various jumper settings.

 

I don't recall, but is it possible that when you put the ribbon cable (what I call wafer cable) back onto the PCB (with the black clip), is there any chance it can be put in upside down?  Just spitballing on this comment.

 

FYI...I looked at auskck's directions again.  It does say to unplug the power cord to the 3576 for a few minutes.  I think that we have since determined that it should be 15 minutes.  This allows the electricity to completely dissipate from the 3576.  It may or may not make a difference, but I would recommend you let it sit for at least 15 minutes between swapping any cables around.  This might resolve your need to do soft resets after plugging the electrical plug back in.

 

When you unplug for this long, the time/date and any Timer Recordings will clear.  A new channel search (and other assorted settings) should not be necessary.  So be sure to write down your future recordings (Date/DOW, Start/Stop Time, etc.  This same data will also be deleted if you format a new hard drive, but I'm guessing you figured that out already.

 

Hopefully, we can figure this out.

 

dfw515

post #24574 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfw515 View Post

camborita,
If I read your two posts correctly, you inserted the IDE extender and PATA to SATA adapter, turned on the machine, and successfully tested with the cover off.  Did you turn on the machine, test, and turn off the machine multiple times?  I ask, so that we can rule out a loose or pinched cable (when the cover is put back on).

On your second post, you indicated that you removed the jumper from the SATA hard drive.  Since you have a SATA III hard drive, the jumper likely needs to be placed on the far left two pins (so that it runs in 1.5 gbps mode) which would be more compatible with the slower motherboard/PATA controller in the 3576.

On your last post, you indicated that you removed the jumper from the PATA to SATA adapter.  Did you mean to reference the SATA hard drive jumper, or does your PATA to SATA adapter have a jumper?  I don't see one on the Amazon photos.  If it does have a jumper, you might need to determine what the jumper settings are for that adapter, or do trial and error with various jumper settings.

I don't recall, but is it possible that when you put the ribbon cable (what I call wafer cable) back onto the PCB (with the black clip), is there any chance it can be put in upside down?  Just spitballing on this comment.

FYI...I looked at auskck's directions again.  It does say to unplug the power cord to the 3576 for a few minutes.  I think that we have since determined that it should be 15 minutes.  This allows the electricity to completely dissipate from the 3576.  It may or may not make a difference, but I would recommend you let it sit for at least 15 minutes between swapping any cables around.  This might resolve your need to do soft resets after plugging the electrical plug back in.

When you unplug for this long, the time/date and any Timer Recordings will clear.  A new channel search (and other assorted settings) should not be necessary.  So be sure to write down your future recordings (Date/DOW, Start/Stop Time, etc.  This same data will also be deleted if you format a new hard drive, but I'm guessing you figured that out already.

Hopefully, we can figure this out.

dfw515

Thanks for your reply. To answer your questions:

"If I read your two posts correctly, you inserted the IDE extender and PATA to SATA adapter, turned on the machine, and successfully tested with the cover off. Did you turn on the machine, test, and turn off the machine multiple times? I ask, so that we can rule out a loose or pinched cable (when the cover is put back on)."

Yep, turned off many, many times. I had to because the 3576 kept freezing up.


"On your second post, you indicated that you removed the jumper from the SATA hard drive. Since you have a SATA III hard drive, the jumper likely needs to be placed on the far left two pins (so that it runs in 1.5 gbps mode) which would be more compatible with the slower motherboard/PATA controller in the 3576."

This is on my short list of possible fixes, but since the 3576 is put back together and back inside the entertainment center, it will have to be a weekend project. Probably a couple of weeks out at this point, sadly...


"On your last post, you indicated that you removed the jumper from the PATA to SATA adapter. Did you mean to reference the SATA hard drive jumper, or does your PATA to SATA adapter have a jumper? I don't see one on the Amazon photos. If it does have a jumper, you might need to determine what the jumper settings are for that adapter, or do trial and error with various jumper settings."

I definitely meant the PATA/SATA adapter jumper. The pictures on Amazon aren't the best, but it definitely has a jumper. Trial and error with that jumper are also in the plans for future testing since there are no instructions for the adapter at all, so I have no idea what the jumper does or what the settings should be.


"I don't recall, but is it possible that when you put the ribbon cable (what I call wafer cable) back onto the PCB (with the black clip), is there any chance it can be put in upside down? Just spitballing on this comment."

I don't think so because the cable was folded/creased (by Funai when originally installed) so that the ends would be positioned in a specific orientation. I would have had to reverse the creases for it to be installed upside down and I definitely didn't do this.


"FYI...I looked at auskck's directions again. It does say to unplug the power cord to the 3576 for a few minutes. I think that we have since determined that it should be 15 minutes. This allows the electricity to completely dissipate from the 3576. It may or may not make a difference, but I would recommend you let it sit for at least 15 minutes between swapping any cables around. This might resolve your need to do soft resets after plugging the electrical plug back in."

I did do this for the first few times, but the waiting the 10/15 minutes didn't seem to make any difference. However, by the nth time of having the HDD not get recognized, I was getting frustrated and was unplugging and soft resetting without waiting... rolleyes.gif


"When you unplug for this long, the time/date and any Timer Recordings will clear. A new channel search (and other assorted settings) should not be necessary. So be sure to write down your future recordings (Date/DOW, Start/Stop Time, etc. This same data will also be deleted if you format a new hard drive, but I'm guessing you figured that out already."

No worries here, there is nothing scheduled to record since I had completely cleaned it off in anticipation of swapping out the HDD.

Thank you for taking the time to go over this with me. I also PM'd to rkg22 and he let me know he had been successful in installing a SATA PCB board, so I might possibly go that route.

When I have time to open it back up again (and hopefully not get frustrated again), I'll post back with the results. biggrin.gif
post #24575 of 25409

camborita,

You know where to find us when you do have a chance to work on it again.  Good luck.

dfw515

post #24576 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by camborita View Post

"FYI...I looked at auskck's directions again. It does say to unplug the power cord to the 3576 for a few minutes. I think that we have since determined that it should be 15 minutes. This allows the electricity to completely dissipate from the 3576. It may or may not make a difference, but I would recommend you let it sit for at least 15 minutes between swapping any cables around. This might resolve your need to do soft resets after plugging the electrical plug back in."

I did do this for the first few times, but the waiting the 10/15 minutes didn't seem to make any difference. However, by the nth time of having the HDD not get recognized, I was getting frustrated and was unplugging and soft resetting without waiting... rolleyes.gif
 

 

Many upgraders have reported that their new HDD "wasn't recognized" until we figured out you have to select the HDD drive anyway, press REC and let it record to the HDD for ~10 sec or so (until the red REC dot disappears or else it could freeze). Did you do that? (Sorry if I missed it in the long posts.)

post #24577 of 25409
Thread Starter 

:D

 

Some very preliminary info on some new HD recorders/wi-fi streamers that might be released by Funai soon, possibly this month... or not at all, time will tell, of course.

 

:D


Edited by wajo - 11/6/13 at 6:19am
post #24578 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Many upgraders have reported that their new HDD "wasn't recognized" until we figured out you have to select the HDD drive anyway, press REC and let it record to the HDD for ~10 sec or so (until the red REC dot disappears or else it could freeze). Did you do that? (Sorry if I missed it in the long posts.)

Yep, I definitely did that, but thanks for mentioning it, just in case. smile.gif
post #24579 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by camborita View Post

I definitely did that

With what result?
post #24580 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

biggrin.gif

Some very preliminary info on some new HD recorders/wi-fi streamers that might be released by Funai soon, possibly this month... or not at all, time will tell, of course.

biggrin.gif

Wajo
The remote reminds me of my sony remote with Netflix at the bottom.
Will the Magnavox be able to record the wifi channels? I've been streaming Netflix for most
of the year.On both the sony 3100 and the much faster
LG 42" 6200 TV !

Mark
smile.gif
post #24581 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkB49 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

biggrin.gif

Some very preliminary info on some new HD recorders/wi-fi streamers that might be released by Funai soon, possibly this month... or not at all, time will tell, of course.

biggrin.gif

Wajo
The remote reminds me of my sony remote with Netflix at the bottom.
Will the Magnavox be able to record the wifi channels? I've been streaming Netflix for most
of the year.On both the sony 3100 and the much faster
LG 42" 6200 TV !

Mark
smile.gif

 

It seems that it will, most likely just like your Sony. It even has a buttons for "Net App" and "HOME" which are intriguing.


On the Energy Star site, the new units are "typed" as IPTV units but, as they explain "Type," units can be simple (one type only) or "Complex" (many types), but they just have to be "classed" for one type. So, they appear to certainly be streaming devices and, since the TB unit has "Antenna" in and out connectors, it might be just for tuning Antenna channels with the CH+/CH- buttons... I'm wondering if the model designation, "TB," stands for Terestrial Broadcast, while the Philips units designated as "HDR" might stand for High Def Recorder?

 

Speculation is fun... but often wrong!?

 

P.S. I hope you don't mind but I'm going to paste your question and my response in the dedicated thread in the HDTV Recorders forum for people who don't come to this Std Def forum.

post #24582 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

With what result?

Hi mrmazda,

From my earlier post:

"Everything started out well when I first hooked it up, the 3576 recognized it, I was able to do a test recording on it, and all seemed good. Was testing with the cover off.

However once I tucked the PCB board down inside the case and flattened out the IDE extender cable and replaced the cover, the 3576 showed no HDD installed. Unplugged, removed the cover, checked all the cables, power connections, etc., all was good. Plugged back in and the unit froze. Had to do a soft reset to bring it back. At that point, things continued to go downhill. Sometimes the 3576 would see the drive, but increasingly it would not and kept freezing up when unplugged and replugged. I spent a few hours messing around with it, doing soft resets, etc., etc, and finally gave up and put the original PATA HDD back in. Even that was flaky for a little while, more soft resets needed, but I finally (knock on wood) got the unit to consistently recognize the original PATA HDD. Have basically left the unit powered on since then since I'm worried it might lock up again if I turn it off. So far though has been working OK for the last two days (with the power constantly left on)."
post #24583 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by camborita View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

With what result?
From my earlier post: (deleted)

My sole interest was in what if anything happened when you did the one thing Wajo suggested and to which you replied "I did that". Your paste from your original was unhelpful in answering the question asked.
post #24584 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

My sole interest was in what if anything happened when you did the one thing Wajo suggested and to which you replied "I did that". Your paste from your original was unhelpful in answering the question asked.

Hi mrmazda,

Sorry if I was unclear. I did the recording to the new HDD and waited until the red dot disappeared. The 3576 recognized the new HDD as expected and the "test" recording showed up in the title list.

Is that what you wanted to know?
post #24585 of 25409
I think so.
post #24586 of 25409
Am I the only one that doesn't need yet another 'smart' device?

I'd be happier that they kept the price down and got the DVR part right.
Especially since, as we've seen, that they don't really make changes to the design for years once they're set it.
post #24587 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

Am I the only one that doesn't need yet another 'smart' device?
Really? You mean you don't want every electronic device you own to stream Netflix.
We just bought a new dishwasher and stove and I was disappointed to see that neither had an Ethernet jack nor wireless.
post #24588 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post


Really? You mean you don't want every electronic device you own to stream Netflix.
We just bought a new dishwasher and stove and I was disappointed to see that neither had an Ethernet jack nor wireless.

Oh, so you bought last year's models?:)

post #24589 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

Am I the only one that doesn't need yet another 'smart' device?
Really? You mean you don't want every electronic device you own to stream Netflix.
We just bought a new dishwasher and stove and I was disappointed to see that neither had an Ethernet jack nor wireless.

I was sure the models that they were bringing out for Christmas had those features, along with foot massage and automatic commode retrieval (on demand!).
post #24590 of 25409
Does Netflix and such pay electronics manufacturers like advertisers do? It would make a lot of sense.
post #24591 of 25409
Walmart is showing today (11/10/2013) the refurb'd 533 320GB for $208. Lowest I've seen in awhile - worth picking up a 2nd at this price!
post #24592 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by adorable View Post

Walmart is showing today (11/10/2013) the refurb'd 533 320GB for $208. Lowest I've seen in awhile - worth picking up a 2nd at this price!

 

This is their 2nd batch, and they've only got 11 left in stock now.

post #24593 of 25409
Thinking about it, there is exactly 1 smart feature I'd like to see in a new model. It would be great if these could act as a DLNA server and serve recorded programs.
It'll never happen of course. It'll be Netflix and Vudu (does anyone actually use Vudu?)
post #24594 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

Thinking about it, there is exactly 1 smart feature I'd like to see in a new model. It would be great if these could act as a DLNA server and serve recorded programs.
It'll never happen of course.
You can always get a whole-house DVR for that.
post #24595 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

You can always get a whole-house DVR for that.

Always? What models are available for those without broadband or cable or satellite subscriptions?
post #24596 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Always? What models are available for those without broadband or cable or satellite subscriptions?
I feel like I'm being set up. wink.gif

Well, subscription-less TiVo, of course.
A 4-tuner Roamio for OTA, networked through the house to a collection of TiVo-mini's. Add the TiVo Stream and you can wirelessly stream your programs to your mobile devices.

Before you go there, I never said it would be cheap.
post #24597 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

I never said it would be cheap.
Maybe so, but how many people with no subs of any kind do you suppose are interested in anything more expensive than cheap? Always and never are a couple of serious words. tongue.gif
post #24598 of 25409
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Maybe so, but how many people with no subs of any kind do you suppose are interested in anything more expensive than cheap?
I don't know how many other people are cheap -- it sounded like you were interested in the capability for your own use. Like I said, it can do the job you desire of serving the recordings through the house -- it's just not cheap. If you want it for walmart cheap, I got nothing for you.
post #24599 of 25409
I have the 533 i bought from Walmart a little over a year ago (no warranty!) I tried recording something this morning and cut it on to set the timer for recording. I got no hdmi output. I tried switching cables and inputs to the the TV and nada. I then tried to a simple audio/video (RYW) connector so I could at least get it recorded. Still no video output to the TV???!!! What is going on? The unit powers up checks for disc and will access menus, I just get no video to see what's going on when I pull up menus with hdmi or audio/video connections. Is it toast?
post #24600 of 25409
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by glangford View Post

I have the 533 i bought from Walmart a little over a year ago (no warranty!) I tried recording something this morning and cut it on to set the timer for recording. I got no hdmi output. I tried switching cables and inputs to the the TV and nada. I then tried to a simple audio/video (RYW) connector so I could at least get it recorded. Still no video output to the TV???!!! What is going on? The unit powers up checks for disc and will access menus, I just get no video to see what's going on when I pull up menus with hdmi or audio/video connections. Is it toast?

 

First, Yellow RCA (composite) output is cut off if you've got Video > Progressive Scan (PS) On, so check that and, if On, turn it Off. You don't need PS On for a HDMI connection.

 

Not sure what's up with your HDMI connection, but pull power cords from both TV and Mag, then remove and replace the HDMI, both ends, with the units off (should bever connect HDMI with units powered on).

 

Then, write down or take a pic of your timer recording programs.

 

Then do a Soft Reset.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DVD Recorders (Standard Def)
AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575