or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 105

post #3121 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartman View Post

I had the 250 from my other machine handy so I used it.

Just curious, do you know if the 250 you used for replacement was close in power and dimensions to the original 160GB?
post #3122 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by rec630 View Post

Just curious, do you know if the 250 you used for replacement was close in power and dimensions to the original 160GB?

Well I'd have to look it up but my bet is it uses a bit more power then the 160 did, not a TON more. The drive fit in the brackets for the 160 just fine, it might be a bit taller top to bottom but there is room in the case so no problems.
I'd think as long as it's a normal IDE drive and doesn't draw a considerable amount more power you'd be OK. The A/V drive are just made to draw less power and be on 24/7 and a few other things depending on the drive. Look at wajo's list of the factory style drive and power draw from them and shop accordingly.
The Power supply in these things do have a fuse but it's hard to say if a too power hungry drive would pop it before the machine had issues.
I do have some pics buried in the Polaroid 2001g thread of the 80 gig model WD model that is the same family as the 250 so you could go from there and figure out what this one draws.
I do know so far the only difference I can tell is more space and the drives is noisier, it stays dead cool over the drive mount in the case.
They didn't do any rubber or foam mounts where the cage screws down to the circuit board so that may help isolate it if anyone else finds a drive that seems loud.
post #3123 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hardy View Post

I need a couple of sources for a 250GB drive for my 3575. The idea of bumping capacity by 50% is appealing. Just a couple of refs please, don't want to start a religious discussion of suppliers .

I think I'd sooner put in the bigger drive and enjoy the capacity and keep the 160 on the shelf for backup. I'm usually shy about messing the warranty (mine is 7 mos old?) but may be ready soon.

I know you're just looking for sources, but the table of drives quoted was for the 2160 just so others know... the drives for the 3575/3576 are the Seagates listed in a diff. table in the SKIP help file here.

NOTICE: With people starting to order HDDs in advance for their machines and not installing right away, I'm getting a little nervous... my tables in the SKIP file tables were a "best-efforts" attempt on my part to provide info, so I added the cautionary note to check in advance of ordering. If someone was installing right away, at least that might "validate" the data in a HDD table and put my mind at ease.

Only one other member has PM'd me with a question on the tables, basically that the idle power for the Seagates should be ~60% of the usage power. I quadruple checked but only found a diff. minor error based on referencing an Oct 2007 spec sheet I had somehow vs the latest Dec 2008 version, but everything else was per the spec sheet. This was explained in some other thread I read as not unusual for some reason.

ANYWAY, I think it would be a GREAT idea for someone else with more HDD replacement experience, esp, Dartman who's replaced his with an old Woot-special already, to check the specs where I got the data and make sure the drives listed in the tables below, which are from the SKIP file, are correct... like are the 2160's drives really PATA, which the GLAT on the only one we've got a pic of has on it? Dartman could prob. tell cuz he replaced his, for example.

Here are both tables for ANYONE else to check and help make sure people will be ordering the right drives and I can become less nervous... nerves will go away as soon as the first drive is successfully replaced with a model from the approp. chart!

Seagate DB35.3 Series for the 3575/3576 (with areas of diff.)... Spec Sheet Dec 2008
Size (GB) Model # UsageW IdleW StdbyW Height in.*
80 ST380215ACE 5.0 4.8 0.8 0.787
160 ST3160215ACE 5.0 4.8 0.8 0.787
250 ST3250820ACE 8.2 9.3 0.8 1.028
320 ST3320820ACE 8.2 9.3 0.8 1.028
400 ST3400820ACE 8.2 9.3 0.8 1.028
500 ST3500830ACE 8.2 9.3 0.8 1.028
750 ST3750840ACE 8.2 9.3 0.8 1.028
*Only dimension that changes.

An alternate 160GB HDD for the 3575/3576 is a Western Digital (WD) Model WD1600AVBB-63SYA0. No personal experience, but I've read lots of posts on WD being not as high-quality as Seagate. YMMV.

Hitachi Deskstar P7K500 (GLAT/PATA) for the 2160... Spec Sheet Rev 1.0 Nov 14, 2007
Size (GB) Model # UsageW IdleW StdbyW Height in
160 HDP725016GLAT80 6.1 3.3 0.5 1.03
250 HDP725025GLAT80 6.1 3.3 0.5 1.03
320 HDP725032GLAT80 7.9 4.5 0.5 1.03
400 HDP725040GLAT80 7.9 4.5 0.5 1.03
500 HDP725050GLAT80 7.9 4.5 0.5 1.03

One other worry of mine is the spec sheets themselves... did I find the most "current" ones, and would it make any real difference if they weren't current... or am I just worrying too much?

Any educated or experienced insight will be most welcome!
post #3124 of 25403
Thanks...looking at the Seagate specs, I was wondering due to the additonal quarter inch in height but that's OK since you found there is extra room in the case. In moving up to the 250GB, I wasn't sure if the watt usage going from 5 to 8.2 and 4.8 to 9.3 was considered a significant increase or that's negligible in the overall scheme of things.
post #3125 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by rec630 View Post

Thanks...looking at the Seagate specs, I was wondering due to the additonal quarter inch in height but that's OK since you found there is extra room in the case. In moving up to the 250GB, I wasn't sure if the watt usage going from 5 to 8.2 and 4.8 to 9.3 was considered a significant increase or that's negligible in the overall scheme of things.

Alternative is use standalone case w/power supply
http://www.servercase.com/
do seach for part number.
Case: CK7021 (80 watt PS)
Removable Rack:KF21
post #3126 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rec630 View Post

Thanks...looking at the Seagate specs, I was wondering due to the additonal quarter inch in height but that's OK since you found there is extra room in the case. In moving up to the 250GB, I wasn't sure if the watt usage going from 5 to 8.2 and 4.8 to 9.3 was considered a significant increase or that's negligible in the overall scheme of things.

Exactly why I posted my concerns above... I don't think we'll know until someone tries an upgraded size drawing more power. Dartman replaced his 3575 drive with a 250, but not the Seagate and I'm not sure he knows what the power draw of that drive is... hope he kept its specs so at least we'll have a clue?
post #3127 of 25403
Hi all,

I just got my shiny new 3576 set up this week. It's running alongside my old workhorse Toshiba RD-XS32 (which I now have connected to a DTV converter box for future use). The 3576 was pretty much a drop-in replacement for a Philips DVD Player I used to use.

I'm pretty happy with how it works, but I have a question: My 3576 makes a couple of noticeable clicks when turned on (manually or via timer), while the initial power-on Philips title screen is shown. Is this normal? I'm not sure if the sound is coming from the hard drive or the DVD mechanism, but it does concern me. Otherwise, the unit seems to work perfectly so far.

[I had a fun time just getting it in the first place, but let's not go there! ]

Aimhere
post #3128 of 25403
Thread Starter 
I think you're hearing the "normal-to-my-3575's" startup series of "calunks"... first two calunks, then a third calunk... coming from the DVD drive looking for a disc, then just calunking one more time FTHOI, I guess.
The HDD startup also occurs during that time, so someone else might hear some HDD startup whirring.

So a calunk-calunk...calunk...whirrrrrrrr is good... or maybe it's a calunk-calunk... whirrrrrr... calunk!?
post #3129 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

I think you're hearing the "normal-to-my-3575's" startup series of "calunks"... first two calunks, then a third calunk... coming from the DVD drive looking for a disc, then just calunking one more time FTHOI, I guess.
The HDD startup also occurs during that time, so someone else might hear some HDD startup whirring.

So a calunk-calunk...calunk...whirrrrrrrr is good... or maybe it's a calunk-calunk... whirrrrrr... calunk!?

Hi wajo
My H2160 makes the same sound, also a whirring sound when you first start a HSD, IMO normal
post #3130 of 25403
I found the page that has the specs for the 250 I use, at least it appears to be the right one has they have SATA and EIDE versions up to 32 meg cache.
This page is for the IDE 2 meg 7200rpm one http://www.wdc.com/en/products/produ...41&language=en

Power Dissipation
Read/Write 8.60 Watts
Idle 8.10 Watts
Standby 1.10 Watts
Sleep 1.00 Watts
post #3131 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Exactly why I posted my concerns above... I don't think we'll know until someone tries an upgraded size drawing more power. Dartman replaced his 3575 drive with a 250, but not the Seagate and I'm not sure he knows what the power draw of that drive is... hope he kept its specs so at least we'll have a clue?

I looked at the 3576 alternative drive (WesternDigital) specs which might be of interest if it was used in some of the Philips models as hinted at in the parts list.

http://www.wdc.com/en/products/produ...sp?driveid=291

WD1600AVBB

English
Height 1.028 Inches
Length 5.787 Inches
Width 4.00 Inches
Weight 1.07 Pounds

Metric
Height 25.4 mm
Length 147 mm
Width 101.6 mm
Weight 0.485 kg

Power Dissipation
Read/Write 6.61 Watts
Idle 6.24 Watts
Standby 0.97 Watts
Sleep 0.97 Watts
post #3132 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

I'm thinking it didn't really move from Jonestown, PA to Bentonville, AR (perhaps the S2S sticker just gives the generic return address in case it gets lost or something). But, then again, maybe not. It took 3 days to get from Walmart.com to the Sorting Facility.

Mine came FedEx from Jonestown and the S2S return shows Bentonville. I know from FedEx tracking that it did not make a stop in Arkansas. Straight from Lewisberry PA to Lenexa KS.

Bentonville AR is WalMart's home office.
post #3133 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartman View Post

I found the page that has the specs for the 250 I use, at least it appears to be the right one has they have SATA and EIDE versions up to 32 meg cache.
This page is for the IDE 2 meg 7200rpm one http://www.wdc.com/en/products/produ...41&language=en

Power Dissipation
Rd/Wrt . . .8.60 Watts
Idle . . . . . 8.10 Watts
Standby . . 1.10 Watts

Hey, that looks pretty close to the Seagate 250GB:
Rd/Wrt . . .8.2 Watts
Idle . . . . . 9.3 Watts
Standby . . 0.8 Watts

Also, I think the one you're using is an EIDE or PATA drive, like the specs seem to show for the 3575/3576 and 2160 (GLAT on the 2160 vs GLA which is SATA).
post #3134 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartman View Post

My 880 works just fine with my 3575, it was in the data base when I first got the remote. I don't know bout all the remotes but the 880 also has learning capability for missing functions and just in case your unit isn't supported yet.

I use my Harmony 676 with the 2160 and 3576, works well. Kudos to the person who contributed to the original button set-up--did a good job, more than I can say for some other devices I've run into. I have the same button layout programmed in for both "activities" to make it easier to use. I only wish there were some way to make it perform a "go to previous TV channel" function.
post #3135 of 25403
It might be nice for us to start a list of replacement drives that have been successfully installed and how long they've been in service once installed.

That way we will not only know what will fit and format, but the relative compatibility over time.

Just a thought.
post #3136 of 25403
I don't know if it's true but I think when you teach your Logitech a new command it gets added to the data base. I can't remember if I had to teach it anything but I probably did.
They also seem to have bunches of extra buttons /functions that aren't useful or working on many devices like they just dump a generic command set for some things.
I end up having to rearrange and edit out the extra crap that doesn't do anything but take up space, then redo the buttons on the screen part if needed to be more easy to deal with.
I have a few where the power button is buried on the fourth or fifth screen
But I still love the darned thing, it makes life so much easier when all ya want to do is watch something and not have to dig up 3 remotes to do it.
My Parents love the one we got them as well and now that they know the help button works I don't get the frantic calls trying to get me to tell them how to watch a movie on something I setup so long ago I can't remember what did what either...
post #3137 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

It might be nice for us to start a list of replacement drives that have been successfully installed and how long they've been in service once installed.

That way we will not only know what will fit and format, but the relative compatibility over time.

Just a thought.

Why not stick with the same series drives that came with the machines, they are made for DVR use anything else would be pot luck IMO.
post #3138 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by auskck View Post

Why not stick with the same series drives that came with the machines, they are made for DVR use anything else would be pot luck IMO.

Do you know of any retailers selling these now? DoctorM may have a good idea if there are no alternatives available. It depends on your situation, too. If your machine is out of warranty and the HDD fails, you probably have little to lose by trying a different drive. If you have a table of drives to refer to that have worked for others, it would make your purchasing decision a lot easier.

Did anyone find the Seagate's power requirements odd? 1.1 W more used when idle than while actively reading and writing?
post #3139 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

Do you know of any retailers selling these now? DoctorM may have a good idea if there are no alternatives available. It depends on your situation, too. If your machine is out of warranty and the HDD fails, you probably have little to lose by trying a different drive. If you have a table of drives to refer to that have worked for others, it would make your purchasing decision a lot easier.

Did anyone find the Seagate's power requirements odd? 1.1 W more used when idle than while actively reading and writing?

I copied the ST# from the SKIP file chart for Seagate 160GB drive, Googled it and came up the this list of just a FEW sellers.

Once inside a seller's site, Search for any other ST#, like for the 250, 320, etc. and I think you'll find they sell others listed in the SKIP file table also.
post #3140 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

I copied the ST# from the SKIP file chart for Seagate 160GB drive, Googled it and came up the this list of just a FEW sellers.

Once inside a seller's site, Search for any other ST#, like for the 250, 320, etc. and I think you'll find they sell others listed in the SKIP file table also.

You need to click on your find list, there are many providers
example
http://www.google.com/products/catal...tle#ps-sellers
post #3141 of 25403
post #3142 of 25403
A few things I've learned / struggled with since I started to play with my new Magnavox that I thought I'd share for those of you who haven't been lucky enough to find one for sale yet.

The DV input is a bit quirky when transferring video from a camcorder. The DVD recorder begins recording after the camera has already started the film and you lose 2-3 seconds of initial footage. For some, this may not be a huge issue. Unless your video recording is shot in one continous session, you will probably have small breaks in between where there is a blue screen. When the DVD recorder senses these blank spaces, it stops recording automatically. But, when play resumes, the recorder loses ANOTHER 2-3 seconds of footage. It can add up to a lot if your video has many breaks. This does not seem to be isolated to my particular model of Sony Handycam as I read here from another poster on these forums who experienced the same thing.

My cable box has been a...uh...learning experience when used in conjunction with this DVD recorder. Since very few HD channels, in particular, are sent out through unscrambled cable, I've had to learn to deal with the frustrations. My main gripe is that my cable box, the Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3250HD, does not have the ability to set a list of shows that I would like to record. It only allows setting ONE timer at a time while allowing EIGHT very useless "Reminder timers" which simply prompt you that your show is about to start. I tried posting in my local HDTV area on AVS, but no one has any comments for me. I guess EVERYONE uses cableco DVR's now.

The last thing is also cable box related and something for others to watch out for. I had my cable box sending one video signal to my TV via DVI to HDMI and another video signal to my DVD recorder through S-Video. When I started recording a show, the box turned on and a prompt popped up saying that the cable box did not detect a signal from my TV when trying to output through DVI. It says choose another output source (thinking the TV could not receive it correctly). This dialog box really popped up because my TV was turned off, but it ruined the program because you couldn't see anything that was recording under the box where you would press a key on the remote to say "OK" to get rid of it. So, my choices, it would seem, are to not use the DVI port at all or unplug the DVI port every time I'm not planning on watching live TV and have scheduled recordings set for scrambled channels.
post #3143 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

A few things I've learned / struggled with since I started to play with my new Magnavox that I thought I'd share for those of you who haven't been lucky enough to find one for sale yet.

The DV input is a bit quirky when transferring video from a camcorder. The DVD recorder begins recording after the camera has already started the film and you lose 2-3 seconds of initial footage.

I don't have a DV camera, but I noticed that the manual instructions on DV dubbing start with plugging the DV cable in, then pressing the Source button tro select the DV input. This instruction assumes at least the DVDR is already on.

However, the troubleshooting section states that both this DCDR and the DV camera have to be ON first before plugging the DV cable into the DVDR.

It then states that, if the DVC is not recognized, "turn off the power supply for the unit and re-connect the DVC."

Not sure but it sounds like there could be handshake issues like with HDMI and, even tho you're successfully recording something, maybe there's some lack of "sync" or comm. going on cuz you're supposed to be able to control the camera with this DVDR's remote. If that were true, then there *shouldn't* be any problem with starting the rec and play functions at the same time????
post #3144 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

I think you're hearing the "normal-to-my-3575's" startup series of "calunks"... first two calunks, then a third calunk... coming from the DVD drive looking for a disc, then just calunking one more time FTHOI, I guess.
The HDD startup also occurs during that time, so someone else might hear some HDD startup whirring.

So a calunk-calunk...calunk...whirrrrrrrr is good... or maybe it's a calunk-calunk... whirrrrrr... calunk!?

Okay, thanks... business as usual, then.

Aimhere
post #3145 of 25403
Thread Starter 
In playing with my 2160, I found the "2-sec STOP button" thing is not for every STOP activity... it applies only to Dubbing and Timer Rec.

It does act diff. than the 3575/3576 only in those two areas. Here's my new writeup in the "Playback...." help file on the STOP button action.

The STOP Button

The STOP button works differently depending on the DVDR model and the activity at the time.

During PLAYBACK and MANUAL RECORDING
During Playback and Manual Recording (pressing the rec button), one press of the STOP button on the remote for all three of these DVDRs stops the playback drive and the recording drive when that drive is active or selected. When playing a DVD and simultaneously recording manually on the HDD, you can STOP each activity by selecting that drive and pressing STOP once.

During DUBBING
To STOP a dub on the 3575/3576, the STOP button on the remote does nothing... you have to press the STOP button on the 3575/3576 front panel. On the 2160, the reverse is true: you can stop a dub by pressing and holding the STOP button on the remote for 2 sec., but the STOP button on the 2160 front panel only stops playback, not a dub.

During TIMER RECORDING
The STOP button on the 3575/3576 will STOP a timer rec with one press, which is dangerous while simultaneously playing something from the HDD (but not from a DVD since that drive is the active drive). Pressing STOP once stops the HDD playback and pressing STOP a 2nd time will stop the HDD timer rec. On the 2160, you have to hold the STOP button down for 2 sec to stop a HDD timer rec., regardless of other play activity.

One other "neat" way to stop playback on these DVDRs WITHOUT affecting a simultaneous recording is to use the HDD and DVD drive buttons. Switching between these while playing a title and simul-recording stops ONLY the playback, leaving it in Resume position... recording continues unless you then press STOP. This works the same for both drives and is safer than using the STOP button while recording, esp. on the 3575/3576, since the drive buttons are far removed from the pesky STOP button (less chance of an accident).
post #3146 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartman View Post

I found the page that has the specs for the 250 I use, at least it appears to be the right one has they have SATA and EIDE versions up to 32 meg cache.
This page is for the IDE 2 meg 7200rpm one http://www.wdc.com/en/products/produ...41&language=en

Power Dissipation
Read/Write 8.60 Watts
Idle 8.10 Watts
Standby 1.10 Watts
Sleep 1.00 Watts

Is the HDD ribbon cable removable or hardwired to the board. If removable I take it is FF type (female/female)
post #3147 of 25403
A sample configuration for
Building a external standalone HDD case w/power supply
http://www.servercase.com/
do seach for part number.
Case: CK7021 (80 watt PS) Holds 2 drives Price: $70.00
Removable Rack:KF21 Price: $26.00 (not required but nice feature)

HDD
Seagate DB35.3 Series Hard Drive - ST3750840ACE 750gb $137.99
http://www.buy.com/retail/Product.as...&Category=Comp
Ribbon Cable: $3-$5 18”-24” Type IDE FF
Approximate total price $215
Pros:
Physical Drive dimensions not a problem
Power problem avoided, case has own 80 watt power supply
Unlimited recording space just add another drive
Ready to play your archived recording just swap the drive out (after power down/up)
Swap this system between 2 or more DVRs (maggie/philips) different locations
Drive 2 DVRs at the same time.(maggie/philips) requires 2nd drive and cable
Record everything in HQ mode since space is not a problem
No dubbing or messing with DVDs unless you want transferable or portable media
Cons:
At this point the format of a 750 gb drive has not been tested. IMO I think skip 0-7-9 will work.
Maybe to expensive for sum or requirement not there
Only 1 drive at a time can be connected (minor) to a single DVR

Summary:
The prices shown are ball park you may find parts that are cheaper
This configuration would allow you to have a unlimited recording libarary by just adding a drive.
I used the 750gb drive as the example because it is the largest IDE drive I know of.
Your call on what size drives to use
post #3148 of 25403
Just found two 3576s in Toronto.
If anybody in the greater Toronto area is looking for one, (another? ) I was in the Best Buy at Warden and Eglinton yesterday and they had two Philips 3576s. $349CDN. On display, not in boxes.
post #3149 of 25403
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

I don't have a DV camera, but I noticed that the manual instructions on DV dubbing start with plugging the DV cable in, then pressing the Source button tro select the DV input. This instruction assumes at least the DVDR is already on.

However, the troubleshooting section states that both this DCDR and the DV camera have to be ON first before plugging the DV cable into the DVDR.

It then states that, if the DVC is not recognized, "turn off the power supply for the unit and re-connect the DVC."

Not sure but it sounds like there could be handshake issues like with HDMI and, even tho you're successfully recording something, maybe there's some lack of "sync" or comm. going on cuz you're supposed to be able to control the camera with this DVDR's remote. If that were true, then there *shouldn't* be any problem with starting the rec and play functions at the same time????

I hooked up the DV cable while the DVC and DVDR were both on. I guess I assumed this was the right thing to do, figuring firewire would behave much like USB. When you're on the dialog screen for L3, the DVC's model number will appear in the menu options after the connection is made. This is the sign you look for to make sure the handshake was successful. As you said, both devices must be on because two way communication must be established before you can start your work.

Anyway, I did have control of the DVC with the DVDR's remote and everything seemed to work normally. For instance, as soon as I hit rewind on the DVDR remote, the camera would immediatly start rewinding (no 2-3 delays in control commands to the DVC through the DVDR). It is very nice because you don't have to fumble around trying to hold one remote in each hand and hit play on one and record on the other simultaneously. Also, when you reach the end of the recording on the DVC, the DVDR stops recording automatically and a red dot will flash on the TV screen. This is the DVDR's way of trying to tell you that it can't record because it is no longer picking up a video signal.

I'll let you know if I find some "trick" to getting rid of the delay problem, but I have a feeling this is just the way it is.
post #3150 of 25403
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

I'll let you know if I find some "trick" to getting rid of the delay problem, but I have a feeling this is just the way it is.

I've read of others with cameras that put a mark or blank spot at each point you press stop on the camera while shooting. These spots then get read as stops or "no video" by the recorder?

There is a "trick" I used in my video lab for master edit tapes that should work for this... it's called "striping."

You put a blank tape in the camera and press REC with the lens cap on. Rewind and shoot away. That stripes the tape with a continuous time code so, when you press Stop on the camera, there's still a TC in that spot that shouldn't get wiped out by the stop action?

If it works, you could have several tapes already striped for shooting?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DVD Recorders (Standard Def)
AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575