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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 24

post #691 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Yes, the Skip procedure is the same. You can set the skip amount in the Setup > General Settings > Playback menu. Click on Variable Skip / Replay and select one of five options from 5 sec to 5 minutes for each skip (fwd/replay).

Is the button labeled "commercial skip"?


Quote:
Here's the basic procedure (more details when needed) from Subject 11 for Auto Scanning for channels, which she'll need to do first:

Doing an Initial Auto Channel Preset (Scan) for Channels

To do an auto-preset, go to the Setup > General Setting > Channel > Auto Channel Preset menu and select

She only uses cable so omitted the OTA part as it will only confuse her.

Quote:
Analog/Digital even if you only subscribe to analog cable service... there are usually some digital channels in the analog feed that the 3575 can tune, and many will be downrezzed SD versions of an HD channel (with brilliant PQ that might hurt your eyes... be careful!).

Let it auto-preset for its 125 analog channels (~2 min.) and 135 digital channels (~20 min.). Analog channels will tune quickly and you'll see them on the TV as they scan in, but digital channels can take up to 10 sec each to scan and they don't appear on the TV during the scan.

Recovering from a Frozen Digital Channel Scan

If your auto-scan freezes on a digital channel, remember the offending channel number. First try stopping the scan with the Setup button; screen should eventually go blue. Switch to analog tuner. If that doesn't stop the scan, pull the power cord. Replace the screw on coax with a push-on type so you can remove it quickly during the next scan.

Turn unit on and do another Auto Channel Preset. Just before the scan reaches the bad digital channel, pull the coax and let the scan complete w/o the coax.

Note: Don't think anyone's tried replugging the coax AFTER passing the problem channel and letting the scan complete with coax on... if fast enough, you might not have to manually search for digital channels above the "sticky" one?

Chase Play (basics only)

Chase play allows you to watch a show from its beginning while it's still being recorded on the HDD. The recording needs a 3 sec. buffer before you can chase-play it, and you can only chase PLAY to within 3 sec. of the live show. That 3-sec. is the buffer needed for the HDD to write to the HDD.

With a manual or timer recording in progress,

How does she start watching a particular program? On my Panasonic the procedure is:

- Press the DIRECT NAVIGATOR button.
- A menu will pop up allowing you to select the recording you want to watch.
- If you chose the one currently being recorded, then you are now in chase play and have started watching from the beginning of that particular recording.

(Note for Wajo: On my Panasonic, just selecting the program automatically starts playback without having to press the PLAY button. Does it work the same way on the 3575? Or does she have to press the PLAY button to start watching from the beginning?)

- Continue with wojo's instructions

Quote:
- press PLAY and start watching from the beginning until you catch up to within 3-sec. of the live recording. You can also SKIP commercials, FF, etc except the ability for any fast-speed play/skip ends sooner, i.e., it only lets you PLAY when you get ~3-4 min. from the end.

You can stop the playback and return, press Play again and take up where your last playback ended. Whenever you stop the playback, the pic reverts to the live recording, so you'll lose the 3-sec. buffer of live show... it'll be in the recording, but your chase play will miss it.

When recording stops, the program is already saved on the HDD for watching again, dubbing to DVD, or deleting.

Be careful, if you press Stop twice, you'll stop both playback AND the recording!


Let's hope you get well soon!

Thank you so much Wajo! She is a novice so probably needs the additional steps I inserted. Please let me know the equivalent step-by-steps for the 3575.

Thanks again,
Skylark
post #692 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylark View Post

Is the button labeled "commercial skip"?

The button is the left-hand vertical toggle just above the numbers, with "SKIP" on top and "REPLAY" on bottom toggle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylark View Post

She only uses cable so omitted the OTA part as it will only confuse her.

Yes, she selects "Cable (Analog/Digital)" for her channel suto-preset (scan).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylark View Post

How does she start watching a particular program?

- Select HDD drive (2nd button right from top left) if not already selected or a DVD was just played.

- Press Title button (2nd button down from top right).

- Title screen pops up with 6 index pics and titles (time/date etc.).

- Option 1: Press OK button to bring up a menu that has options for:
...Resume Playback
...Play From Start
...Edit
...Title Delete
...Delete Multiple Titles
...Dubbing (not recommended cuz this is for single-title dubbing and starts dubbing directly w/o offering any options like the full-featured separate Dubbing menu under the Setup button)

- Option 2: To just PLAY a title from start (if never watched before) or from wherever she left it (in "Resume" position from last viewing), press PLAY button on that selected title. Since "Resume Playback" is the first option above, that's what the machine does when pressing PLAY instead of OK. If a title was partially viewed already, pressing PLAY starts from there. To PLAY a partially viewed title from beginning, press OK and select 2nd option "Play From Start."

- If she chooses a title currently being recorded (red dot on it), then she is now in chase play and has started watching from the beginning of that particular recording. She can also chase play directly using just the PLAY button cuz it'll always PLAY whatever is currently recording... nio menus needed.
post #693 of 25416
Thread Starter 
FYI: Someone in Ireland bought a Philips EU 3595 and had problems with stuttering, freezing, etc. and replaced it with an EU 3575 and had similar problems. The frantic analysis of his problems on videohelp.com turned up some interesting potential reasons for his problems.

Machine #1 - EU 3595
Reasonable explanation: Turns out he had it crammed into a bookcase shelf WITH NO AIR SPACE ON FRONT RIGHT SIDE, PLUS IT WAS JUST BELOW AN OLD, HUGE CRT TV, so machine was getting too hot (intake air vents are on front right side) and there was possible electromagnetic interference (EMI) altho not suspected yet (until Machine #2) cuz we didn't know of the cramming or proximity to old CRT yet.

Machine #2 - EU 3575
Reasonable explanation: Turns out he had this one ALSO crammed into that bookcase shelf with no airspace and it was directly under same CRT TV.

So, once I accused him of "DvdSlaughter" by suffocating his machines, he moved the 3575 to the top of his old, huge CRT TV, as shown here, and it started working OK for awhile, then back to stuttering, freezing, plus now failure to record as if programs were copy-protected (CP). Then he showed pics of his setup and we saw the 3575 on top of the CRT.

On a hunch, Orsetto did a test on a friend's U.S. 3575, reported here, where he placed the 3575 on top of a 32" CRT TV, AND GOT THE SAME STUTTERING, LOCKUPS, AND FALSE CP SYMPTOMS.

Hey, CP works by "disrupting" the normal video signal, and EMI can do the same, so some people may be self-CPing and not know it!?
post #694 of 25416
I bought a 3576 from my local Sam's Club on Wednesday. Put it in place of my cheapo Lite-On DVD recorder using component video inputs as the only HDMI input on my Sony KV34XBR960 is taken up by my Oppo 980H.

I am on Bright House (Central Florida) cable. Still have the analog package, but BH has many digital channels (broadcast channel digital counterparts) scattered around and my Sony picks them up and keeps them with no problems. I figure the digital tuner on my Sony is a good 4 years old in design by now.

I let the Philips scan the channels and it didn't find a SINGLE digital channel! So I re-read the manual and scanned again. This time it found three or four down in the channel 2-9 range. So I read this forum and saw a hint about manually trying to access a known channel. No luck. And then when I went to manually re-access the few channels it had found, they were no longer there! So I performed the auto scan a third time. No digital channels found!

So I took it back on Thursday. In all fairness, its analog tuner seems even better than the one on my Sony down in channels 2-3 where all my other tuners give a weak picture. The Philips tuned them in crystal clear.

I don't know what the problem is between the Philips tuner and Bright House, but I would expect a newer design of tuner to be at least as good as the tuner on my Sony. Better luck next time, Philips.
post #695 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Veritas, two questions:

1. Was the 3576 1st on the incoming coax (raw cable feed)?

2. Did you do a scan for "Cable (Analog/Digital) ...3rd option in that menu?
2nd option is "Cable (Analog)" which some have mistakenly chosen cuz they "only subscribe to analog cable"
post #696 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Veritas, two questions:

1. Was the 3576 1st on the incoming coax (raw cable feed)?

2. Did you do a scan for "Cable (Analog/Digital) ...3rd option in that menu?
2nd option is "Cable (Analog)" which some have mistakenly chosen cuz they "only subscribe to analog cable"

1. I put my incoming cable through a splitter so that it goes to my TV, my Insignia DVD recorder/VCR and my Lite-On (or my 3576) simultaneously.

2, I did perform the scan for "Cable (Analog/Digital) all three times.

Last year, I tried a Philips 3505 from Walmart. It would find most of the digital channels that my Sony would, but not at the same channel numbers. And it wouldn't hold on to most of them from one day to the next, so I took it back.

It had a build date of 02/07. I saw where later units were supposed to be better, but never saw any later manufacture dates in my local Walmarts. The 3576 I tried had a build date of 02/08, so it should have had any improvements made to the 3505/3575 in that time.
post #697 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veritasfl View Post

1. I put my incoming cable through a splitter so that it goes to my TV, my Insignia DVD recorder/VCR and my Lite-On (or my 3576) simultaneously.

For others contemplating or just getting a 3575 or 3576, please read this post for a good way to connect it in a system.

Splitters aren't needed since the 3575/76 passes thru the raw cable/antenna signal (including HDTV) to downstream components, and actually amplifies that signal slightly... people have reported a ~20% better pic on their TV's when running the incoming signal thru the 3575's coax passthru... one user reported the same thru the 3575's line input (E1). The 3575/76 can be on or off, doesn't matter, for amplification thru the coax, but has to be on for amp thru a line input.

A 2-way splitter introduces a signal loss of at least -3.7dB on each output, and a 3-way splitter generally loses -7.4dB on two outputs... assuming the splitters are reasonably high quality to start with. Those loses aren't necessary (actually counter-productive) in a typical system cuz of the amplified passthru of the 3575/76.
post #698 of 25416
Wajo,
I just wanted to let you know that Philips owes you a lot of money. Your commitment to this project is about the only reason I am going to be purchasing this unit. Thanks very much!
post #699 of 25416
Thread Starter 
durutti231, thanks, and I hope you have as much fun with yours as I have with all 3 of mine!
post #700 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

The button is the left-hand vertical toggle just above the numbers, with "SKIP" on top and "REPLAY" on bottom toggle.


Yes, she selects "Cable (Analog/Digital)" for her channel suto-preset (scan).


- Select HDD drive (2nd button right from top left) if not already selected or a DVD was just played.

- Press Title button (2nd button down from top right).

- Title screen pops up with 6 index pics and titles (time/date etc.).

- Option 1: Press OK button to bring up a menu that has options for:
...Resume Playback
...Play From Start
...Edit
...Title Delete
...Delete Multiple Titles
...Dubbing (not recommended cuz this is for single-title dubbing and starts dubbing directly w/o offering any options like the full-featured separate Dubbing menu under the Setup button)

- Option 2: To just PLAY a title from start (if never watched before) or from wherever she left it (in "Resume" position from last viewing), press PLAY button on that selected title. Since "Resume Playback" is the first option above, that's what the machine does when pressing PLAY instead of OK. If a title was partially viewed already, pressing PLAY starts from there. To PLAY a partially viewed title from beginning, press OK and select 2nd option "Play From Start."

- If she chooses a title currently being recorded (red dot on it), then she is now in chase play and has started watching from the beginning of that particular recording. She can also chase play directly using just the PLAY button cuz it'll always PLAY whatever is currently recording... nio menus needed.

Thanks so much for all the help Wajo. Like someone said below, your commitment to this thread is so appreciated.
Skylark
post #701 of 25416
Hi wajo,

I'll add my thanks to you too.

I've also got 3 of these units. Only downside I've found so far is that I can't use them on seperate Remote channels, like I do my 2 Pana units. Thus, I have to cover the fronts of 2 of them while setting up/using 1 of them.

Small price to pay for the versatility of these units.

Harold
post #702 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkaterVideoGuy View Post

Hi wajo,

I'll add my thanks to you too.

I've also got 3 of these units. Only downside I've found so far is that I can't use them on seperate Remote channels, like I do my 2 Pana units. Thus, I have to cover the fronts of 2 of them while setting up/using 1 of them.

Small price to pay for the versatility of these units.

Harold

Another triple-player! Are you using them on your 106" projector screen or a smaller display?

I ran two units together for awhile by turning one on manually, then each on/off press on the remote "toggled" the on/off sequence. Could only watch one at a time anyway. Had to be careful tho when one was recording cuz STOP button stops recording if nothing is playing on that unit. Worked OK for playing one at a time tho. Prob. too "dangerous" for long term use cuz of the Stop recording issue.

Wish they had a separate "Stop Recording" button, and unique remote codes too!

I've read of several people who use the Sony RM-VL600 from Wal-Mart but I couldn't find a logical button for 13 direct-entry buttons on the Philips remote, and my wife refused to use it when I told her she had to press "Sleep" to see the Disc menu!
post #703 of 25416
Thread Starter 



FW VERSIONS/UPDATES, LASER USE & OTHER UTILITIES

Jump To:
Using the SKIP Codes (Instructions)
SKIP 123 - Checking Firmware (FW) Versions + DVD Mfgr Media ID (MID) Utility + Hard Reset
List of FW Versions/Updates by Model
SKIP 456 - Test Modes and Copy-Protection Info
SKIP 789 - HDMI EDID DISP
SKIP 321 - Checking Laser Diode (DVD Burner) Usage
SKIP 654 - Firmware (FW) Update
SKIP 987 - Manufacturer's Process Adjustment

Using the SKIP Codes (Instructions)

Following are the SKIP/V.SKIP codes and instructions for viewing FW versions, checking Media ID (MID), FW updating, and providing system info.

With DVDR on live TV and on either HDD or DVD drive, point remote at unit and sequentially press the designated SKIP ### or V.SKIP ### buttons on the remote all within 3 sec. Press normally and don't hold any down... fast but not so fast you hit a wrong key. There are no other characters required, like dashes (in case someone posts the code with such characters).

 

For the nitpickers among us (you know who you are): The 3575/3576 have a SKIP button but the 2080/2160/513/515 have a V.SKIP button... same thing. I may have used "SKIP" here inadvertently... or on purpose just to piss you off!

 

Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

SKIP 123 - Firmware (FW) Versions... DVD Mfgr's ID (MID) Utility... Hard Reset

Three Things You Can Do with Skip 123:

 

  1. FW Version Check Only
    Firmware is the mfgr's operating system (OS) for the DVDR. To view the FW versions installed in your machine, press SKIP/V.SKIP 123 buttons on the remote, all within 3 sec. This brings up a grey screen with FW version numbers. To check DVD mfgr Media ID (MID), go to Step 2. Otherwise, exit the FW screen ONLY with BACK/RETURN button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

    Click here for a list of FW Version numbers for ref. or for copy/paste into a post.
     
  2. Mfgr Media ID (MID) Check with FW Version Screen Up
    With FW data screen still up, insert blank or recorded DVD disc. Arrow right to bring up manufacturer's media ID (MID) menu. When disc is fully loaded, the menu shows the media code. Insert other discs to check, as needed. Commercial discs just show ***. Exit MID screen with left arrow then BACK/RETURN from FW screen. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

    Click here for more info on checking the quality of discs using the MID code.
     
  3. Hard Reset with FW Version Screen Up
    With FW data screen still up, press OK to perform a "hard reset" to factory settings, which occurs shortly after you press OK. The machine shuts down and --- appears on the display. The HDD spins down then up again for 2 minutes to find clock signal, then short blue screen, then HDD spins up again for ~2 min., then down for good. Turn on after these 5 minutes or so.

    A Hard Reset with SKIP 123+OK retains recorded titles but loses:
    1. OSD Language... very important... if not "confirmed" on pop-up menu by pressing OK on "English," machine keeps asking for it.
    2. Clock.
    3. Timer rec programs.
    4. Digital channel memory (analogs remain, not sure why or if consistent).
    5. All General Settings (reset to defaults).

      Items 1, 2 and 3 will be auto-prompted, but you'll have to open Timer and Settings menus for 4 and 5.

 

A HDD Format with SKIP 079 does the same as a Hard Reset BUT it also wipes all recorded titles.

 

Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

List of OEM FW and Updates by Model

"OEM FW" is factory installed and not accessible by the user. "User Update" FW is user accessible via download from Funai and installable to update machines for problems found and solved. The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.  Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

Jump to:
3575
3576
2160
2160A
513
515
533
535
537

Version Legend:
Model = Chassis Number
DTV-S = Tuner

FE = Front End FW (loader, pickup laser and other basic jobs).
BE = Back-End FW (OSD, codec and other user-visible functions).
Pack/Mfg Date = Date unit packed on short end of outer box (Philips), Mfg Date on RH back plate (Magnavox)

3575 OEM FW and User Update

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.

 

Orig. 3575 OEM FW - Jan-Feb 2007

Model: E2H40UD
DTV-S: 0x8D
FE: R40_014_000
BE: HD4P3374CH1E
TT: T4015RDU
 
3575 FW Update - 6/18/07

FE: R40_016_000 - Improves optical drive performance.
BE: HD4P3374EH1E - Solves hang-up after attempting playback of certain unsupported JPEG formats.
Users have found that this FW Update does virtually nothing for their 3575.
Download ReadMe file & FW here.
 
Last 3575/Early 3576 OEM FW - Jan-Feb 2008

Model: E2H40UD
DTV-S: 0x90
FE: R40_026_000
BE: HD4P3374EH1E
TT: T4015RDU


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

3576 OEM FW (No User Updates)

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

Orig. 3576 OEM FW - Jan-Feb 2008

Model: E2H40UD
DTV-S: 0x90
FE: R40_026_000
BE: HD4P3374EH1E
TT: T4015RDU
 
Later 3576 OEM FW - Apr-Sep 2008

Model: E2H40UD
DTV-S: 0x90 or 0x93 (some May 08, all June 08 & beyond?)
FE: R40_026_000
BE: HD4P3374EH1E or HD4P3374HIE
TT: T4015RDU


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.


2160 OEM FW (No User Updates)

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

Orig. 2160 OEM FW - May, Aug-Sep 2008

Model: E2M01UD
DTV-S: 0x14
FE: R50_011_000
BE: HD5A23370H1E
TT: T5011RDU@2
 
Later 2160 OEM FW - Dec 2008

Model: E2M01UD
DTV-S: 0x14
FE: R50_013_000
BE: HD5A23370H1E
TT: T5011RDU@2


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

2160A OEM FW & User Updates

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

Orig. 2160A OEM FW - Mar-Jun 2009

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0x28
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269704H1E
TT: T5011RDU@4
 
Later 2160A OEM FW - Jul-Dec 2009, Jan 2010

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0x29
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269704H1E
TT: T5011RDU@4
 
1st 2160A FW Update for E19 Error - 4/19/10
Superseded by 2nd 2160A FW Update.

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0X28 or 0X29 [Whatever original Version was in that machine.]
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269715H1E
TT: T5011RDU@4 or 5 [4 is the original # for "A" machines, but Kansas_Tom's FW-updated Mar and May 09 machines are now 5. Atti might have found the reason when he did the FW update, then did a hard reset with SKIP 123+OK... the reset changed his TT Version from 4 to 5, as described here.]
 
2nd 2160A FW Update for E19 & Auto Clock Problems - ~10/22/10
Superseded by 3rd 2160A FW Update.

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0X28 or 0X29 [Whatever original Version was in that machine.]
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269718H1E
TT: T5011RDU@4 or 5
 
3rd 2160A FW Update for E19 & Autostart Problems - 12/29/10
Superseded by 4th 2160FW Update.

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0X28 or 0X29 [Whatever original Version was in that machine.]
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A26972AH1E
TT: T5011RDU@4 or 5

Click here for the download file and instructions. Save ZIP file forever for possible future use, like FW corruption or reverting to this FW after a future User Update that you don't like.
 
4th FW Update for 2160A (& 1st Update for 513) - 10/5/11

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0X28 or 0X29 [Whatever original Version was in that machine.]
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269727H1E
TT: T5011RDU@4 or 5

Click here for the download file and instructions. Save ZIP file forever for possible future use, like FW corruption or reverting to this FW after a future User Update that you don't like.

 

Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.


513 OEM FW & User Update

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

513's may have EITHER ONE of the "Early" or "Late" Model #s shown below on their back-left sticker... most likely as a result of a transition in production lots.
 
Orig. Early-513 OEM FW - Apr-Jun 2010

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0x2A
FE: R60_001_000*
BE: HD6A269718H1E**
TT: T5011RDU@5*

*Same as 2160A.
**Same as 2160A with Oct 2010 FW Update.
 
Orig. Late-513 OEM FW - Jul-on 2010
Also released by Funai as a User Update for early-513's.


Model: E2S01UD
DTV-S: 0x2A
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A26972AH1E
TT: T5011RDU@5
 
Oddball OEM FW for 513 - Mysterious FW Found in Several NEW/REFURB 513 - Various Mfg Dates

Model: E2S00UD*
DTV-S: 0x2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269726H*1E or 726V*
TT: T5011RDU@5

*There may be some of these "oddball" 513's with Model Name E2S01UD and BE FW 726V?.
Some 726H/V FW could lack the pre-titling of timer rec programs and program Skip features that SuperFW 727V has?
 
1st FW Update for ALL 513's (& 4th Update for 2160A) - 10/5/11

Model: E2S00UD or E2S01UD
DTV-S: 0x2A or Ox2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269727H1E
TT: T5011RDU@5

Click here for the download file and instructions. Save ZIP file forever for possible future use, like FW corruption or reverting to this FW after a future User Update that you don't like.


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.


515 OEM FW & User Update

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

Orig. 515 OEM FW - Sep 2010

Model: E2S02UD
DTV-S: 0x2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269724V1E
TT: T5011RDU@5
 
Oddball OEM FW for 515 - Mysterious FW Found in Several New & Refurb Units, Various Mfg Dates

Model: E2S02UD
DTV-S: 0x2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269726V1E*
TT: T5011RDU@5

*One user reports his 726V had the pre-titling of timer rec programs and program Skip features of SuperFW 727V (he updated anyway).
 
SuperFW Update for 515 - 10/5/11

Model: E2S02UD
DTV-S: 0x2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269727V1E
TT: T5011RDU@5

Click here for the download file and instructions. Save ZIP file forever for possible future use, like FW corruption or reverting to this FW after a future User Update that you don't like.
 
2012 OEM FW for Late-Model (Last) 515 - Mfg Date Feb 2012 >

Model: E2S02UD
DTV-S: 0x2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269729V1E
TT: T5011RDU@4


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.
 


533 OEM FW (No User Updates)

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

Orig. 533 OEM FW - Sep 2012

Model: E2S07UD
DTV-S: 1.0.42
FE: R60_003_000
BE: HD6A012900L1E
TT: T60004RDU@2


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.
 


535 OEM FW (No User Updates)

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

Orig. 535 OEM FW - Sep 2012

Model: E2S05UD
DTV-S: 1.0.42
FE: R60_003_000
BE: HD6A012900L1E
TT: T60004RDU@2


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.
 


537 OEM FW (No User Updates)

Press SKIP 123 to see your current FW Versions screen. Exit only with BACK button. Don't press OK unless you want to do a hard reset.

The latest FW includes all previous (cumulative) changes.
 

Orig. 537 OEM FW - Sep 2012

Model: E2S08UD
DTV-S: 1.0.42
FE: R60_003_000
BE: HD6A012900L1E
TT: T6004RDU@2


Go back to FW list. ...... Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

SKIP 456 - Test Modes and Copy-Protection Info

 

Warning: This procedure's TEST Mode can cause loss of channel tuning, timer rec programs, and all recorded titles, but that can be avoided... if you're either very careful, or just lucky! This SKIP procedure can be a bitch!!!

 

If using this SKIP code, you should first be on a digital channel. This will start you in the DTV Mode screen, which is safe. Once the menu is open, arrow RIGHT to screens 3-1-1, 3-1-2, 3-1-3, 3-1-4, 3-1-7, which are shown below.

Exit only by turning the machine OFF.

DO NOT USE LEFT ARROW ON 1st SCREEN. If you arrow LEFT on first screen, you won't be able to turn the machine off. You'll only be able to escape by unplugging from power. However, if you do unplug, your channel memory and all recorded titles will be lost! DON'T ARROW LEFT on 1st screen of DTV Mode.

All screens shown below are for DTV Mode cuz I was on a DTV channel at the time.

Screen 3-1-3 CopyProtDisp and "00 : Permit" or "00 : Off" notations indicate that the HDD will code things it records that have NO CGMS restrictions themselves as "Copy Freely." However, stuff coming from an external source that DOES have CGMS Copy-Protection bits embedded in them will carry their original CGMS coding, as follows:

Copy-Once: One generation/copy may be made. External items CAN be copied or recorded to the HDD but can't then be dubbed to a DVD. These titles will have a slashed circle indicating the no-copy status.

CopyNever: No generations/copies may be made. External items CAN'T be copied or recorded to the HDD or DVD ever (without a "filter" between this DVDR and an external source).

CopyNoMore: One generation of copies has already been made; no further copying is allowed. This only applies to those DVDRs that can copy to DVD-RAM or CPRM-compliant DVD-RW discs in Video mode, not the Philips-std +VR mode of this DVDR.

You can read more about CGMS-A (Analog) and CGMS-D (Digital, or the "Broadcast Flag") in this Wiki article.

You can also read an interesting article here on CGMS-A vs. CGMS-D and how networks can "confuse" them (they wouldn't lie, would they?).




Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

 

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

SKIP 789 - HDMI EDID DISP

"Extended Display Identification Data" per Wiki here.

Purpose is to describe the HDTV/display audio and video characteristics to the DVDR, incl. size, pixel mapping, audio capabilities, etc. thru the HDMI connection so DVDR and TV are digitally in sync.

Exit with BACK/RETURN button.

Safe to use. 4 pp, lots of numbers. Menu searches for HDMI connection and attached TV/display. With HDMI connected, shows numbers that are "significant" but, with no HDMI (like to a 4:3 TV), all numbers are double-zeros.

First two pages from my Vizio HDTV/3575 HDMI connection shown below, rest have "00" only.



 

Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.
 

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

SKIP 321 - Checking Laser Diode (DVD Burner) Usage

For checking laser diode (LD) operating times for DVD-WR (write), DVD-RD (read) and CD (hours:min.). Safe to use anytime. Exit with BACK/RETURN button.

For HDD POWER ON time, use SKIP 079, Step 1.

Some info from this Maxim article helps explain our DVD-WR and DVD-RD times/stats. The article includes two interesting charts reproduced here: Fig. 1 showing LD Power Levels and Fig. 2 showing a Typical LD Pulse Profile. (Note: "Rewriting Pulse" and "Recording Pulse" in Fig. 2 are pointing at the lines, not the pulse points.)
 

Fig. 1 - LD Power Levels
Fig. 2 - Typical LD Pulse Profile


Our DVDR lasers are "pulsed" to produce the recorded data marks (pits) in circular tracks on a DVD. Instead of maintaining the highest Record power level during recording, it pulses between recording and "bias" power repeatedly in a "multi-pulse train" throughout the mark-creation process.

Bias is both the Standby AND the DVD-RD power level. DVD-RD time starts as soon as a disc is loaded, even if it's never played.

This "pulsing read-write" or "bias-record" power profile explains why our Skip 321 procedure shows both DVD-WR and DVD-RD times when recording or dubbing to a DVD, where we might expect there to be only DVD-WR time. Of course, just playing DVDs adds only to the DVD-RD time, where it's done at the bias power level.

As an option, some disc manufacturers include the variables needed to modify a DVDR's stored write strategies to best accommodate that disc. That info is in the lead-in area of their discs.

Some DVDR-stored or optional on-disc write strategies call for very short "cooling" pulses, which reduce LD power to the bias level, further adding to the DVD-RD stats.

Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

SKIP 654 - FW Update

After SKIP 654, tray opens for update data disc. Load disc and close tray. Detailed instructions come with disc or FW download... follow them closely.

Initial reading/loading a FW Update disc can take a minute or two before you see an update progress % count-up, so be patient.

Upon successful upload, exit by unplugging power for 30 sec. Tray stays open. After 30 sec, replug power, turn machine on, tray retracts after a few sec. ONLY THEN IS THE FW UPLOAD PROCESS FULLY COMPLETED!

You can have multiple FW updates on a disc if they're ALL for the same specific machine. After loading the disc, the machine should ask you which FW Version you want to install.

If new FW is on two or more discs, after 1st FW disc uploads, ignore instruction to "turn unit off"... normal procedure is to unplug from power, then replug and upload next disc IN THE ORDER SPECIFIED IN THE FW INSTRUCTIONS.

Also, you'll have to redo SETUP from scratch since a FW update wipes channel memory, setup options, and timer programs. (One good way to really "clean house"?)

Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

SKIP 987 - Manufacturer's Process Adjustment

"Please insert DVD-R"
"DVD-R --"
"DVD+R --"

Menu begins by searching for something (does same when searching for digital tuner)... you can see the background pic get fuzzy, then clear up. If you don't insert a blank -R disc, it waits and can't be exited except by unplugging for a sec. To actually perform a "Mfgr's Process Adjustment":

  1. Make sure you've got a blank DVD-R and a DVD+R disc before starting or you won't be able to complete this process and exit normally.
  2. Press SKIP 987 on remote. "Manufacturer's Process Adjustment" screen pops up over TV pic. Wait till background pic clears up.
  3. With "Please insert DVD-R" on screen, insert blank DVD-R. It automatically does 4 "adjustments" with that disc, with chasing lines in display, while it says "Adjusting by DVD-R." After test, "DVD-R OK" appears.
  4.  
  5. Menu says "Please end by P-OFF key." Remove disc, press Power button, and machine shuts down normally.

 

Use at your own risk. If you get stuck, unplug unit for a sec, which exits the menu.

 

Not sure what it did when it was "adjusting" with the discs but apparently harmless since all disc ops were still OK. Recorded to my test disc and HS dubbed a program to it. All normal-normal. Several other people have tried this code for problem discs and it had no effect.

One person with disc-reading problems did this test and the DVD-R showed as "NG.".Obviously, it didn't "fix" his machine, only confirmed that he had a disc-reading problem.

Make sure you insert the type of BLANK disc it asks for: -R first then +R! For one test, when the -R prompt appeared, I inserted a double-sided commercial movie that had trouble loading. The test took longer than a blank does, and eventually showed "CHANGE DISC" on screen and "Err 2" on front panel. Inserted blank -R and the adjustment tests proceeded normally.

Go back to page list. ...... Go to main list of help files.



Edited by wajo - 9/3/13 at 12:26pm
post #704 of 25416
I also just wanted to jump in here and give a really big Thanks to Wajo for all his info and postings! Friday I picked up the 3576 that my Sam's club had just got in and I am loving it so far. Have not had a chance to play too much with it yet but I read all your info before I opened the box and it sold me that I made the right choice with my purchase. You sir have posted a lot of valuable info!
post #705 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by neillj View Post

I also just wanted to jump in here and give a really big Thanks to Wajo for all his info and postings! Friday I picked up the 3576 that my Sam's club had just got in and I am loving it so far. Have not had a chance to play too much with it yet but I read all your info before I opened the box and it sold me that I made the right choice with my purchase. You sir have posted a lot of valuable info!

You're entirely welcome, and thanks for reading my long-winded stuff! I really appreciate knowing that it has helped some people get better acquainted with these nice machines... my purpose all along.

Please let us know what you think of the new 3576, what your system setup is and, for me, how the digital tuner works in your system... esp. if you're an analog cable subscriber!
post #706 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

You're entirely welcome, and thanks for reading my long-winded stuff! I really appreciate knowing that it has helped some people get better acquainted with these nice machines... my purpose all along.

Please let us know what you think of the new 3576, what your system setup is and, for me, how the digital tuner works in your system... esp. if you're an analog cable subscriber!

I will do a quickie reply for now. I am an analog cable subscriber. Insight communications. Long story short (or I will try anway) my old samsung dvd/vhs recorder was hooked up with s-video. It crapped out a couple of weeks ago. I never use the vhs anymore so I figured I would go with a non combo this time. I wanted one with a hard drive. It was then I discovered that the selection for those is pretty tiny. None in any of my local stores.
I ended up picking up a panny combo EZ something or another at sam's club. It was upconverting and all.
Let me backtrack just quickly. In Feb I replaced my old Toshiba 32 inch CRT tv with a 65 inch mits DLP and was introduced to the HD tv world and love it. It picks up all of my local digital stations via my cable. I have no ant run to it. This is getting long and I apologize! I had a splitter on the old dvd recorder. My mits I just select inputs anyway and my pic was fine so I was happy. The old recoder had no digital tuner.
So back to the panny. I did not really need an upconverting one as I have a toshiba upconverting stand alone already I watch all my commercial movies on. I hooked it up via HDMI and the digital stations it found were great but all of the analog stations were unwatchable! I then switched it back to s-video and the pic for the analog was much improved but i was not happy.
I then went and picked up a 120 buck mag unit from sams before returning the panny. It was so stripped down I hated it but the picture quality was fine for the analog via s-video. I took it back. Hooked the panny back up and just still did not like it. I removed the splitter and it did not really help. When I recordeed via the hdmi cable the analog quality was border unwatchable. I packed it up and took it back last Friday on the way to work. The electronics guy said they had just got the Philips 3576 in with a hard drive. It was 50 bucks less then what I was returning. I said let me try one out.
So right now the 3576 has s-video hooked up to it and the digital stations are great and the analog stations are great. I tried an hdmi. Now this is just a cheap HDMI I have laying around but once more the analog stations are not that good via hdmi. They are much improved over the panny but not a quality I am happy with. I removied it all together and hooked up composite cables. Again the digi great and analog ok. Not as good as via s-video for some reason though. So that is where I am at right now. Cable goes straight into the 3576.
I will also say this about the philips. It found a hd on demand ppv station my cable company has but of course all I see is the main page about ordering via the remote. The panny nor my mits tv found that station. Also neither one of them found all the higher number digital music only stations my cable company broadcasts and the philips did. I was hoping it would find something like the espn HD station you found with yours but no such luck for me. lol. I guess I should figure out the station numbers my local company uses for all of them and see if I can manually find anything else.
Sorry for the lenght of my post! Thoughts? Are you watching/recordering any analog via HDMI?
post #707 of 25416
Thread Starter 
neillj, great post! Thanks for that.

On the PPV, I'm still not certain the 3576 coax passthru loop is bidirectional for ordering stuff thru the coax, but if you can see the main page, maybe you CAN order PPV thru the coax with 3576 1st in line. I'd like to know for sure since I think only one other person mentioned this. If you CAN'T get a signal back to Comcast to order PPV thru the coax, and if you want that, then you'll have to use a high-quality bidirectional splitter.

I'm also on analog cable, as you know, and I use Digital Composite cables to watch TV or stuff from the HDD. I use HDMI only for commercial DVDs with DD5.1 audio, etc.

I found the 3575's HDMI upconversion in my analog cable feed was slightly worse when using anything but 480p... my TV does a great job upscaling it to its native 1080p. I don't know if that upconversion works better with digital cable, OTA or satellite?

I've also got the HDMI Format set for YCbCr to keep commercial DVDs all-digital from DVD to my 47" 1080p LCD... an awesome combination!

Let us know if your 3576 is the same with HDMI or if it looks better with the higher rez outputs? Not sure they changed anything there.

I got my "digital" composite cables from Wal-Mart, RCA DT9AV or DH9AV (the latest # I think, better construction, tighter tolerances than analog cables). This preserves my composite cable feed from my analog cable all the way to the TV, w/o trying to separate the video components (like with Component or HDMI).

I'm esp. interested in whether the digital tuner holds your channels if you surf thru them, or if it loses tuning at some point. That's something ~38-40% of the earlier 3575s would do in a basic analog cable system (due to "analog interference" according to Philips).
post #708 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by neillj View Post

I will also say this about the philips. It found a hd on demand ppv station my cable company has but of course all I see is the main page about ordering via the remote. The panny nor my mits tv found that station. Also neither one of them found all the higher number digital music only stations my cable company broadcasts and the philips did. I was hoping it would find something like the espn HD station you found with yours but no such luck for me. lol. I guess I should figure out the station numbers my local company uses for all of them and see if I can manually find anything else.

You've got the exact situation I had and wrote about in the sticky subject on Scanning, and you've got the right equipment to find any "hidden" channels that might be lurking on your cable feed.

You need to compare the digital channels your digital TV gets and compare them to what the 3576 gets and, if like my system, you find for example 83.205 in your TV but no 83.x channels in the 3576, the auto-channel preset you did on the 3576 could have SKIPPED those channels cuz the 1st subchannel, 83.1 is Scrambled.

I had two hidden channels in my 3575 at 83.3 and 83.4 cuz 83.1 was Scrambled... the scan apparently passes by a digital channel group if the XX.1 channel is scrambled. (Not everyone see this situation, depends on the cableco.) That makes sense too cuz we know if you delete a digital channel like 27.1, that deletes THE ENTIRE GROUP! The hidden-channel thing is the opposite of that.

Anyway, compare channels in TV and 3576 and see if you also have some extra channels hiding somewhere?

See this post for the procedure (under the "Hidden" Digital Channels heading).
post #709 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

On the PPV, I'm still not certain the 3576 coax passthru loop is bidirectional for ordering stuff thru the coax, but if you can see the main page, maybe you CAN order PPV thru the coax with 3576 1st in line. I'd like to know for sure since I think only one other person mentioned this. If you CAN'T get a signal back to Comcast to order PPV thru the coax, and if you want that, then you'll have to use a high-quality bidirectional splitter.

I don't think he's talking about his own PPV - he found someone else's PPV. Ahh... the wonders of unscrambled QAM. He happened to scan with the 3576 at a time it was on while it wasn't on when he scanned with the TV. The audio chs are a bit of a mystery; the TV should have picked them up - unless they were added between the time the TV scan was done and the 3576 scan was done.
post #710 of 25416
Thread Starter 
On PPV again, I just found out from a 3575 user on videohelp.com that the 3575 (and 3576) coax passthru is not bidirectional, so it blocks the return path to the cabeco for ordering thru the coax.

If you have and want PPV, you'll have to use a high-quality bidirectional splitter or make other system arrangements so your cable box has a return path for ordering.
post #711 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by biker19 View Post

I don't think he's talking about his own PPV - he found someone else's PPV. Ahh... the wonders of unscrambled QAM. He happened to scan with the 3576 at a time it was on while it wasn't on when he scanned with the TV. The audio chs are a bit of a mystery; the TV should have picked them up - unless they were added between the time the TV scan was done and the 3576 scan was done.

Actually I was thinking it was just more the "ordering" page for HD ppv events. I do not know how many of those there really are. I do know that wrestlemania last month was available in a ppv HD as well as a reg ppv. I actually have not gone back any to that channel to see if the display is still there/unchanged. I will check it out tonight.
post #712 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

neillj, great post! Thanks for that.



I found the 3575's HDMI upconversion in my analog cable feed was slightly worse when using anything but 480p... my TV does a great job upscaling it to its native 1080p. I don't know if that upconversion works better with digital cable, OTA or satellite?

I've also got the HDMI Format set for YCbCr to keep commercial DVDs all-digital from DVD to my 47" 1080p LCD... an awesome combination!

Let us know if your 3576 is the same with HDMI or if it looks better with the higher rez outputs? Not sure they changed anything there.

I got my "digital" composite cables from Wal-Mart, RCA DT9AV or DH9AV (the latest # I think, better construction, tighter tolerances than analog cables). This preserves my composite cable feed from my analog cable all the way to the TV, w/o trying to separate the video components (like with Component or HDMI).

I'm esp. interested in whether the digital tuner holds your channels if you surf thru them, or if it loses tuning at some point. That's something ~38-40% of the earlier 3575s would do in a basic analog cable system (due to "analog interference" according to Philips).


I realize I typed my earlier post incorrectly. I put in composite cables for some reason and really meant I had hooked up video component cables. As I understand it video quality should go HDMI - best ,component - next best then s-video and finally the composite cables. I find, in regards to my analog stations though, its s-video best then component then hdmi. Digital of course is the "correct" quality.
Now if I understand you correctly you are only using hdmi to watch commercially made dvds, and you are not using any s or component but are using some type of "digital" composite cables? the red, white and yellow correct? I have not hooked them up at all. perhaps it would be worth my time to pick some up. I did not even realzie they came in some type of "digital" quality. Interesting!

I ended up getting tied up on a home project last night and never got the chance to play with the 3576 at all. Tonight thought I am going to surf the digital stations a bit and see if it loses any like you are talking about.
post #713 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

On PPV again, I just found out from a 3575 user on videohelp.com that the 3575 (and 3576) coax passthru is not bidirectional, so it blocks the return path to the cabeco for ordering thru the coax.

If you have and want PPV, you'll have to use a high-quality bidirectional splitter or make other system arrangements so your cable box has a return path for ordering.


Yes I am really not intersted in trying to make the ppv system work with the 3576 since I don't have digital cable anyway so really am not able to purchse these things, but if the picture shows up on its own well good for me! lol!
I am going to go back tonight and see whats up with that channel again.
post #714 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

You've got the exact situation I had and wrote about in the sticky subject on Scanning, and you've got the right equipment to find any "hidden" channels that might be lurking on your cable feed.

You need to compare the digital channels your digital TV gets and compare them to what the 3576 gets and, if like my system, you find for example 83.205 in your TV but no 83.x channels in the 3576, the auto-channel preset you did on the 3576 could have SKIPPED those channels cuz the 1st subchannel, 83.1 is Scrambled.

I had two hidden channels in my 3575 at 83.3 and 83.4 cuz 83.1 was Scrambled... the scan apparently passes by a digital channel group if the XX.1 channel is scrambled. (Not everyone see this situation, depends on the cableco.) That makes sense too cuz we know if you delete a digital channel like 27.1, that deletes THE ENTIRE GROUP! The hidden-channel thing is the opposite of that.

Anyway, compare channels in TV and 3576 and see if you also have some extra channels hiding somewhere?

See this post for the procedure (under the "Hidden" Digital Channels heading).

Actually, unless my Mits dlp did the same thing, it did not pick up any channels that the 3576 did not. Only the opposite. Perhaps I will try doing a scan again with the tv and seeing if it finds the music channels now. I am not sure what HD stations my cable system even offers with their digital package. It is woefully poor I know that! I am going to do some more poking around and seeing what I can find.
post #715 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by neillj View Post

I realize I typed my earlier post incorrectly. I put in composite cables for some reason and really meant I had hooked up video component cables. As I understand it video quality should go HDMI - best ,component - next best then s-video and finally the composite cables. I find, in regards to my analog stations though, its s-video best then component then hdmi. Digital of course is the "correct" quality.
Now if I understand you correctly you are only using hdmi to watch commercially made dvds, and you are not using any s or component but are using some type of "digital" composite cables? the red, white and yellow correct? I have not hooked them up at all. perhaps it would be worth my time to pick some up. I did not even realzie they came in some type of "digital" quality. Interesting!

I ended up getting tied up on a home project last night and never got the chance to play with the 3576 at all. Tonight thought I am going to surf the digital stations a bit and see if it loses any like you are talking about.

I think the nature of your incoming signal has a lot to do with which connection type is best to transmit that signal thru the 3575 and on to your TV. I tried all the possible cable connections for my 3575, and the digital composite cables were best for watching channels or something from the HDD with my cable service and its composite signal.

My cables are from Wal-Mart, ~$18, RCA DT or DH9AV. Philips has similar cables on the Wal-Mart rack. They show something like "Digital Stereo Audio & Video Cable." It would be interesting to see if anyone else with cable service sees the same thing I do on my 47" 1080p LCD using these "high-quality" composite cables.

The digital channel tuning test will be interesting as well.
post #716 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Two or three people have reported "lines" in the pic, ON CERTAIN CHANNELS IN THE 50 RANGE, when watching thru the tuner. I stumbled across another discussion of lines in tuner output from a RCA DRC-8030N where people have been getting horizontal lines on some channels.

TechRepair posted a good description of the workings of the RCA DRC-8030N DVDR, and he said this about "lines" from that unit's tuner:

"5A) The cooling fan in the unit [RCA DRC-8030N] does not have a capacitor in circuit, and unfortunatly is mounted near the Tuner, which has tin coated covers, not lead. This is the main cause of lines in the tuner output. A polarized 470 PF cap accross the leads to the fan will remove the line 90% of the time, be sure to solder neg to neg, positive to positve...."

Not sure if the few 3575s with lines are from the same thing, but it might be one avenue to explore if no other explanation can be found???
post #717 of 25416
Was away this weekend... Came home and the clock on my 3537 was an hour behind. I checked the DST setting and verified it was off.
Anyone come across this before?

Thanks,
Kathy.
post #718 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by katnel20 View Post

Was away this weekend... Came home and the clock on my 3537 was an hour behind. I checked the DST setting and verified it was off.
Anyone come across this before?

Thanks,
Kathy.

Do you also have Auto Clock set to OFF (1st option in Clock menu)? If not, it checks PBS twice a day (noon and midnight) for clock time, and PBS is not exactly a reliable sender of timing/TVG signals.

In fact, my state's PBS stations all go off air at 11 pm Sunday till 6 or 7 am Monday, so the Sunday midnight auto-clock signal search will meet dead air, then prob. get upset that there's no signal!

If you DO have auto clock off also, then maybe you'll have to do a reset and start with all clock settings off. (Factory reset = unplug for 10 minutes, replug WHILE holding the Standby/On button on the front of the unit.)
post #719 of 25416
Quote:
Originally Posted by neillj View Post

Actually I was thinking it was just more the "ordering" page for HD ppv events. I do not know how many of those there really are. I do know that wrestlemania last month was available in a ppv HD as well as a reg ppv. I actually have not gone back any to that channel to see if the display is still there/unchanged. I will check it out tonight.

..but is that ordering page up all the time? I thought to even get such a page a user has to initiate something on an STB - which means it's someone else's PPV you're seeing.

One other thing to check out - do the scan with the TV connected directly to the coax at the wall plate before any splits. If the cable signal is marginal and then it's split (with a poor splitter) some of the QAM signals may be too weak to pick up - especially the higher range ones.
post #720 of 25416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by neillj View Post

I will also say this about the philips. It found a hd on demand ppv station my cable company has but of course all I see is the main page about ordering via the remote. The panny nor my mits tv found that station. Also neither one of them found all the higher number digital music only stations my cable company broadcasts and the philips did. I was hoping it would find something like the espn HD station you found with yours but no such luck for me. lol. I guess I should figure out the station numbers my local company uses for all of them and see if I can manually find anything else.

To help figure out which OTA and cable stations are in your area, check out this AVS forum where people have all that info already based on user reports. Just search for your city name or area of country, like "San Francisco" AND "SF Bay Area."

Might save some time on your part.
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