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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 261

post #7801 of 23914
I need to make sure your video and audio are coming through OK from the cable box to the 2160. They should be fine now that you've got L1 set to S-Video. I want you to:
[list=1][*]Turn on your cable box[*]Turn on the 2160[*]Hit the "Source" button on the 2160 remote until the display says "L1" This is at the top next to "Open/Close"[*]Surf around your channels with the cable box remote and tell me if you are seeing anything out of the ordinary (black and white pictures, no sound, etc)


OK did this and I can hear the channels but there is no picture, is this perhaps an "S" video problem? I also left the 2160 on and went to input 7 on my tv, same thing, audio but no video.

On input 5, I get a picture (B&W) but no audio.

Last question, does this mean I have to keep the 2160 on at all times?
post #7802 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

You don't need digital coax to play DD 5.1 from a DVD movie. HDMI already has DD 5.1 output to the receiver. I don't think the 2160A output DD 5.1 from its tuner, only DD 2.1. That's why your receiver showed DD Pro Logic.

My receiver has a few digital audio inputs (coaxial and optical) but no
HDMI inputs. On the other hand, my HDTV has one HDMI input but no coaxial or optical digital audio inputs (it has one optical digital audio output which
I connected to the receiver).

The same problem also happens when I play a DVD on the 2160A. If on the receiver I select TV as the input, I get Dolby Prologic, while if I select DVD as the input, I get Dolby Digital 5.1.
post #7803 of 23914
I got my 2160A refurbished from J&R. It came with a problem in the DVD drawer. J&R did not have a replacement, so I tried to get it fixed locally by a Funai authorized service center. That was a disaster: the DVD drawer was fixed, but the unit returned with two other problems. (The repairman told me that was the first DVR he ever serviced...) I finally got a replacement unit yesterday from Funai and it is working OK.

Considering the hassle I had in getting a working unit, I'd like to purchase an extended warranty. J&R says I can get the extended warranty within 30 days of the purchase date, so that would be possible. The extended warranty J&R offers is the Repair Master from a company called Warrantec. The price is quite reasonable.

Has anybody in the forum had positive or negative experiences dealing with Repair Master / Warrantec?
post #7804 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

I need to make sure your video and audio are coming through OK from the cable box to the 2160. They should be fine now that you've got L1 set to S-Video. I want you to:
  1. Turn on your cable box
  2. Turn on the 2160
  3. Hit the "Source" button on the 2160 remote until the display says "L1" This is at the top next to "Open/Close"
  4. Surf around your channels with the cable box remote and tell me if you are seeing anything out of the ordinary (black and white pictures, no sound, etc)


OK did this and I can hear the channels but there is no picture, is this perhaps an "S" video problem? I also left the 2160 on and went to input 7 on my tv, same thing, audio but no video.

On input 5, I get a picture (B&W) but no audio.

Last question, does this mean I have to keep the 2160 on at all times?

Let's start with the last question first. Yes, you will need to keep the 2160 on at all times...but only until you get the cable box hooked up correctly on Input 5. The reason for this is because your audio and video coming from the cable box is going through your 2160 before it gets passed on to the TV. You do not have a direct connection between the cable box and TV right now (this is where the component wires will be used once we get those Y splitters).

Okay, so the 2160 says "L1" on the front panel and the TV is set to Input 7 and you're getting audio only. The next thing you should try is hitting the "HDMI" button on the remote. Each time you hit this button, you'll see the front panel display on the 2160 switch from 480p to 720p to 1080i to 1080p, then back to 480p. Modes that your TV does not support should be skipped over. See if any of these modes gives you a picture. If it does not, then I don't think there's a problem with your HDMI cable or how it is connected.

Because the audio is fine, the other culprit seems like either the S-Video cable or maybe your cable box needs to be set up to activate that S-Video out port. I don't see anything in the DCT6412 Owner's Manual that would suggest the S-Video port needs activated, though. You could quickly verify that the S-Video cable you are using works OK by unplugging it and hooking it up to something else around the house (use a different TV and another piece of electronics that has an S-Video OUT port on it).

Don't concern yourself with Input 5, for now. Just leave the TV on Input 7 and leave the 2160 turned on (to "L1") for all tests please. Try the HDMI button on the remote FIRST to try to get a picture.
post #7805 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by behindtrees View Post

My receiver has a few digital audio inputs (coaxial and optical) but no
HDMI inputs. On the other hand, my HDTV has one HDMI input but no coaxial or optical digital audio inputs (it has one optical digital audio output which
I connected to the receiver).

The same problem also happens when I play a DVD on the 2160A. If on the receiver I select TV as the input, I get Dolby Prologic, while if I select DVD as the input, I get Dolby Digital 5.1.

You did not mention with which program you've got DD 5.1 or DD prologic. When you select TV as input, was the program a local HD (which should output DD 5.1 audio)? or if you have cable, was it an analog channel which ususaly gives you PCM, therefore your receiver uses DD Prologic. I assumed your receiver is a later model, so you've set it to play 2-channel audio in Prologic, or it was default to use DD Prologic.

Also when you've selected DVD as input, were you playing a DVD movie, or broadcast program? DVD movie ususally gives you DD 5.1. OTOH, the 2160 DVR (I believe it's true for both 2160 and 2160A) tuner will output broadcast programs in 2 channel audio. If it was a local HD broadcast, likey you got DD 2.1, for analog it is PCM, therefore you'll see Prologic again.

It would be nice if the 2160A, which I no longer have so can't test it, outputs DD 5.1 audio from the tuner!
post #7806 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

Let's start with the last question first. Yes, you will need to keep the 2160 on at all times...but only until you get the cable box hooked up correctly on Input 5. The reason for this is because your audio and video coming from the cable box is going through your 2160 before it gets passed on to the TV. You do not have a direct connection between the cable box and TV right now (this is where the component wires will be used once we get those Y splitters).

Okay, so the 2160 says "L1" on the front panel and the TV is set to Input 7 and you're getting audio only. The next thing you should try is hitting the "HDMI" button on the remote. Each time you hit this button, you'll see the front panel display on the 2160 switch from 480p to 720p to 1080i to 1080p, then back to 480p. Modes that your TV does not support should be skipped over. See if any of these modes gives you a picture. If it does not, then I don't think there's a problem with your HDMI cable or how it is connected.

Because the audio is fine, the other culprit seems like either the S-Video cable or maybe your cable box needs to be set up to activate that S-Video out port. I don't see anything in the DCT6412 Owner's Manual that would suggest the S-Video port needs activated, though. You could quickly verify that the S-Video cable you are using works OK by unplugging it and hooking it up to something else around the house (use a different TV and another piece of electronics that has an S-Video OUT port on it).

Don't concern yourself with Input 5, for now. Just leave the TV on Input 7 and leave the 2160 turned on (to "L1") for all tests please. Try the HDMI button on the remote FIRST to try to get a picture.

OK, I was able to do the HDMI button, but it still didn't give me a picture.

Do you think I have a bad "S" video cable? How can I tell if I connect it to my other TV (Non HD) to a VCR/DVD combo on a 2nd TV? Should I just try that "S" video cable?

If this doesn't work, can I just put back the video component cable that I took off from the the Cable box to the 2160 until the Y splitters come?

I can't help but feel we are so close but just one or two things is holding it up.

BTW, when I switch to input 5 on my tv, I get a black and white photo but no sound. does this have anything to do with the component wires going from the 2160 to the TV?

Thanks,
post #7807 of 23914
I just purchased one of the Phillips 3576 refurbs from overstock.com for $207. So far all the functions I tried have worked correctly but I haven't gotten to dubbing, etc. yet.

My question is: The output from the tuner and from a title recorded to the HDD (from OTA) is quite dark and/or saturated compared to the signal displayed by the tuner in my Panasonic TX50PX80U. I created a custom color setting for the HDMI 1 input on the display with max brightness and reduced color to give some improvement but it's still darker than I would like.

Do I have a defective DVDR? Is there some setting I'm missing? I played around with some of the minimal color settings in the Phillips menu without much change.

Thanks for any tips, advice.
post #7808 of 23914
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardM98 View Post

I just purchased one of the Phillips 3576 refurbs from overstock.com for $207. So far all the functions I tried have worked correctly but I haven't gotten to dubbing, etc. yet.

My question is: The output from the tuner and from a title recorded to the HDD (from OTA) is quite dark and/or saturated compared to the signal displayed by the tuner in my Panasonic TX50PX80U. I created a custom color setting for the HDMI 1 input on the display with max brightness and reduced color to give some improvement but it's still darker than I would like.

Do I have a defective DVDR? Is there some setting I'm missing? I played around with some of the minimal color settings in the Phillips menu without much change.

Thanks for any tips, advice.

If you've already tried HDMI Format YCbCr, and/or RGB Normal/Enhanced, then here's a tip from the help files:

"If you get a dark pic with a 720p (768p) HDTV (check specs), don't send 720p over HDMI. Instead, try your HDMI at 480p. If you can also find a specific setting like Panasonic have under Menu > Picture > Advanced Picture > HD Size > ["Size 1" or "Size 2"], try both. Size 2 is exact pixel mapping and that's prob. your best bet to get a lighter and better pic?"
post #7809 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

If you've already tried HDMI Format YCbCr, and/or RGB Normal/Enhanced, then here's a tip from the help files:

"If you get a dark pic with a 720p (768p) HDTV (check specs), don't send 720p over HDMI. Instead, try your HDMI at 480p. If you can also find a specific setting like Panasonic have under Menu > Picture > Advanced Picture > HD Size > ["Size 1" or "Size 2"], try both. Size 2 is exact pixel mapping and that's prob. your best bet to get a lighter and better pic?"

Thanks a lot for your suggestions. I'll try them out today. I did try changing the DVDR output by trying the choices -- 480, 720, 1080i and 1080p. I saw some difference in IQ but not much in brightness. I may redo my 'tests' since the source at the time was a local news channel jumping from live to tape to commerical etc.

Update: Well after spending some 'quality' time I guess I don't have a dark picture problem. The combination of a 'darkly' lit source I was using for comparison and a title on the HDD which was also 'darkly' lit led to the confusion.

Thanks to the people who supply all the information and help out here. Happy Holidays to everyone!
post #7810 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

OK, I was able to do the HDMI button, but it still didn't give me a picture.

Do you think I have a bad "S" video cable? How can I tell if I connect it to my other TV (Non HD) to a VCR/DVD combo on a 2nd TV? Should I just try that "S" video cable?

If this doesn't work, can I just put back the video component cable that I took off from the the Cable box to the 2160 until the Y splitters come?

I can't help but feel we are so close but just one or two things is holding it up.

BTW, when I switch to input 5 on my tv, I get a black and white photo but no sound. does this have anything to do with the component wires going from the 2160 to the TV?

Thanks,

Evidence is pointing more and more towards a bad S-Video cable right now. Testing it on that non-HDTV with the VCR/DVD combo would be a good idea.

Just make sure you actually change the non-HDTV to the proper Input to see what kind of video you're getting from this suspect S-Video cable. In other words, you may get a picture and sound and think everything is fine (on Channel 3, for instance), but that wouldn't be testing the S-Video cable at all since VCR's can also work from a coaxial connection.

We must determine if that S-Video cable is bad because it seems like the video signal is not being received between the cable box and the 2160.

You can certainly put the wires back to the way they were until the Y splitters come (just so you can use your equipment until we figure things out). I don't blame you for wanting to do that at all. Just remember, you have your 2160 set up for S-Video coming from your L1 connection right now. If you want to switch things back, you must go back into the 2160's onscreen settings and tell it you want "Video" not "S-Video." Otherwise, you'll still get sound and no picture.

We are close. No doubt about it. I'm guessing it's just one thing wrong now.

As for Input 5, there may be a clue coming from the black and white picture without sound, but I'm not sure what that is telling us. It's strange to me that you get any picture at all because I don't know where the signal could be coming from if the S-Video cable is not working. I did notice you have a coax hooked in to the "Antenna IN" on your 2160. What is the other end of that coax wire connected to? Do you have a splitter with one wire going to the cable box and the other wire going to the 2160?

By the way, when you are viewing from Input 7 (no picture, but with sound), what happens when you click the "SETUP" button (3 to the left of the HDMI button) on the 2160's remote? Do you get the blue onscreen menu? I just want to make sure the 2160 and TV are communicating correctly.

If you're worried about the component wires from the 2160 to the TV messing something up, you can unhook the side that plugs into the 2160. I don't think that's going to fix anything, but it wouldn't take long to try. You really don't need those at this point. This will wipe out your black and white image on Input 5.
post #7811 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

Evidence is pointing more and more towards a bad S-Video cable right now. Testing it on that non-HDTV with the VCR/DVD combo would be a good idea.

Just make sure you actually change the non-HDTV to the proper Input to see what kind of video you're getting from this suspect S-Video cable. In other words, you may get a picture and sound and think everything is fine (on Channel 3, for instance), but that wouldn't be testing the S-Video cable at all since VCR's can also work from a coaxial connection.

We must determine if that S-Video cable is bad because it seems like the video signal is not being received between the cable box and the 2160.

You can certainly put the wires back to the way they were until the Y splitters come (just so you can use your equipment until we figure things out). I don't blame you for wanting to do that at all. Just remember, you have your 2160 set up for S-Video coming from your L1 connection right now. If you want to switch things back, you must go back into the 2160's onscreen settings and tell it you want "Video" not "S-Video." Otherwise, you'll still get sound and no picture.

We are close. No doubt about it. I'm guessing it's just one thing wrong now.

As for Input 5, there may be a clue coming from the black and white picture without sound, but I'm not sure what that is telling us. It's strange to me that you get any picture at all because I don't know where the signal could be coming from if the S-Video cable is not working. I did notice you have a coax hooked in to the "Antenna IN" on your 2160. What is the other end of that coax wire connected to? Do you have a splitter with one wire going to the cable box and the other wire going to the 2160?

By the way, when you are viewing from Input 7 (no picture, but with sound), what happens when you click the "SETUP" button (3 to the left of the HDMI button) on the 2160's remote? Do you get the blue onscreen menu? I just want to make sure the 2160 and TV are communicating correctly.

If you're worried about the component wires from the 2160 to the TV messing something up, you can unhook the side that plugs into the 2160. I don't think that's going to fix anything, but it wouldn't take long to try. You really don't need those at this point. This will wipe out your black and white image on Input 5.


OK, I think I am now favoring the cable box's "S" video not working, I tried a 2nd set of "S" video and still the same.

Yes, the menu shows up on Input 7 but still no picture.
post #7812 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Coax passthru passes whatever signal it receives, no restrictions. However, it isn't bidirectional, so any ordering of PPV/VOD or other services ordered thru the coax requires a bidirectional splitter with one output to STB and one to 3576.

I don't think the 3576 is blocking a simple data download like TVGOS... lots of people are having trouble with TVGOS right noew cuz of the digital transition... many threads here on that.

Finally have a moment to post an update. Here's some info that may help others. I have Optimum service from Cablevision. Using the coax passthru with the Philips unit, the IO Channel Guide did not work properly. I've now installed a bidirectional cable splitter, and it's working fine. I think the IO Channel Guide is a bidirectional service; for example, you can enter the date for which you want the programming guide, so information needs to be transmitted from the user to the server.
post #7813 of 23914
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smgsmc View Post

Finally have a moment to post an update. Here's some info that may help others. I have Optimum service from Cablevision. Using the coax passthru with the Philips unit, the IO Channel Guide did not work properly. I've now installed a bidirectional cable splitter, and it's working fine. I think the IO Channel Guide is a bidirectional service; for example, you can enter the date for which you want the programming guide, so information needs to be transmitted from the user to the server.

Thanks... I'll add that note to the passthru info!
post #7814 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

OK, I think I am now favoring the cable box's "S" video not working, I tried a 2nd set of "S" video and still the same.

It's time to take your old DCT3412 (2004) back to Comcast for an exchange. The newer DCH6416 (2007) and DCX3400 (2008) models have larger hard drives and better connectivity options (including an RF output).

Current model Motorola Specification Sheets and User Guides may be downloaded here:

http://www.motorola.com/Business/US-...l+QAM+Set-tops
post #7815 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo View Post

It's time to take your old DCT3412 (2004) back to Comcast for an exchange. The newer DCH6416 (2007) and DCX3400 (2008) models have larger hard drives and better connectivity options (including an RF output).

Current model Motorola Specification Sheets and User Guides may be downloaded here:

http://www.motorola.com/Business/US-...l+QAM+Set-tops


That certainly is the plan, I just need to get all of my daughter's shows off of the DVR to DVD first.
post #7816 of 23914
Ok, I am an idiot. I was just getting ready to change things back and I noticed I had the "S" video plugged into the "S" video OUT on the 2160, not the IN. I fixed it and now am able to see video and audio on Input 7. I can toggle through the HDMI, am I correct in saying I want to keep it at 480i? Isn't that the best this machine can do as far as HD output?

I did disconnect the wires from the Input 5, figured they weren't needed.

Guess now I can return the "S" video cable I picked up today at Radio Shack.

Thanks for all your help. I will let you know when the Y splitters come in.

I really need to get the stuff off of my DVR and get the new box.

You guys have been such a huge help, I can't thank you all enough.
post #7817 of 23914
Good going, back. Glad this is finally worked out.
post #7818 of 23914
I noticed I had the "S" video plugged into the "S" video OUT on the 2160, not the IN. I fixed it and now am able to see video and audio on Input 7.

Ah hah! Well, at least we had things isolated to the correct problem from all of your testing. I was really starting to wonder if your cable box had it's S-Video port disabled or something really stupid like that. I'm glad you figured it out. I was afraid I was going to have to ask you for another set of pictures and everyone was going to yell at you (or me for suggesting it).

I can toggle through the HDMI, am I correct in saying I want to keep it at 480i? Isn't that the best this machine can do as far as HD output?

You cannot output 480i from HDMI. The choices are 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p. Wajo leaves his set for 480p, but everyone's TV is different as far as which one will give you the best picture. You'll just have to experiment and see what looks best to you. The input to the 2160 is 480i. If you set it to 480p output from the HDMI, what you are doing is letting your TV do the upscaling to its native resolution (not sure if that's 720 or 1080 on your TV). When you set the 2160 to output 720 or 1080, you are letting the 2160 do the upscaling before it goes to the TV. So which has the better upscaler...your 2160 or your TV? Let your eyes decide...we can't help you with that one.

I did disconnect the wires from the Input 5, figured they weren't needed.

That's fine. Just hang on to them...you'll need them next week.

Guess now I can return the "S" video cable I picked up today at Radio Shack.

Yep.

Thanks for all your help. I will let you know when the Y splitters come in.

I really need to get the stuff off of my DVR and get the new box.

You guys have been such a huge help, I can't thank you all enough


Yeah, a new box would be nice since upgrades don't cost anything. The larger hard drive alone would have me exchanging it ASAP. I know it can take some time to get things transferred off of a full DVR. At least you'll know that once we've got you connected well, you'll have as much time as you need to complete the task.

I've heard enough horror stories from people that lost things they couldn't replace when their cable/satellite DVR died. You'll also have the satisfaction of knowing you've got your important stuff backed up to DVD. Making multiple copies of things, once they've been transferred to the 2160, is very easy...and quick with its high speed dubbing (HSD) option.
post #7819 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

Ok, I am an idiot. I was just getting ready to change things back and I noticed I had the "S" video plugged into the "S" video OUT on the 2160, not the IN. I fixed it and now am able to see video and audio on Input 7. I can toggle through the HDMI, am I correct in saying I want to keep it at 480i? Isn't that the best this machine can do as far as HD output?

I did disconnect the wires from the Input 5, figured they weren't needed.

Guess now I can return the "S" video cable I picked up today at Radio Shack.

Thanks for all your help. I will let you know when the Y splitters come in.

I really need to get the stuff off of my DVR and get the new box.

You guys have been such a huge help, I can't thank you all enough.

Boy, I'm glad you figured that out! You get extra credit for perseverance!
post #7820 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

Boy, I'm glad you figured that out! You get extra credit for perseverance!

all credit goes to all of you for putting up with me. I wish you luck in helping me cut out the commercials from shows. I tried using the method and I couldn't really figure it out.
post #7821 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

all credit goes to all of you for putting up with me. I wish you luck in helping me cut out the commercials from shows. I tried using the method and I couldn't really figure it out.

You might want to read this post to learn more about Scene Delete than what's in the manual.
post #7822 of 23914
The "Y" splitters are in, which wires do I connect to them? I plug them into the cable box audio out?, one set goes into the 2160 and the other goes into the TV?
post #7823 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck44 View Post

You might want to read this post to learn more about Scene Delete than what's in the manual.

I have figured out how to rename the title but I am having some trouble understanding how to cut out the beginning starting point as well as the commercials and the ending point. I thought I had it but nothing happened.
post #7824 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

I am having some trouble understanding how to cut out the beginning starting point as well as the commercials and the ending point. I thought I had it but nothing happened.

Front and end cuts are far easier to do than to explain. Wajo has explained the procedures very well. Follow Wajo's procedures exactly. Once you get the button pressing routine right it should become second nature. Following that, keep your eyes on the screen while editing. Everything you'll need is right there. If you think you've made a mistake press the RETURN button to get out.

At first, when I started editing on a Philips 3575 I used a single hand for editing, primarily because the buttons were so small and close together and the placement of the PREV and NEXT buttons--for moving at 10 minute intervals--seemed counter-intuitive. My thumb got so tired.

What a pleasure it was to transition to the Magnavox 2160 with a hefty remote with larger, well-spaced buttons and a better layout for transport buttons (rewind, forward, previous, next). With 2160 models I edit with two thumbs. The left thumb takes care of the cursor and OK buttons, the right thumb takes care of the transport and RETURN buttons. Only the PAUSE button--when setting up a title divide--seems awkwardly located.
post #7825 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo View Post

Front and end cuts are far easier to do than to explain. Wajo has explained the procedures very well. Follow Wajo's procedures exactly. Once you get the button pressing routine right it should become second nature. Following that, keep your eyes on the screen while editing. Everything you'll need is right there. If you think you've made a mistake press the RETURN button to get out.

At first, when I started editing on a Philips 3575 I used a single hand for editing, primarily because the buttons were so small and close together and the placement of the PREV and NEXT buttons--for moving at 10 minute intervals--seemed counter-intuitive. My thumb got so tired.

What a pleasure it was to transition to the Magnavox 2160 with a hefty remote with larger, well-spaced buttons with a better layout for transport buttons (rewind, forward, previous, next). With 2160 models I edit with two thumbs. The left thumb takes care of the cursor and OK buttons, the right thumb takes care of the transport and RETURN buttons. Only the PAUSE button--when setting up a title divide--seems awkwardly located.

Thanks, I will try it again, I did end up using the return button the first time to get out. Too bad there wasn't some type of video on YouTube to show how to do this. A picture (or in this case video) is worth a thousand words.

Wajo has done a great job in his guides, I just need to be able to follow his instructions.
post #7826 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

The "Y" splitters are in, which wires do I connect to them? I plug them into the cable box audio out?, one set goes into the 2160 and the other goes into the TV?

the single line for one y splitter goes into the L audio out on cable box, the other single line goes in the right audio out. You connect the LEFT Y branches to both the L TV audio in AND to the L 2160 audio in. Do the same process for the R audio Y out from cable box.

cable box L ----> TV L in and 2160 L in
cable box R ----> TV L in and 2160 R in

DONT try to use one Y adapter for tv and one for 2160 -- each destination needs both L and R outputs from cable box to receive stereo sound.
post #7827 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

the single line for one y splitter goes into the L audio out on cable box, the other single line goes in the right audio out. You connect the LEFT Y branches to both the L TV audio in AND to the L 2160 audio in. Do the same process for the R audio Y out from cable box.

cable box L ----> TV L in and 2160 L in
cable box R ----> TV L in and 2160 R in

DONT try to use one Y adapter for tv and one for 2160 -- each destination needs both L and R outputs from cable box to receive stereo sound.


can I use component wires or do I have to use composite? or can I use a combination of both as I think I have one of each left.
post #7828 of 23914
artwire wrote:

Quote:


the single line for one y splitter goes into the L audio out on cable box, the other single line goes in the right audio out. You connect the LEFT Y branches to both the L TV audio in AND to the L 2160 audio in. Do the same process for the R audio Y out from cable box.

cable box L out ----> TV L in and 2160 L in
cable box R out ----> TV R in and 2160 R in

DONT try to use one Y adapter for tv and one for 2160 -- each destination needs both L and R outputs from cable box to receive stereo sound.

I've corrected a typo in artwire's directions above. The most important part I highlighted in blue.

The L and R outputs from the cable box are on the BOTTOM row next to the Red/Green/Blue component video outputs.

If you don't have two pairs of red and white audio cables, you could substitute component to get the job done. The colors on your connections won't match, which could cause a little confusion if you aren't careful tracing what goes where. Speaking of which, each Y splitter has a red and white output. In your case not all of the colors were going to match anyway since you'll be using one Y as your two WHITE outputs and the other Y as your two RED outputs.

If you use your component wires for the audio connections above, are you still going to have another component wire available to hook up from the cable box OUT to the TV's INPUT 5? If not, you may be one set of wires short at the moment.
post #7829 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTownGuy View Post

artwire wrote:



I've corrected a typo in artwire's directions above. The most important part I highlighted in blue.

The L and R outputs from the cable box are on the BOTTOM row next to the Red/Green/Blue component video outputs.

If you don't have two pairs of red and white audio cables, you could substitute component to get the job done. The colors on your connections won't match, which could cause a little confusion if you aren't careful tracing what goes where. Speaking of which, each Y splitter has a red and white output. In your case not all of the colors were going to match anyway since you'll be using one Y as your two WHITE outputs and the other Y as your two RED outputs.

If you use your component wires for the audio connections above, are you still going to have another component wire available to hook up from the cable box OUT to the TV's INPUT 5? If not, you may be one set of wires short at the moment.


Thanks, I will try this connection when I get home.

Can I just pick up a pair of red/white audio cables at Radio Shack? I will have some extra $$ after I return my "S" video cable that I no longer need.

I started recording shows last night so I will be attempting to edit out commercials very soon. Wish me luck with that one. I hope I can grasp wajo's instructions without needing too much help.
post #7830 of 23914
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

Thanks, I will try this connection when I get home.

Can I just pick up a pair of red/white audio cables at Radio Shack? I will have some extra $$ after I return my "S" video cable that I no longer need.

I started recording shows last night so I will be attempting to edit out commercials very soon. Wish me luck with that one. I hope I can grasp wajo's instructions without needing too much help.

Yes, Radio Shack will have what you need. I'd go with their cheapest stereo audio cable if I were you.

If you haven't done so already, you probably want to print out the editing section of wajo's guide to have next to you. Doing my first disc took me awhile. It's all about practice, really.
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