Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 262

I got an email from Micro Center this morning which includes this:
http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0252592 in case anyone's interested.

There's something I've just noticed about burned DVDs from my Philips 3576 - which appears very odd to me. I was trying to get some screen shots of the shows on the DVD for a printed cover. I decrypted the various VOB files and as I scroll through them I'm finding all kinds of unrelated fragments - not only content that I edited out - but content that I never even recorded - from another channel - and fragments of other shows on my HD!

The DVDs play OK and don't play this extra content but it's very difficult to find the actual disc content that is viewed to get a screen shot when there is so much unrelated material. Not only don't I understand how unrelated channels and HD recordings got in there - how does the Philips fit all this extra content on the disc? There is way more there than the 12 minute extra title that I recorded and deleted to use up the end of the DVD extra space.

I have tried the aon procedure in my 160a. It doesn't get my expanded basic and some of them say scrambled. My 3576 and tv do get these channels so maybe my tuner can't get them or cable co. has some sort of scrambled that only affects some tuners.
The tv gets 120-11 and the same channel on a philips 3576 is 120.12 and on the 160a it shows up as scrambled.

Oops.

I know that you were asking tom, but I have mine daisy chained with the original 2160 first and then the 3575.

The 3576 gets all (or most) of the QAM channels but the 2160 gets none, so the sequence in the RF chain probably doesn't matter. At least in my case it doesn't seem to.

Thanks for your questions. even though I typical have them daisy chained. I tried a splitter for the 3576 and the 200a. They still acted the same way.

The 3576 gets most all extended channels and the 200a I think gets none.

If there is a way to get an old tuner put in let me know.

Hi guys, I have been trying to decide between the Panasonic EZ-28 and the 2160. since the prices are about the same and the 2160 has a hard disc and allows editing (even through it seems to be harder to work for the novice), I am willing to try it. One question I have is that I have a lot of +RW discs which I would like to uses, I know from the other thread that the Panasonic EZ-28 does not like the +RW, how does 2160 react to the +RW disc?

The other question I have is, so far the only 2160 I can find is from Walmart which is new but I know some of the guys prefer the older 2160 which were sold through J&R. So should I wait until J&R have some refurbished ones back in stock or just go ahead and purchase the new one from Walmart? Thanks

Thanks, Steeltown guy! Thought I proofed it, but murphey's law! Oops.

editing on the 2160 is NOT difficult....i mastered in minutes w/o reading the manual and i'm no expert/genius ...wajo has an excellent description of it but reading it that way makes it seem a lot more complicated than it really is....

after just a few test recordings/edit sessions u'll be very comfortable with it, i'm sure....

and all the refurbs will probably be the A models....thats what i got a month ago from j&r...i think most people would say the A is preferable anyways....i would wait for j&r to restock the refurbs....

and forget the panasonic, it doesnt have a hard drive...if it did then it might be tough choosing between the 2.....

Once you have a HDD recorder, the others pale in comparison (this from a long time Panasonic fan!) I think you'll enjoy the 2160A. Dont wait for an older model refurb - all the recent J & R refurbs have been 2160 A, too. I have both new and refurb - the box is different, and one of my refurbs had a better cable than the brand new unit. I think, if they have them in stock, a refurb makes a lot of sense, but you do get a longer warranty from Walmart, so it's still a good deal and you could have it immediately, vs waiting for more to show up at J & R.

Yes, you can use +RW ... I use Verbatim 4x discs with no problem. The only issue with the 2160A is that to format the disc you need to switch to L3 input first, then insert the disc for its initial use. After that it should be fine.

Do you have to do the L3 for a +/- DVD? I don't plan on using DVD+RW discs. Thanks,

After you have dubbed to -r or +r discs you will want to finalize what you have recorded so you can play discs on other machines. You will have to switch to L3 on the 2160A to finalize, otherwise you will get an error message. For +RW discs, you have to format BEFORE recording to the discs. It happens automatically upon insertion of the disc, assuming you've switched to L3 prior to inserting. Not sure about -RW, I've never used those.

Do you have to do this every time for the +RW disc or just the first time? Another word, if I copy something onto +RW, then erase it in order to record another program, do I need to format the same disc again or just for the first time?

No. You only need to format the +RW the 1st time. Later, the only option on the menu is to erase it, and it seems to finish quicker, too. Remember to switch to L3 before erasing it. I use the Sony +RW x4 (made in Taiwan), never have problem.

Thanks

I have recorded to Verbatum 4x +RW discs without first formatting on L3. Just putting disc in and letting it load. Most of the recordings were dubbed off the HD, and some off a camera sd card through L2. I haven't seen any problems yet with the disc. Am I missing something here?

which TV input should I plug in the wires to? I have already used one for the HDMI (input 7) and I have used one for my Xbox (I think 5 or 6).

The Xbox is in 6. Use Input 5.

Ok, I am back in the land of confusion...Input 5 has the component wires that I have disconnected from the 2160? How do connect the audio wires from the cable box? do I just use the red/white cables? I guess my problems stems from my not understanding how it all ties together with the Y cables from the cable box to the TV?

What am I plugging the other end of the component wires to? I get the Y L/R out to the 2160 L/R Audio In. I am confused as the other Y L/R from the cable box, do I plug the Red/White wires into the TV input 5 and have nothing in the video cables? (because I'm using "S" video to the 2160? or because the 2160 is connected to the TV via an HDMI?). Hope I am making a little sense. LOL.

Oh good. You still have the component wires hooked up to Input 5. Those go into the cable box red/green/blue video outputs on the bottom row. Now, you see how there's a red and white connection just to the left of the video ones you just hooked up (on the cable box)? I'm talking about the ones in the BOTTOM row. Those are your stereo audio outputs. Hook a Y splitter into EACH of these. Once you've done this, you'll have 4 places to hook wires into instead of just 2.

IGNORE THE COLORS on the Y splitters now. What is important is that you:

• Connect RED wires to both the red and white holes from the LEFT Y splitter
• Connect WHITE wires to both the red and white holes from the RIGHT Y splitter

What you will wind up with is two pairs of stereo wires coming off the back of the cable box which overlap one another (looks like two overlapping V's).

One pair of those wires (doesn't matter which) needs to go into the BOTTOM two holes on TV's Input 5. Here, you want to match RED with RED and WHITE with WHITE.

The other pair of wires goes to the audio IN on the 2160 (again RED with RED and WHITE with WHITE). The audio IN on the 2160 is JUST TO THE RIGHT of the ANTENNA OUT.

To test your connections, you'll want to make sure you've got picture and sound when you have your cable box ON and your TV set to Input 5. If you have a favorite HD channel, tune to that and see how the picture looks (it should be coming thru in HD quality now). To test your 2160 connections, leave the cable box ON, but switch to input 7. Hit your 2160's remote "Source" button until it says "L1" on the front. You should have picture and sound.

When you test for sound on each of the above, make sure you listen for both LEFT and RIGHT audio.

It always auto-formats the +RW disc when you insert it. You might have thought that it's only loading Did it take long (i.e. minutes) to load the disc? You can try another new disc, and watch the screen after you've put it in to see if the format message appears (only a few seconds, IIRC). If indeed it did not format the disc, then this is new information to us.

It is a 2160A mfg in 2009. It only takes a minute or two to load. I will load another one tonight and watch the screen for a IIRC message.

I never would have thought of that, thanks.

Hi all, Merry Christmas!!
This is the original purpose to get the 3575, coming from a Sony DCR-TRV480, playing my 8 and hi-8 tapes to get a DVD of them. I'm still migrating the 42 tapes and have recorded in Digital 8 and moved that over. Also moved stuff from a HDD camcorder.
Now we all know they only transfer video in real time to the DVDR (bummer yes but probably because of the tape mechanism operate speed) but from the HDD camcorder?
But that aside, what about the other "attributes" of recordings from digital transfer and digital sources?
>Should the result be HQ, SP, SPP, esp, mouse...?
>Should it be widescreen if it was to begin with?
>Perhaps knowing the base resolution of 8 and Hi-8 analog and then the HDD Camcorder would help?
>Then what is the "resolution" of HQ, SP, etc?

I can't seem to get widescreen results on the DVDR even when the HDD Camcorder says its recording and displaying on the machine in widescreen.
Image quality looks same (low res analog tv) whether HQ or SP is used to record.
Then if xfer is from a "HD" camcorder?

Thanks. Mike.

LOL. Better yet, use your phone to capture a short video clip and study it later