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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 275

post #8221 of 23784
1/28/10 at 11:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post


Guess I do need a different screwdriver - #2 posidrive. if people were using phillips head, maybe that's why the 'screws' seem difficult to remove( in other accounts) ?
I assume our machines are similar, but will the difference between posidrive and phillips screws be obvious?

Yes, there is a visible difference between phillips and pozidrive. If you look closely at cross pattern recess in the screw heads, and also the screwdrivers/bits themselves, you will see the small but noticeable differences between a phillips and a pozidrive. But for as small as it looks, having a pozidrive screwdriver or pozidrive "bit", for those who may be using a screwdriver that uses bit inserts. Can make a big difference in how easy it is to remove a pozidrive screw, without doing any damage to the screw head.

And, it works the other way around also. In that using a pozidrive screwdriver/bit, on a phillips screw. It also will not fit the phillips screw properly, and will more than likely damage the phillips screw head.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidriv







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Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #8222 of 23784
1/29/10 at 6:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydyen View Post

> As far as Syden's question about the "Protect" icon being
> On, the answer is No, though I can't think of a reason
> why having it On would affect dubbing. Am I wrong?

Yes.
DVDs are removable media and copy protection is there to prevent the recording of material to DVD. Recording to HDD is non-removable, so there are no restrictions.
It is usually the commercials that have copy-protection, not the program. Deleting the commercials will make a protected title recordable.

Then we are talking about 2 different things. I assumed you meant the lock icon that appears when invoking "Protect" from the edit menu to prevent further editing or deletion -- which I believe has no effect on dubability to DVD. You seem to be referring to another "ReadOnly" status or icon that I'm not familiar with, which prompts 2 questions:
1- How can you tell if a title is "ReadOnly" in this sense, and
2- Wouldn't deleting the commercials be something not doable to a "ReadOnly" file?
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post #8223 of 23784
1/29/10 at 8:33am
will stop by the hardware store and pick one up- thanks for the info, everyone. Reminds me of the first time I popped in Ram after being warned up the wazooo how hard it was . (but it wasn't) then next time -- feeling cocky about it) thought it'd be a piece of cake and there was no way to reach the ram
banks without disassembling or squeezing fingers flat in a half inch space and installing blindly. (anyone remember the shortlived-- and rightfully so-- mac vx ? Only formfactor I've hated in the entire lineup.
? This HAS to be easier...

Can't swap drives til I back everything up or at least watch but will save all this good info. Really appreciate the tips!
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post #8224 of 23784
1/29/10 at 10:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

that makes no sense at all (compatibility mode to finalize? Why didnt YOU think of that?

On the plus side, I guess it's going to calm the fears of people who were worrying that the steady stream of refurbs might dry up.

The Hits justa keep on coming folks!!!!!
I was surprised when I saw the last batch at around 7am and they were sold out by noon I think. It'd be interesting to see when they put the last batch on the internet for sale. The people at J&R must have a good laugh at all this attention one little Hdd/Dvd recorder is getting!
Have a great weekend all!
I'll be waiting for #7 to arrive next wednesday......
I feel like a proud Pappa!!
Mickboy
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post #8225 of 23784
1/29/10 at 11:34am
I just got a H2160 and it is working fine but I don't understand why it fines digital stations on different station numbers that my KDL-40V4100 connected to the same cable. I thought that they would be the same but they are not. Sometimes they are off by a lot or just a little and one station the KDL-40V4100 gets in digital but the H2160 does not get it. I did the thing where you add each major number station and did the scan to no avail.
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post #8226 of 23784
1/29/10 at 11:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Would this drive be what I'd be looking for to upgrade my 2080 or original 2160?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-111-_-Product

See Wajo's sticky thread note concerning Western Digital hard drives, the AA models are designed for computer use, the AV models are designed for audio/video use:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...39#HDDOther-WD
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post #8227 of 23784
1/29/10 at 11:36am
Gastrof 8225:
That drive should work fine. Just about any 3.5 PATA IDE drive will work, up to the 500G limit. Any capacity above that would be ignored by the software/hardware.
The major thing to be concerned with is the wattage consumed by the drive.
When I was looking earlier last year, it seemed that there was a 'bump' in power consumption once you went past 320G in the Seagate or Western Digital lineups. The 320G disks were very close to the factory installed 160/80's in their power consumption.
tom

p.s. Re the above post on AV vs AA models. Some one posted [where?] that the difference between the models was all in the software/firmware. I cannot verify or deny that claim, but if/when I have to perform such surgery, I will try to find an AV designated drive if they are still available using similar power.
tom
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post #8228 of 23784
1/29/10 at 11:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by networkman1 View Post

I just got a H2160 and it is working fine but I don't understand why it fines digital stations on different station numbers that my KDL-40V4100 connected to the same cable. I thought that they would be the same but they are not. Sometimes they are off by a lot or just a little and one station the KDL-40V4100 gets in digital but the H2160 does not get it. I did the thing where you add each major number station and did the scan to no avail.

Want to form a club? Or try this:

>>
Our agents are available at the number located in your Owner's Manual or by calling 1-800-242-7158. Someone will be available to assist you from 6:00 am to 9:00 pm PST, seven days a week.

Funai Service Corporation Customer Support
<<

Also, see my review on walmart.com. It just got posted.
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post #8229 of 23784
1/29/10 at 12:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickboy View Post

The Hits justa keep on coming folks!!!!!
I was surprised when I saw the last batch at around 7am and they were sold out by noon I think. It'd be interesting to see when they put the last batch on the internet for sale. The people at J&R must have a good laugh at all this attention one little Hdd/Dvd recorder is getting!
Have a great weekend all!
I'll be waiting for #7 to arrive next wednesday......
I feel like a proud Pappa!!
Mickboy


You know you need one more, mickboy ... then we can do Octomom or mel gibson jokes! J & R refurb shopping is getting a little like ebay now, snooze you lose. I think it's good they're putting them up when they get them rather than waiting for bulk stock
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post #8230 of 23784
1/29/10 at 3:20pm
McSam, 'ReadOnly' is your term, and it is misleading.

> 1- How can you tell if a title is "ReadOnly" in this sense, and

Look under Title List in your manual under Information on Editing.

> 2- Wouldn't deleting the commercials be something not doable to a "ReadOnly" file?

Like my original post said "Recording to HDD is non-removable, so there are no restrictions."
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post #8231 of 23784
1/29/10 at 3:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmwalsh0 View Post

p.s. Re the above post on AV vs AA models. Some one posted [where?] that the difference between the models was all in the software/firmware. I cannot verify or deny that claim, but if/when I have to perform such surgery, I will try to find an AV designated drive if they are still available using similar power.
tom

You can reduce power on any drive with FT, and if AV-designated sells for more, don't waste your money.

Buy WD Green, not Blue for lowest performance/power. Still plenty good enough for a PVR. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tal-_-22136358

If you really really care about power/heat reduction then go the 2.5" route.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=6544
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post #8232 of 23784
1/29/10 at 4:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydyen View Post

> I picked up this bi-directional IDE/SATA from Micro Center that
> I want to try out. I seem to remember that someone was asking
> about something like this.

The IDE connector on your bidirectional adapter is the wrong sex. This kind of adapter is intended to plug into the drive and you need to plug into the Funai's IDE cable.

Since you want to plug a SATA disk into an IDE cable, you need an adapter that pretends to be a SATA cable on one side and an IDE disk on the other, as in:

SATA drive >>> SATA cable connector|PCB|IDE drive connector <<< IDE cable

> The adapter is 2 1/4 x 1 5/8 x 3/8. There is a wiring harness
> and SATA cable inside so it does look like it will fit.

Unless the wiring harness reverses the sex, you have a problem.

> In any case, I was planning to try a 2.5 install this weekend.

No point in opening up the case until you can prove the adapter is feasible.

These posts have photo links that illustrate a problem you can run into, even when you are using the right kind of SATA/IDE adapter.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post16733428

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post16735409

My adapter's circuit board was 1 1/8"H x 4"L plus the depth of the connectors on each side. Mated to the SATA drive is about 1/4" and the mated IDE power is at least 1" plus cable bend so the total effective distance behind the drive is around 1 1/2".

The orientation of the IDE connector on my adapter meant the Funai cable had to be inserted upside down. Bad news was that the combined height of the adapter/cable mating contacted the cover.

The HDD base sits above the motherboard. With the drive upside down, the IDE cable sits above the circuit board when the bottom of the drive is just under the cover. That required raising the disk position by 3/4" which was handled by screwing a 5/8" thick piece of 4" x 2.5" wood into the base. The other 1/8" is the velcro to hold the drive in position.

I didn't bother with a grounding strap. Also, the adapter's power location wound up on the wrong side so had to extend the Funai power cable.


You're right about the sex. Thanks.

I still have time to return it so no harm done. MC has a couple of other adapters and some converter parts so I'll give them a check this weekend and see if something is workable.
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post #8233 of 23784
1/29/10 at 6:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Want to form a club? Or try this:

>>
Our agents are available at the number located in your Owner's Manual or by calling 1-800-242-7158. Someone will be available to assist you from 6:00 am to 9:00 pm PST, seven days a week.

Funai Service Corporation Customer Support
<<

Also, see my review on walmart.com. It just got posted.

Does this mean that you don't know, you have the same problem, or you don't have the same problem?
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post #8234 of 23784
1/29/10 at 6:45pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by networkman1 View Post

I just got a H2160 and it is working fine but I don't understand why it fines digital stations on different station numbers that my KDL-40V4100 connected to the same cable. I thought that they would be the same but they are not. Sometimes they are off by a lot or just a little and one station the KDL-40V4100 gets in digital but the H2160 does not get it. I did the thing where you add each major number station and did the scan to no avail.

Maybe this help file section will explain the tuning diff. you see?
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post #8235 of 23784
1/29/10 at 7:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by networkman1 View Post

Does this mean that you don't know, you have the same problem, or you don't have the same problem?

Probably have the same problem. See my earlier posts. They are only a page or two back. I have (in agreement with channel numbering) a Sony KDL-32XBR9, Sony DHG-HDD250 (3), Sanyo 15" TV, Digiwave DTV5000HD, and Samsung DTB-H260F. Also out for repair is a Panasonic DMR-EZ28K that has a problem with clear QAM recording (not tuning).

But Funai says it's not their problem. Go figure.
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post #8236 of 23784
1/29/10 at 8:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Maybe this help file section will explain the tuning diff. you see?

Probably that explanation applies to someone. It doesn't apply to "our" cable feeds. Example: for NBC HiDef, it comes in on 84.1401 or 84.401 or 84.1 depending on the device. Not a problem. But A&E comes in as 26.6101, 26.101, or 26.1 EXCEPT for the 2160 where it shows up on 26.2 and all other subchannels in the 26.x block are up by one ending at 26.11. For me, some other channels are only off by one, like Weather Channel. The remote button works fine to change to analog and all those analog channels match my other devices. If I had a cable box, my NBC HiDef channel would be 503 and cost me over $20 a month to receive. I'm lucky since those digital channels that the 2160 does not pick up are those I never watch anyhow.
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post #8237 of 23784
1/29/10 at 9:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

my fry's 3.5" Hitachi deskstar arrived today - faster than I expected for "ground' shipping. Thanks again for the heads up about that special.



My unit also arrived this evening. Be aware it's not the same unit that they advertised. I received a HDS721050CLA362 (OF10381). You better check and see what you received.

The specs of both are similar:

http://www.hitachigst.com/portal/sit...84977eac4f0a0/


http://www.hitachigst.com/tech/techl...257603007B022E


I got a 7K1000 while the advertised drive is a P7K500. The spec sheet on mine is dated 2009, versus 2007 for the P500. They claim an 18% idle power savings over the previous model although the specs don't show it. It would be reasonable to assume the P7K500 is being closed out. So it looks like the new model a keeper.
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post #8238 of 23784
1/30/10 at 8:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Probably that explanation applies to someone. It doesn't apply to "our" cable feeds. Example: for NBC HiDef, it comes in on 84.1401 or 84.401 or 84.1 depending on the device. Not a problem. But A&E comes in as 26.6101, 26.101, or 26.1 EXCEPT for the 2160 where it shows up on 26.2 and all other subchannels in the 26.x block are up by one ending at 26.11. For me, some other channels are only off by one, like Weather Channel. The remote button works fine to change to analog and all those analog channels match my other devices. If I had a cable box, my NBC HiDef channel would be 503 and cost me over $20 a month to receive. I'm lucky since those digital channels that the 2160 does not pick up are those I never watch anyhow.

Thanks for the information, I thought that I had a bad unit but I guess not. At least no worse that anyone else's.
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post #8239 of 23784
1/30/10 at 8:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ti-triodes View Post

My unit also arrived this evening. Be aware it's not the same unit that they advertised. I received a HDS721050CLA362 (OF10381). You better check and see what you received.

The specs of both are similar:

http://www.hitachigst.com/portal/sit...84977eac4f0a0/


http://www.hitachigst.com/tech/techl...257603007B022E


I got a 7K1000 while the advertised drive is a P7K500. The spec sheet on mine is dated 2009, versus 2007 for the P500. They claim an 18% idle power savings over the previous model although the specs don't show it. It would be reasonable to assume the P7K500 is being closed out. So it looks like the new model a keeper.

Good call - I hadnt even opened mine. It;s marked HDS721050CLA362 P/N(OF10381) on the drive packaging,dated Dec 2009. Assume it's the same as yours, but where do you see 7K1000? Not on the box or in the booklet? (I haven;'t opened the silver wrapping in case I need to return it)

Or, were you referring to the spec sheet?
Technical Library
Search Technical Library
Deskstar 7K1000.C Datasheet
Associated Products: Deskstar 7K1000.C
Revision Date: 09/24/09
Description: This two-page marketing document gives the basic data for the Deskstar 7K1000.C hard disk drive, model numbers: HDS721010CLA332, HDS721075CLA332, HDS721064CLA332, HDS721050CLA362, HDS721032CLA362, HDS721025CLA382, HDS721016CLA382. Includes information on: drive highlights, model, configuration, performance, reliability, power, physical size and environmental characteristics.

Seems ok to use this one in the 2160A, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone has any warnings about it. Worse case scenario, I guess it could always go into an enclosure for some other use. At 50 bucks, still worth keeping.

PS Noticed they included phillips head screws, but as I understood the docs for swapping, we are to re-use the old pozidrive screws from the 2160 when we upgrade.
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post #8240 of 23784
1/30/10 at 9:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

Seems ok to use this one in the 2160A, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone has any warnings about it. Worse case scenario, I guess it could always go into an enclosure for some other use. At 50 bucks, still worth keeping.

The 7K1000.C must be new cuz the Hitachi website still shows only the 7K1000.B and Search can't find the "C" on their site.

The C increases start/stop cycles to 300,000 vs. the 50,000 of most all other drives, and the media transfer rate of 1589 Mb/sec is embarrassingly high for our meager needs!
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post #8241 of 23784
1/30/10 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

The 7K1000.C must be new cuz the Hitachi website still shows only the 7K1000.B and Search can't find the "C" on their site.

The C increases start/stop cycles to 300,000 vs. the 50,000 of most all other drives, and the media transfer rate of 1589 Mb/sec is embarrassingly high for our meager needs!

It's a keeper. Thanks guys for the info. I was surprise, too, to get this new model, not the P7K500. I've looked for the retail version of the P7K500 just to see if it's indeed being closed out, and can only find the bare drive for sale, so I guess it is.
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post #8242 of 23784
1/30/10 at 2:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

It's a keeper. Thanks guys for the info. I was surprise, too, to get this new model, not the P7K500. I've looked for the retail version of the P7K500 just to see if it's indeed being closed out, and can only find the bare drive for sale, so I guess it is.


increases start/stop cycles to 300,000 vs. the 50,000 of most all other drives,



Guess we lucked out and this is one of those rare instances when a mix of old recorder and new model hard drive offers best of both worlds.

Got me thinking, though , as I just bought a Hitachi deskstar for my computer, but did not check the serial number of what was sent , since it was bought from a third party vendor in their quad enclosure, not sent in the original Hitachi box. For years I've relied on Seagate Barricude, but avoided them this go-round because the previous model had serious firmware issues (and the older model that I knew was still good was no longer stocked) Would not have been happy if they had swapped reliable old model for crummy new one, that's for sure. Our 2160 upgrade situation seems to be the opposite -- wouldn't it be ironic if our little cheapo video harddrive ends up with better specs than the fancier new one intended for the computer .
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post #8243 of 23784
1/31/10 at 10:19am
I used VOD from Dish to watch The Hangover and since I had it for 48hrs I decided to try to record it to my 3576 HDD. I have a Dish VIP722k connected to a A/V composite switcher that's connected to my 3576. My LCD is connected via HDMI to both the 722k and the 3576. Usually when I record something from the 722k to the 3576 I hit "play" on the 722k, then switch my LCD input to the 3576 to preview how it looks coming from the switcher (there's usually some PQ lost because of the composite connection). Anyway, once I'm see things are working OK, I restart the program on the 722k and then start up my 3576 to record.
Well, when I tried to record The Hangover using that procedure, every time I switched my LCD input to my 3576, all it would record is a blank screen. As long as I left my LCD input on the 722k, the 3576 recorded without a problem. It seems that the 722k, somehow senses that the input on the LCD has changed and blanks out the screen. When I switch the LCD back to the 722k input, the screen would still be blank, and the program was not playing. I would have to go back and bring up VOD, then My Rentals, then restart The Hangover.
This has never happened with any programs (regular or premium channels) I have recorded on the 722k HDD so I guess it has to do with the VOD and how's it stored in the 722k...Interesting, IMHO.

Ghpr13
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post #8244 of 23784
1/31/10 at 10:33am
Thread Starter 
Ghpr13, great info... I've added it to the help file for recording/copying from a STb/DVR here.

I think this shows that an HDMI connection, with its EDID and HDCP communication with an attached HDTV, can cause some "interesting" situations where HDMI should be considered in troubleshooting some rec problems, particularly when it comes to suspected copy-protection?
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post #8245 of 23784
1/31/10 at 10:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Ghpr13, great info... I've added it to the help file for recording/copying from a STb/DVR here.

I think this shows that an HDMI connection, with its EDID and HDCP communication with an attached HDTV, can cause some "interesting" situations where HDMI should be considered in troubleshooting some rec problems, particularly when it comes to suspected copy-protection?

Re your notes on the STB recording, the same situation applies to my Comcast Moto DCH 3200 stb (without DVR) . You can set the program timer (you cant set actual time -- you have to select the program you want to watch from the guide) on the STB, pad it up with some extra time before and after (so you dont see the annoying text overlay "reminders" that cannot be disabled on the Moto STB) , then set the 2160A timer for the same time and it will grab the line input. Voila. Ordinarily I just leave the STB on the intended channel if I want to record, but if there are a few upcoming shows, this timer function is very handy, even though it means you have to set them both separately. It also lets you record on demand content to the 2160 (connected by svideo to the STB) -- at least that applies to the free on demand content such as tv shows from previous weeks - I haven't tried it with pay-per-view movies, which probably have more restrictions, since I dont cusomarily rent them from cable co, but maybe someone else can address that.

Never tried to import streaming video, but I'd be curious if anyone has had any luck with that format.
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post #8246 of 23784
1/31/10 at 11:57am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by artwire View Post

Re your notes on the STB recording, the same situation applies to my Comcast Moto DCH 3200 stb (without DVR) . You can set the timer on the STB, pad it up with some extra time before and after (so you dont see the annoying text overlay "reminders" that cannot be disabled on the Moto STB) , then set the 2160A timer for the same time and it will grab the line input. Voila. Ordinarily I just leave the STB on the intended channel if I want to record, but if there are a few upcoming shows, this timer function is very handy, even though it means you have to set them both separately. It also lets you record on demand content to the 2160 (connected by svideo to the STB) -- at least that applies to the free on demand content such as tv shows from previous weeks - I haven't tried it with pay-per-view movies, which probably have more restrictions, since I dont cusomarily rent them from cable co, but maybe someone else can address that.

Never tried to import streaming video, but I'd be curious if anyone has had any luck with that format.

Man, this is good stuff!

I added a link to your post to the "TIPS" section of that help file and added names of the "tipsters" (here).
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post #8247 of 23784
1/31/10 at 12:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Ghpr13, great info... I've added it to the help file for recording/copying from a STb/DVR here.

I think this shows that an HDMI connection, with its EDID and HDCP communication with an attached HDTV, can cause some "interesting" situations where HDMI should be considered in troubleshooting some rec problems, particularly when it comes to suspected copy-protection?

Wajo,
Glad my info could be of interest to others. Looking back, this could have been why I thought I needed a Video Stabilizer to copy VOD or PPV movies to my 3576, not knowing that switching my LCD inputs was causing my 722k to cease playing the program.
Ghpr13
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post #8248 of 23784
1/31/10 at 12:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghpr13 View Post

Wajo,
Glad my info could be of interest to others. Looking back, this could have been why I thought I needed a Video Stabilizer to copy VOD or PPV movies to my 3576, not knowing that switching my LCD inputs was causing my 722k to cease playing the program.
Ghpr13

Ghpr13, I'm curious -- have you tried connecting at least one of them with a component video instead of HDMI? It might retain the high quality but eliminate the need to keep the LCD off ?
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post #8249 of 23784
1/31/10 at 12:57pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghpr13 View Post

Wajo,
Glad my info could be of interest to others. Looking back, this could have been why I thought I needed a Video Stabilizer to copy VOD or PPV movies to my 3576, not knowing that switching my LCD inputs was causing my 722k to cease playing the program.
Ghpr13

Either ceases playing the program or just not outputting it on the composite or S-Video connection that ALSO has a HDMI connection.

It might be interesting to confirm whether the STB/DVR, connected to a TV via HDMI, actually stops playing a PPV/VOD program altogether, or if it cuts off the analog output to a recorder that's connected to the TV via HDMI?

However, I guess the takeawy is to choose another DVDR output to the TV (composite or S-Vid) on this DVDR when recording PPV/VOD from a DVR?
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post #8250 of 23784
1/31/10 at 1:02pm
re above comcast timer discussion - I clarified my first comment above because I thought it might be confusing.

You cant set actual time on the STB -- you have to select the program you want to watch from the cable guide) on the STB -- if you want to start early or end late, you can either pad up the "start/end" recording settings by x minutes using the STB menu option, or if you're not watching anything just before, you can simply start the STB for the previous program. Once the STB channel is switched, it stays there til something comes along to make it change. So no need to cut it extra close for timer recordings.

Since the 2160 is so easy to edit, if you're not sure of a start time because of program overrun -- like with the recent state of the union -- you can just pad the recording on the 2160 and not bother setting the + - 3 minutes setting on the STB. (It would be nice if you could do that globally, but you have to add extra time EACH time you set up the STB to 'record' the program/ It's a shame you cant just disable it -- the message telling me the recording is about to start lingers so long, sometimes it interferes with the start of the actual program
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AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575