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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 288

post #8611 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dare2be View Post

Thanks wajo for the welcome (a couple pages back)...I need to show up here more often as this thread is very active...

When I initially set up my 3576 with just coax in/out to tv, I could see the live broadcast but not the menu overlays (like when pressing setup or info) nor could I play back HDD recordings thru the coax. Is that a hard fast limitation, or is there a way to send all output thru the coax?

Nothing internal from the 3576 can be seen thru the coax... it's just a passthru of the raw incoming signal.

You need to connect a line output from the 3576 to a line input on the TV (Composite, S-Video, Component and/or HDMI), as shown in the appropriate sketch in this help file.

The first three connection types need L/R audio as well as the video cable, as shown and described in the linked help file.

For future ref. to help files, click #1 in my signature.
post #8612 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

That's a really hard question to answer. It assumes you have an HD TV and care about (or can perceive) the difference between HD and SD. It assumes you don't have a 5.1 audio system. I do believe that $84 a year is too much unless you really like TV and want the highest quality recording. I only get local networks in HD and don't pay (more than $20/month) for total HD since my viewing of TNT, USA or FX is very light. But to record those channels in SD is perfect for the H2160 (or 3576). True, I don't have the required experience to answer your question directly, but I would pay the $7 a month. I think. I would speculate that a free hddvr probably means there will be a new model with more capacity offered in six months.

Thank you! Yes I do have a HDTV and i think i will see how SD looks before I decide t pay the extra $7. I imagine I can haggle with Directv about the free hddvr later. Thanks again!
post #8613 of 23780
Thanks again, wajo.

2 more curiosity questions:

I'm trying to understand this blurb: CAUTION: Do not connect satellite cable(s) to the ANT IN coax connector on this DVDR...sat cables have voltage that could harm this DVDR's circuits. I have a 2-room satellite receiver (DishNetwork) that sends the 2nd room signal through a coax to the other room. This is the room that I have the 3576 connected. Would the voltage issue apply here, or is it only applicable to the coax coming in from the dish roof antenna?

2nd question: I'm looking at the DV IN connector on my 3576 and the firewire connector on my computer and wondering: "What are my options for connecting the two and what if anything can I do with this connection?" I suspect my answer to this is nothing, but I just want to be sure.
post #8614 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dare2be View Post

Thanks again, wajo.

2 more curiosity questions:

I'm trying to understand this blurb: CAUTION: Do not connect satellite cable(s) to the ANT IN coax connector on this DVDR...sat cables have voltage that could harm this DVDR's circuits. I have a 2-room satellite receiver (DishNetwork) that sends the 2nd room signal through a coax to the other room. This is the room that I have the 3576 connected. Would the voltage issue apply here, or is it only applicable to the coax coming in from the dish roof antenna?

That note applies to the incoming cables from the antenna to the sat receiver. Maybe I should clarify that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dare2be View Post

2nd question: I'm looking at the DV IN connector on my 3576 and the firewire connector on my computer and wondering: "What are my options for connecting the two and what if anything can I do with this connection?" I suspect my answer to this is nothing, but I just want to be sure.

The DV input on DVDRs in North America are pretty "dumb"... one-way (in) for DV camera and playback of jpeg/MP3/WMA files. DV/1394 inputs on machines made for other countries allow playback and file transfer.
post #8615 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

just tried both titles, one at a time, with the settings you suggested. this time, the E3 error screen appeared almost instantly, the flashing box on the unit's display flashed for around 30 seconds, after which -0:59:00 was displayed. what does a negative number mean anyway? if it means i've got 59 minutes left, it sure is a funny way of presenting it. darn, more coasters !!!

tomorrow, i'm gonna HSD these two titles on the Memorex -RW with the same settings as the test i just performed. if the dubs work, it would appear like the discs are the problem, don't you think? per your recommended DVD's write-up, i understand now why the sonys are crap, but the TYs, with an MID of TYG02, they're okay, right?

thanks wajo for all the help.

hello wajo, this just doesn't make any sense at all. the 2 HSD dubs worked perfectly with the Memorex -RW disc, same one i've been playing with for the last 2 weeks. why does my unit work with this less preferred brand and crap out on the TY? aside from the obvious difference between a -RW and a -R disc, is there something else i might be missing here?

as always, thanks for your input and help.
post #8616 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

hello wajo, this just doesn't make any sense at all. the 2 HSD dubs worked perfectly with the Memorex -RW disc, same one i've been playing with for the last 2 weeks. why does my unit work with this less preferred brand and crap out on the TY? aside from the obvious difference between a -RW and a -R disc, is there something else i might be missing here?

as always, thanks for your input and help.

That really doesn't make sense, at least as far as I know, so it's time for you to check the Media ID (MID) on the discs you're using. This will give us info on that element of the trouble-shooting equation.

Here's the SKIP 123 procedure for that.

Write down the media codes that show on screen and let us know what they are?
post #8617 of 23780
Even good media can have a bad batch...
post #8618 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

That really doesn't make sense, at least as far as I know, so it's time for you to check the Media ID (MID) on the discs you're using. This will give us info on that element of the trouble-shooting equation.

Here's the SKIP 123 procedure for that.

Write down the media codes that show on screen and let us know what they are?

in desperation, i actually performed this procedure on the Sony discs, several days back. the MID was Sony, so that really makes it a little suspect, doesn't it? anyway, the MID for the TY is TYG02 and for the Memorex -RW, it is RITEKW02.

thanks !
post #8619 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

in desperation, i actually performed this procedure on the Sony discs, several days back. the MID was Sony, so that really makes it a little suspect, doesn't it? anyway, the MID for the TY is TYG02 and for the Memorex -RW, it is RITEKW02.

The Sonys are prob. OK since the MID utility can't report any codes that have more than one null (dot) and one space, and many Sony discs have codes with multiple dots, then a number. I had to check my Sonys with a free computer app, DVDDecrypter.

The TYG02 is one of the best, but the Ritek is about in the middle of the Class 2 discs listed in digitalfaq.com. It's probably OK but just not in the preferred Class 1 category.

So, it appears your discs are not the culprit. This leaves us with only a few other options besides a defective unit or FW bug. One of those is some "corruption" of the settings or the HDD, which have procedures that you could try if you can stand your settings, timer rec programs and channels (some or all) going away until you redo them.

1. Hard reset: Press SKIP 123 (as before) but Exit with the OK button.

2. HDD Format with SKIP 079, as described here.

Neither of these are guaranteed to help, so you may just opt for returning the unit for another or money back.
post #8620 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

The Sonys are prob. OK since the MID utility can't report any codes that have more than one null (dot) and one space, and many Sony discs have codes with multiple dots, then a number. I had to check my Sonys with a free computer app, DVDDecrypter.

The TYG02 is one of the best, but the Ritek is about in the middle of the Class 2 discs listed in digitalfaq.com. It's probably OK but just not in the preferred Class 1 category.

So, it appears your discs are not the culprit. This leaves us with only a few other options besides a defective unit or FW bug. One of those is some "corruption" of the settings or the HDD, which have procedures that you could try if you can stand your settings, timer rec programs and channels (some or all) going away until you redo them.

1. Hard reset: Press SKIP 123 (as before) but Exit with the OK button.

2. HDD Format with SKIP 079, as described here.

Neither of these are guaranteed to help, so you may just opt for returning the unit for another or money back.

thanks for all the help wajo. there are a couple of titles that i wanna save, which i'm gonna do the old-fashioned way. kinda ironic that my panny comes to the rescue. i'll keep you posted on the skip procedures and if they don't pan out, i'm almost certain that my unit will turn up in the near future as a J&R refurb.
post #8621 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

in desperation, i actually performed this procedure on the Sony discs, several days back. the MID was Sony, so that really makes it a little suspect, doesn't it? anyway, the MID for the TY is TYG02 and for the Memorex -RW, it is RITEKW02.

Not sure about the Sony's, but the TY discs could be fake as there were indeed reports of counterfeit TY discs out there. Doubtful, but possible. Do you have any +R discs you could test with?

Since the RW discs work, it seems that the burner itself is OK, but there is obviously a disconnect between it and the media you're trying.
post #8622 of 23780
I would certainly try some different media (known to be good) before assuming the box is at fault.
post #8623 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

Not sure about the Sony's, but the TY discs could be fake as there were indeed reports of counterfeit TY discs out there. Doubtful, but possible. Do you have any +R discs you could test with?

Since the RW discs work, it seems that the burner itself is OK, but there is obviously a disconnect between it and the media you're trying.

thanks for the input. i've always used -R discs on my panny, so i'm gonna try that first and if that doesn't work, scrounge around for some +Rs. what's a couple more coasters to my ever-growing inventory? btw, is there an ebay category for DVD coasters?
post #8624 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

thanks for the input. i've always used -R discs on my panny, so i'm gonna try that first and if that doesn't work, scrounge around for some +Rs. what's a couple more coasters to my ever-growing inventory? btw, is there an ebay category for DVD coasters?[/

I'll bet you thought that was just a joke!?

Maybe Staples will take them off your hands for $1 or so and sell them as "pre-coasted discs (no watching involved)" instead of the self-detructing kind they were contemplating back in 2008?
post #8625 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

I'll bet you thought that was just a joke!?

Maybe Staples will take them off your hands for $1 or so and sell them as "pre-coasted discs (no watching involved)" instead of the self-detructing kind they were contemplating back in 2008?

it was meant to be one. pat me on the back for keeping my humor despite the situation.

but get this, just found a Fujifilm -R and it appears to be working, at least no immediate E3 error. i'll keep everyone posted. i'd be flabbergasted if it works. wouldn't you, wajo?

btw, with the E3 error, there was an 8 digit number displayed too. any significance to that number? i haven't really been keeping track, but they seem to be different every time.

is there any way of checking if the TYs are fake?
post #8626 of 23780
I've never tried the TY discs but my Fujifilm ones record anything I throw at 'em.
post #8627 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

it was meant to be one. pat me on the back for keeping my humor despite the situation.

but get this, just found a Fujifilm -R and it appears to be working, at least no immediate E3 error. i'll keep everyone posted. i'd be flabbergasted if it works. wouldn't you, wajo?

btw, with the E3 error, there was an 8 digit number displayed too. any significance to that number? i haven't really been keeping track, but they seem to be different every time.

is there any way of checking if the TYs are fake?

I'm crossing my fingers those Fujis will do the trick... that'd still be weird tho!

AFAIK, bad media producers can probably fake an ID code since it's probably something they imbed on the disc? I know that digitalfaq.com says Sony w/o any numbers can be fake, but I'm not sure they couldn't also be fooled by the null/dot/space structure as our MID utility can? But I have to assume they're referring to Sony discs checked with a computer app like DVDDecrypter that can show the complete MID code with lots of dots.
post #8628 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by stump69 View Post

I've never tried the TY discs but my Fujifilm ones record anything I throw at 'em.

i bought a stack of 30 sometime last year. i'm down to my last few and as best as i can remember, not one went the coaster route. the only burner i have before the h2160a purchase is a panny dmr-es10.

darn, forgot about a 2 pm timer that i set over the weekend. it was about 60% complete too, oh well, i'll try again later and keep everyone posted.
post #8629 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

it was meant to be one. pat me on the back for keeping my humor despite the situation.

but get this, just found a Fujifilm -R and it appears to be working, at least no immediate E3 error. i'll keep everyone posted. i'd be flabbergasted if it works. wouldn't you, wajo?

btw, with the E3 error, there was an 8 digit number displayed too. any significance to that number? i haven't really been keeping track, but they seem to be different every time.

is there any way of checking if the TYs are fake?

Hey, I just thought of another pretty simple thing you could try... you just need one blank -R and one +R disc.

Check out SKIP 987 here and see if that might do something to "adjust" the disc process?

Probobaly won't help but simple enough to try?
post #8630 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Hey, I just thought of another pretty simple thing you could try... you just need one blank -R and one +R disc.

Check out SKIP 987 here and see if that might do something to "adjust" the disc process?

Probobaly won't help but simple enough to try?

thanks wajo, i will certainly try it and report what happens. still bummed by that 2 pm timer i forgot about, but curious - had i remembered AFTER i started the burn, could i have deleted the timer then. also, and i may be recalling incorrectly here, doesn't the dub process warn you that there is a timer rec within the hour?
post #8631 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyg57 View Post

thanks wajo, i will certainly try it and report what happens. still bummed by that 2 pm timer i forgot about, but curious - had i remembered AFTER i started the burn, could i have deleted the timer then. also, and i may be recalling incorrectly here, doesn't the dub process warn you that there is a timer rec within the hour?

Yes, on the 3575, there is a dialog that appears after the last "OK" to start that says "There are Timer Programming. Start Dubbing? Yes/No"

This will occur if any timer is within 2+ hours or so... has to be a time gap of 2:30 or more?

EDit: However, you can still start a dub... it's just a warning so you can assess how long the dub will take vs the time gap to next timer. So, if you're able to do a HSD, you only need ~17 min. for a 2-hr-SP title.
post #8632 of 23780
Has any one tried to upgrade the 160GB hard drive to higher capacity like 320GB or 500GB? Is this hard disk upgrade as easy as swapping hard drive in a PC or laptop computer? Thanks.
post #8633 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jw1218 View Post

Has any one tried to upgrade the 160GB hard drive to higher capacity like 320GB or 500GB? Is this hard disk upgrade as easy as swapping hard drive in a PC or laptop computer? Thanks.

15 documented upgrade "Pioneers" listed here with their stories, including Auskck #5 with a 5-HDD external "dock-and-play" system for two DVDRS, a 3575 and a 3576 in another room.

He required a IDE/SATA adapter but only because the 3575/3576 have IDE drives. The Mag 2160A sold by Walmart has a SATA drive, so no adaprer reqd.

Read rest of that help file as necessary.
post #8634 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

TY is owned by JVC, not TDK. See below:

Taiyo Yuden Now JVC

Thursday, 23 April 2009
DVD and CD recordable media, manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, will now be sold under the name of JVC. Microboards Technology, which serves as the primary distributor for the United States and Canada, will continue to offer the same products, but with the new branding.

"This strategy will enable a product that is already known as the premium disc in the market to be adopted by media users who are looking for a reliable brand to purchase," said Mike Laven, Microboards' VP of Sales. "With the maturation of the optical media market, media users are becoming more discerning when it comes to the quality of media that they used to store their priceless family photographs and recordings."

The change will not affect availability, and the only difference will be the name on the box and the part number. Microboards will provide easy reference guides to substituting the new part numbers as they become available. Available versions will not change, and include white and silver inkjet and thermal printable media, standard silver lacquer, and WaterShield.

The product is being managed by a new company, JVC Advanced Media USA, which is a joint venture between Victor Company of Japan and Taiyo Yuden.


Source: http://oto-online.com/index.php?opti...=1399&Itemid=1

Doh. Yes, thank you for the correction. All those 3 letter companies sound the same.
post #8635 of 23780
well folks, the Fuji HSD dub crapped out with an E3 error approx. 75% into the dub based on the progress bar. don't know if it's worth noting, but it took approx. 40 minutes to get to 75% on an HQ title that is 54.38 long, like it was an RTD. that seems awfully long based on the approximate HSD times wajo has posted for diff. rec modes. also, for what it's worth, the TY dub results in an immediate E3 error, while the Fuji dub chugged along for 40 minutes before it crapped out.

i think i may have a Memorex -R blank disc somewhere. if i find one, i'm gonna test that one too and report my findings. hopefully, documenting this process helps other members of the forum.

wajo, i've tried the skip 987 sequence umpteen times. doesn't take. by the time i press 7, it changes the channel number to 7. it almost seems like it takes the skip, 9 and 8 keys, but not the 7 key. just wondering if this is indicative of more FW type problems with my unit.

thanks.
post #8636 of 23780
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

The SKIP codes can be fussy, so just make sure you're pointing at the machine correctly and press all buttons sequentially within 3 sec.

I guess you'll have to keep trying faster/slower and make sure all keys are pressed fully... others have had some difficulty also but eventually got the proper "rhythm".

Edit: changing the channel to 7 is an indication that the button presses are too slow.

i was aware of the 3 sec rule, but apparently my fingers were not. i got thru the 987 procedure without incident. then, decided to HSD on the same Sony +R that i had just used, almost immediately got an E13. i then tried a fresh one and got an E22. then i tried the TY that i had just used, still got the E3 error, but not immediately, took around 5 minutes this time before it crapped out. popped in a new one, but this time i selected the SPP title that is 2:12:05 long. it appeared to work at first, but for 45 minutes now, it's never made it past the first progress bar. i'll give it another 15 minutes before cancelling it.

couldn't help wondering - i've been testing these scenarios with an HQ title, maybe i should try SP - or does it matter? just thought that HQ would not be the rec mode of choice by those who archive and therefore was not tested as rigorously as SP? dunno, if it sounds like i'm grasping at straws, well, i am.

is it even worth trying other brands of +Rs and -Rs or is it time to try the reset procedures?
post #8637 of 23780
Thread Starter 
Well, some have suggested trying other DVDs but the long dub sessions with only 1 progress bar suggests a machine problem cuz, with HSD, I don't think it's writing anything to the DVD at the beginning... it's collecting User Data, playback instructons, etc. from the HDD. It sounds like that's where your machine is getting "stuck."

HQ/SP shouldn't matter.

Just my opinion, but I'd try a SKIP 123 hard reset first.
post #8638 of 23780
Hi,

I have noticed discussions in the past on which type of cables to use to connect the 2160. I believe Wajo has indicated Component Video Cables work best for him. Here is some info to support that view.

Jer01




>>>>
People understand DVD copy protection and the motivation but the other one slipping into mainstream driven by the MPAA is HDMI. That great cable that allows a single wire to take HD from your source to your nice new HDTV is most definitely a trojan horse. The lie has been spread over and over that it alone produces the best HD video - why? Because it carries a special brand of digital copy protection - it makes sure that both ends - source and TV - are certified and liensed before it puts out any video. And yes both vendors have to pay exhorbitant fees and buy specific licensed chips for use in their systems - huge moneymaker. Will HDMI carry better video? No - Component video is just as good and for whole home video better by leaps and bounds but pressure by the MPAA has forced most BluRay players to reject putting out 1080p video unless it is via an HDMI connection.
<<<<

http://www.myxtender.com/wholehome/
post #8639 of 23780
Hello,

I ran across this today -- thought it was pretty neat. Has anybody hooked their H2160 to it? What do you think??


Introducing BOCS.
Ever wish you could watch your recorded shows from anywhere in your home?


http://www.bocsco.com/virtualbocs.php


BOCS : How does it work?

http://www.bocsco.com/BOCS_how.php


Potential uses:

http://www.bocsco.com/BOCS_usage.php


BOCS Extender Review by David Baldwin - AVS Forum - ~ half way down

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1080436

You can even use it to watch streaming broadcasts, or Movies, or TV replays from the internet -- on your big TV screen, instead of your little computer screen. Maybe we don't need quite as many DVDR's, or to record as many DVD's -- if we use this?

Jer01
post #8640 of 23780
I can no longer select the title list on my DVR. Any suggestions? I have called the help center and they couldn't tell me what is wrong. I love this unit and don't want to lose what I have recorded.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575