AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 34

post #991 of 23781
6/6/08 at 6:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

I went all over town to see if I could find some "cheapo" HDMI cables to try... nada.

I'm wondering, the Philips HDMI cable we both used is straight cable to the end fittings, and it doesn't have the ferrite cores like the highly regarded Monoprice.com cables have. I was looking specifically for a cable with those cores.

A cable with the added cores looks like this pic from Monoprice.com:


Does your 99-cent cable that you like best happen to have those extra cores behind the end connectors?

The philips cable was a 3ft without ferrite core. The 99-cent cable is 6 ft and does have ferrite core on each end.

BTW, I tried dark scenes from 3575 on HDMI while playing DVD with this new HDMI cable. The vertical purple lines are all gone. I could see only one such line, that too comes and goes and when it is there it is very light. So it was HDMI cable interference problem.

Also I got Incredibles DVD from library and ran THX optimizer. My contrast, sharpness, color, tint etc are all set as they should as per optimizer. Only difference is my brightness is set a bit higher than recomended. Recomended setting says that I should not 3 darkest black shades out of 10, but by my seeting I see all. If I set brightness to hide the 3 black blocks, then while watching TV and DVD I loose details in black shadows and picture is too dark. Hence I increased brightness back to where it was. My setting is 40 (out of 1 - 60), but as per optimizer, it should be 27.

My TV has Blue enhance, Green Enhance, Enhance color, Dinamic contrast control, Tint control, etc. The best picture and with natural color I get when I set those ALL to OFF. My TV also gives Lamp control 1 - 7. I have set that to 6. That really improves the picture.

Hope all this info help everybody.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #992 of 23781
6/6/08 at 6:56am
Thread Starter 
video_guy, thanks for great report(s)!

Those ferrite cores are really doing their job in your system since they're designed to reduce interference.

In a prev. post, you said you had a 42" LCD. Maybe knowing the brand and model might help other people?
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post #993 of 23781
6/6/08 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

video_guy, thanks for great report(s)!

Those ferrite cores are really doing their job in your system since they're designed to reduce interference.

In a prev. post, you said you had a 42" LCD. Maybe knowing the brand and model might help other people?

Sceptre X42GV-Naga LCD HDTV (1080P). You can read more about it at. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=13684092

Many people complain about it, but I found it to best display so far. I compared this to many others in store including Aquos, but I found this one better. Unfortunately the default setting of this TV are horrible. One just have to switch off those eg. green enhance, blue enhance, dynamic control etc . Then it becomes great display. I tried its VGA with my laptop at 1980x1280 and it was beatuiful. I tried DVI with my desktop at 1980x1280 (my desktop is now 8 years old), and in both cases text was crystal sharp even at just 2 feet distance. But I didn't want to post all this boasting and discussion of one TV vs other hence I avoided mentioning the name of TV here.
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post #994 of 23781
6/6/08 at 7:50am
Thread Starter 
video_guy, thanks for TV info.

BTW, I found a post by someone in the EU who says the USB sticks for their Philips have to be in FAT32 format and can't read Microsoft NTFS?

The only problem with this info is that EU DVDRs are more capable than similar or "identical" U.S. models. He even talks about "drivers" which our 3575/76 says is something it can't read (if the sttached device has or needs drivers)? Not sure how or whether this post applies?

Here's his post.
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post #995 of 23781
6/6/08 at 7:51am
wajo, I am nut sure if you mentioned this in your guide somewhere. There are some channels in QAM from cable operators which are on demand channels. Those are not 'on' all the time, but only in evenings when people are watching those on demand channels. One can just punch in number of those channels e.g 62 or 62.2 or 62.3 etc and 3575 will scan and tune those channel if they are not scrambled. i,e 3575 will tune those channels even if they are not in the channel list (by initial channel scan). So if you know the channels used by your operators for those on demand channels or also if you know any other channel which is not in list, just punch in the number while watching (just like you enter channel number to change channel) and voila 2575 will scan and tune to those.
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post #996 of 23781
6/6/08 at 7:54am
Thread Starter 
video_guy, great into... I'll add a link to your post for other people. Thanks.
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post #997 of 23781
6/6/08 at 8:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

video_guy, great into... I'll add a link to your post for other people. Thanks.

Just one little quirk. If somebody who is watching these channels, pauses or stops or rewinds for any reason, it does for you as well.

More over these are not the paid on-demand. These are the free on-demand which many cable operator give to digital subscribers. Paid on-demand are always scrambled.

Moreover, it is no secret that QAM tuner picking up On-Demand (you can search google or even AVS forum and you will find lots of info). Only thing 3575 brings is that it is easy to tune those on demad QAM channels.
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post #998 of 23781
6/6/08 at 8:27am
Quote:


More over these are not the paid on-demand. These are the free on-demand which many cable operator give to digital subscribers. Paid on-demand are always scrambled.

On my cable system "paid on demand channels" are not always scrambled as I have watched many recent releases with only basic analog cable.
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post #999 of 23781
6/6/08 at 8:42am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiamiV View Post

On my cable system "paid on demand channels" are not always scrambled as I have watched many recent releases with only basic analog cable.

Thanks! I've added a link to your post also.
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post #1000 of 23781
6/6/08 at 8:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Thanks! I've added a link to your post also.

Please add another warning. i.e. just be careful while tuning those channels, specially with kids. You may end up on spice channel and v-vhip will not help either. Not only just while initial tune, the content may change in middle of watching. So be extra-extra careful.

And because of this reason I rarely switch to those channels. Any way I do not watch TV much just limited to 1 - 2 hours a week or only to rented DVDs and PBS (WTTW) and weather channel.
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post #1001 of 23781
6/6/08 at 9:18am
Thread Starter 
Thanks for heads-up! I've added a WARNING to the two posts I added the On-Demand stuff:

bottom of the "Scanning" page here,

and bottom of the "Tuning" page here.
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post #1002 of 23781
6/7/08 at 6:13am
OK, which one to get?

3575 $260 from WalMart

3576 $248 + $35 membership fee, Sam's Club?

Is there anything improved about the 3576? I thought I saw someplace that there had been a slight improvement in the tuner or something?

My main purpose is to record/archive recordings from my DirecTV TiVo's and make some archive recordings of home video currently on S-VHS tape (birthdays, etc.)
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post #1003 of 23781
6/7/08 at 6:49am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post

OK, which one to get?

3575 $260 from WalMart

3576 $248 + $35 membership fee, Sam's Club?

Is there anything improved about the 3576? I thought I saw someplace that there had been a slight improvement in the tuner or something?

My main purpose is to record/archive recordings from my DirecTV TiVo's and make some archive recordings of home video currently on S-VHS tape (birthdays, etc.)

With DirecTV the tuner won't matter, but I'd go for the 3576 anyway just in case something changes in the future with what service you use.

The 3576 does have new Front-End (FE) FW, which controls FE components, which I assume is the tuner and other things on the "receiving" end, but that's just my guess.

If you plan on always having Satellite service, where the tuner can't be used (unless you also plan to add ANALOG cable to your D*TV, like one user), either unit will be OK.
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post #1004 of 23781
6/7/08 at 4:54pm
Besides once you have the 1 year membership you may find other things to buy at Sams. I feel I get my money out of my membership and my work gives me a free Costco membership so I've got both bases covered.
Costco tends to have nicer/more expensive electronics although they don't carry the 3576. Their best(most expensive) DVDR would be the Panasonic EZ-48 w/VHS. Sams also carries the Panny but neither have a HDD like the Philips.
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post #1005 of 23781
6/7/08 at 11:25pm
My Polaroid DRM-2001G no longer records to DVDs. I wonder whether or not there is any way to copy movies from its hard drive to the Philips' hard drive.
The Polaroid has a composite input on the front & on the back it has

RF signal input, RF signal output
Composite Video input
S-Video input
Audio input
5.1ch Audio output
Composite Video Output
S-Video output
Digital Audio-Optical output
Digital Audio-coaxial output
Component Videos input
Component Videos output

I tried connecting the Polaroid's composite video output & 2 of the 5.1ch outputs to the composite input on the front of the Philips. I tried every source on both machines, & the best picture I got was a snowy double picture.
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post #1006 of 23781
6/7/08 at 11:28pm
Probably S-Video and two RCA audio connections is the best you'll be able to do.
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post #1007 of 23781
6/7/08 at 11:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uno View Post

My Polaroid DRM-2001G no longer records to DVDs. I wonder whether or not there is any way to copy movies from its hard drive to the Philips' hard drive.

You can transfer them, but as pl4 says, you'll have to use S-Vid, R/L line audio, and you will have to do real-time dubs. Be sure to set the Philips to record at the speed you want to burn to disc. There will be no improvement in quality to be had by setting the Philips at a significantly higher bit-rate than the original recording on the P'roid.

One thing you might want to consider is that the Polaroid will let you use the Philips to make anamorphic DVDs! Feed the component outs from your cable DVR to the P'roid, and run the S-Vid, R/L audio outs from the P'roid to the Philips. This will let you make the anamorphic DVDs because a squeezed picture is only available from the component and HDMI outs on most cable systems. The Polaroid serves to convert the anamorphic component out to S-Vid anamorphic.
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post #1008 of 23781
6/8/08 at 3:43pm
I have a question that somebody might be able to answer.

I have a 3575 recorder and I was wondering if I could hook it up to my 22" lcd monitor. My monitors dvi is not hdcp compliant. Could I buy a hdmi to dvi cable and have it work or will it not work because my monitor doesn't have hdcp? Any info would be great,Thanks.
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post #1009 of 23781
6/8/08 at 4:12pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogert View Post

I have a question that somebody might be able to answer.

I have a 3575 recorder and I was wondering if I could hook it up to my 22" lcd monitor. My monitors dvi is not hdcp compliant. Could I buy a hdmi to dvi cable and have it work or will it not work because my monitor doesn't have hdcp? Any info would be great,Thanks.

I believe it'll work since DVI is the video portion that they're trying most to protect?

Click the Monoprice ad at the top of every page here and find their HDMI Cables. Towards the bottom of their long list of HDMI cables are the kind you need, ~$3-4 each and EVERYBODY swears by them!

I'd get the whole HDMI-HDMI ended cable now cuz you'll be able to use in the future, then check the Monoprice site for a HDMI>DVI adapter for use right now???
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post #1010 of 23781
6/8/08 at 10:34pm
Thanks for the info, I'll give it a shot.
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post #1011 of 23781
6/8/08 at 11:36pm
kjbawc & pl4,
Thanks for the advice, but when I connect the Polaroid's S-Video output to the Philips' S-Video input, all I see is a blue screen. I don't have a cable DVR; I have a satellite HD receiver.
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post #1012 of 23781
6/8/08 at 11:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uno View Post

kjbawc & pl4,
Thanks for the advice, but when I connect the Polaroid's S-Video output to the Philips' S-Video input, all I see is a blue screen. I don't have a cable DVR; I have a satellite HD receiver.

Something's wrong there. Is the Polaroid getting a signal? Is the Philips set to the correct input? You shouldn't be getting a blue screen if those two answers are yes. Perhaps Wajo can help with finding out if you have selected the right input.

I have no experience with them, but from what I have read, some sat. receivers can output an anamorphic signal over S-Vid, and some can't. So, if you can get it working right, the Polaroid might still be a helpful converter, even if it won't record. If you say what sat. receiver, and what service, someone here may know. There are also other forums for those, where you could get the answer.
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post #1013 of 23781
6/9/08 at 7:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjbawc View Post

Something's wrong there. Is the Polaroid getting a signal? Is the Philips set to the correct input? You shouldn't be getting a blue screen if those two answers are yes. Perhaps Wajo can help with finding out if you have selected the right input.

Yes, there's a setting in the Setup > Video > Video Input menu that has to be changed to S-Video In. The default is Video In (Composite).
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post #1014 of 23781
6/9/08 at 10:38am
Thread Starter 
Just ran across a good "lesson" for us all on letting our HDD get full and "guessing" how close we can get before the HDD freezes... permanently! Here's the section of text from the "Don't Let Your HDD Get Full" subject with this real-life experience included.

"3. Don't try to make complex edits (Divides and Deletes) if your HDD is over 90% full. That's an arbitrary, untested number... just use good judgement! I'd have to guess that 95% is dangerous territory and 99% is apocalyptic territory!!!. Adding chapter marks and changing titles should still work OK since those instructions are not complex, but who really knows!?

Here's a real-life example of how close you might get to completely full before editing freezes your HDD forever... this user had 1.5 hours remaining on his Pioneer DVR-530H-S, with 160GB HDD like ours, and tried to reduce filesize BY EDITING out commercials instead of deleting files, which gave an "HDD Err" and freeze.

The machine had been giving him "a warning to Optimise regularly for 1/2 a year"!!! We won't get such a warning cuz we don't have an optimize utility. However, even machines with an optimize utility need open room on the HDD to store stuff it needs to move temporarily to get fragmented pieces back together again. This user could never optimize cuz there was never enough room.

Lesson: never EDIT to reduce filesize on the HDD cuz that just adds more complex instructions for the HDD and cache to store and track. DELETE OR DUB TITLES TO DVD, LAST-IN-FIRST-OUT (LIFO)! Deleting last title(s) first gets rid of those files that may be most fragmented of them all cuz they were probably filling up empty spaces all over the HDD. This reduces the job of storing and tracking multiple fragments."

I used the term "gets rid of" which doesn't mean the files are actually "deleted"... they're just deleted from the op system tracking so those spaces can be overwritten with new files, like your computer does.
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post #1015 of 23781
6/9/08 at 11:52am
I have a 3576 that I purchased at Sam's. This is the second one (I took the first one back and exchanged it) and it still exhibits the same symptoms.

I had it hooked up to my tv via the video out from the unit to video in on the tv (Sanyo 32" from Walmart approx 3 years old). I ran the audio out straight to my Harmon Kardon 3475 stereo receiver without the tv in the loop. Every time I would change the channel, use the skip or next feature on HDD or the next button on DVD it causes a loud popping sound to come from the left channel of the stereo.

After getting the second unit and having it do the same thing I tried something different. I hooked it up to the tv using the composite video connections (I don't think it really matters which way the video is ran other than picture quality) and the audio out from the unit to the tv. Then I hooked the audio out from the tv to the stereo receiver inputs. By using the tv as a passthrough instead of a direct connection to the stereo it eliminated the popping sound and it doesn't seem like I lost any sound quality.

Does this make any sense why the popping sound was eliminated by doing this? Is it a problem with the 3576 or the stereo receiver?
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post #1016 of 23781
6/9/08 at 12:24pm
Thread Starter 
Stating an obvious just cuz I've done it myself: you can get popping if you accidentally connect a video cable to an audio I/O and maybe vice versa (can't remember what I had when I had some popping)?

Other than that, there are some Playback > Disc Audio setting that should be set according to the specs of your AV receiver. You might try diff. settings on those?

Just some total SWAGs!
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post #1017 of 23781
6/9/08 at 12:45pm
I don't have an AV receiver, it is a standard 4 channel receiver with subwoofer outputs. I think that the AV receivers suck, they don't have near the power output that non AV receivers do. When I bought this one, I wanted a unit that would actually jam out. It still isn't as good as my old Fisher was though.

I tried all of the different settings and nothing made any difference.
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post #1018 of 23781
6/9/08 at 2:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by memberinmo View Post

...I had it hooked up to my tv via the video out from the unit to video in on the tv (Sanyo 32" from Walmart approx 3 years old). I ran the audio out straight to my Harmon Kardon 3475 stereo receiver without the tv in the loop. Every time I would change the channel, use the skip or next feature on HDD or the next button on DVD it causes a loud popping sound to come from the left channel of the stereo...

Maybe a stretch here, but what about a ground loop? Are all your components plugged in to the same place/power strip/UPS?
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post #1019 of 23781
6/9/08 at 3:10pm
Yes, they are all plugged into a UPS that no longer has the battery hooked up because it went dead. They are plugged into the part that only provides surge protection not backup though. They have been plugged in this way the whole time with both configurations and I only get the popping with the direct connection to the receiver.
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post #1020 of 23781
6/9/08 at 3:26pm
Well, I got the 3576 from Sam's.

So far only 1 little issue, which I think might be chapter mark related.

I dubbed a LaserDisc to the HDD, then edited it, and I thought I completely removed the side changing text that the LD player displays, but on playback of the burned disc, those messages flash on the screen very quickly (they do not appear on playback from the HDD, oddly enough). WHen I try to re-edit and delete, it will not let me delete anything more from that section (all within the same second). Any suggestions? Do I need to first delete the chapter marker that got placed there from my original edit?

Also, I just ordered these from Rima:
http://www.rima.com/Merchant2/mercha...ode=TAIYOYUDEN

Are these the preferred TY discs for the 3576? I thought I had read that the silver ones were preferred over the white ones, but didn't really hear why, or hear anything on which disc to buy (other than the premium line).

So far, I cannot imagine anyone wanting to buy a DVDR without a HDD on it. This thing is a great new toy!!
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AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575