Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 331

Okay, I've tried running some tests using my theories--no luck (doesn't help that my TVs get all output versions and can establish the handshake no matter which is turned on first. Tried with a partially plugged in HDMI and with nothing plugged in, still no luck. Channel selectors on remote work just fine. Am trying another test to check something. Will let you know when it is done.

While wating for my 2160 (still on the boat), i been checking some other stuff, one of those a media center because of comments from here, to sum it short those arent perfect by any means, and most are the same just with some different offerings like better remotes, some support inside drives, other have more connections, wifi etc, its a world on its own, that have consumed me for the past couple of weeks . I went from checking external drives/enclosures to reaserching NAS and home servers, but one thing that im still researching are hard drives and while i was checking some, i found the following review HARD DRIVE ROUNDUP, btw has 2 drives from recommend list of hard drives

Check Page 8 2nd chart (both on the recommend list)
HDP725050GLA360 --> 32C idle, 41C load
ST3500418AS ------> 31C idle, 33C load

While this might or not be accurate, or even if it is, might not matter for the case of magnovox as this are pure pc setups and workloads, and there are really good info wajo has posted from hitachi, like the google remarks, i might be worth still for someone considering upgrading hdd. As a side not the Segatte seems like a great drive, specially the load temps (kinda wierd), and performance seems to be really good, not sure why at the end they rated it mid table, even lower than hitatchi.

From that review... one drive caught my attention, and got lost again, one page leads to another suddenly im researching a totally new thing,


So i started seraching again... and found the another review SilentPCreview's Samsung F2 EcoGreen HD502HI: Silent 500GB 3.5" HDD, power drawn is even lower than WD Green Caviars, 6.1W which is the same as the stock 160gb drive.


I might buy a couple to test, if i do, ill post how it does.

Unijin,

Alright. I think I found your problem. I think you are running the cable into the Maggie from your TWC box and then a cable from your Maggie to your TV. This allows pictures from your cable box to be seen on your TV channel 3 via the pass-thru. It also allows the Maggie to run thru the channel setup without freezing. Since the setup finds no channels available from the cable box, the channel selector moves thru the line inputs only.

Either put your Maggie first in line or get a splitter (cable from wall into splitter, then one cable from the splitter into the cable box and the another cable from the splitter into the Maggie). This will require you to have two HDMI cables if your TV has two HDMI inputs or use some combination of component, HDMI, YWR RCA cables from the cable box and Maggie to the TV.

If you are running the cable into the Maggie directly from the wall, then I don't know what it could be.

We may be related since we think alike. I need only a small excuse to buy newer toys. I think your channels locations may have changed because they have changed. Cable companies like to move things because they can. Check you local feed's web site. I know five of my analog channels are being dropped on July 12. That will take me down to 61 analog. Before blaming the TV, be real sure it's not a loose cable. Watch an analog channel while moving the cables. Watching a digital channel is an off or on situation. The channels on my 2160 are not the same as my TV on a few channels. I know all tuners are not created equal. The tuner on my Panny EZ28 (combo) thinks 26.1 is dead, my 2160 thinks 26.0 is a real channel and moves the 26.x block up by one. All my Sony equipment (COMBO) agrees on the numbers.

Today, no. But I have a Sanyo 720P 4x3 LCD DP15657 that considers analog one input and QAM256 a different input. I use it mostly as a monitor for overflow recording since it has two component inputs and two S-Video/composite inputs. No backlighting so it lives in my bedroom. It is two years old and discontinued. So the input button selects 'analog rf', 'QAM rf', IN1, IN2, and IN3. Only one RF input connector.

Well of anyone, you definitely don't need education-what I was trying to say was that on two TVs I have to hit a button to go from DTV to Analog; just like the 2160 (that is a hybrid, correct?) One TV is a Sanyo and the other is a SDTV RCA. Not the best out there; should have paid the extra bucks!!


Tomorrow I'm going to try some different stuff to see if I can pick up the QAM channels. At best, this TV only picked up 14 digital stations (I really need to get a better TV) Again, both 2160s work great.

Thanks for all the input and help!

my son has a 4 year old Sony LCD that has 1 RF conector but has 2 different inputs, 1 analog, 1 digital. So more money may not have solved the problem

oldmanjoe,

ATSC Digital (VIRTUAL!) Channel NUMBERS vs Actual Channel FREQUENCY... NOTE: I don't believe that this is a 'Magnavox 2160x/Philips 3575x SPECIFIC' question so I decided to break it out into its own thread.

Same here. Does anyone know if the 2160A that Walmart is shipping now contains the updated firmware or the old buggy firmware?

I just bought one a couple of weeks ago and had to update the firmware in order to finalize with recordings scheduled.

Grant

Now that we are talking about tunners, anybody knows something about the quality of a record made by the Antenna IN and a non scrambled, non digital, but excellent cable signal? So is the tunner strong enough to deliver a good image?

I ask this because until now I've been using the L1 and S-Video inputs, what gives me stereo sound plus luma (luminance) and chroma (color) signals.

As always, thanks in advice.

and all I can do with the buttons on the front panel is play the most recent title.

There's no replacement on the Philips Website. Any of you guys know someone who can scrounge a part and replace it for me?

You're asking, "Why not just buy a new DVR?" Well, I'm the proud owner of a brand-new 2160 A. But I have a bunch of unfinalized DVDs from the Philips (which the Magnavox will play, but not edit or finalize) as well as lots of titles on the Philips HDD. Any way I can connect the two DVRs to bypass the need for the Philips remote?

Note: I can extract the files on the unfinalized Philips DVDs with ISOBuster and burn new ones. But that will take me about a million years.

Thanks for any ideas!

Yep! New batteries, and the remote is transmitting (I can see it flashing in a digital camera). I called a local TV tech and he told me they get a lot of failed IR sensors now.

WAJO!!! I LOVE YOU!!!

I can finalize the Philips DVDs in the Mag. You have saved me $ and untold grief. Bless you!

If you really don't like the "Empty Title" on your DVD±R discs, here's an automated (unattended) procedure for deleting it by OVERWRITING it before Finalizing:....

THIS IS REALLY USER FRIENDLY AND TIME SAVING FEATURE!
You know how much time it takes to "OVERWRITE" then "DELETE TITLE", then FINALIZE the disc, not to mention every time you edit a title you have to wait for Maggy to "WRITE TO DISC"?

BTW, the HSD (high speed dob) is not that HIGH SPEED:
Takes more than 20 min. for a title recorded at SP, and that is 2hrs. long.
Is my machine (MAGGY 513 bought less than 20 days ago) abnormally slow?

I have to say WAJO you saved my day and put my frustration at slight ease by posting these useful info and fixes I consistently come to read and learn.

I really appreciate!
pttoo2

Sorry, praise is indeed a bad word here. As usual, what I get for not reading the doc in detail before trying to provide an answer. Sorry if I misled someone.
I guess I'm remembering an earlier version, and apparently not well.
M.

pttoo2 -

For comparison purposes, test burned 3 original HDD SP recorded programs to DVD, as follows:
- ½ hour program (0:29:57)
- 1 hour program (0:59.54)
- ½ hour program (0:29:53)

High Speed Burn Time: 17 minutes and 33 seconds (until DVD menu reappeared displaying content)
Finalizaion Burn Time (L3 setting): 1 minute, 54 seconds (until DVD menu reappeared displaying content)

System/Media Info
- H2160A - Date of Mfg: Nov 2009 (FW not updated)
- Verbatim 16x DVD+R (Mfr: Mitsubshi Chemical, Taiwan)


ww

I just wanted to update some changes to my HDD's. I have a Maggie 2080 that I had upgraded to a 160G PATA. I changed it over to a HITACHI Travelstar 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300 (0A57915) 500GB 5400 RPM. This is the same model that Auskck installed in his units last year. He talked me into getting one at that time but I never got around to installing it until now. I also got the IDE/SATA adapter that he recommended and it works great. http://www.cooldrives.com/sahadradtoid.html.

The only thing that consumed any time was mounting the drive on the existing 3.5" base. I was able to line up one mounting screw on the base and grabbed the 2.5" drive there. It also served as a good ground. I also used a small piece of double sided tape to really secure the drive.
It seems to work well and the PQ off the DirecTV HD box is absolutely beautiful. I'll be recording the live daily feed of the Tour De France so I'll have about 80 hours of programming on it in the next 3 weeks. That should be a great test for the unit.


I also have an long term update of the original 500G drive I installed in a refurb 3575 in June 2009. (Thanks to Wajo for keeping great records of these things! )
I've been having some trouble with the unit. I'm getting occasional picture freeze and there are certain times the unit won't shut off without unplugging it. Whether this is because of the "strain" of the larger HDD or the unit is just starting to screw up, I don't know. The PQ has also gone downhill. It's not bad, just not as good as when I first installed it.

If you guys have any suggestions, let me know.

I'm not sure anyone has suggested this option to those who use a 2.5" drive in the Maggie. StarTech has a 3.5" bay to Dual 2.5" PATA HDD adapter, as well as one for a SATA drive. In each case, the adapter will hold two 2.5" drives, but you can only use one as well. I've used both versions, and I can attest to their quality. Here's the links to both versions:

PATA - http://www.startech.com/item/IDE3525...D-adapter.aspx

SATA - http://www.startech.com/item/SATA352...D-Adapter.aspx

A number of online computer vendors carry these products, and at a discount. Hope this helps.

20 minutes is about average for a "full" DVD burn on a DVDR from the last 8 years. I was hoping that they would have taken advantage of the newer SATA drives at 16 speed. They would also be able to be swapped out easier. Twenty minutes is a lot faster than two hours though.

Faster isn't always better...

I suggest you, just leave the empty tittle on your DVDs, the overwriting process puts unnecessary work into the laser. Of course, the other things that you mention are true.

Also when you want a rly good HDD-DVD dub, use the Real Time Dub. I try the HSD, and I don't like how it works with edit tittles (in any case, remember the Dub with the 2160 isn't a clear 1:1 process).

Any dub in real-time requires a re-encoding that results in a reduction in picture quality.

It's true that high-speed dubbing does not preserve front, mid and end cut editing with the exact frame accuracy of the original edits. But there are certain editing strategies, e.g., adjusting the edit locations differently with "in" and "out" scenes, that minimize this imprecision. As with recording strategies, some trial and error is required to master these techniques.

Thanks for the tips. I did SKIP 013 and everything is fine. The freezing was random, when I played over the same spots everything was OK with no power down problems. This led me to believe it was something other than a HDD problem. OTOH, sometimes running a HDD past a minor problem area sometimes "fixes" it.
In fact, I was having more problems a month ago and the unit is running better now. I'll keep tabs on it and probably switch out the HDD if the problems crop up again.

Micro Center has the 500g Caviar Green on sale for $50, maybe I'll pick one up as a backup.

In my tests the final QP of RTD seems to be better than the HSD. I'd like to extract the RAW files from the HDD and compare