AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › DVD Recorders (Standard Def) › Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575
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Magnavox 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 333

post #9961 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Need:
  1. Remote model #.
  2. DVDR models it works on.
  3. Code(s).
  4. Any tips that would help others.

1. Logitech Harmony 620
2. Magnavox 2160A (tested)
3. In Harmony online database
4. None. Didn't have to learn any codes. Harmony is "activity centric" so I only program those buttons needed for a particular activity. The main thing to watch for (true for all devices controlled) is if you change activities, Harmony default is to turn off any device not needed in the new activity. So if you want the DVDR to remain powered up (for example to keep the catch-up buffer) you will have to program that.

scott s.
post #9962 of 23767
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

Even after Sony has added more DVR-type buttons to the VL610 (e.g. Page+, Page-, List,...), it still does not have a dedicated "Live" or "Pause Live TV" button. However, this remote has so many buttons (63) that it's easy to exactly match the 2160 buttons, except for the 2160-specific ones like DTV/TV, HDD, DVD. I think the only way we can fully duplicate the 2160 remote buttons is using a more expensive remote that has LCD screen and soft buttons. These days, refurbished Harmony remotes that can do this can be purchased for 30 to 60 bucks.

So, would my wife still have to press "Sleep" to see the Disc Menu?
post #9963 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

So, would my wife still have to press "Sleep" to see the Disc Menu?

I hear ya, however you could program the "Fav" button for that after all, if that's her favorite activity using the 2160, yes? I programmed the "Fav" button for the "Pause Live".

Of course if you use the Harmony remote, then "Disc Menu" would be on the LCD screen, and selected with the soft button right next to it.
post #9964 of 23767
HDD Format notation

Model 2160A
2 Months 'Old'

After noticing pixelation in several shows during the last 2 weeks-in which some extensive editing took place, I decided to try a hdd format. I didn't know if the pixelation was due to glitches in the broadcast, at the cable system, or the drive itself. Most of the programs where I noticed this happening, were recorded from clear QAM channels. So, it may have been a signal strength issue, who knows? Tonight I set it to record Eureka- analog cable channel, and while chase playing, noted 2 instances of pixelation.
So, with the edited shows offloaded to discs and erased yesterday, I decided to perform a format.

Quote:


SKIP 079 - HDD/DVD Self-Check and Format

The SKIP 079 procedure operates in two sequential steps: (1) an automated HDD/DVD Self-Check, then (2) an HDD/DVD Format IF you click OK.

*****************************
STEP 1 - HDD/DVD SELF-CHECK
*****************************
This is a simple automated check of HDD and DVD cables and communication, to check for a loose or disconnected cable, which can be one cause for HDD errors or stuttering, a tray that won't open, a "Loading" message that never ends, "playback error" messages, etc. Here's one user's tale of annoying playback errors for 5 months who finally opened his case and found the DVD cable almost disconnected (it fell off when he turned DVD drive over).

Self-Check Procedure: With DVDR on live TV and on either HDD or DVD drive, point remote at unit and sequentially press the SKIP 079 buttons. This brings up the SELF-CHECK screen shown below and starts an automated self-check, filling in the status of the items it checks.

To exit the Self-Check, simply turn the unit OFF by pressing the Standby/On (power) button... DO NOT PRESS OK unless you intend to format the HDD and "wipe it clean."

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...stcount=39#079

Quote:


PRESSING OK ON THE SELF-CHECK SCREEN FORMATS THE HDD. YOU WILL LOSE ANY RECORDED TITLES AND TIMER REC PROGRAMS!

You can add 'Lose Clock setting' when formatting the drive to the list. I had to reset the clock afterwards, all other settings remained.
post #9965 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by [B View Post

Need:[/b]
  1. Remote model #.
  2. DVDR models it works on.
  3. Code(s).
  4. Any tips that would help others.

I actually have two Philips remotes. The older SRU4106/27 has no code under Magnavox DVD recorders that will work the 2160a, I don't know about other models.
1. SRU4208WM/17
2. 2160a
3. code 1542
4. Tips: look for your code under DVD - Recorders if no code under combo devices then program a couple of unused Tivo buttons to switch between HDD and DVD modes.
The only thing I use the original remote for is titles. This new universal adds volume control for your TV or sound system.
post #9966 of 23767
Thread Starter 
post #9967 of 23767
) URC 8810 (cost $18 from WalMart @ 2002 and comes with jp1 connector).
2) 2160A
3) Imported jp1 file for Maggie from JP1 website.
4) None needed -- everything included in the imported file.
post #9968 of 23767
Quote:


That should drive down the cost of the 2160A at Wally World.
post #9969 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

It's a good idea! perhaps that's another category on Wajo's first page. Here are the 2 cheap remotes that I've used with the 2160/A successfully. Like you've experienced, I only had to program a few special buttons that the 2160 has, most of the DVDR-type buttons work right away.

Sony RM-V610
URC- 8820N

1. URC- 8820N.
2. Mag 2160/A.
3. Code 0675
4. Had to program a few special buttons that the 2160 has, most of the DVDR-type buttons work right away.

1. Sony RM-VL610
2. Mag 2160/A.
3. Code (don't remember), learned most of the buttons after assigning code.
4. Even though one of the Sony codes worked, the button mapping has some award assignments so I've learned perhaps 50% of the buttons so that they are closely match with the 2160 buttons name or position.
post #9970 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

1. Sony RM-VL610
2. Mag 2160/A.
3. Code (don't remember), learned most of the buttons after assigning code.
4. Even though one of the Sony codes worked, the button mapping has some award assignments so I've learned perhaps 50% of the buttons so that they are closely match with the 2160 buttons name or position.

The code is 0220. I had to teach the remote ~15 custom buttons. Most are obvious, some are not.
post #9971 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Something simple to try, an "ordered" power-on:

1. Turn everything off and leave HDMI connection to TV and composite connection from RNG to 2160 in, as before.
2. Turn RNG on and wait till it's up and running.
3. Turn TV on.
4. Turn 2160 on.
5. See if anything changes?



I tried this, actually unplugging the RNG works, initially. I can then record and even set timers for a short time(hour or so). Then as I guess it redownloads the information from Comcast, it shortly starts getting the Cannot Record E25 message again. So I guess I am out of luck for this, unless someone knows of another workaround, short of having to unplug everytime...

Todd
post #9972 of 23767
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tws1958 View Post

I tried this, actually unplugging the RNG works, initially. I can then record and even set timers for a short time(hour or so). Then as I guess it redownloads the information from Comcast, it shortly starts getting the Cannot Record E25 message again. So I guess I am out of luck for this, unless someone knows of another workaround, short of having to unplug everytime...

It sounds like you might have hit on a possible culprit!

No one asked how you had the DVDR and box connected, but I'm wondering if that might be the problem. I know from user reports that their cableco has to have a clear path to "communicate" with the user's system... but they wouldn't use that to play "profit-enhancement" games, would they!?

Anyway, I'm wondering if one of the following might let you know if the cableco "signal" is the problem:

1. Placing the DVDR AFTER the box, i.e., on the coax out of the box (never recommended by me for daily ops).

2. A unidirectional (cheap) splitter, which might mask the DVDR's presence. If you need bi-directional comm. for daily ops (box maint. or ordering PPV), you'd want to disconnect the cheap splitter.
post #9973 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

It sounds like you might have hit on a possible culprit!

No one asked how you had the DVDR and box connected, but I'm wondering if that might be the problem. I know from user reports that their cableco has to have a clear path to "communicate" with the user's system... but they wouldn't use that to play "profit-enhancement" games, would they!?

Anyway, I'm wondering if one of the following might let you know if the cableco "signal" is the problem:

1. Placing the DVDR AFTER the box, i.e., on the coax out of the box (never recommended by me for daily ops).

2. A unidirectional (cheap) splitter, which might mask the DVDR's presence. If you need bi-directional comm. for daily ops (box maint. or ordering PPV), you'd want to disconnect the cheap splitter.

Unfortunately, this RNG box does not have a coax out line. It only has HDMI out, Composite out and Component out.

I have a splitter already taking the coax to the Magnavox and the RNG and coax going to TV as well as HDMI to TV. From RNG I have the HDMI to TV and Composite to Magnavox.
post #9974 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by tws1958 View Post

Unfortunately, this RNG box does not have a coax out line. It only has HDMI out, Composite out and Component out.

I have a splitter already taking the coax to the Magnavox and the RNG and coax going to TV as well as HDMI to TV. From RNG I have the HDMI to TV and Composite to Magnavox.

Comcast repeatedly tried to get me to take the Pace RNG110. I held out for a Motorola DCX3200 that has a RF output useful for daisy-chaining five of my Magnavox, Philips and Panasonic recorders with unmodulated RF outputs, plus S-Video and composite outputs connected to two more Panasonic recorders. That's right, seven recorders connected to a single DCX3200 HD converter box.
post #9975 of 23767
I got my Mag back from the Funai repair center yesterday. It was 1 1/2 weeks after sending it so the turn around is very good.
One thing that troubles me is that when I went into set up, most of my settings were still there. I figure some are just the defaults, but my Vskip/replay (one minute forward, 15 seconds back) were unchanged. I would have thought they would at least do a hard reset, or even open up the unit.
For reference, my problems were the box freezing and being unresponsive 2 minutes before a scheduled recording and some repeating scheduled recordings randomly disappearing from the timer recording list. These things weren't constant but happened too often for a brand new unit.

There was also zero paperwork in the shipping box.
Any thoughts?
I'll see how it goes of course and hopefully it really has been fixed.
post #9976 of 23767
If it works, they fixed it.
post #9977 of 23767
It froze twice today. Both times it happened while I was switching cables around in the back. That's never happened before.
post #9978 of 23767
Just ordered mine. Shipping is free to home or store. I hope the user interface is similar to the Philips 3576 (but better). I don't want to have to learn a different "language". I miss my Panny. It was so much friendlier than the Philips.


Quote:
post #9979 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by atti View Post

I got my Mag back from the Funai repair center yesterday. It was 1 1/2 weeks after sending it so the turn around is very good.......There was also zero paperwork in the shipping box.
Any thoughts?
I'll see how it goes of course and hopefully it really has been fixed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by atti View Post

It froze twice today. Both times it happened while I was switching cables around in the back. That's never happened before.

If the unit is still within the exchange period (usually 30 days), suggest you do that, otherwise contact Funai and register a formal complaint. If the unit was repaired in their Torrance, CA facility, calmly remind them that, under California law, they are required to give you (in writing) a description as to what repairs were made, and parts used to make the repair.

What cables were you switching? (Antenna, HDMI, Video Input (L1, L2, L3), Composite Output.....etc.)

If you moved the unit while it's in record or playback mode, you may have accidently jarred the hard drive, causing the read/record heads to "skip". The H2160 and most other consumer DVRs are not designed for portability while in record/play mode. Never move the unit while it is turned on, as the hard drive is constantly spinning.

The "freezing" can also be caused either by a loose internal connection (as Wajo described sometime back) or the hard drive itself may have some bad sectors.

Have you tried testing the hard drive for a possible "NG" readout, using one of the built-in "Skip" functions, as posted by Wajo?

ww

PS- You could also file a claim with the carrier (UPS, FedEx, USPS) for hidden damage.
post #9980 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigaDo View Post

Comcast repeatedly tried to get me to take the Pace RNG110. I held out for a Motorola DCX3200 that has a RF output useful for daisy-chaining five of my Magnavox, Philips and Panasonic recorders with unmodulated RF outputs, plus S-Video and composite outputs connected to two more Panasonic recorders. That's right, seven recorders connected to a single DCX3200 HD converter box.

I need to get another box for another TV, so I am going to try to take the RNG back and ask for the DCX3200 you mentioned. Actually I would need two as I need one for another TV and the wife is already on me for having three different types of converters(DVR, RNG and the DTAs for the older sets)...
post #9981 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by atti View Post

It froze twice today. Both times it happened while I was switching cables around in the back. That's never happened before.

One age-old tenant regarding anything electronic... only switch cables, or unplug and plug in I/O cables when the device is OFF.
post #9982 of 23767
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by atti View Post

It froze twice today. Both times it happened while I was switching cables around in the back. That's never happened before.

I checked past posts on this problem to see if Auto Clock was discussed.

I only found your answer that you "never use Auto Clock." However, I didn't find my next obvious question, "Have you checked the Clock menu because the default is ON" (except in the 513... I think even Funai got tired of clock problems in the 2160A)?
post #9983 of 23767
I subscribed to this thread a long time ago but I am only getting some of the messages sent to my email account. Most posts are not forwarded. Does anyone know why?

As an example, I did not receive the post from wajo (or responses to his post) that prices were rolled back. I just (happily) decided to check my cart at walmartdotcom and found the price drop. Serendipity Just what I had been waiting for.
post #9984 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzie2 View Post

I subscribed to this thread a long time ago but I am only getting some of the messages sent to my email account. Most posts are not forwarded. Does anyone know why?

As an example, I did not receive the post from wajo (or responses to his post) that prices were rolled back. I just (happily) decided to check my cart at walmartdotcom and found the price drop. Serendipity Just what I had been waiting for.

Be sure and save the cookies from this site. If they get erased, you won't be logged in when you go here. After not having logged in for a time the update messages stop coming until you log in again.
post #9985 of 23767
Chuck44,

I am logged in when I get here and I do get some of the posts. But I do not get the majority of the posts and wonder why. I only seem to get a couple of posts a week forwarded to my email account. wajo's post on the price rollback would have been welcome news but I did not receive it even though I received other posts during that time period.
post #9986 of 23767
Its happened to me a time or 2 even though the cookie was intact.
One of the mysteries of the Internet I guess.
post #9987 of 23767
Thread Starter 
Aaargh... that *%@^*# missing End-Cut instruction NOT in the manual stikes again... latest Walmart reviewer:

"3) When you edit a show that you have recorded to remove commercials, etc. all works well until the very end. It is difficult to delete the last recorded section because the recorder resets to the beginning of the movie rather than stopping at the end. You have to determine the time at the end of the recording and then stop the edit just before this time is reached."

Attn: Newbies

Instructions for making Front- and End-Cuts (Scene Deletes) are here... it's pretty easy once you know the "secret button" to press (and ignore what's playing on screen)!


post #9988 of 23767
STILL LOVE MY 3575!!!! WORKS AMAZINGLY!!!!

Also, my 3575, at the end of a title while making cuts, automatically runs to the end, and then restarts the title as well. But the cut(the red part), is the END ONLY that needs to be cut, so it works perfectly.

I am guessing the Magnavox, or the 3576 do not do this?
post #9989 of 23767
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by STEELERSRULE View Post

STILL LOVE MY 3575!!!! WORKS AMAZINGLY!!!!

Also, my 3575, at the end of a title while making cuts, automatically runs to the end, and then restarts the title as well. But the cut(the red part), is the END ONLY that needs to be cut, so it works perfectly.

I am guessing the Magnavox, or the 3576 do not do this?

They all work the same way... the programmer had too much Saki when he wrote the end-cut code and thought it would be cooooool for users to see an AUTOMATIC Preview of what the title would look like when played from end to beginning!
post #9990 of 23767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzie2 View Post

I subscribed to this thread a long time ago but I am only getting some of the messages sent to my email account. Most posts are not forwarded. Does anyone know why?

As an example, I did not receive the post from wajo (or responses to his post) that prices were rolled back. I just (happily) decided to check my cart at walmartdotcom and found the price drop. Serendipity Just what I had been waiting for.

I have found that with windows XP I can lose items temporarily after a defrag of the hard drive partition. It's not every cookie, just a scattered few.
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