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4-Way Acoustically Transparent Masking - Page 17

post #481 of 829
2/16/09 at 9:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

I used:

Grainger part #1X409 for the insert,

Grainger part #1A417 for the 5/16" coupler, and

Grainger part #4X176 for the 1/2" coupler.

Any backlash with that buna insert ? The Hytrel seems a bit stiffer.
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post #482 of 829
2/17/09 at 5:36am
Thread Starter 
The buna insert seems fine to me. It does allow for slight mis-alignment of the two shafts, but I have not noticed any backlash.
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post #483 of 829
2/19/09 at 9:37am
QUESTION FOR SCOTT (or others)

I'm very close to ordering the Goelst motorized panel system for my side masking.

The issue is travel speed. I can order the travel speed set at a particular speed - set at the Goelst factory before it is sent to me. The problem is I have no real experience in using masking screens so I'm not sure what travel speed I should order.

I'm using a Carada Masquerade top/bottom. The Carada motorized masks travel at an approximate speed of 3.5 inches per second. But it does have a "jog" function which allows you to move the masks in discrete 1/2" increments for fine tuning.

But my side masking system from Goelst will have no such jog function so I have to choose the travel speed carefully. Slow enough that I can fine tune it to the edges of the screen image.

Any suggestions as to travel speed? What travel speed are you guys using in this DIY project?

Thanks
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post #484 of 829
2/19/09 at 10:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

QUESTION FOR SCOTT (or others)

I'm very close to ordering the Goelst motorized panel system for my side masking.

The issue is travel speed. I can order the travel speed set at a particular speed - set at the Goelst factory before it is sent to me. The problem is I have no real experience in using masking screens so I'm not sure what travel speed I should order.

I'm using a Carada Masquerade top/bottom. The Carada motorized masks travel at an approximate speed of 3.5 inches per second. But it does have a "jog" function which allows you to move the masks in discrete 1/2" increments for fine tuning.

But my side masking system from Goelst will have no such jog function so I have to choose the travel speed carefully. Slow enough that I can fine tune it to the edges of the screen image.

Any suggestions as to travel speed? What travel speed are you guys using in this DIY project?

Thanks

Hi,

I don't remember if this was mentioned in the thread at all. Scott and Teecue were initially dealing more with matching gear motor RPM and rotator rpm so the controller would not "time out". If you look at Scott's videos you'll see the screen masking moves pretty fast. Mine will be slower because of my gear motor RPM and the input voltage to the motor.
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post #485 of 829
2/19/09 at 11:41am
I'm looking at making my own side masking system at some point in the future. I like the look of the masking that Scott has come up with. The motor control looks a little too time consuming and involved for my liking. I would rather spend 30-40hrs watching movies then getting my masking to move to the right spots, etc. Has anyone found an easy to use motor control option. Something where the control and the motor are fairly well integrated from the factory and don't require quite so much fussing and experimenting. Is the Goelst stuff like that?
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post #486 of 829
2/19/09 at 12:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gobrigavitch View Post

I'm looking at making my own side masking system at some point in the future. I like the look of the masking that Scott has come up with. The motor control looks a little too time consuming and involved for my liking. I would rather spend 30-40hrs watching movies then getting my masking to move to the right spots, etc. Has anyone found an easy to use motor control option. Something where the control and the motor are fairly well integrated from the factory and don't require quite so much fussing and experimenting. Is the Goelst stuff like that?


Yes ! Stewart Filmscreen, Screen Research, SMX Screens, Carada, even Vutec is coming out with a masking system.
Goelst stuff is for curtains, it does require some type of modification to use in a msking system like Scott's
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post #487 of 829
2/19/09 at 1:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ifeliciano View Post

I don't remember if this was mentioned in the thread at all. Scott and Teecue were initially dealing more with matching gear motor RPM and rotator rpm so the controller would not "time out". If you look at Scott's videos you'll see the screen masking moves pretty fast. Mine will be slower because of my gear motor RPM and the input voltage to the motor.

I've slowed my masking down from what you see in the videos. I did have a 3 1/2" pulley and I changed to a 2 1/2" pulley. I'm thinking about reducing it again to a 2" pulley to even slow it down a little more. The slower the masking moves in relation to the revolutions of the hall sensor encoder, the more ability there is to fine-tune the stopping points. I'm not sure yet what the best compromise is going to be, but I would guess that about 3 to 4" of masking travel per second is in the right range.
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post #488 of 829
2/19/09 at 1:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gobrigavitch View Post

I'm looking at making my own side masking system at some point in the future. I like the look of the masking that Scott has come up with. The motor control looks a little too time consuming and involved for my liking. I would rather spend 30-40hrs watching movies then getting my masking to move to the right spots, etc. Has anyone found an easy to use motor control option. Something where the control and the motor are fairly well integrated from the factory and don't require quite so much fussing and experimenting. Is the Goelst stuff like that?

Yes I believe the Goelst product is like that, which is why I'm going to use it.
A lot of people have used motorized curtain systems for side masking but I like a cleaner look with a straighter edge for masking. Luckily Goelst offers an automated, sliding panel system which uses their curtain motor.

You have up to 5 remote controlled pre-set stopping points, so you can have up to 5 pre-set image width aspect ratios (plenty for the typical side masking requirements, e.g. of a 2:35:1 constant image height system).

The panels are made of a fabric of your choice - essentially they are fabric panels with a straight weight through the bottom which holds them into the taught, straigt panel shape. Frankly I'm surprised more people aren't jumping on this system. Looks like I'll be the first to try it though and I'll certainly report how it works.

Links to Goelst Panel system:


http://www.gsoft.nl/index.php?id=15&LAN=9

Short video of system working:

http://www.gsoft.nl/index.php?id=35
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post #489 of 829
2/19/09 at 1:54pm
That system sounds pretty easy. I read through the thread a little more and their seems to be some pretty good options from AV outlet. The 1.5 inch tubes with a somfy motor may be just what I'm looking for. I still have alot more time for research. I'm not planning on doing anything until next fall/winter.
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post #490 of 829
2/19/09 at 3:25pm
Lurking & learning are both great things to do on this forum ! Lots of great info is shared, takes alot of reading and searching some times & of course asking questions.
You are wise to come here at AVS Forum to learn.

I've been here a little over a year & I am still gathering info (have yet to build a thing). On occasion I get to share things I have found with other members, to help them in their searches. We all benefit.

Looking forward to see what you come up with, be sure to post lots of photos, especially on your making system.

John
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post #491 of 829
2/19/09 at 6:33pm
Solid Signal sent me an email informing me that the antenna rotators are back ordered
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post #492 of 829
2/19/09 at 7:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeCue View Post

Solid Signal sent me an email informing me that the antenna rotators are back ordered


Me too, but I've had mine for about a month already. I need to contact them and make sure they don't charge me for another one.
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post #493 of 829
2/19/09 at 10:30pm
I received that email too. What's weird is I already have a tracking number and they are supposed to be delivered tomorrow.
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post #494 of 829
2/20/09 at 5:59am
See what you guys have started...
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post #495 of 829
2/20/09 at 6:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

See what you guys have started...


Do you think a price hike is on the way?
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post #496 of 829
2/20/09 at 6:34pm
HDGTX
Came across one of your posts from last year regarding Tauntek IR kit. It is very interesting!

http://tauntek.com/irmimic2-learning...ransmitter.htm

Teecue
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post #497 of 829
2/20/09 at 9:18pm
TeeCee,

Yes, it seems like it could be really useful to a DIY'er & thought someone on here might put it to good use.

Another member had actually posted about the Tauntek products before I posted. He has used it on an DIY audio project, I'll find & post back a link.


John
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post #498 of 829
2/22/09 at 11:40am
Thread Starter 
I need some help. I'm working on my second motor for my horizontal masking. Below is a picture of the under side of the encoder where I attach it to my new DC motor. The picture shows the original rotator motor power connections, brushes, and rear motor shaft.

What is the orange thing? On my first motor, I left this attached, but I'm wondering if it is needed or if I can just cut it off. Does anyone know?

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post #499 of 829
2/22/09 at 3:54pm
Scott,

That is a small capacitor.You can remove it as it will not be needed in the new setup.

Teecue
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post #500 of 829
2/22/09 at 4:37pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Teecue.
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post #501 of 829
2/22/09 at 8:20pm
Scott,

The cap may have been there in the origonal design, to absorb electrical noise form the motor.

John
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post #502 of 829
2/23/09 at 1:55am
Thread Starter 
I completed my first ever printed circuit board. The full size relays just created too much of a wire mess for my liking so I decided to give the PCB a try and it came out pretty good!

I used a larger pre-made board from Radio Shack (part #276-168). This one is nice because it has a little more room to work with, plus it fits into the rotator housing. I also ordered some new 24V 5 amp PCB relays and also some screw terminals and screw blocks from mouser.com.







This shows the board inside of the rotator housing. After my first motor, I decided I wanted the wires all contained and I wanted the circuit boards protected, so I am going to put everything inside the original box. (More on this later...)


Overall, I'm really pleased with how this came out. I'm still working on getting everything put together for my second motor for the vertical masking. I've been taking a lot of pictures and will post them once its completed.

- Scott
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post #503 of 829
2/23/09 at 6:47am
Scott,

Does your vertical masking touch your horizontal masking at all? (Slide along it?).
Or is there some level of gap to ensure they don't touch?

I'm wondering whether to have my vertical masking actually slide along, touch, the horizontal masking to get it as close to the screen as possible, but I'm wondering if this will cause visible wear in the fabrics over time.
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post #504 of 829
2/23/09 at 9:57am
Thread Starter 
Rich,
I designed mine to have about a 1/4" gap, so the two masking panels don't rub on each other. In actuality, they probably do "touch" each other in spots, but there is not much friction to cause any wear.
- Scott
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post #505 of 829
2/23/09 at 5:20pm
Got it. Thanks Scott.
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post #506 of 829
2/24/09 at 2:16pm
I forgot about this cool thread. Now its motorized cool. Awesome.
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post #507 of 829
2/24/09 at 5:42pm
Thread Starter 
Just an update....

I've run into a snag with the new motor. I got the new PCB hooked up and the relays seem to be working fine, but for some reason I can't get the controller to recognize the "reset" function. I'll keep working on it until I figure it out, but it has slowed my progress. Sorry for the delay...

- Scott
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post #508 of 829
2/28/09 at 12:37pm
Hey Scott....Have you figured out anything on your controller ? Did you swap it with a working controller and see if it works?

If you plan on modifying the horizontal masking rollers, Here is a place for low cost Pillow Block bearings.

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/pi...ckbearing.html
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post #509 of 829
3/1/09 at 10:42am
Thread Starter 
I still have not figured out the Reset problem. In fact, I have taken a huge step backwards.

I got the new motor all set up, but I could not get it to reset to the "000" point. I worked all last weekend on it, several nights this past week and all day yesterday. I took each individual component and hooked it up to my old motor and each component worked okay. I am certain that the new relay is fine and is not part of the problem. I never tested the rotator before I started taking everything apart and I was starting to think that the encoder was a faulty one from the factory.

The pictures in the next two posts show how I put to new motor assembly together. Notice especially that I cut the wires that go between the Aspen Eagle PCB board and the encoder.

Here is where I took the huge step backwards... I decided to hook the new assembly to my original motor that controls my vertical masking. I cut the wires between the PCB and the encoder and put everything together. Then, my vertical masking motor and controller started acting up. It would work sometimes, but not others. At the end of the day yesterday, my vertical masking motor wouldn't "Reset" either. I have tested continuity on all of the wires and everything tests out fine. However, it acts up as if there is a short somewhere.

I think that cutting the wires and splicing in a longer piece between the Aspen Eagle PCB and the motor was a mistake. In theory I think it should work fine, but I think that is where at least part of my problem is.

Right now I am extremely frustrated. I've spent two weekends on this. What is especially frustrating is the fact that I know it should work!
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post #510 of 829
3/1/09 at 10:53am
Thread Starter 
Here is the PREPARATION step for the original rotator:









This is the HUGLY SURGURY step...









I drilled out the center to fit the 1/8" rear shaft extension that I put on my 12VDC motor...


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