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4-Way Acoustically Transparent Masking - Page 23

post #661 of 835
Happy Holidays!

Other than a couple pieces of trim my theater is finished. My masking system is working very well. I still need to decide on a universal remote.

Has the Eagle Aspen rotator been permanently discontinued?

Steve
post #662 of 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post

A while back I posted a question about controlling 2 Aspen Eagle's separately which is needed fo a 4 way masking system. TeeCue posted this IR relay board http://www.electronickits.com/kit/co...lec/ck1615.htm

I don't understand how this would work. It looks like you send it IR commands to turn on relays to activate things. What I need are IR addressable ports where you can send IR commands and have them routed to only specific IR emitters that would be attached to the front of the Aspen Eagle's IR receiver. Am I missing something

Steve, the way this should work is :

You need a Universal remote with Macros.

The IR receiver (sensor) in the Eagle Aspen needs to be routed through one of the relays in the kit, so that the received signal to the EA (Eagle Aspen) is forwarded to the control board only if the relay on the kit is activated (relay closed). For this you will have to physically cut ONE side of the cable from the IR sensor in the EA and connect through a relay in the kit

Do this for both EA receivers. You will now have two relays, relay 1 controlling the IR SENSOR for horizontal masking EA and relay 2 controlling the IR SENSOR for vertical masking EA.

Now you program a TWO STEP macro in your universal remote for EACH ONE of the EAs.

For the HORIZONTAL:
First teach the Universal Remote the code for RELAY 1 . Then teach it the code from the EA transmitter for horizontal masking setting.
There will now be one button on the uniersal remote that will first trigger the relay 1 and then send the signal to the horizontal EA whose IR sensor will send the received signal to the main control board......During this the vertical EA control board will be blind to the signal from the IR sensor because Relay 2 is open.

For the Vertical: Similar process.
The Universal remote FIRST sends a signal to CLOSE relay 2 and then sends the signal for the vertical masking. During this the horizontal EA control board will be blind to the signal because Relay 1 is open.

You will end up with TWO buttons on the Universal Remote, each controlling an Egle Aspen independant of the other

The relays have to be set at "MOMENTARY"

No clue about the Eale Aspens being discontinued.

PM me with any questions.

Teecue
post #663 of 835
Hi TeeCue, thanks for the info. I've been looking at getting one of the Prontos with the wireless extender that has 4 adressable IR ports.

Steve
post #664 of 835
Here's the finished product.
post #665 of 835
Steve, do you have a build thread ? WOuld love too see more pics of your theater.

John
post #666 of 835
Nice!
post #667 of 835
No build thread. I took a lot of pictures along the way but never got around to posting them. Maybe after I'm finished with everything I'll have some time for that.
post #668 of 835
I like the columns! Looks graet Steve!
post #669 of 835
Very elegant! Congratulations Steve.

Teecue
post #670 of 835
Killer room Steve! I love how neat and uncluttered it looks, especially the screen wall.

I'm really glad you got the 4 way masking working.

My semi-DIY 4 way masking is off to a good start, serving me well. I'd never live without it!
post #671 of 835
Thanks to everyone who has painstakingly detailed all the various methods. I am continuously amazed at the ingenuity here at AVS.

At one point I had read this whole thread. But that was a while ago and admittedly I haven't kept up like I should. I'm planning a raw screen area of around 15' wide and 7-1/2' tall w/4-way AT masking. Initially I'll have a 12' wide CIH setup. The idea is that this RAW screen size w/masking will allow me flexibility not only with source content but also future projectors and their capabilities.

My question: Is it advisable to use a similar method for retracting the screen material itself?

I'm thinking I'll use SeymourAV's XD material. I don't think I'll end up with enough room behind the false wall to maneuver for maintenance. It would be great if I could leave the screen in place - tensioned - most of the time and only retract it when I needed to access the speakers or front wall treatments. I assume a manual method would be preferred due to the infrequent access, but the automated method would really add to the cool factor.

I'm ages away from this step, but thought I should start tackling the idea now. Thoughts? Am I insane?
post #672 of 835
Thread Starter 
Steve,
Awesome job! I love the clean look, the front stage, the columns....
Nice job on the screen masking. It looks VERY professional.
- Scott
post #673 of 835
I am really impressed with all of the solutions that some of you have managed to implement.

I haven't read the entire thread, but I did notice Pocoloco's latest posts about using Somfy Motors and Constant Tension Springs (which I think were mentioned before somewhere in the 23 pages).

I work in motorized roller shade manufacturing and that proposed solution was the first thing I thought of when I saw what the goal of this thread was. I am big on DIY and enjoy using my MacGyver skills so I can really appreciate what is been done so far.

I figured I could answer some of the questions about Somfy, ESI, and other companies' offerings. We use some constant spring boxes on some of our shades and the ones we use pull about 7 lbs constantly over around 10' of travel. I'd also consider using the Somfy ILT motor as it has a lot of options for control, it is encoder based for accuracy, and comes in a quiet version.

I'll try to check back often, and/or set my preferences to email me when there is a response or PM, but I am eager to help if I can (as I'll probably be looking for solutions in the near future).
post #674 of 835
Very nice room.
post #675 of 835
Hope some of you were able to get in on the fun over at SparkFun's web site this morning for their "FREE DAY" sale.
I just now remembered it & missed out. They gave away their limit of $100,000 worth of electronic goodies in less than 2 hours (~1 hr & 45 min) to customers who were able to order up to $100 worth of items each.

www.sparkfun.com


John
post #676 of 835
I didn't forget and started banging away to get a discount on their oscilliscope. Started trying at the opening, never made it through. Tried it from 2 major IP backbones, same behavior on both. As bad as it was I almost find it hard to believe anyone could have managed to get through, much less 1000 people. About the only way you'd have had a shot at it was to have a cart ready, not timed out, and get one click at purchase. You could only get one web page to work (after a few hundred refreshes) so even when I managed (after 2 hours of trying) to get logged on, I still needed to add to cart, view cart, checkout. Who knows how many more screen after that, but at the least it would have been a redirect to Paypal and then back to sparkfun for a confirm, and I seriously doubt that would have made it without a webpage timeout along that chain. I found it impossible to get one page most of the time, only twice did I get a second page, and never could get a 3rd. Publicity stunt me think.
post #677 of 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady_ View Post

I am really impressed with all of the solutions that some of you have managed to implement.

I work in motorized roller shade manufacturing ....

I figured I could answer some of the questions about Somfy, ESI, and other companies' offerings....

Maybe starting a new thread would be a good idea. I'm sure you have a ton of knowledge that we will find useful. Perhaps in the screen DIY section?

And welcome to the zoo!

Pete
post #678 of 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

I didn't forget and started banging away to get a discount on their oscilliscope. Started trying at the opening, never made it through. Tried it from 2 major IP backbones, same behavior on both. As bad as it was I almost find it hard to believe anyone could have managed to get through, much less 1000 people. About the only way you'd have had a shot at it was to have a cart ready, not timed out, and get one click at purchase. You could only get one web page to work (after a few hundred refreshes) so even when I managed (after 2 hours of trying) to get logged on, I still needed to add to cart, view cart, checkout. Who knows how many more screen after that, but at the least it would have been a redirect to Paypal and then back to sparkfun for a confirm, and I seriously doubt that would have made it without a webpage timeout along that chain. I found it impossible to get one page most of the time, only twice did I get a second page, and never could get a 3rd. Publicity stunt me think.

GetGray, Sorry you had that experience. At least you remembered, since I totally forgot till late in the day.

John
post #679 of 835
Scott and Steve,

As you guys are now seasoned veterens at DIY masking, I have a thread going at the DIY Sreens section, but has gotten no responses and could use some help. Here's the link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1216976

In a nutshell, I have a masking idea that I'm looking for advice on and where to get various components.

If you can take a look and give me some feedback it would be great. You could either respond in this thread or the one I started depending on if you think there is a benefit to keeping the masking discussions in one place.

Thanks,
Greg
post #680 of 835
Hey Scott, any tips you can give me on cutting and sewing the GOM and the velvet for the vertical masking? Already had 3 ladies give it a try and either the fabric is not cut square and/or the velvet looks bunched up. Did you do the sewing yourself?

Jorge
post #681 of 835
Thread Starter 
Jorge,
If you look closely at some of my pictures of my setup, you will see a little bit of bunching of the GOM next to the velvet, especially on the left side. In reality this is not visible to the naked eye at all, but the flash photography makes it noticeable. I can't sew at all and my wife doesn't sew much either so I had my mom do it. She is not a professional seamstress by any means, but at 75 years old, she has done quite a bit of sewing in her lifetime. I don't think she did anything special, but she is a bit of a perfectionist.... I'm starting to get towards the "downhill" side of life myself, but don't ya always gotta love Mom!
post #682 of 835
Scott,

Thanks for the quick reply. What about the cutting? What did you use to square the fabric? From what I can tell if it is not square, it will sag when it is being rolled. I am using all somfy components (rollers, motor, spring, ribbon, etc.) and the fabric is all that is holding me back from finishing up.

Jorge
post #683 of 835
Thread Starter 
In order to get the fabric square, we rolled it out on a flat floor and then I used a large framing square and a 4 foot straight-edge to get a close approximation of where we needed to cut. (Fabric chalk works real well for marking the GOM). I then double checked for square using the 3-4-5 rule (pythagorean theorem). If you're not familiar with this little rule for making sure something is prefectly square, it is a great little concept to keep in your bag of tricks... At the corner that you want a perfect 90 degree angle, measure 3 feet in one direction and 4 feet in the other direction. If it is perfectly square, the diagonal measure between the end points of those two lines will be exactly 5 feet. (any multiple of 3-4-5 works as well -- e.g. 6-8-10; 9-12-15, etc.)
post #684 of 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady_ View Post

I am really impressed with all of the solutions that some of you have managed to implement.

I haven't read the entire thread, but I did notice Pocoloco's latest posts about using Somfy Motors and Constant Tension Springs (which I think were mentioned before somewhere in the 23 pages).

I work in motorized roller shade manufacturing and that proposed solution was the first thing I thought of when I saw what the goal of this thread was. I am big on DIY and enjoy using my MacGyver skills so I can really appreciate what is been done so far.

I figured I could answer some of the questions about Somfy, ESI, and other companies' offerings. We use some constant spring boxes on some of our shades and the ones we use pull about 7 lbs constantly over around 10' of travel. I'd also consider using the Somfy ILT motor as it has a lot of options for control, it is encoder based for accuracy, and comes in a quiet version.

I'll try to check back often, and/or set my preferences to email me when there is a response or PM, but I am eager to help if I can (as I'll probably be looking for solutions in the near future).

Shady,

Will those "constant spring boxes" work mounted in a vertical position ? And are they an off the shelf item, anyone can purchase?

John
post #685 of 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy238 View Post

Hey all,

In case you're having trouble seeing Bob Trinanes' old relay wiring schematics here they are. I think I"m going to go his route and use his original wiring diagram (#1). Very simple.

Andy

Andy:
Did you ever implement any of Bob Tirnanes' designs?
post #686 of 835
ScottJ007:
Incredible work. I am going to follow the trail that you and others have blazed. By the way, I believe that the rotator you used is still available.
post #687 of 835
I said that? Boy that was a while ago!

Nah, I've been too lazy and just enjoying the theater. Someday I'll get around to masking...

Andy
post #688 of 835
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

ScottJ007:
.... By the way, I believe that the rotator you used is still available.

Cool. I thought they were discontinued. Thanks for the post!
post #689 of 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Horizontal Masking...

I know this diagram and the last one are pretty busy. Sorry about that but it is easier for me to explain it this way than trying to put it into words. After this I'll post some pictures...


Scott:

I have read the entire thread once, and plan to read it again, and suggest minor tweaks that might improve the system. This, in an effort to improve my understanding, because I plan on building a similar system in the future. Since I don't have a screen with a masking system, some of these suggestions based purely on design may not be practical. So, here goes:

You could run the vertical cable (for the horizontal masks) through an eye so that the last segment of the cable going to the lower horizontal mask is parallel to the motion of the same mask. Right now, it appears that it makes a small angle. Making the path parallel will ensure that both top and bottom masks move at the same speed and same distance. In reality, the improvement may be minor and not worth the extra effort.

It might be worth creating a website that provides all the final assembly, parts information including best practices suggested by reviewers.
post #690 of 835
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

These photos are of the lower left corner of the masking, from the front side:

with screen in place, side masking removed -


the "U" channel for the cross bar is essential. Without it, the cross-bar tends to flop forward. It also guides it within 1/4" of the face of the screen.


-notice in this picture that there is a zip-tie wrapped tightly around the end of the cross piece of aluminum, inside of the aluminum "U" channel. This has two purposes, first it makes it more snug, and secondly, it helps the two pieces of metal slide easily and quietly.


with masking fully extended -

Wherever you need channels to direct motion of the masks, you could use bi-fold door tracks and matching rollers, as someone has already suggested on this thread. These are specifically designed for this purpose.
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