4-Way Acoustically Transparent Masking - Page 27

Are you using the relays specified earlier in this thread? Those are what I'm using and mine is working fine.

No I am using a different relay because I am using a 110v motor to run the masking. Here is what I am using PB170-ND

Hi Scott (the op of this thread), How is your system doing? Any changes made?

Interesting. Your experience perhaps speaks to differences in how we both use our 4 way masking systems. Mine is 4-way, remote controlled, with lots of pre-sets. I use a Variable Size System - just varying entire image sizes to my taste, and I've got something like 18 pre-sets for different ARs at different sizes.

When I was designing my system I didn't know whether I'd tend to just re-size the image and then re-size the masking to fit, or whether I'd end up employing pre-sets at all. It turned out that pre-sets were extremely helpful.
If I didn't have pre-sets and I changed from a smaller image to a larger image I'd have to do something like:

1. Press a button or two and wait for all the masking to open up revealing the full screen space.
2. Re-size the image using the zoom control.
3. Start jogging the side masking in until it meets the sides of the image.
4. Shift the image vertically upward (because zooming lowers the image center of the image) until it seems centered.
5. Shift the top/bottom masking to fit...probably having to fine tune vertical image shift again as well.

With my image pre-sets I know have a good idea how big or small I want the image. So now if I want to shift the image to a new bigger (or smaller or wider...) size I:

1. Press the macro button for the new image size.
2. While the screen is changing the macro puts the lens "zoom" function on screen and I press zoom, letting go when it finishes expanding to meet the sides of the new pre-set image.
3. Shift image vertically into place.

Done. Takes about 12 seconds. (Unless the image is somehow non-standard and another jog of the vertical masking button is required).

I find it much easier to zoom the image to fit the masked image size than I do trying to both zoom the image AND re-fit the masking to the image.

But, again, that's probably because of the way I'm doing things vs. your approach.


So true. My whole system was designed around the concept of masking and having the image surrounded by black. Goal one for any other system I might set up in the future.

Yours looks fantastic!

While mine is only 2 way I also love the presets and wouldn't be with out them. I have got it down to where I really only need 4 now. 4:3, 16:9, 1.85, and 2.40.

Anything that is over 1.85 I project as 2.4, the very small amount of over spill top and bottom is lost in the masking. With my screen I only have about 5/8" of an inch of over spill when progecting 2.35 and 2.40 so it is next to nothing. Electronic masking gets rid of any over spill that is on top so that is no issue.

I am on the middle of planning a complete revamp to my system, which has been pretty flawless so far. Wish I could find a better option then the rotor but really haven't so far. It does work but can be finiky once in a while.

I was planning 4 way originally. But now after having it I am really glad I only did two way, I think the 4 way would have been over kill for me. But may be do to my screen size, 56.5" tall.

Scott:

How did you finally end up implementing the 'roller end' of the 'cable wrap'? Do you have any pictures to post? Also, any pictures to post on the horizontal masks? Thanks. I am getting ready to implement this system.

Will this motor do the job?

No one can really answer that. It all depends on how much torque it takes to run your masking, the motor has to have enough power to do it.

The one you show doesn't have a rear shaft extended so you are going to have to do a little work on it.

I picked up on of these Gear Motor used on E-Bay for $45. Has alot more torque and extended rear shaft. Plus it is 120v so no need for power supply. I haven't used it yet as I am doing a redesign on my system that will use it.

Were you able to eventually eliminate all the problems/hiccups you were having with your motorized system? And if you ever watch a movie with an aspect ratio of greater than 2.40, what do you do? (e.g. Ben Hur, Lawrence of Arabia)
Edited by DIYHomeTheater - 12/8/12 at 5:56pm

I can actually go 2.55 ratio max. But really I have never watched anything over 2.4. If I did I think what I would do it fit the image to the height of my screen and loose the image on the sides that falls over the masking.

Depending on what problems you are talking about, yes my system has been running pretty much perfect right now. But I am actually going to complete redo it this winter, have my plans almost done. What I have works but it is pretty noisey and I am getting alot of wear on the threaded rod type of system that I used.

What are the changes that you are making to the masking system? I am building mine now. Would appreciate any new insights. Thanks

Sorry to hear about the sewer line backup.
I didnt realize that people were having problems with the Eagle Aspen rotors. I didn't see too many problems on this forum. Timely feedback - I will change tack and drop the idea of presets. Did/will you motorize the horizontal masking as well?
Thanks

I think that your diagram is wrong (slightly). The polarity on one of the relay switches should be opposite of the other one. You have them wired identically. Instead, when one is functioning as negative, the other should be functioning as positive.

In a CIH setup with an anamorphic lens, you may not need to move the top and bottom masks much. Mopar Mudder decided against it, and I am contemplating only a single motor (although I did make provisions to motorize them if I decide to later on)

For a total of 4 CC12s? All four masks will be independently controllable?

I am going to a cable and pulley system -vrs- the threaded rod type system that I have now. That will alow me to use a motor in the 15rpm area instead of 800rpms that I am at now. What I have works perfect but I would like it alot quieter and and I am getting some metal filings behind the screen from the threaded rods. If I wanted to spend alot of money I could do a far simpler set-up. But I am being cheap and the design is 1/2 the fun. I have it all designed and drawn up in Sketchup, hope to maybe start and making parts next month.

As far as the rotor goes I have had no issues with doing the rest once I figured out how to make it work. What I have to do is after calling for a reset wait for the masking to get to its full open position and kill power to the motor only. I have a simple switch on the masking wall that will cut power to the motor incase something were to go wrong. Doing this is resets perfect every time. If I don't do this the motor will advance the masking slightly at the very end of the reset, then it will always try and open like it is reversed. Again just shutting of the power to the motor so it can't do that little advance make it work eveytime. I have an idea it has to do with the reset switches, either their is a timing it is looking for from once switch to the next or something.

The other problem that I had after about a year I can no longer fully close my masking. Well I can but then when I try and open it again it will only open about 1/2 way and then rotor control goes all crazy and I have to leave it uplugged for like 1/2 hour before it will work again. I tried contacting Eagle and the best I could get was it may be drawing too much power and shutting down. So possibly the relays that I use to run my 110v motor are drawing too much? New system will have a much smaller motor and alow me to use a small silent relay, the ones I have now you can hear click.
Edited by Mopar_Mudder - 12/31/12 at 1:15pm

Aren't there relays available that will allow independent control of two switches?
And this figure at Xantech's website shows the CC12 connected to the 'Up/Down' terminals of the device to be controlled. What does the 'Momentary' terminal do?

Also, Figure 5 of the manual (available at http://www.xantech.com/manuals/CC12.pdf) describes how the Momentary (MMT) command works for the CC12. Could that offer a solution?

Also, how did you fasten the masking to the roller bars?
Edited by DIYHomeTheater - 12/31/12 at 9:45am

Thanks for sharing. Your link does not work. I am abandoning the Eagle Aspen rotor path and pursuing the Xantech (or equivalent) method that Scott described.

Not sure what link you are talking about but here is a link to my screen thread http://www.avsforum.com/t/1229614/my-vertical-masking-master-plan

I wouldn't mind another option to the rotor. But I still want presets. Reason being when I am done I hope to have it automated to a point where the screen changes size by itself when the movie starts with out haviing to push a botton. Also mine is a little different in that I close my masking all the way to cover the screen when not in use, this greatly complites the design also. So I need a preset for closed and open. Another words when I hit the power off on my Harmony it calls up a preset that closes the screen all the way.

When you wrote in your previous post, "the ones I have now you can here click.", I thought that there was a link that one had to click to. I believe that meant to write 'hear' - that changes the meaning. Its clear now. No worries.

Here is a link to IR controllobale relay switches in multiple configurations (UK site): http://www.quasarelectronics.co.uk/relay-boards.htm#Infrared-Activated-Relay-Boards