AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › 2.35:1 Constant Image Height Chat › DIY Constant Height › 4-Way Acoustically Transparent Masking
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

4-Way Acoustically Transparent Masking - Page 28

post #811 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

When you wrote in your previous post, "the ones I have now you can here click.", I thought that there was a link that one had to click to. I believe that meant to write 'hear' - that changes the meaning. Its clear now. No worries.

Ah yep you are correct, I better go fix that redface.gif
post #812 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Here's a video. In this video I'm using the Xantech remote. One button opens the side masks and one button closes the masks. Of course I will "learn" these buttons to my Harmony Univeral Remote so I don't have to use the Xantech remote.
Looks like you aced it!
post #813 of 829
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Here is a link to IR controllobale relay switches in multiple configurations (UK site): http://www.quasarelectronics.co.uk/relay-boards.htm#Infrared-Activated-Relay-Boards
Those might work too. You might want to verify that the IR can be used with a standard universal remote. Are you going to go with one of those boards rather than the Xantech?
post #814 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Those might work too. You might want to verify that the IR can be used with a standard universal remote. Are you going to go with one of those boards rather than the Xantech?
No, I think that I will go with the Xantech for convenience reasons:
- tech support in case there are any issues will be more difficult with a foreign supplier
- Xantech is supported by a number of home automation companies (Roomie, iRule, etc.)
- Cost is nearly the same, even if you buy the 12 relay remote that you can buy from the UK-based company
post #815 of 829
Thread Starter 
I programmed my Logitech Harmony One universal remote and thought I'd post about a minor issue that I had to resolve. I don't know if this will apply to other remotes or not.

First of all, the Xantech CC12 relay responds to 4 commands:
1) "On" switches the relay from the "NC" (normally closed) position to the "NO" (normally open) position. It stays on until power is lost or until it is turned off.
2) "Off" switches the relay back to the "NC" position after it has been turned on.
3) "Toggle" switches the relay from whatever position it is currently in ("NC" or "NO") to the opposite position.
4) "Momentary" will switch the relay from the OFF ("NC") to ON ("NO") only for as long as the momentary command is being sent to the relay, when you stop sending the command and let go of the button the relay goes back to the OFF position.

The only command I want to use is the last one, "Momentary".

When I programmed the remote, the Logitech database had the Xantech CC12 as one of the component options so I selected it. The problem was that once you select a component the Harmony assumes that you want to turn it ON. This was a problem because every time I turned on my system the masks would turn "ON" (#1 above). I didn't want this.

To solve the problem, I simply went into the programming options and selected an option that let me tell the Harmony that this component did not have an on/off button. This stopped it from sending the "ON" command.
post #816 of 829
The Xantech website states that the CC12, 'requires an RC68X programmer (Sold Separately)'. Did you need to purchase this? If you have a smartphone or a tablet, you may be able to ditch your Logitech remotes and install Roomie/ iRule/other software that will function as a universal remote.
post #817 of 829
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

The Xantech website states that the CC12, 'requires an RC68X programmer (Sold Separately)'. Did you need to purchase this? If you have a smartphone or a tablet, you may be able to ditch your Logitech remotes and install Roomie/ iRule/other software that will function as a universal remote.

Yes, I bought a slightly used Xantech RC68X programmer remote (You can see a little bit of it in the video I posted). I used it to teach the codes to my Logitech. I probably didn't really need to get the RC68X but I was wanting to get the project done quickly and I didn't want to take the time to look up the codes, etc.

I've just started looking into Roomie/ iRule. Looks like a very cool solution. I will eventually move in that direction rather than the dedicated universal remote.
post #818 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

In my video above, you can hear the xantech relays click and you can hear the motor as well. It isn't obnoxious though.
Scott
Can you post the wiring schematic for your new circuit!
Best wishes for the new year.
post #819 of 829
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Scott
Can you post the wiring schematic for your new circuit!
Best wishes for the new year.

Here's another wiring diagram. All three shown below are essentially the same thing, just a little different format...









Note that the Xantech CC12 has a little dial in the upper left corner for a "Code Sub-Group". Each one is set to a different group so that the "momentary" command is unique for each. This way they do not all respond to the same IR command. The instruction manuals from Xantech provide details on how to set these groups.
Edited by ScottJ0007 - 1/2/13 at 10:56am
post #820 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Here's another wiring diagram. All three shown below are essentially the same thing, just a little different format...
Note that the Xantech CC12 has a little dial in the upper left corner for a "Code Sub-Group". Each one is set to a different group so that the "momentary" command is unique for each. This way they do not all respond to the same IR command. The instruction manuals from Xantech provide details on how to set these groups.

Scott, are you using any of the following: 'Xantech IR Receivers, Keypads and Connecting Blocks'? If so, which one? I don't see them in your pictures or circuit diagram. I dont think that the CC12 has its own IR receiver, correct?
Thanks
post #821 of 829
Thread Starter 
In my diagram I show the IR going to an IR connecting block. Any major brand should work.

For most of my IR throughout my theater and home I am using Xantech. It also interfaces with my Lutron Grafik eye lighting system and I have a couple of off brand receivers scattered around as well.

When I built my theater I ran a couple of extra Cat5e wires to the my screen wall from my A/V rack/closet for IR so I have an IR receiver above my screen. The majority of my IR connecting blocks, emitters, power supplies, etc are in my equipment closet.

What IR system are you using in your theater? I would think that the CC12 should work with any major brand of IR distribution products.
post #822 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

In my diagram I show the IR going to an IR connecting block. Any major brand should work.
For most of my IR throughout my theater and home I am using Xantech. It also interfaces with my Lutron Grafik eye lighting system and I have a couple of off brand receivers scattered around as well.
When I built my theater I ran a couple of extra Cat5e wires to the my screen wall from my A/V rack/closet for IR so I have an IR receiver above my screen. The majority of my IR connecting blocks, emitters, power supplies, etc are in my equipment closet.
What IR system are you using in your theater? I would think that the CC12 should work with any major brand of IR distribution products.
I didnt think of running low voltage cables from the AV rack to the screen area. However, Global Cache products work well with iRule/Roomie and I can use my smart phone/tablet:
http://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/wf2irspecs/
I am planning on putting one in my front screen for: masking, projector, and lens sled; and another near the AV rack. This way, all my controls will be off a smart phone/tablet
post #823 of 829
I am having trouble (no friction) with the vinyl-wrapped 1/16" cable and pulleys. The cables keep slipping. I tired plastic and aluminum pulleys. Due to the slippage, the masks do not move. Anything that I should be doing to increase the friction?
Thanks
post #824 of 829
Thread Starter 
I wrapped the cable around the pulley twice to gain additional friction.
post #825 of 829
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post


Here is how my vertical masking motor is mounted....

Here is a picture from an earlier post. It is kind of hard to see, but the green cable is wrapped twice around each pulley.
post #826 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

I wrapped the cable around the pulley twice to gain additional friction.
I cant tell the dimension of your pulley from the picture. Mine are 1-1/2" dia. That appears to be smaller than yours, and too small to create the necessary friction even with double wrapping. More wrapping causes the cable to be pinched by itself.
post #827 of 829
Thread Starter 
I'm not at my theater now to measure the pulleys, but I would guess they are about 2 1/2". My suggestions would be:

1) Try bigger pulleys for more surface/friction surface.

2) Make absolutely sure that your side masking rollers spin VERY easily. Back early in this thread I have some pictures that show the roller and thrust bearing setup I have on my rollers. Before I motorized my masking, I could move the side masks with only slight pressure with two fingers. If your masking is at all difficult to move you will have problems with the motor pulley.

- Scott
post #828 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

2) Make absolutely sure that your side masking rollers spin VERY easily. Back early in this thread I have some pictures that show the roller and thrust bearing setup I have on my rollers. Before I motorized my masking, I could move the side masks with only slight pressure with two fingers. If your masking is at all difficult to move you will have problems with the motor pulley.
- Scott

Good advice. Thanks. It worked for the left masking. Now, I got to try it for the right side. I put in masking that can travel 35" on each side (in case I decide to reduce the size of the screen. Now the problem is that in the fully extended position, the top edge of the masking sags under its own weight. The sag disappears when the masking is retracted.
post #829 of 829
Finally got my left/right masks to move symmetrically. Ensuring minimum friction is the key.

Scott, can you post the specs on the diodes that you used? I checked Radio Shack for diodes capable of 20V/5A, but they don't seem to have any. Thanks
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Constant Height
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › 2.35:1 Constant Image Height Chat › DIY Constant Height › 4-Way Acoustically Transparent Masking