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Official Polaroid TLX-03210B (32" HD LCD) Owner's Thread - Page 2

post #31 of 94
This TV is incredible, not only for it's unbeatable price, but it really is a very nice 32" LCD TV. Go out and look all over at the "big name" TVs and what features they have and what available inputs, etc. You will pay at least 2 times this price for a TV with less abilities than this set.

I won't mention names, but try to find out how many big name TV of this size support PC resolutions higher than 1366x768 @60hz. You won't find many. I have so far input my PC to this TV at 1680x1050 @75hz, this leads me to assume it would cap out at 1920x1080 and being that I can CONFIRM it will accept up to an 85hz signal, this is a 120hz TV, VERY impressive. Most big name manufacturers ONLY have that on their top of line models.

To answer the 1080p questions some have posted. The TV is a 720p display meaning it displays at 720 at ALL times. This resolution that displays in the corner is what the TV is receiving. ie: if receiving a 480i the TV upconverts to 720 and deinterlaces to progressive. If receiving a 1080i/p, the TV downconverts to 720p to display.

The viewing angle on the TV is as good as it gets. The black levels are pretty impressive as well. I don't see any bleed through from the backlight on the sides, bottom, etc.

It's impossible to find internal specs on this unit so far, but based on comparison, I think the panel is a 10bit and the video processor seems to be 14bit. Don't quote me on that though.

Honestly I bought 2 of these expecting to get a $450 LCD and not expect much from it, but feel I got my money's worth. I can firmly say right now, that if one of the two fell over and busted today I'd still feel like I got my money's worth just from 1.

Of course some people are gonna have problems, it's man made what do you expect? perfection obviously. Well, join reality NOBODY makes a perfect product, ALL with have some units that fail. Most online "reviews" on LCDs are from people who bought it online and had it shipped to them. The manufacturer's packaging simply is NOT designed for individual shipment and you stand a much higher chance of receiving a defective product. It's not the manufacturer's fault the shipping company damaged the panel.

Those who bought this unit got a great deal, those who returned it will find out later that they made a huge mistake. Oh well, I know I'll be enjoying mine
post #32 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by It's a jelly View Post

This TV is incredible, not only for it's unbeatable price, but it really is a very nice 32" LCD TV. Go out and look all over at the "big name" TVs and what features they have and what available inputs, etc. You will pay at least 2 times this price for a TV with less abilities than this set.

I won't mention names, but try to find out how many big name TV of this size support PC resolutions higher than 1366x768 @60hz. You won't find many. I have so far input my PC to this TV at 1680x1050 @75hz, this leads me to assume it would cap out at 1920x1080 and being that I can CONFIRM it will accept up to an 85hz signal, this is a 120hz TV, VERY impressive. Most big name manufacturers ONLY have that on their top of line models.

To answer the 1080p questions some have posted. The TV is a 720p display meaning it displays at 720 at ALL times. This resolution that displays in the corner is what the TV is receiving. ie: if receiving a 480i the TV upconverts to 720 and deinterlaces to progressive. If receiving a 1080i/p, the TV downconverts to 720p to display.

The viewing angle on the TV is as good as it gets. The black levels are pretty impressive as well. I don't see any bleed through from the backlight on the sides, bottom, etc.

It's impossible to find internal specs on this unit so far, but based on comparison, I think the panel is a 10bit and the video processor seems to be 14bit. Don't quote me on that though.

Honestly I bought 2 of these expecting to get a $450 LCD and not expect much from it, but feel I got my money's worth. I can firmly say right now, that if one of the two fell over and busted today I'd still feel like I got my money's worth just from 1.

Of course some people are gonna have problems, it's man made what do you expect? perfection obviously. Well, join reality NOBODY makes a perfect product, ALL with have some units that fail. Most online "reviews" on LCDs are from people who bought it online and had it shipped to them. The manufacturer's packaging simply is NOT designed for individual shipment and you stand a much higher chance of receiving a defective product. It's not the manufacturer's fault the shipping company damaged the panel.

Those who bought this unit got a great deal, those who returned it will find out later that they made a huge mistake. Oh well, I know I'll be enjoying mine

Thanks for the information above. That makes a lot of sense once I think about it. I finally got a chance to play a PS3 game last night and thought it looked absolutely amazing. I think this might be the best TV purchase I've ever made. I was a little worried going into Black Friday that I couldn't find any information about this set, but I'm not disappointed one bit.
post #33 of 94
Does anyone know if this TV supports HDCP. I hear that Dish Network will be forced to use HDCP sometime next year.
post #34 of 94
Yes, any HDTV with an HDMI inputs supports HDCP and most TVs with DVI inputs do as well.

ALL HD cable/ satellite boxes, upconverting DVD players and HD DVD/ Blue Ray players use HDCP verification.

HDCP (High bandwidth Digital Copy Protection).

If you have any issues using HDMI, be sure to have both the TV and source device turned OFF and turn the TV on first, and set it to the HDMI input you are using, THEN power on the source device.
post #35 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by It's a jelly View Post

Yes, any HDTV with an HDMI inputs supports HDCP and most TVs with DVI inputs do as well.

ALL HD cable/ satellite boxes, upconverting DVD players and HD DVD/ Blue Ray players use HDCP verification.

HDCP (High bandwidth Digital Copy Protection).

If you have any issues using HDMI, be sure to have both the TV and source device turned OFF and turn the TV on first, and set it to the HDMI input you are using, THEN power on the source device.

Thanks for the info. My hitachi specified HDCP in the user manual but the polaroid didn't. So I wasn't sure.
post #36 of 94
Need information. I to was lucky enough to get my hands on one of these sets on Black Friday. It's meant for a Christmas gift so it's still wrapped until the big day. Just wondering do I need a hd tuner to be able to watch the tv in hdtv format or is there something in the tv that will alow us to watch the tv in hdtv. I have been seeing this box advertised by my cable company called a motorola 6416 dual tuner hd-pvr. Any one know if I need one of these or not? Thanks
post #37 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmy ho View Post

Need information. I to was lucky enough to get my hands on one of these sets on Black Friday. It's meant for a Christmas gift so it's still wrapped until the big day. Just wondering do I need a hd tuner to be able to watch the tv in hdtv format or is there something in the tv that will alow us to watch the tv in hdtv. I have been seeing this box advertised by my cable company called a motorola 6416 dual tuner hd-pvr. Any one know if I need one of these or not? Thanks

This unit has built in ATSC and Qam tuners, meaning you can either get an antenna (go to antennaweb.org to find out what antenna will work for your specific location) OR if you have cable you can get your local HD channels, just do a channel scan and look for channels with number like 118-2 etc. To get premium HD channels like ESPNHD, Discovery HD etc you would need the box from the cable company.

Although you were already kind enough to shell out that kind of money for someone's Christmas gift, I say go beyond that and spend another $45 to get them the 3 year extended warranty, which starts AFTER the manufacturer's 1 year warranty ends. Gotta love Wally World warranties. As far as I know, Wally World lets you go back and purchase the extended warranty ANYTIME during the manufacturer's warranty.
post #38 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by It's a jelly View Post

This unit has built in ATSC and Qam tuners, meaning you can either get an antenna (go to antennaweb.org to find out what antenna will work for your specific location) OR if you have cable you can get your local HD channels, just do a channel scan and look for channels with number like 118-2 etc. To get premium HD channels like ESPNHD, Discovery HD etc you would need the box from the cable company.

Although you were already kind enough to shell out that kind of money for someone's Christmas gift, I say go beyond that and spend another $45 to get them the 3 year extended warranty, which starts AFTER the manufacturer's 1 year warranty ends. Gotta love Wally World warranties. As far as I know, Wally World lets you go back and purchase the extended warranty ANYTIME during the manufacturer's warranty.

sometimes you can pick up the pay channels. i get espn-hd and espn-2 hd for free.
post #39 of 94
I got one of these on T+1 as well. So far I think it's a bargain. At first I was a little disappointed because I was comparing the picture to my 60" Pioneer (which rocks.) I finally had to shake my head and step back to realize I was comparing apples and oranges. I now think it has a nice picture for the price. I've shopped around since and have only found one or two sets that come close to the price I paid for this TV and most are substantially more. I feel better and better about the purchase every day assuming the set holds up (I didn't get an extended warranty.)

I came here for settings and will try those recommended earlier in this thread and look forward to any other recommendations.

For those questioning if it has a QAM, it definitely does. I receive 40+ digital channels through the QAM and another 50 digital music channels. It actually picks up a couple of stations my Pioneer doesn't but the Pio has a much longer cable run so I think it's a signal strength issue that I'm going to try and rectify with an amplifier.
post #40 of 94
OK, I have a HDTV noob question. I purchased the TLX-03210B like many others did on Black Friday (got mine for $438 because it was mislabeled ) but I have not been allowed to open it yet because it is my Christmas present. I have been looking at the pics on the web and stuff and I have a question about HDMI. We have Comcast digital cable and we signed up for the HD package and had our cable box swapped out for the HD box. I also have an Xbox 360 which is in the process of being repaired and swapped out with the one that has HDMI support. My Xbox was connected via optical to my surround sound system. I see that this TV has an optical out audio port. Does this mean I can connect my cable box to HDMI 1 and my 360 to HDMI 2 and run my optical cable from the optical out on the TV to the optical in on my surround sound system and have surround sound for both my cable and my 360?
post #41 of 94
JTFIELDS: Go back and get the warranty. It's like $29 for a 2 year and $45 for a 3 year. Being that the Wal-Mart warranties don't start until the manufacturer's ends, you can take your receipt back to the store and purchase it anytime within the manufacturer's coverage.

CAPTAIN_DL: My opinion is to use component for your cable box. You won't loose any quality. Using HDMI for the cable box can lead to some headaches with HDCP verification at times. These are easy to fix in most cases, but why bother, just use component.

As for the optical output, this can be used to PASS THROUGH incoming digital audio signals. Once again, using this method usually just causes headaches. For people using an antenna, this output is very handy, but anything else I would just go straight from the device to the audio receiver. No reason to send a signal to something that can't process it. This is just as wasteful as running video cables in and out of an audio receiver, I just can't see any logical reason to do it.

The only device I am using HDMI with is my HD DVD player and that is simply because I HAVE to use HDMI in order to use the upconverting feature on copy protected standard DVDs, otherwise I'd use component for it too.

Try it both ways and see how you like it, but I say save your money instead of wasting it on HDMI cables when component will give you the same picture.
post #42 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by It's a jelly View Post

Try it both ways and see how you like it, but I say save your money instead of wasting it on HDMI cables when component will give you the same picture.

Thanks. I'll try them out. My thought was that doing both connections through HDMI, I can get my 360 and cable into my surround sound. If I use component, only my 360 can be connected to my surround sound since my surround sound system has only one Optical In port.
post #43 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_dl View Post

my surround sound system has only one Optical In port.

You can get a splitter for that. I have the same problem. Too many digital audio devices, not enough digital inputs on my receiver. I use optical for my HD DVD player and for my PS2. All you need is 3 optical cables. One from each device to the splitter, then one from the splitter to the audio receiver. Just make sure you only have one device powered on at a time, it won't hurt anything, but your sound will go in and out if they are both on.

Igot my splitter from Radio Shack, I think. I see them on amazon for $2, just search for "optical splitter".
post #44 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by It's a jelly View Post

You can get a splitter for that. I have the same problem. Too many digital audio devices, not enough digital inputs on my receiver. I use optical for my HD DVD player and for my PS2. All you need is 3 optical cables. One from each device to the splitter, then one from the splitter to the audio receiver. Just make sure you only have one device powered on at a time, it won't hurt anything, but your sound will go in and out if they are both on.

Igot my splitter from Radio Shack, I think. I see them on amazon for $2, just search for "optical splitter".

Great to know. Thanks. I have seen the splitters but thought they were for 1 output device to two inputs. I was told I needed an optical switch for two outputs to one input.
post #45 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by It's a jelly View Post

This TV is incredible, not only for it's unbeatable price, but it really is a very nice 32" LCD TV. Go out and look all over at the "big name" TVs and what features they have and what available inputs, etc. You will pay at least 2 times this price for a TV with less abilities than this set.

I won't mention names, but try to find out how many big name TV of this size support PC resolutions higher than 1366x768 @60hz. You won't find many. I have so far input my PC to this TV at 1680x1050 @75hz, this leads me to assume it would cap out at 1920x1080 and being that I can CONFIRM it will accept up to an 85hz signal, this is a 120hz TV, VERY impressive. Most big name manufacturers ONLY have that on their top of line models.

To answer the 1080p questions some have posted. The TV is a 720p display meaning it displays at 720 at ALL times. This resolution that displays in the corner is what the TV is receiving. ie: if receiving a 480i the TV upconverts to 720 and deinterlaces to progressive. If receiving a 1080i/p, the TV downconverts to 720p to display.

The viewing angle on the TV is as good as it gets. The black levels are pretty impressive as well. I don't see any bleed through from the backlight on the sides, bottom, etc.

It's impossible to find internal specs on this unit so far, but based on comparison, I think the panel is a 10bit and the video processor seems to be 14bit. Don't quote me on that though.

Honestly I bought 2 of these expecting to get a $450 LCD and not expect much from it, but feel I got my money's worth. I can firmly say right now, that if one of the two fell over and busted today I'd still feel like I got my money's worth just from 1.

Of course some people are gonna have problems, it's man made what do you expect? perfection obviously. Well, join reality NOBODY makes a perfect product, ALL with have some units that fail. Most online "reviews" on LCDs are from people who bought it online and had it shipped to them. The manufacturer's packaging simply is NOT designed for individual shipment and you stand a much higher chance of receiving a defective product. It's not the manufacturer's fault the shipping company damaged the panel.

Those who bought this unit got a great deal, those who returned it will find out later that they made a huge mistake. Oh well, I know I'll be enjoying mine

QFT
post #46 of 94
The TV looks great in Cinema mode with the green turned down to 110... when watching TV broadcasts and DVDs that is. Unfortunately, my Wii doesn't look so hot on it at all with these settings and I'm not sure what's wrong... it's mostly only noticeable in the menus but everything looks completely over-saturated to the point the black and light blue text are nearly unreadable because they are so faint. I've hooked the Wii up to a different LCD TV and it looked great so I know it's something with the Polaroid. Any suggestions?
post #47 of 94
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraph_84 View Post

The TV looks great in Cinema mode with the green turned down to 110... when watching TV broadcasts and DVDs that is. Unfortunately, my Wii doesn't look so hot on it at all with these settings and I'm not sure what's wrong... it's mostly only noticeable in the menus but everything looks completely over-saturated to the point the black and light blue text are nearly unreadable because they are so faint. I've hooked the Wii up to a different LCD TV and it looking great so I know it's something with the Polaroid. Any suggestions?


Are you running the Wii via the optional component? If not, it's not even gonna be 480p. As far as visuals go, I think the Wii can't hang with the 360 or PS3 so it's not gonna look the prettiest. I can tell you for fact, my 360 looks fantastic in HD.
post #48 of 94
Help....Anyone. I'm not sure if I'm posting this correctly. I'm not replying.....but do have a question.

Has anyone tried wall mounting this LCD? The box indicates the VESA for this mode is 200x400 and yet I can't seem to find a wall mount for it. Any assistance would be greatly appreicated.
post #49 of 94
ANY mount that says it is compatible within those specs would work.
Example: the mount says it is compatible with bolt patterns of 200x200 to 600x600. This mount would work since 200x400 is within these specs. As long as the mount specs lowest # is equal to or lower than 200 and the highest number is equal to or greater than 400, you should be good.

Also, I'm pretty sure when you view this model on the wal mart site, it shows a mount you can buy for it.
post #50 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by aod View Post

Are you running the Wii via the optional component? If not, it's not even gonna be 480p. As far as visuals go, I think the Wii can't hang with the 360 or PS3 so it's not gonna look the prettiest. I can tell you for fact, my 360 looks fantastic in HD.

Yeah, I'm using the component cables... I have it set to run in 480p. Anyone else have a suggestion? Just to give an example of the problem: Any letters on the Wii message board are nearly unreadable because the black type is too faint... no matter how low I set the contrast and bright settings.
post #51 of 94
I too am enjoying this TV, especially with my xbox360!

My question is the best hook up for cable (not digital) without a cable box. Should I plug the cable straight from the wall into the back of this TV, or go through my DVD/VCR Combo? I am thinking if I went thru the VCR, I would lose the HD OTA signal since the DVD/VCR unit is not HD. Plus, I don't believe the VCR side has component out, just composite, so not sure if that would provide a better picture than straight cable to the TV.
post #52 of 94
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny8ball View Post

I too am enjoying this TV, especially with my xbox360!

My question is the best hook up for cable (not digital) without a cable box. Should I plug the cable straight from the wall into the back of this TV, or go through my DVD/VCR Combo? I am thinking if I went thru the VCR, I would lose the HD OTA signal since the DVD/VCR unit is not HD. Plus, I don't believe the VCR side has component out, just composite, so not sure if that would provide a better picture than straight cable to the TV.

You answered your own questions. Go straight from the wall and this TV will pick up the available HD channels on it's own. Bypass the middle man altogether.
post #53 of 94
Thank AOD, that's what I thought but wanted to ask the experts.
post #54 of 94
are there any optimal settings yet. this tv is very nice.
post #55 of 94
bump. any optimal settings?

also, i have to say...i think that polaroid surpasses olevia in the best budget brand category.
post #56 of 94
I used the AVIA Guide To Home Theater DVD to setup my TV and the picture is perfect. I have both my 360 and Wii connected component and my DVD connected S Video. It all looks great!
post #57 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_dl View Post

I used the AVIA Guide To Home Theater DVD to setup my TV and the picture is perfect. I have both my 360 and Wii connected component and my DVD connected S Video. It all looks great!

i used that but for some reason it didnt turn out so good.
post #58 of 94
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_dl View Post

I used the AVIA Guide To Home Theater DVD to setup my TV and the picture is perfect. I have both my 360 and Wii connected component and my DVD connected S Video. It all looks great!

What do you have everything set at?
post #59 of 94
OK, my story.

I purchaced the Element brand 720p LCD TV similar to Polaroid FLM 3202 on Black Friday of 2006 but I have had intermittent problems with this set since April 2007. In October I requested a replacement set from Element and from Polaroid. After much run-around, today, Polaroid the delivered by Fed-Ex the TLX-0321B.

Now I know that my FLM did NOT have a QAM tuner and was unable to pick up HD from basic analog cable (Comcast in SF area), it had a 16ms response time, only 1 HDMI input, and it DID have PIP. I have not gone home yet to set up the TV and test it. But did polaroid give me an upgrade with this newer TV with QAM, 8ms, 2 HDMI and no PIP? if so, should I be happier with this trade?
post #60 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by edsol View Post

OK, my story.

I purchaced the Element brand 720p LCD TV similar to Polaroid FLM 3202 on Black Friday of 2006 but I have had intermittent problems with this set since April 2007. In October I requested a replacement set from Element and from Polaroid. After much run-around, today, Polaroid the delivered by Fed-Ex the TLX-0321B.

Now I know that my FLM did NOT have a QAM tuner and was unable to pick up HD from basic analog cable (Comcast in SF area), it had a 16ms response time, only 1 HDMI input, and it DID have PIP. I have not gone home yet to set up the TV and test it. But did polaroid give me an upgrade with this newer TV with QAM, 8ms, 2 HDMI and no PIP? if so, should I be happier with this trade?

OHYEAH!!
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