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How to hang a FPTV with Unistrut - Page 2  

post #31 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by BGPGuy
I love this post! Thank you! I would only add that the third piece of unistrut when running parallel with joists limits your ability to raise/lower projector.
You mean the middle piece? Because the if you raised the projector far enough the bolts would hit the projector itself?

True, but don't forget that while this setup is used by many because it's cheap and flexible, you should still be getting your install correct to within an inch or so. Then use the flexibility of the Unistrut to move the projector in all 6 directions by an inch or two at the most until it's bang-on. This setup is not meant to be able to allow you to raise/lower the unit by 4-5", or to serve you for 2-3 projectors with different height requirements and throw distances.

If you change your projector, spend the $5 for new bolts! :)

Kal
post #32 of 40
Not to bump an old thread, but....

I'm getting to the later stages of my HT and am thinking about hanging the PJ (ECP 4000). My thought about the thread is:

can't I bolt the Unistrut onto the projector upside down and gain some ceiling clearance? In other words, I plan on running 2 pieces of unistrut to the ceiling perpedicular to the joists (spanning 3 joists). I would then mount 2 pieces of strut upside down on the bottom of the projector I'd use 4 pieces of 3/8" rod with strut hangers on each end to connect it all (of course I'd have nuts and washers so I could lock it all into place once I finally got it together.

Any reason this won't work???
post #33 of 40
Chip, the L brackets sound like a safe precaution in an older house with solid wood rafters or joists, but what about the new "fabricated joists" that are a thin flimsy layer of vertical wafer board sandwiched between a 1.5" top and bottom layer of resin bonded ply-wood. you certainly wouldn't want to go through the thin center, and the top and bottom aren't really thick enough for side drilling? As a matter of fact drilling on end dosen't sound too smart either, any ideas?
post #34 of 40
How about using bolts with T-nuts (or even better, conventional nuts and fender washers, if you can have someone hold the wrench for you up in the attic)? Drill through the end pieces midway between the center piece and the edge. I'd do one on each side of the waferboard to avoid overstressing one edge of the joist. If you need to run parallel to the joists you may prefer to hang a 2x4 from the joists using that method, then attach the unistrut to that.

An even more reliable solution might be to use very long bolts or threaded rod, and drill through the bottom and the top flange of the joists, using two sets of nuts to distribute the load between top and bottom. I've never worked with fabricated joists, but I'm guessing that they're designed to hold more weight from the top rather than the bottom.
post #35 of 40
Patrick, that sounds pretty similar to how I mounted my BG 808s. Check it out!

- Chris
post #36 of 40
I posted a bunch of pictures of my Unistrut setup in progress, for those who're interested. It shows things at each step along the way rather than just the finished product. Haven't hung the projector yet (though I've dangled myself from the Unistrut to load test it!) but I'll post pictures of that process as well.
post #37 of 40
Quote:
Originally posted by SteveGrimm
I posted a bunch of pictures of my Unistrut setup in progress, for those who're interested. It shows things at each step along the way rather than just the finished product. Haven't hung the projector yet (though I've dangled myself from the Unistrut to load test it!) but I'll post pictures of that process as well.
EXCELLENT PICTURES! I had decided to go the chain route, but have decided on the unistruts instead, so I could get added flexibility for just a couple of dollars more.
Your pics are the first I've seen that provide detailed close up to allow me to understand the best way to "erect" this set. :)
post #38 of 40
I am currently considering installation/mounting options for my G70. The Unistrut appears a possible option however my ceiling is raked with a 17.5 degree slope - has anyone got any suggestions as to whether this problem came be overcome using Unistrut while allowing a non perpendicular angle for the rods supporting a level projector (ie. the inside angle between the rod to the projector and the Unistrut is 72.5 degrees)? I hope this explanation of my problem is clear enough.

Stephen
post #39 of 40
I don't think a non perpendicular angle will work with the unistrut. However it should not be necessary.

Forgive the crudeness of the drawing.
LL
post #40 of 40
Thanks - a clear drawing detailing a solution I didn't think of (and although my rafters run down the slope of the ceiling rather than across as indicated the principle could still apply). I have thought that my other option could be to attach L brackets to the rafters, run threaded rod down (longer at front and shorter at back to account for the slope) from these brackets and attach the Unistrut across them to which to mount the projector.
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