AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration - Page 42

How does calibrating in 24p mode help calibration? Should the results not be exactly the same as if you run in 60p mode and then re-enable 24p mode?

What TV are you actually calibrating BTW?

C.

I believe color and grayscale should be no different, but there could be some differences in things like the resolution and sharpness patterns. As it stands, I don't see any issues with resolution at 1080P/60. Besides, I figure if I am watching in 1080P/24, I certainly want to calibrate at the same if at all possible.

I have a Sony 55A3000 (SXRD) and it does accept 24P natively and I believe at a 4X multiple even though it is 120 HZ capable.

^As long as the test pattern is a static image and not moving, I don't think frame rates matter with any devices.

i have to assume more and more people are going to become interested in "motion resolution". would it be possible some day to include a "motion resolution" monoscope test?

see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1014030

It's probably a test of the deinterlacer in the TV.

If the deinterlacer isn't doing the right thing you will lose vertical resolution so that would be an issue for TVs connected over HDMI that don't support 24p.

Hmmm. That still sounds like a test of motion or pixel adaptive de-interlacing.

Personally I'm not to worried about that kind of stuff anyway since I turn as much stuff off in the TV as possible.

Yea! -thanks. [I have a weird version of WinDVD BD made for Sony vaio computers so this may only apply to me, but thanks.]
----------------------------------------------------------------
I also cast my vote for the "moving monoscope pattern" that is mentioned in those articles above, if that's possible. I too understood it to be a way to analyze the resolution loss induced from a moving image, so a moving resolution chart as opposed to a static one is used. I think it can occur not only due to poor motion adaptive de-interlacing (MADI), but also because of the poor refresh rate of some technologies such as large LCD flat panels which still show image smearing when there is motion. The newer ones ones that combine 120Hz and additionally frame interpolation ("frame creation" as it is called on the Panasonic PTAE3000, for example) can correct for this if done properly, however they have their own drawbacks to contend with (artificial/CGI looking film reproduction, a slight video processing delay so lip synch may be lost/gamers might hate it, and too smooth motion at times, IMO).

seems like it would be useful to have two moving resolution patterns- one in 1080p to test blur inherent in the display and one in 1080i to test any additional issues due to deinterlacing.

and to bring an earlier discussion full circle, it is possible you will get different "motion resolution" scores depending on which *frame rate* you are using (even on the same display). for instance my panasonic pro plasma can display 24 fps material at either 48 Hz or 96 Hz . supposedly the 48 gets you better motion resolution (at the price of increased flicker - everything's a trade-off ;> ).

I cant seem to get this to work...

I got the iso and am trying to image burn it when it gets to 5% and says

Data Error "Cyclic redundancy check."

Anyone know what this means and anyway to fix it????

Any chance of hosting the files somewhere else? I have been trying to
download the files from sendspace and I am getting transfer speeds
of less than a byte per second....

Just to make sure that everything is ok on my end I tried downloading
the RC1-files from SpectraCal which went just fine...

/Ingvar

Thanks for another great disc. The color scales patterns are already proving very useful!! One feature request I'd like to make is to please consider adding another pattern just like it, except going from 80% to 100% in 1% increments. We are doing a ton of work in the RS20 calibration thread and it has clipping issues depending on how hard you work to correct the colors. 5% steps gives us an idea but is a bit too coarse so it would be great to see at exactly what % it begins to clip so we can make the necessary adjustments and tradeoffs.

Also is it my imagination or does the disc now change a bit faster going from the main menus to the patterns? I have to go back and forth a lot between the 75% color patterns and the 100% ones, so any future improvements that are possible to continue to speed up this switching would sure be fantastic. And best yet if at all possible it would be great if the output resolution (1080p/24) could be held the whole way from menus to patterns and back. The RS20 kicks you out of the menus if the resolution changes and all work gets lost - so when switching between 75% and 100% you have to save your work at a point where you really are not ready to commit it yet. Thanks again!

Great work on the disk.
I have only had a chance to use it on my own system but navigation speeds have greatly increased over the previous releases.
I appreciate the effort you have put forward in creating this for us.

Thanks again

That makes sense. I've settled on fixed iris for the last year and a half now, so using APL should make little difference for me. Still, if I ever figure out my i1/HCFR color reading problem, I would like to play around with the new patterns to see if I notice any differences. I have experimented with full fields vs windows in the past with no noticable difference in readings.

Ok I saved the file on a zip drive and took it to a friend and was able to burn it ...now I have another question.

Ok I am a noob at calibrating tv's even though I have read most of the stuff here ...(I read most of THIS thread and didnt know anything from pages 1-3) . Now I was wondering if I dont have anything BUT this disk....would I be able to calibrate my tv or just wasting my time?

Plus what would I need to calibrate my tv and is it free or do I have to order it and wait and wait??

There are levels to a calibration.

1. Better than nothing. Use the brightness/contrast patters to set those properly. All you need is the disc.

2. Beginner. Use a blue filter (available from THX for a small fee) to set colour and tint.

3. Advanced hobbyist. By an inexpensive colorimeter (Display LT or one of the Spyders) and use software to measure (ColorHCFR or Calman).

4. Pro level. Buy more advanced/multiple sensors.

Disclaimer: I have DVE HD Basics Blueray, Getgray, AVS 709, the one made by Tom Huffman (which is more for use with a meter) and I have seen Avia in action once. Of the disks out there, AVS 709 is undoubtedly the best when used WITH it's manual. Alot of MUST KNOW type info in the manual that makes the Basic settings on the disk all the more valuable. Job well done.

As for the use of this disk or any other for calibration?

You can really dial in Brightness really great with this disk.

You can confirm that you at least do NOT have whites clipped when adjusting Contrast (aka Picture).

You can get pretty bang on for SHARPNESS setting using a sharpness pattern from the disk.

You can use the 25 step greyscale pattern to at least know if you have fairly neutral greyscale from Dark to Light. Otherwise the grey bars will be pink or blue or green and none of those are very ideal to have. Hopefully it is only faint. But if it all looks simply grey than you are in business! But there will be little you can do about it without a meter and software and an understanding.

Color and Tint? Hahahaha. Don't get me started. But this has nothing to do with AVS 709. All the disks like this and DVE HD Blueray are great but the act of using filters is just not quite right for many sets.

You are almost better off doing color by eye than using filters on many displays. My PZ85 using a Blue filter to look through ends up at a setting that is just too high for the Color Control by 3 or more clicks. I was just as well off leaving it at factory or lowering it a few clicks until skin looked right in Bluerays. Cannot calibrate for TV channels though. Need a signal generator for that. That and most channels are dirty versions of originals anyway and calibration make little difference there due to channel to channel variance.

Joe Kane from DVE basically has good advice on his disk. Use the blue filter to dial the color control up. That's fine. Line up the tint. That's great too. Leave tint alone now and turn color control DOWN until skin looks right. This is because 90% of sets out there have what is called an oversaturated Red (red push). On purpose. So people might look just a touch rosy cheeked having dialed up color with the blue filter. You should then watch a movie you are familiar with and drop color a little at a time until YOU think skin looks right.

If you have an actual CMS (Color Managment System) in your TV and can actually deal with the primaries and secondaries individually? Well then get a probe like the i1 D2 and ColorHCFR ot CalMAN and you will still use this disk.

Constrast, Brightness and Sharpness are VERY important though so it is VERY good for that.

My 2 cents anyway.

C.

Ok thanks guys.

I have calibrated it before and I got the disk from HERE (Cant seem to find it anymore) but all it was was basic stuff (Bright,contrast,flag test and others) .

I just wanted to see if I was going to waste my time since I saw LOTS of options ., but I think I have a pretty good picture now and the HD-dvd movies I watch look really good (Cinderella man was looking good last night)

Down boy...

Bob.

alluringreality -- BTW - FYI, your MD5 error checking is actually called "Hashes" not "Hatches", AFIK. That is also what Ubuntu Linux calls them for error checking their OS downloads. Just a very minor semantical nit that I picked.

Thanks for all your efforts (and that of your collaborators). BTW, I wrote the GetGray Instructions (the GetGrayCalDiscReadMe), with editorial corrections from Scott, and lots of help from some of the same people who helped you. Getting everything for everybody is not a simple task.

BTW, I'm getting between 95 & 130 KB/sec (~106KB/sec, Avg.) download speed from SendSpace after 1:00 AM, PST, using my FireFox browser on Linux (DSL service).

wow, I've just found about V 1.2, a great disc made even better! thx!!!