AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration - Page 104

I understood that, but my Onkyo 608 was in at repairers and I was hoping to play the ISO directly through the Panasonic from my network. I am getting an Onkyo 609 replacement tomorrow, so I can connect my Med8er back into it and the system and play the ISO directly off my network through that.

ok so i was able to save this one a SD disc for my ps3, but i need to use the windows media center to run it through my 360 but it doenst even show up. help =(

you can download the mp4 version, extract to hard drive and copy the directory tree to USB thumb drive or leave on the hard drive. Some patterns are not on that version but the one you burn to dvd will only play in a BR player.

I use the USB in my BR player since it is easier to navigate than the DVD when using a meter and software.

HI,
I don't know much about white-balance but can you calibrate 10-points IRE white-balance using AVS HD709 disc without a meter? If yes then which patterns.
I've read manual many times but there're still alot of 'question marks' for me, especially white-balance calibration.

wow it pays to play with your TV.. I just found the setting on my Samsung LN40D550 It's under the RGB only mode.

Sweet stuff! My blues are so blown out it's not funny.

Ok odd I used this mode and adjusted the color up and down and the flashing part of the color bars never blend in at all.

How did you generate the Color Saturation patterns? I'm trying to come up with them myself but failing. For instance,

25% Magenta
Hue: 201
Sat: 34
Lum: 141

50% Magenta
Hue: 200
Sat: 81
Lum: 146

I'm guessing 201 vs 200 is a mistake? I come up with 200 as the correct value. I'm not sure how you got those numbers at all.

The part to adjust the color with the SMPTE color bars and it has the flashing boxes, from my understanding it should be adjusted in blue mode so you can't see the flashing boxes so they blend in.. Well in blue mode and adjusting the colors I can't get the flashing boxes to fully blend in.

If need be I can do a video of it.

It's not like you can't see where they are. It's that the lightness/darkness matches. Go higher and lower on your color setting and you can see where one box gets darker than the surrounding bar while the other box is getting lighter. Pick one extreme and work toward the "middle", and do the same from the opposite direction (high color going down; low color going up.) You usually get to a place where the sweet spot is one of two settings, and at that point you just have to pick ... A .... or .... B.

Never realized this much was involved in producing patterns.

Thanks for posting the link.

I just bought a samsung un55d8000 TV, and I would love to calibrate this TV to it true color.

My sources that connected to the Onkyo HTX-22HDX with built in HDMI switch are Xbox 360, HTPC, and a Samsung BD-D5500ZA player. And output of HDMI switch connect to the TV. So when I calibrate my HTPC in Movie mode of the TV, I'm guessing I have to calibrate my Xbox 360 as well, but am I still use the Movie mode, or other mode (standard, sport, dynamic)? And the same for my bluray player?
I know that I have to calibrate the TV with each different source, so if I use the Movie mode for all 3 sources, isn't I have to change the setting everytime I when I use different source?
Plus I have reading this thread for a while, and I try to calibrate my TV. But the problem that I have is when it come to calibrate the color and tint, I don't know what to do with it. I read the pdf manual, and it said I need to change the setting in blue mode so the flash box color (white & blue) should blend in with bar color. But do you guy know where is the blue mode in the UN55D8000 TV. Is it the RBG setting or other setting?

So I've finally made it all the way through that thread and the various excel worksheets referenced. The numbers posted there agree with what I calculated myself...but they don't agree at all with the digital values I'm reading off of the saturation patterns. Admittedly, I'm reading them off the computer, so it's possible it's doing something screwy with limited vs full range, but I'd appreciate a hand in figuring out what's going on.

For instance, 50% red sat has an RGB triplet of (203, 91, 92). I don't know why that doesn't agree with ANYTHING, whether you convert it to limited range or treat it as limited range already. I also don't know why the G and B are different. They definitely shouldn't be.

When I decode the 50% red saturation pattern, I get the PC level RGB triplet of 203, 92, 92. But that corresponds to 55% saturation at 80% brightness.

The 75% red saturation pattern is actually 71% saturation at 91% brightness.

The 25% red saturation pattern is actually 35% saturation at 67% brightness.

Is this what was intended, or is it some error?

Ron

BTW, to check things out with the saturation patterns, I downloaded the HDMV self-extracting file (HDMV-2d.exe) from the w6rz.net mirror. Unfortunately, it is corrupted. My apologies to anyone that wasted time downloading that file. Over the next day or two, I'll check all the files.

Also, since the AVS HS 709 files were generating more traffic than anything else on w6rz.net, I added direct links to the main page (back in July).

Ron

Gotcha, on both points. New question. In the thread you linked me to, you said you were trying to maintain constant Y. I assumed you meant constant Y with the color at 100%. Red's Y is at 0.213. With gamma of 2.22 applied, (190,95,95) is .209. I calculate (184,100,100) to have the proper brightness. Can you do the calculations and see if you get (190,95,95)?

I would love to see a sharpness pattern that was a little bit easier to see the changes. I remember when I had my projector calibrated the guy had a pattern that consisted of a single gray pixel on a lighter gray background, it was plain to see when the proper setting his hit.. one click either way and it was no longer a perfect gray pixel.

I would guess this would not work well on a flat panel since you can not zoom in to make it bigger but even some supper fine print and 1 pixel wide lines would be helpful. Seems like there is so much going on in most sharpness patterns it is hard to know what it should look like and shouldn't..

I have a hard time seeing sharpness changes as well and I'm 27 only when I max it out can I see the change but 90% and under I can't seem much change on my screen.

Sharpness settings seem to get little mention. The more I play around with sharpness, the more I learn. Just today ...

On my Samsung plasma there is a button on the remote called "Tools". With that button switching (and A/B testing!) of different Picture modes can be done. Basically immediate switching is what happens, just by hitting the up/down arrows.

Just today I was doing A/B comparison of Standard and Movie modes with all other settings equal (cell light, contrast, brightness, color, tint, WB, etc.) except for color temperature settings (I thought.) I was curious to see how sporting events looked with cooler color temperature settings and was using this A/B test to see how Standard mode/Cool compared to my calibrated Movie mode/Warm2. I noticed that my Movie/Warm2 image was blurred compared to Standard/Cool. They had different Sharpness settings.

The program had some relatively static background signs to read making the difference easily seen. It was also easy to see the difference in facial lines of the guy talking on the show.

The Sharpness setting for (the slightly blurred) Movie mode was 10 and for (significantly clearer) Standard it was 50 (the halfway point of the slider.) So I increased Sharpness in Movie mode 10 points at a time and little by little the image got clearer until when it got to 50 it matched clarity with Standard using the A/B testing.

I also set the color temp settings the same- testing both on Cool and both on Warm2. Color temp didn't matter for this sharpness issue, as expected.

The setting of 10 wasn't just a guess either. Or at least I didn't think it was. I had previously set the Sharpness to 10 by adjusting it while standing close to the TV and looking at a test pattern on the AVS Rec709 disc. There is a lighter ghost image adjacent to dark lines at higher sharpness settings, so I turned sharpness down until the ghost disappeared. This is how I set my Sharpness.

That was 3 months ago.

And I haven't given it a thought as I enjoyed my TV's picture. The best TV I've owned. (plasma: Samsung PN51D8000).

So, while I thought the picture was close to as good as it can get for all these months, and while I was looking at something else, I noticed how blurry the picture is with such a low Sharpness setting.

I don't know if 50 is the best setting, but I know for sure it isn't 10. It will take awhile to see what looks best for a sharpness setting, and I know that looking at test patterns up close to the TV doesn't get it right.

Look at something with fine detail at normal viewing distance and do A/B testing if your TV has the ability. Sharpness, I am finding out, has a much bigger impact on the picture than some of these little errors in grayscale or color calibration.

What Sharpness setting do you end up with if you do the same from your normal viewing position?

I prefer the Spears and Munsil sharpness pattern on my (plasma) display. I also check it right at the screen since I consider right to be right. I find it makes ringing obvious and I set sharpness one click below the point of ringing.

Last I heard D-Nice preferred the AVS HD709 pattern.