Originally Posted by alluringreality
Commercial calibration discs generally tend toward setting brightness as low as possible. Part of why I wanted the flashing near black was mainly to avoid setting brightness too low when I had the option of changing room lighting. If you're seeing dithering at 16 you could probably use the lower setting in a dim room, as long as you can still see 19 or 20 on APL Clipping flash from your seating position. Here is the relevant note from the manual discussing the second pattern:
"Turn black-level no lower than the setting where it is possible to see 19-28 flash. Try for just barely being able to see 19 flash in a typical viewing environment."
Hello, Doug Blackburn mentioned to me one way of setting the Black Clipping Pattern to get the correct black level is .Clip 16 , 17 barely visible, meaning, one click down and 17 disappears, one click up and 16 becomes visible or 17 becomes too obvious. If you can't make 17 barely visible set is not capable of showing this then he recommended one click lower still. I had to ask him what barely visible meant , the term is used often but where would this barely visible point land on in terms of remote ticks. So, 16 invisible, 17 barely visible. Sometimes you get where there is no pixel activity in the center of the bar but you still see an outline of the bar, this is a form of false outlining. meaning it appears like it is still there, you are looking for the pixel activity. It can be confusing i know.
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn
17 may or may not be visible. Some video processing will create a false outline that makes it appear 17 (and other steps) are more visible than they really are so you can't rely on the edges of the bar alone. If 17 is not visible, 18 should definitely be visible. 17 should be just BARELY visible. A lot of TVs may not have the exact right setting... you may find, for example, that the "0" setting is just a bit too dark and the +1 setting is a little too bright. Then you just have to pick one and deal with it.