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AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration - Page 112

post #3331 of 3881
Finally got imgburn to work, had to download the .7z version to make it happen though. Glanced at it last night. Will spend some time on it this weekend. Found the how to video that downloaded with it. Should be easy enough to follow. Thanks for the help! Jim.
post #3332 of 3881
A noob question.

Which colorimeter is best suited to be used with HCFR?

I plan to calibrate both my PJs and was looking for advice.
post #3333 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post

A noob question.

Which colorimeter is best suited to be used with HCFR?

I plan to calibrate both my PJs and was looking for advice.

You will want to give a little more detail. There is the super low cost i1 LT for around $150 and the prices go up from there for more accuracy, speed of sampling, etc.
post #3334 of 3881
Hi people!,
i love that forum, and i have readed a lot of posts from it but i can't see how configure my callibration correctly.

I'm on very cheap panel... SAMSUNG UE40C5100QW and i don't know waht values i must set to obtain a good ADC /WB.

I'll try to explain what i have done and, if anybody could help i would appreciate it:

1) I use a "custom made" 8x8 chessboard pattern made with FULL RGB color space (0-255) and saved to .bmp (to preserve color values). With a PS3 configured to Full RGB and my Samsung UE40C100QW to the same Black i've got "SUCCES" in my SM.

2) My ADC RESULTS was:
2nd_R_L 132
2nd_G_L 132
2nd_B_L 132
2nd_H_L 50
2nd_H_L 50
2nd_H_L 50

3) My WB values are:
Sub Brightness 128
R_Offset 512
G_Offset 512
B_Offset 512
Sub Contrast 128
R_Gain 512
G_Gain 512
B_Gain 512

When i configure my image in UM to "STANDARD" and "COOL" (Game Mode enabled because i use that panel for PS3 Gaming), i get good results but not the best possible...

Using Basic Callibration Disc from AVS i get the following image settings in my UM to obtain good results:

STANDARD:

Color: COOL

backlight 20
Contrast 95
bright 45
Color 32
Tint 49/51

All "enhacements" (Black tones, gamma, shadow... to off or -2 and -3)

and FULL RGB in PS3 and Normal in Samsung.



Could anyone help me to get the best possible?
post #3335 of 3881
Hello,

I am struggling with the pop-up menus in adobe encore:
I have created a psd file I want to use, and assigning a button function to a layer
but when selecting the menu as a pop-up everything not assigned disperses (I only want the background to disappear- not the popup menu background layer and some text layers.

Is there a way to lock layers so they don't disappear when selecting as a pop-up menu?
post #3336 of 3881
Thread Starter 
It's been a while, and my stuff is on another computer, including the Encore manual. Like I said before my regular menus only put the selection item in the button, and all my text and background is outside the button. I don't think that works on popups, so I probably put the popup background and text in the button. I'm almost sure my popups include the text and background in the button, because each of the popup selections that people see are individual lines that can be easily moved or deleted. Anyway, I think what I used for popups is how they describe things in the Encore manual.
post #3337 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

It's been a while, and my stuff is on another computer, including the Encore manual. Like I said before my regular menus only put the selection item in the button, and all my text and background is outside the button. I don't think that works on popups, so I probably put the popup background and text in the button. I'm almost sure my popups include the text and background in the button, because each of the popup selections that people see are individual lines that can be easily moved or deleted. Anyway, I think what I used for popups is how they describe things in the Encore manual.

Thank you, no on popup menus only buttons are displayed, I am just creating a test now where I have created the background as a popup and then manually changed the button routing so you can't navigate to the background button, I think this will work, but time will tell
post #3338 of 3881
I bought my refurb Epson 8700ub 1080p projector on April 27, figure I should test it before the 30 day return window slams shut June 2nd (got it May 3rd). I'd returned my Panasonic 220 a couple weeks ago so don't have a BD player, and reading the OP here I see I need a BD player to use the test disk. So, I just ordered a Sony S390 BD player.

My question is this: Will the DVD I just made burning AVCHD-2d.iso with imgburn be what I want to test and calibrate the projector when I get the Sony S390 BD player?
post #3339 of 3881
I have a Panny GT30,which patterns on the mp4 v. would help me calibrate the 2 point RGB low and hi color levels in custom mode.Thanks..
post #3340 of 3881
i just tried to download the AVCHD file, but i got this message "AVCHD-2d.7z This file is not yet uploaded. Try again later."

is this normal?
post #3341 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccll0 View Post

i just tried to download the AVCHD file, but i got this message "AVCHD-2d.7z This file is not yet uploaded. Try again later."

is this normal?

Same here.

After google searching for it: GET IT HERE
I honestly don't know why it can't be accessed trough the main post links though...
post #3342 of 3881
I tried to download the MP4 versions, but both said they weren't uploaded.
post #3343 of 3881
I just ordered one pair of THX blue filter glasses from the THX store,they are $4.95.

Are they pretty spot on getting the color and tint dialed in?
post #3344 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post

I just ordered one pair of THX blue filter glasses from the THX store,they are $4.95.

Are they pretty spot on getting the color and tint dialed in?

They will work, but didnt in my case. Color and tint were matched, but they threw the secondary colors way off. This is not the case for everyone and most people get good results from using them.
post #3345 of 3881
Thanks dunan...I have ocd with trying to get fleshtones down pact.lol
post #3346 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post

Thanks dunan...I have ocd with trying to get fleshtones down pact.lol

A good percentage in getting that correct is correcting white balance/greyscale and that would require some calibration software. Unless you have a tv that gets it correct right out of the box like the LG does where my ex works. Kills me, it looks better at factory presets than my tv does calibrated.
post #3347 of 3881
Hello I'm new here, I came to this forum through a link in another forum, and I just tried the calibration guide myself.

I have one question, I'm using a Panasonic plasma and I did the calibration with a laptop hooked up to the TV thru HDMI, then playing the MP4 files with VLC. When I put the TV in Cinema mode the calibration is actually spot on for the blacks, and with the whites I can actually see all the flashing bars. Because it says 230 to 234 or HIGHER should flash, I think that is alright, or am I wrong here? For the rest of the setting it seems very spot on straight out of the box.
post #3348 of 3881
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panzerknacker View Post

with the whites I can actually see all the flashing bars. Because it says 230 to 234 or HIGHER should flash, I think that is alright, or am I wrong here?

Ideally you would want to have all bars flashing. There is generally very little information above 235, so in some situations it makes sense to eliminate the levels above 235. Anyway, you are correct that all bars flashing is acceptable.
post #3349 of 3881
Hello, my question pertains to the black bars pattern. I have read the instructions but are there more specific ones where 17 should be just "barely visible" 16 invisible. Barely visible meaning one click down and 17 disappears or it looks like 16 ie black or you go one click up and 17 becomes obvious and quite visible. The instructions only say clip 16 and 17 still flashing nothing on the particulars of "barely visible". So which is it? can anyone help clarify this?
post #3350 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by hungro View Post

Hello, my question pertains to the black bars pattern. I have read the instructions but are there more specific ones where 17 should be just "barely visible" 16 invisible. Barely visible meaning one click down and 17 disappears or it looks like 16 ie black or you go one click up and 17 becomes obvious and quite visible. The instructions only say clip 16 and 17 still flashing nothing on the particulars of "barely visible". So which is it? can anyone help clarify this?

17 should be just visible against the background and 16 should be completely invisible. 18 should be obvious. One click higher and 17 is obvious (which is wrong) and one click lower and 17 is completely invisible (which is also wrong).
post #3351 of 3881
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hungro View Post

I have read the instructions but are there more specific ones where 17 should be just "barely visible" 16 invisible. Barely visible meaning one click down and 17 disappears or it looks like 16 ie black or you go one click up and 17 becomes obvious and quite visible.

Commercial discs like Avia or Digital Video Essentials have their first levels above black around 19 or 20, and they suggest that those levels should be almost indistinguishably lighter than black. The PDF instructions for the second pattern are intend to follow that sort of thinking, basically trying to define "barely visible". Here is a relevant quote about the APL Clipping pattern:

The 17 and 18 bars should not be clearly-noticeable, but you should be able to notice the bar marked 19 as it flashes. Turn black-level no lower than the setting where it is possible to see 19-28 flash. Try for just barely being able to see 19 flash in a typical viewing environment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

17 should be just visible against the background and 16 should be completely invisible. 18 should be obvious.

I know that the audio instructions from the HD Nation video support this position, but it's one of the few areas where I disagree with their comments. Display gamma would define the first few levels above black as being nearly indistinguishable from black, so ideally you would want your display to come out of black very gradually. Unfortunately some digital displays come out of black rather quickly and lack any sort of significant adjustment besides a brightness control. With a display that comes out of black too quickly you're usually left to choose between compromises like using a lot of light in the room or maybe clipping off a few levels above black. Generally 18 wouldn't be expected to be obvious when viewing an above-average display, with dim room lighting, from a typical distance.
post #3352 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post


I know that the audio instructions from the HD Nation video support this position, but it's one of the few areas where I disagree with their comments. Display gamma would define the first few levels above black as being nearly indistinguishable from black, so ideally you would want your display to come out of black very gradually. Unfortunately some digital displays come out of black rather quickly and lack any sort of significant adjustment besides a brightness control. With a display that comes out of black too quickly you're usually left to choose between compromises like using a lot of light in the room or maybe clipping off a few levels above black. Generally 18 wouldn't be expected to be obvious when viewing an above-average display, with dim room lighting, from a typical distance.

My comment about 18 being clearly visible is based on the TVs I've calibrated in the past: Panasonic TH-42PZ80U, Samsung LN32B650, two Samsung LN32D550's, LG 37LK450, and two LG 42LK450's. Aside from the B650, the rest are entry level 1080p models, so I wouldn't call them above average.
post #3353 of 3881
I've found looking at the APL clipping pattern from viewing distance with typical room lighting is a good method. Under those conditions I can barely detect the flashing 19 bar.
post #3354 of 3881
Unless you have a meter and are able to adjust your gamma, your only option is getting brightness adjusted at the low end.

Another way to check out what is happening at near black with this disc is to look at the Near Black part of the HCFR section. You can 'figure out' which pattern is 1% and adjust brightness until you can barely tell the difference between it and 0%. The first pattern is 0% and the second is 1%.

If 1% is visible, then black is not getting crushed, although it might be off some (too bright or too dark) but that's a gamma issue.

Also, if you are looking at the 0% window and you lower brightness there shouldn't be a darkening of the screen. If there is brightness may be too high and likely the 1% window will be too bright and too easily seen.

If your TV is a plasma there might be other issues with all of this.
post #3355 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Unless you have a meter and are able to adjust your gamma, your only option is getting brightness adjusted at the low end.
Another way to check out what is happening at near black with this disc is to look at the Near Black part of the HCFR section. You can 'figure out' which pattern is 1% and adjust brightness until you can barely tell the difference between it and 0%. The first pattern is 0% and the second is 1%.
If 1% is visible, then black is not getting crushed, although it might be off some (too bright or too dark) but that's a gamma issue.
Also, if you are looking at the 0% window and you lower brightness there shouldn't be a darkening of the screen. If there is brightness may be too high and likely the 1% window will be too bright and too easily seen.
If your TV is a plasma there might be other issues with all of this.

of course, you need a meter than can read black and near black accurately, which may be difficult on some sets with really low black levels... something like a D3 or C6 should suffice (at a minimum)
post #3356 of 3881
Are the AVCHD & mp4 files full hd, blu-ray? I ask, as I have burned them on to a regular dvd-r, and they play on my blu-ray player
post #3357 of 3881
Quote:
Originally Posted by sefmiller View Post

Are the AVCHD & mp4 files full hd, blu-ray? I ask, as I have burned them on to a regular dvd-r, and they play on my blu-ray player

They are full 1920x1080 hd, They are data file formats, although AVCHD is very similar to Blu-ray video. The DVD disc is just a delivery mechanism for the data files. You can put them on USB devices with the same effect.

-Bill
post #3358 of 3881
What is the difference from AVSHD 1.2b or 1.3 compared to the latest version? I downloaded version 1.3 from the website which offers a rent a kit for the I1 display pro and CalMan DIY.
post #3359 of 3881
Thread Starter 
The latest version was completely reauthored. During the reauthor there was an error found in with the v1.3 AVCHD authoring software, which may explain a report of measurements not matching exactly on a Panasonic player using the v1.3 AVCHD. If you are trying to use the CalMAN automation you would have to use whatever they support, but generally the recommendation is to use the last version. More release notes are at:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19413135#post19413135
post #3360 of 3881
Is there a mp4 or mkv with H.264 encoding of the HDMV version? I need this since the mp4 version in the first post doesn't contain all the patterns.
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