Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 41

So you're now saying you can indeed get screenburn.

Originally Posted by shantyman88

The question I have is how apparent is IR when simply watching some TV or whatnot? 5-10 minutes to go away would stink if it were readily seen. Some have said you don't notice it on a non white screen, but then how do you notice it in the first place then?

Originally Posted by Merc_2k

I was careful for the first 100 hours, keeping settings below 50%. When I hit 100 hours I started to play more games but tried to keep static displays in them to a minimum. Most times any IR I found was only noticeable on blank inputs and they would take anywhere from 5 to 60 minutes to disappear completely (usually used the break-in images on loop to do this since I don't have any cable tv at the moment).

I recently got Assassin's Creed on PS3 and after playing the game for two 1-2 hour sessions noticed that the health bar was visible not only on blank input but also over darker scenes in movies (like Batman Begins, Dark Knight etc) from my regular viewing distance.

I've been avoiding playing the game again until I clear this up, but after about 12 hours of trying different materials (running break-in images on SD card [which normally worked for removing HUD traces from playing GTAIV], scrolling white bar and just watching full screen content on blu-ray and DVD), the IR is still there.

Here's a pic to illustrate (top photo is unchanged, middle I altered levels in photoshop to make the outline easier to see and the bottom is a screen shot of the HUD from AC):http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y97/Merc_2k/ACIR.jpg
(The image above makes the IR seem lighter than it actually appears to me on my set)

I'm afraid to play after this sort of thing happened.

Is this sort of thing cumulative? If I were to continue to play games with static elements in them, without completely erasing any IR in between sessions, would it continue to build until it becomes visible over bright content as well?

Originally Posted by fatbottom

What console games have no HUD at all or HUD's which disappear for example after you've been injured.

Originally Posted by greenjp

Merc,
Please do keep us up to date on this. Reports like yours are just the opposite of what many of us have experienced with our own sets (I've done 5-6 hour sessions on consecutive days of various games on mine) without any problems, so whatever can be learned from your experience will benefit all of us.

Originally Posted by Egghaus

I just got a Samsung PN50A400 and am having concerns about IR. I have 22 hours on it so far, and I've used tsanga's settings which put the brightness and contrast at about 50%. I set pixel shift to 4/4/1 from the beginning. Like Merc_2k I've noticed that I can see IR after just having the settings menu on the screen for a few seconds, but it goes away quickly, is this normal?

Also, I was getting IR from the Cable/Channel display in the upper left hand corner on the screen, which only comes up when changing channels, I could actually see it while watching the TV. Now, I've watched over 2 hours of Full Screen content and it is still slightly visible on the all white screen. I know it will go away but this seems overly sensitive. Seems like an oversight by Samsung to not make the menus translucent, can it be changed?

I really like the TV, but if this is abnormal IR behaiviour then I will return it. I don't know what to believe here. Thanks

Originally Posted by 30XS955 User

Is it true that you should burn in the first 100 hours in intervals of 10 hours per day for the first ten days to allow the phosphors to properly cure and resettle?

Originally Posted by Merc_2k

After another 6-8 hours of fullscreen content (between Blu-ray, break in images and some Dead Space on PS3 [has no HUD]) I've managed to pretty much wipe out the IR from Assassin's Creed (there may be a little of the darker, horizontal bar left, but it's fairly difficult to spot now).

I decided to try a different game to see what would happen, so I gave Rock Band 2 a go for about half an hour. The IR of the fretboard and score meter were fairly distinct and, after about 4 hours of different content, the fretboard is still faintly visible like the Assassin's Creed IR was. I am currently running the break in images for a few more hours to try to remove it all.

I'm at about 175 hours on the set at this point, is this ever going to get better? I don't like the idea of having to spend these enormous amounts of time after gaming to clear away this stuff.

It seems like most people claim that they've never seen any IR on my model of TV, so what exactly am I doing wrong? I've got the pixel orbiter on force 1 (which, according to the manual, forces a pixel shift every minute). The settings I'm using are a little lower than most listed in the PX80 thread and I'm running it in Cinema, so it's not like I've got it in a torch mode or anything.

Originally Posted by Buckeye911

I don't think you're doing anything wrong. You will get IR on a plasma, those that say they've never had IR just haven't looked. I get IR all the time on both my Panasonic plasmas, more on my 42px60u than my 50pz800u. It isn't a problem though because I can only see it on a black screen with my face 18" from the screen. I have never been able to see it when viewing programming so I don't see it as a problem. I have the pixel orbiter on but never run the scrolling screen wipe feature, I just use my TV normally.

Originally Posted by Merc_2k

Does it take very long to get rid of the IR on your sets?

The part that concerns me the most about this is that a lot of posters (here and on other websites) say it takes quite a while to get any IR at all and, when they do get it, it is wiped away in a few short minutes of putting on a show or movie. It doesn't seem to take long at all for me to get IR and it takes hours rather than minutes to get rid of it.

Originally Posted by Merc_2k

Does it take very long to get rid of the IR on your sets?

The part that concerns me the most about this is that a lot of posters (here and on other websites) say it takes quite a while to get any IR at all and, when they do get it, it is wiped away in a few short minutes of putting on a show or movie. It doesn't seem to take long at all for me to get IR and it takes hours rather than minutes to get rid of it.

Originally Posted by jacobp

Hello and happy new year. I recently purchased a Pioneer Elite KURO 141 and Pioneer BP51 BluRay player. I also have an older Sony DVD player (non-bluray) in my home theater system. I am using the DVD breakin disc provided in this forum and I'm about half way through the breakin period for my screen.

Until now, I've been using my new bluray player to conduct the breakin. Is there any reason why I shouldn't be using the older Sony DVD player for this procedure and thereby reduce the number of hours on the new bluray unit??

Thanks.

Originally Posted by joebloggs13

I purchased the samsung Pn50a400 a month ago and have just cracked the 200 hr mark. I have been careful with it up until now, breaking the set in gradually as per schedule listed on this site, and I am happy with the results. In the beginning I would play xbox on it for no more than an hour at a time and only every three or four days. Mainly watched regular programing in full screen mode. After playing lego indiana jones for an hour or so there was a little ghosting in the top right hand corner that at first took a couple of hours to disappear. I would run the anti burnin functions on the tv, which are a great feature on the sammy, and watch regular programs. This would clear it up. I stopped gaming on the set for the last week or so after reading a few more posts about stubborn IR that some people were getting. Yesterday I decided that enough time had elapsed and played xbox for a couple of hours. I was really pleased that the ghosting took less than a half hour to completely disappear, and its getting less and less. I think that no matter what brand you buy, for every story of a samsung with stubborn IR, I have read another about a panasonic or a pioneer with the same problem, which leads me to believe that all sets are relatively equal in this respect. The technology has come a long way and will continue to improve. So for now I will enjoy my set, and looking to the future I am going to stick to plasma, because I think you cant beat them for picture quality, whether its for games, movies, tv, whatever! My two cents, for what its worth.