Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 47

Completely off-topic but CC recently went HD. Sadly the Daily Show will be SD until next year.

WHAT!!! Comcast SUCKS!!!

Mad comcast has my area by the balls we can only get them or dish and if you get dish they crank up your internet price.

Well related to Comcast hope they shower this same love on everyone
Economy is so bad that they are now paying people to see this
http://i.gizmodo.com/5144563/comcast...ith-5-discount

Hey..just copied the burn-in images to my thumb drive, for some reason my 6020FD does not want to see them in the same order I see on my PC. Does it matter if you run the slideshow with the color plates out of sequence?

Thanks,

Marc

Since this post of myn, I have noticed no change in the IR, possible burnin, and its now 7 days since I have viewed that channel. Is there a chance its burnin? Or anything I could do?

I raised the following question in another thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hp?t=1116157): I have a Kuro 5020 being delivered on Friday and I've been reading up on the break-in process in various threads on AVS. After leaning that the break-in dvd merely consists of colored screens, I had the same thought -- if a white screen displays all colors at once, why wouldn't a white screen accomplish this task in 1/3 of the time? If the answer is that the different color phosphors age at different rates, then I don't see how the break-in dvd solves this problem -- doesn't it contain the same number of red/green/blue screens? If so, then the break-in dvd is displaying each color an equal amount of time, same as showing a white screen. So why not use white screen for break-in? Anyone???

Another poster responded as follows:

Why don't you ask the engineers inside the manufacturers!!.. make sure you quote the name of the person too (asking permission)..

I went to the source many months ago at Pioneer and asked.. Josh Kairoff, Director of Display Engineering Group for Pioneer NA..

from: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=319

. . .

Since this is the master break-in thread, I thought this was an appropriate place to continue the discussion.

Since you're getting a 5020 and Turbe quoted someone at Pioneer who was paraphrased as saying

why do you think the discussion should be continued?

This is the "Master Burn-in/IR/Break-in" thread, right?? Why wouldn't a ligitimate question regarding the break-in process that thousands on this forum seem to be using be discussed here? As opposed to, say, discussing whether you get the Daily Show in HD?

But seriously, I had many reasons for wanting to continue the discussion here, not the least of which is that I figured it was only a matter of time before the other thread was locked, as it is now. Maybe I'm just the curious sort, but I find it interesting that countless posters (at least those who are determined to undergo a dedicated break-in process) simply fall into line with Evangelo2's Break-in DVD/Thumbdrive procedure and virtually no one questions the logic behind displaying a series of red/green/blue slides rather than a white screen.

I don't know whether the white screen approach is better, worse, or no different than Evangelo2's procedure. But I'm hoping that others on this forum with more experience and expertise will weigh in on the subject and provide some answers.

I was unduly terse. I wonder the same thing but it's clear that a multi-year disagreement is never going to be resolved since many of the parties are untroubled by logical inconsistencies. I suspect that most of the more experienced members choose to ignore this topic since they've said whatever they had to say long ago.

I'd not say no one questions there are those of us who do not perform the break in. I am not doing any break in other than watching it normally on my 111fd. I see no logic in wasting 150 hours of my plasma's life and electricity for nothing. I say nothing because nobody here can prove that it makes a difference.

But I am still on this thread because I want to learn more. There are a lot of knowledgeable folks here and I am learning about my new TV. So far I have not read anything that would make me believe that the burn in process makes a difference worth the wastage of electricity etc.

I have a minor IR experience to report, last night I was getting pretty tired but wasn't quite ready to head up to bead so I put Waiting on. I woke up and it was on the menu screen. Based on when I started it I figure it was probably stuck like that for about 2 1/2 hours or so.

I jumped up and turned it off and could easily see IR of the menu buttons and a few other things, My stomach was twisted now because I just got this damn TV and probably have about 150-200 hours on it. I ran the white scroll bar for 15min and it made a very small difference. I ran the slideshow of my break-in images and when to bed.

This morning I came downstairs at about 6:30 turned off the slideshow, left the lights in the house off and I could still see some very faint IR, again of the menu buttons. I ran the scrolling bar again, put on sunrise earth for a bit and then went back to the break-in images. I left the house at 8am and before turned on Veggie Tales for my little girl I went to a blank input. I could not see a thing! There were a couple lights on so my guess is that there may have still been a very very small trace of it left but it is obviously going away and I expect by the time I get home it will be totally absent.

The point of my story is that I am new to Plasma and based on my experience with my 58PZ850 IR is an issues but time seems to be healing all wounds. I expect that as I get more hors on the set it will become more resilient against IR but in the mean time my simple advice is add a couple habits to the ones you already have and your TV will remain perfect. Use the repeat function on your BD player and use your sleep timer on your TV. IR is there but it is fixable and avoidable.

Please help!! I have a new Samsung PN A650 coming soon. I already have the breakin DVD. I know this has probably been asked a thousand times but I am new to this forum and to plasma TV's. What brightness setttings would be best used running this with a standard DVD player? Any other info on this model would be greatly appreciated

So after reading numerous posts throughout these forums I think I finally figured out how to break it in correctly.

I have the panny PZ4280U.

Settings atm:
Picture Mode Cinema
Picture 50
Brightness 50
Color 45
Tint 0
Sharpness 50
Color Temp Warm
Color MGMT Off
X.V. Color Grayed out
Zoom Adjust Grayed out

Advanced
Video NR Off
3D Y/C filter Off
Color Matrix SD
Mpeg NR Off
Black Level Light
HD Size 1

I have Evangelo's SD card images running.
30 second intervals
repeat on

Is there suppose to be a flicker between slides?

This all look correct? I plan to run it for 4 days straight and increase the brightness and picture by 2 every 24 hours, just to be safe.

I did have a follow up question.

How often should I stay on a station or in a game after I start using it normally?

Anyone just let me know if "yes they are ok" or "no change this"?

1. yes they're okay
2. I don't know the answer regarding flicker on the side. I don't think it's normal.
3. If you're in Cinema mode, I've played game for several hours and/or watch a single station for several hours with no problem.

disclaimer: I've tested item 1 and 3 on a Panasonic 800u, Pioneer PRO-1150 and PRO-111. As mentioned, I have no clue about item 2.

I meant between the slides not the sides. And I think it is just the way it transitions, it looks like a flicker but isn't.

As far as my settings, they seem ok. I was assuming they are ok just got paranoid since it will be on for 100+hours.

And cinema mode seems best I think.

Just joined

I just wrote this long message and tried to post it. It didn't post, even though the site claimed that it did. So I'm just sending this to see if it works before I try again

Okay, I guess I'm good to go now.

Let's see if I can remember everything I wrote the first time. I'm a first time flat screen owner. I bought a 50 inch series 4 400 Samsung plasma (PN42A400)one week ago. I was going to get an LCD but circumstances and a super deal intervened. I know nothing about any of this. Everything I know about plasmas I have read on this forum in the last week. I changed all my settings for the break-in period as advised here (lowered brightness and contrast and all that) and have been adjusting my picture size to zoom1 whenever I watch something with the black bars on the top and the bottom. I don't have HDTV and am not obsessive about having the absolute best picture.

Anyway, my computer genius friend came over yesterday. He took one look at my new TV and said he could give me better picture and sound. We went to the store and got an HDMi cable (might have the name wrong). He then hooked it up and now I do indeed have much better sound and picture. I simply watch it from a different source. However, my picture sizes changed too. Now my biggest screen size is only full fit (or something fit). About 40% of the shows I watch have the black bars on the top and the bottom unless I go to zoom to get rid of them. Now, I don't have that. I called my friend this morning and he had me re-hook the other cable so now I can switch back and forth from the new way to the way it was, but here are my two questions:

Is there anything else I can do to fill the whole screen with the HDmi cable hook-up, rather than switching back and forth all the time?

Do I really need to worry about the black bars all that much? Am I okay just watching everything in the Hdmi setting? I've read quite a bit that says you should avoid those top and bottom black bars, particularly during the first 100 hours, but do I really need to be this paranoid? Obviously I wish to avoid retention and burn-out.

Any advice would be appreciated. As I stated, though, I barely know anything about all this, so I hope nobody gets super technical.

1. some TVs wide modes can't be accessed once you use HDMI connection.
2. I don't know much about Samsung plasma (only tested it for review for several weeks) but if you use cinema/movie mode, you shouldn't be worried about blackbars at all. I watch 2.35:1 and 4:3 in their native aspect (black bars at the top/bottom or on the sides) and I've never experienced IR let alone burn-in. With Samsung you may experience IR but most probably no burn-in at all.

hope it helps.

if you have any further question, just PM me.

Dangfish: Welcome aboard! To eliminate the "aw $hit!" factor when posting, type your post in some sort of text editor (Microsoft's Notepad or something similar) FIRST, and then when you are ready to post, copy & paste it into the forum message reply window. That way, if it doesn't actually upload and post for some reason, you don't need to type your message again...you can simply paste it again...

/hijack

I switched it to movie mode last week a couple days after I bought the TV. I just checked it again and it was no longer in movie mode. Not quite sure how it got changed. Perhaps when my friend hooked up the HDMI connection.

So, if I stay in movie mode I don't need to worry so much about the black bars causing bad retention or burn-in? I was prepared to switch out of HDMI mode when I watched one of my 'black bar' shows, but after comparing the two pictures and seeing how much brighter and nicer the HDMI connection is (not to mention the much better sound) I'd really rather not if I can help it.

You can also just copy it from the forum message reply window before you post, that's what I do if I am writing a lengthy post.

Well, I've got letterbox burn in on my 2006 Panasonic. It's not devastating, but it's not a happy thing either. Although I have operated under the assumption that burn in on modern plasmas is a small very small threat, I've always taken excellent care of my plasma and followed appropriate guidelines found on AVS. Sad. (No, it is no IR.)

Anyway, I'm pretty sure there is a "reverse" letter box DVD floating around this thread or elsewhere in these parts, but I'm having trouble locating it now that I'm in need. Can someone please point me to it?

Edit: OK, I now see the recommendation in Post #2 of the original "Burin-In" thread is to set the PDP to display gray/white bars and turn off the source device (i.e. cable box). I'm doing that, is there any reason a specialized DVD would offer me a more effective solution.

Huh?


WHAT IS "BURN-IN"

Typically, "burn-in" is defined as an uneven wear of a phosphor based display unit (Plasma and CRT for example). It is the phenomena of being able to "see" the remnants of something that was being "displayed" even though you are watching totally different content. It is not image retention which goes away.

I have uneven wear on the sides of my screen -- where the sidebars are displayed for 4:3 viewing -- which results in visible darkening. That's not burn in?

What you're describing doesn't sound quite right. This is probably because you're not fully describing what has happened but it could be something else.

First: letterbox is bars at the top and bottom of a (unsually) 2.35 movie. Boxing on the sides is called pillarbox. Pillarboxing is often darker than the image (or even black) but it can brighter-- current Panasonic plasmas have a variety of pillarbox brightness settings. If the pillarbox is brighter than the average picture level (APL) of the 4:3 area then the pillar area will age more and be dimmer. If the pillarbox is darker than the 4:3 area then it will age less and be brighter when a gray field is displayed.

If you're saying that sides of your screen are dimmer because of 4:3 pillarbox using black pillars then it's odd.

Ah, I see part of the confusion is that I inadvertently wrote letter box instead of pillar/side bars. To be clear, the problem is in the pillar bar areas.

You should be using grey or light sidebars during 4:3 viewing. Or stretch it to fill the screen.