Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 48

Is there a way to turn my letterbox black bars into gray bars on my Samsung plasma? And I'll repeat my earlier question to anyone that knows something about Samsung plasmas: Do I not have to worry about letterbox black bar burn-in if I watch HDMI connection in movie/cinema mode?

word on the net is that i could find some help or an opinion here. i recently had to have the panel replaced on my samsung 4264 after a row of pixels burnt out on the original panel.

basically i forgot about having to break in the screen before going at it seriously and ended up with a residual image from an icon in call of duty 4. i ran the screen burn protector for 3+ hours immediately after i finished playing. it has been fading but i can still definitely see it.

i was hoping that i could get some advice on how to get rid of the image. will the break in DVD take care of it or does it just need time to completely fade through regular use?

thanks!

I would just play some full screen content overnight and i think that'll do it. I have a panny plasma, and i started with the break-in cd, but half way through i aborted mission and just left the TV on full screen content for about 15 hours a day with low picture, brightness etc. I would turn it on when i was sleeping or not home, and turn it off once in a while to give it a rest. I've got no Ir or burn in at all.

i've been running the screen burn protector in the morning and when i go to bed for a couple hours at a time.

when i got the new panel i totally forgot about the break in period and continued using it like it was a year old. i think that it should be fine (hopefully). thanks singh!

Alright, so I received my th-42pz80u this this past friday. I've been "breaking in" with some normal tv viewing since I got it. Right now it's on Cinema mode in zoom with all of the settings right around 50-60. I've seen recommendations to use both high and low settings. High settings supposedly will help the phosphors age faster and more accurately and the low ones will take longer? I'm a bit confused as far as this goes. Also, should I do absolutely no gaming during this period or would a game or two of Madden 09 be alright until I'm fully broken in. Any feedback would be appreciated.

My quick thoughts on 150 hour burn in. We ordered the 111 before we even had a stand to put it on. So, the burn in is not taking away from viewing as I have no where to put this yet. Also, wouldnt it make sense to put this set to the test during the first 30 days, when you can still return it?

-David

I need some calibration help...

I am totally lost on how to do it. Are these the right basic steps.

1. Download the program

2. Get the right cable

....And from there ha I am lost....

Is there an easy FAQ or user quide to calibration?

Here are a couple of resources. The first is in the calibration forum which may be a better source of answers than the plasma forum.
Basic guide to CMS
Grayscale for Dummies

so i got my parents to buy a 42 700u model in jan 2007. It gets about 3 - 4 hours of use a night. From jan 2007 - jan 2008, it was used to watch only 4:3 content. Some times it would stay on all night for 10+ hours in the 4:3 mode. When I hooked up the HDTV receiver last month, I knew there were going to be bars that stood out clear as day in 16:9.

When the first dark scene came on, there they were, pretty darn clear. The tv is now used to watch HD content about half the time. After a month of this, the bars are barely visible in pure black screens, and I suspect will be gone in a short amount of time. I actually just quickly looked for it during a dark scene and I was not able to find them. I think it's just on pure black background scenes that they are barely visible now.

this tv was never broken in either

Thanks... I'll digest all I can. I really just plan on using d-nice's settings but need to figure out HOW to get them set up.

I would be careful with Madden, because of the score bar. It uses that bright white line, along with the EA logo, and it's on the screen almost continually except during the replays. My older Panny plasma still gets ghosting for a bit after I play even though the set's long been broken in.

I wouldn't stress too much about gaming during the break in if the game you're playing doesn't have a lot of static images or uses a lot of cut scenes. But Madden's particularly bad because the static image is very bright and on nearly all the time.

Honestly, a game of Madden here or there is probably okay, but I'd just advise a little caution. I played Madden 06 on my XBox when I broke my TV in and didn't have problems, but the score bar was not quite as bad as it is now.

I have a pz 80 with about 75 hrs on it. Is it ok to watch a dvd movie that displays black bars on top and bottom. I have tried stretching it but can't get rid of them.

^ Yes granville, it's fine. I started with black bars on my pz800u at around 50 hours, you'll get a little IR but it goes away fairly quickly.

I searched this thread and didn't see this particular point mentioned--my apologies if it has already.

If you decide to extract the break-in images directly to a thumb drive, be sure to double check them before using.

After I had started yesterday, I watched the first few slides and thought everything looked good, but discovered today after 36 hours, one of the red slides was corrupted and the image wasn't all there.

It's no big deal--just reformated the USB drive and extracted to it again; Image files are fine now. However, I'm glad I discovered this before going through all 150 hours. (Not that it probably would have mattered in the long run, but if I'm going to bother breaking-in the thing, may as well do it as per recommendations )

On Samsung plasma TVs they have the facility to reduce burn by re-aliugning the pixels, I do not use plasmas I rather prefer LCD displays.

I am going to be picking up a plasma. It's a sammy 510z I plan on doing extreme gamig sometimes 10 hours straight. Should I reconsider to a LCD?

If I run the 100 hours burn in does it have to be straight or can I turn the tv off and restart again another time

I love my Plasma, and I have never seen IR on my Pioneer, but if you play games for 10 hours at a time, often, I would personally get an LCD. Plasma's really are designed for video, not continuous gaming.

I play Rock Band for several hours at a time on occasion with no effects, but 10 hours a day I personally think is over the limit for Plasma.

Re. burn-in time, it does not have to be continuous.

hello


I am running the USB burn in files with the "slide show" thru the usb port instead of the burn in DVD....

the color screens have about 12 secs of time between color pics.....is this enough?

I think the DVD runs 30 secs between screen changes...just want to be sure.


AND, what is IR? is that "image retention"?

Like when the screen has "faint ghost images" from a DVD menu screen or something?


I have that ever so slightly....will the "burn in" remove that?


thanks!

allen


samsung pn58a650

Good question. I just started the break in process today and I am am having the slides change every 30 secs. Is that good?

Responses are within the quote in bold italics. Enjoy your plasma.

buckey911,

thanks!

allen

i made the break svcd but its running like a damn strobe light

the colors are changing really fast, i thought they were supposed to change every 30 seconds?

I have a vizio Vp322 Plasma, and am having some minor IR issues. During the first 100 hours (I think I'm almost there or just passed the mark) I watched all kinds of 4:3 and 2.35:1 content. Usually this IR is pretty easy to get rid of using the TV's image cleaner, but there is some nasty IR I simply cannot get rid of from the Playstations 3's XMB. I have very faint columns across the TV where the menu options lay when using the PS3, and there are darker gaps in between them. Is there anyway to get rid of this and keep it from happening again?

**EDIT**
Almost forgot, is there a way to do Grey bars on the Ps3 or a Verizon HD cable box for 4:3 and 2.35:1 content? The vizio does'nt have an option for it at all.

just a quick question.....i have read that when breaking a set in whether using a disc or pictures or whatever, you should turn the contrast down, my question is, if you are trying to wear the phosphors in, then why wouldnt you want to break in the set on max settings because wouldnt it be quicker??? thanks

I have a Panasonic 46PZ80U, and I have a few questions about IR/BI. The TV has been broken in, I'd say it has more than 160 hours of use. During the first 100 hours I had it play full screen (Zoom mode for black bars) standard def TV, and some blu-ray movies. I started playing video games at around the 70 hour mark, but I never had the settings above 50 during this time. Apart from the green phosphor trails (I can only see them if I look for them though) the set is great.

Now, on to my questions.

1) I noticed one day that if I leave the TV menu on for about 10 seconds, I can still see it after I close it. Why does this happen after such a short period of time? In one of my games, I see the SEGA logo pop up for about 4 seconds, and if I look closely at the screen, I can see the image. I only see these when I'm quite close to the screen and all the lights are off, so it's no problem at all. I just want an answer .

2) Like the above scenario, but if I leave an image on for around a minute, I can easily see it from anywhere in the room, even with some lights on. A good example is when I pick a game on my PS3. When you select a game to play, it usually shows a splash screen before you run the game, in this case it's the Killzone 2 demo. I left the splash screen on for around a minute (I like the music :P) while I got my movie. After I put the movie in and it went to a black screen, I could easily see the Killzone 2 logo from my couch, which is about 6 feet away. I thought the break in would stop these kind of IR issues, so why does it still come up after leaving a logo on for such a short time?

3) What does the pixel orbiter do? I assume it moves the pixels around a bit, but exactly how does it do this? And what about the settings for it? I can set it to Force 1, 2, 3, 4, or automatic. Does force mean it sets it to move the pixel every second, minute or hour? And how does automatic differ from Force?

Thanks .

This has been discussed. At length. I think all the current talk of break-in is derived from the D-Nice Kuro process and blindly applied to every other plasma which often leads to questions about whether or not the process is rational.

Barrikus,
The situation you're describing, being able to see menus and whatnot when you switch to a completely blank screen, is very normal and nothing to worry about. Lots of posts on it, unfortunately there's no good searchable term for it
It has nothing to do with the mechanism that would cause troublesome IR or burn in. There is some sort of residual charge or phosphorescence that you notice when the screen goes blank, but it's not uneven wear.

jeff

For those of you who have recently downloaded evangelo2's break-in images... have you noticed that Slide8 and Slide9 look identical?

I can see the difference in color in every slide except for these two. I plan to use evangelo2's images on a thumb drive to break in my PRO-111FD once it arrives. I wonder if it is just my computer monitor, or if there really is no difference in color or brightness between these two slides.

Have any of you noticed this, or am I the only one

Thanks!

i set the break in images to 30 seconds each on my thumb drive. I think thats the best setting

you know whats crazy, I read all 48pages. ...I feel sick.