Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 56

So you've been gaming for up to 3 hrs at a time while your brand new TV has less than 100 hours on it? That's not a very good idea.

I'd stop gaming for a while and mix up the content you're watching. Plasmas go through the highest drop off in brightness when brand new. This is when the TV is most susceptible to burn-in (actually uneven phosphor wear). After say about 200-500 hours, your TV would be much less likely to sustain burn-in.

I'd try to get rid of the HUD outline by running a break-in DVD or something similar for a couple of days.

Yikes, this thread has me a little concerned.

I have a Panasonic TC-P42G10 and the break-in file on SD. I assume that all I need to do is be sure that the settings are less than 50 and run the SD card for a 100 hours to break in the set. Is it that simple?

well its gone now, but by now i have over 100 hours on the tv, how many more should i put on it before i use it like i want to

This is an excellent question and one I am interested in hearing. My newly acquired Pioneer Pro-111FD is at 66 hours of break-in, and though D-Nice recommends 150 hours, I'm interested on what the general consensus is here.

Most would say 200 - 300 hours before any heavy gaming. I was much more cautious, but when I buy my next plasma I will start using it for gaming then.

As for the IR outlines taking a long time to clear off the plasma, I wouldn't be too concerned unless you can actually see the HUD when watching something other than a blank input. On my Panasonic 800U I can get IR that takes 10 - 12 hours to clear by watching normal programming, but the key is that it always clears and is not visible except on the blank input.

I used to be very paranoid about any IR on my 800U (read some of my early posts from last year to see just how paranoid I was), but I no longer worry about it and will usually play one game for 2 or 3 hours stretches (often Rock Band or Guitar Hero). I always have IR of the HUDs on a blank screen when I'm done playing, but I've never seen them when I'm watching a movie or playing another game. I should note that I do run the scrolling bar wipe once (so about 15 minutes) when I'm done watching my plasma for the day if I've played a single game for a long period at a time. By following these simple guidelines, the IR I had of the HUDs on the blank input is gone the next time I'm ready to play that same game (usually in a day or two).

Just mix up your viewing, keep the picture settings out of torch mode, and set the pixel orbiter to force 1 (or equivalent) and you shouldn't have any problems. Enjoy your plasma!

this might be a stupid question but is it ok to use Evangelo2's burn-in DVD on a 1080 set even though the dvd is in 720?

so all i have to do is loop it for 200hrs?

I've got an LG 60PS11, any settings I should use?? thanks!

Just make sure the slides are filling the screen.

I ran the SD for about 50 hours using the settings from D-nice. It really is very simple. Download and save the SD images, put the SD card in the TV, set the picture and run the images. I have another 20 hours of so of TV / DVD viewing (Full screen) and will soon have the 100 -150 hours of break in time. Very pleased so far.

Posted this in the PNxB650 thread and wanted to post here too:

Hey everyone! Just got a new PN650 and have a question regarding the break in period for the tv. I had a PNA550 (which was exchanged for this year's model due to pink banding) and broke it in by simply watching full screen movies/tv shows and playing video games without any static images (uncharted, deadspace, etc.). Is there any advantage to using a break in dvd or does watching full screen programing serve the same purpose? Is it really necessary to the turn the contrast so low (~50) if absolutely no static images are on the screen? I thought I had my contrast around 70 or higher when breaking in my older model, but don't really remember. I wanted to do the same with this model but am feeling somewhat paranoid, although I haven't had any bad expericences with burn in or image retention. Is the break in period an effort to simply avoid burn in during the first one hundred hours, when it's most common, or does it serve an additional purpose such as properly aging the set?
Basically, will I harm this set in any way by watching movies/tv and playing games without static images at a contrast around 70 during the first 100 to 250 hours, and is there any benefit of using dvd break in disc compared to the previous method? Thanks for the help!

I hope this was a joke?

I think I might have a burn issue, either developing or already set...

I got my Samsung PN50A550 last January. I did everything by the book, set the contrast to 40 for the first 100 hours, varied my programming, avoided long gaming sessions. After about 200 hours I started to game more regularly on the panel and upped the settings to have it look good (contrast around 75, DC off). Now that Im just over 1000 hours and according to the game clock, have logged roughly 160 hours of Soul Calibur IV, Im starting to notice persistent image echo of the HP bar frame at the top. (not that the 160 gameplay hours were mixed in with about 800 hours of TV and movies and maybe 100 hours of other games)

I stopped playing all together and ran the image burn tools and got rid of the problem. However, it seems to return more frequently with even less game time spent. I have since made a low burn mode for gameplay, lowering cell light to 2, contrast to 40. It looks bad, but it only seems to help a little. After a two hour session, there is still some IR that can last for days of normal TV viewing.

I don't think the damage is permanent (yet), but I think Ive built up enough cumulative damage that this particular game can no longer be played. Problem is, Im a picky ass gamer and SCIV is all I still play these days. So I wonder, is there any way to reverse this? Could I make a negative image of the static parts of the game display and then reverse-burn the TV?

Game developers need to make multiple skins for HUDs so we plasma gamers can mix things up.

To those concerned about the IR problem I have found that the fastest solution (on my Panasonic X1) is to simply insert the SD card with the break in slides and let it run for a few minutes. Clears it right away.

John

What size SD card do I need to use to copy Evangelo2's burn-in?

EDIT: OK, I found a SD card and transferred the 20 images onto it; so, I guess I don't need to know what size card. Actually, it was 32M card. Anyway, I'll be using the card in a Panny 50v10 and I'm assuming that all I have to do is stick the card in its slot and have it play repetively...or is there something special I should ahve to do?

Had my mind set on buying the panny TX-P42V10 for the excellent reviews, and even have it on order, no payment yet. But after all this talk and this page:
http://plasmasaver.com/burnin.html I'm having last-minute buyer anxiety

The reason is, it dawned on me that all the stuff I'll do on it either isn't full screen or is static
*Almost all HD movies I have are 2.35:1
*Have some anime that's mostly 4:3
*TV is most of the time still 4:3, and I don't like stretched look.
*I want to do some PC gaming on it, but leaving it on the desktop is a bad idea, while games like GRID have static huds

"Burn-In: NOT the same as IR. Permanent. Increasingly harder to produce as Plasma technology improves. Not really a concern unless you really abuse the set." --> sounds like my usage scenario falls under "abuse".

And running a set of images every time you use it sounds like a real chore, also since I'm at least a bit conscious about the environment. I could live with a break-in period, but not doing this for the entire time I own the screen. Posts like the one from DeathCom don't inspire much confidence in that regard.

Am I the wrong kind of user to go for plasma?

I'm starting to agree with you. I'm on hour 25 of breaking in my TV and while it's not too horrible I think it's ridiculous that I'm going to have to "monitor" what I watch in the future. I'm thinking I made a huge purchase mistake. I'd rather live with a little bit of judder and poor off angle viewing (LCD) rather than policing my TV time with the plasma.

I make a post like this every couple of months just to add some perspective to all the worrying:

I bought my Panasonic 50PX77U in January 2008. It's a 2007 model. I broke it in by setting the contrast at 50% for the first week and a half or so, setting sidebars to gray on both the set and my DirecTV box, and zooming the couple movies we watched to get rid of the letter bars. Never did the slide show, though I did a few times let it run for several hours on HD Theater. I played Call of Duty 4 the first day I had it, couldn't resist.

After that week and a half I turned the contrast up, found settings I liked (starting with the CNet review settings) and have left it that way since. My usage is probably 40% Xbox 360, 50% TV (lots of sports, a few series), and 10% movies. This set has no special anti-burn in features - no scrolling bar, no pixel orbiter, nothing like that.

It has no burn in or anything else worth worrying about. The screen uniformity is perfect (go read the Samsung edge lit LED thread for some horror stories on that). I do not worry or obsess about how I use the TV - I just use it. Yes sometimes after a long gaming session I'll have a little IR from a HUD or something. But it always goes away very quickly upon switching to another game/show.

So for the minimal precautions I take (gray side bars, setting the auto-off timer, 1.5 weeks of "break in") I've been able to enjoy a larger, less expensive TV with superior picture quality to an LCD. Fair trade in my book

jeff

Hi all,

Finally taking the plunge and getting a Pio 151 delivered Tuesday (I've been on a Sony 40XBR800 CRT for years - still love it).

I was wondering, re D-Nice's burn in images, does that have to be 150 hours without a break? I'm nervous leaving it going at night, or when I'm out for long hours, etc. in case there's some kind of freeze up. I'd imagine that could actually cause damage.

Any thoughts?

Also, I can see reading through here that the whole idea of break in is still controversial. There's no way I'll have time to read this whole thread (and the Kuro thread!) before Tuesday. Is there any sort of consensus re break in? 50-50 for doing the images? 80-20 one way or the other?

Thanks for any advice for an excited but nervous new owner.

Well, you figured out that your uses are a less than ideal match for plasma technology. You are obviously worried about the issue. The question is whether you will continue to fret about this after you get your set, and ruin the enjoyment the set is supposed to provide.

Having said that, Panasonic is a pretty good plasma choice, if your concern is IR, burn-in.

I ran the 150 hours break-in procedure straight on my Pro-111FD. I advise using a USB flashdrive for this purpose. The only reason there'd be failure during this would be the TV and not, say, a DVD player (extra variable).

As for the break-in procedure, I was able to supress my impatience and run 100% of the break-in slides for the first 150 hours. My take on this is, if you spend that kind of money on a new TV, you may as well do everything right in terms of its performance.

I am very new to the plasma world since I just purchased my first flat panel on sunday. I got the panny tc-p42u1 and have been very pleased with it. I started running the break in slides from an sd card this morning while I am at work. Right now I still have the contrast and brightness level set to 40. Should I change the setting to vivid while the break in images are running? Also, can anyone point me to some good calibration settings once the 150 hour mark is reached.

I thought I would post my experiences here as well. I am a proud owner of the 'dreaded' 400 series plasmas from samsung(pn50a400) since last December. I performed a longer breakin period(I think aroud 300hrs), in which I didn't game for long periods etc... Now I dont even think about it. I dont even know if I get any IR after gaming sessions because I dont check for it anymore. I certainly cant see any watching regular programing after playing, and I honestly cant be bothered to put the scrolling function on and stand 5 inches away to check for IR. It's just a great set, no two ways about it, and I love it!! JoeB

I have had the Panny P50V10 for approx 3 weeks ( I would guess 120 TV hours) and did not perfom any type of break in, I have watched SD television, HD television (mostly sports and movies) and BD movies but absolutley no gaming. I have notice no burn in or image retention what so ever. Should I continue to operate the TV normally or so should I start some type of break in period?

Thanks in advance.

I am using D-Nice's break in DVD disk on my new PDP 151FD. Why do you recommend the flash drive over the DVD? Can you down load D-Nice's program onto a flash drive? If not, where could I go to find such a program?

I recommend the flash drive, as you're not introducing a variable with moving parts (the DVD player). With the flash drive I only had to worry about whether or not the TV messed up during these 150 hours. Whereas with the DVD, I would have had to worry about the TV and the DVD player messing up.

As for the flash drive files, they are located here. Just download the ZIP file and unzip the images to your flash drive. You're going to want to use 30 second intervals in HMG and just have it run a slideshow on them all.

Really, though, the DVD or the flash drive results in the same ending. If the DVD is working fine for you, then no reason to stop. I just went for the flash drive method for the above.

I've been using my Panny like I would normally, but for 2-3 hours a day I run the break in disc... No IR at all so far. And that includes heavy use of ESPN and some Xbox gaming...

I would say about 75 hours in on the break in... I'm going to go for 150 to be safe.

It serves the same purpose.


If you watch only full screen, non-static images, you can turn the brightness, contrast, and cell light all the way up. Besides wear on your TV and slightly shorter life expectancy (which shouldn't concern you at all considering how long today's plasmas last), you will not suffer more (or any) burn in or IR.

Note that a HUD or a station logo counts as a static image.

hi guys well i have using the dvd for break my plasma more less 63 hours,, I know that I should have at least 100 or 200 hours,,,but wonder i at this point i could play some 360 and ps3 with all my settings below 50... just for a couple of hours (1 or 3) at day...


Also just happend me 2 times after watch some blu ray movies when I used the subtitle option, when I change to a black background I get a ghost retention of the subtitles not very clear only if you get near, of course after i change the colors the ghost image its gone...this is normal??

sorry for my english its not my mean language

thks for your comments

I would hold off on the gaming for a bit more...

And yes, it's normal that the ghost is gone. Do you miss it?


FWIW, I watched the football game last night, and the end of the Sox-Yanks game too, and noticed an ESPN logo on the bottom right. Not very clear, but you could tell something was there. And that was only on an all black screen. I wouldn't have even noticed it if it weren't an all black screen. And after running the break in DVD a little more, it's gone.

I'm still under 150 hours so I almost expect IR, but this is the first time seeing it. And I'm not worried because I couldn't even see it until it was a black screen.

I had the same problem with the ESPN logo. How long did it take you to get it to go away? Mine was still there after a couple of hours when i was watching the Patriot. It makes me worry that I might have burned it in...