Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 11

Hi, below is a copy of a post I put into the Sammy 550 thread. I maybe should have put it here?? Any help will be much appreciated:

I'm looking at the PN58A550 and have a question. We cannot get OTA here, and Comcast here won't be "upograding" our service to HD until the end of the year (just checked in again... last year they were saying Spring 08... they swear it's because the CA Coastal Commission wouldn't let them put in new wires ). Anyway, that means that any TV we watch is 4:3 (up to 4-hours/night). Is that a concern? Should I go with a 52" LCD instead? Thanks.

I downloaded the Break-In DVD, burned it and now what I get when played on my plasma is, full screen RGB colors that switch every so often.

Is this what's suppose to be on the Break-In DVD. It seems kinda bright with nothing on it but the RGB full screen colors, I thought it would have been some kind of moving picture.

That's what it is. It cycles through the full screen colors so that all the phosphors get excercised across the range of colors.

I picked up a returned Pioneer 6070HD for ~$1500 that has some burn-in(?) from playing 2.35 material on it in the store. Can I mitigate the burn-in? Does a free or downloadable anti-2.35 disc exist? Will the Burn-in disc help at all? I wouldn't think so, but I really don't know. I only have about 16 hours (from now) to return it. The panel has about 432 hours on it according to the service menu. Please help!!! Does Pixel Protector work? I have read through this entire thread but I don't see fixes.... just arguments as to whether plasmas suffer from burn-in. Whatever this is, I'd like to get rid of it. I really, really like the picture except for the slightly brighter areas at the top and bottom. It is really only noticeable on solid, bright scenes (a horizon shot, for instance.)

Anywho, thanks for any input!

Thanks.

if it's been displaying 2.35 material in torch mode for the past 400+ hours, the odds for you to completely erase IR is minimal.

Thanks. That's what I figured.

[ Does Pixel Protector work? I have read through this entire thread but I don't see fixes.... just arguments as to whether plasmas suffer from burn-in.
Thanks.[/quote]

Has anyone used Pixel Protector ? My 4271 goes black whenever I try to use a channell with no signal , it will show "snow " for 10 seconds only. I have run 12 hours of Full Screen HD AND MY GHOSTING IS STILL THERE BRIGHT AS EVER.

Attention New Panasonic Plasma Owners,

I just purchased a 42" Panasonic PZ85U and was half way into the break-in period when I decided to call Panasonic and see if it was completely necessary. I was told directly by Panasonic Canada's phone support that each new Plasma TV gets 100hrs put on it before it leaves the factory thus making further break-in unnecessary. I suppose the extra 50 hrs I gave it will just have to be icing on the cake!

I posted the same thing several pages ago.

Don't kid yourself!, I was told the EXACT same thing by 2 different Panny reps. That they burn in for 100 hours at the factory. Well I decided to check for myself and accessed the system menu that shows how many hours have been put on the set. To my surprise, mine only had 60 hours! all of which had to have been put on by me, as I had the set for 2 weeks at that point.













So the Panny reps are full of ****. I emailed them back expressing how pissed that they would B.S people like that and risk having their customers developing IR because they did not break in the unit as they claimed.

Just thought I would pass that along.

PS: I received NO reply to my email from Panasonic regarding my findings

Have had my 58PZ700u for 11 months (would guess I have ~ 4500 hrs on the set) with no issues (run in standard mode with reasonable contrast/brightness settings). However, about 1 week ago, I started noticing a 4:3 wear pattern. The pattern is noticeable about 10% of material...most notable on light/bright colours...white, sky blue etc. etc. where the sidebars are a bit lighter than the central part of the screen...which appears a bit 'dirtier', but only in direct comparison.

It would appear that the phosphors in the central part of the screen have been subjected to greater wear/use. However, while 4:3 constitutes approx. 50% of my viewing material, I was surprised to see this wear pattern since my cable box always projects the 4:3 side bars as medium gray rather than black (thereby ensuring they're subjected to some wear). The issue is definitely with the panel rather than the cable box, since its reproducable with other sources (HD DVD etc.)

Is there anyway to rectify this? Are there any DVD's etc. that I can run to induce greater wear in the side bars? Is this a mfg defect? Is this something I can follow up w/ Panasonic about and ask for a replacement?

I would assume if they burn in a TV at the factory, they reset the hour meter, or burn in the panel before it's even installed into the case, to assure it passes Q/C.

If they burned in TV's for 100 hours, and didn't reset the meters, they'd be taking thousands of calls from people pissed they had a "used" TV because the hour meter wasn't at zero. I wouldn't take the fact your hour meter came with "0" on it as meaning it wasn't burned in at the factory.

^^True. Much the same that many car manufacturers break in your engine before installing it in your car. Your odo still reads zero when it comes off the assembly line.

It would be foolish of panasonic to build the tv in its entirety then break it in. This is likely an intermediary process in the assembly.

That's really disappointing to read. I've stated before (maybe on this thread?) that I feel uneven wear from 4:3 material is still the biggest danger in regards to burn-in. I assumed the gray bars would eliminate this risk, but I guess not. I doubt Panny would cover that, but it won't hurt to ask.

You may search through the Burn-in thread on the CRT Projection TV's. It seems like I read on there at one time about someone making a static image where the static was just on the sides of the 4:3 that they would run over night with the contrast turned up to even the wear out. What you are going to have to do is display an image on the edges where the bars were, and not in the middle. Maybe a calibrator or someone with more technical knowledge than I will chime in.

Has anyone used Pixel Protector ? My 4271 goes black whenever I try to use a channell with no signal , it will show "snow " for 10 seconds only. I have run 12 hours of Full Screen HD AND MY GHOSTING IS STILL THERE BRIGHT AS EVER.[/quote]

might be fading ?

Yes, that is exactly what I need to do...i.e. run a signal (presumably overnight) that induces wear in the side bars, but leaves the middle of the screen black. I assumed I can;t possibly be the only one with this issue and thought a solution such as I've described above may already exist.

Alternatively, I understand that the service mode in this set allows one to tweak the intensity of the side bars to address precisely this issue. I'm able to access the service menu, but the contents are Greek to me. Does anyone know where in the menu I can locate the appropriate menu/submenu.

Where do you find the menu on the 50pz85u that shows how many hours the set has been used. I'm trying to keep track for the break-in period.

As with most gamers who are breaking in a Plasma, I'm DYING to play some video games. I played one game of MLB the Show with the settings cranked way down to the 30s...no IR whatsoever. However, I'm anxious to sit down and have a true gaming session with my setting displayed somewhat normal (40s-50 range, I have a panasonic PX80.

My question, are there any good games on PS3 (or 360) in which I have the option to turn off all of the static images?

My PS3 choice is Call of Duty 4, you can play hardcore online (no HUD). I play some in a zoom mode to move the HUD a little. Played many hours with a well broken in pioneer 4270 and I do have some minor IR (noticable on white screen) and still hoping it will go away. Just have to pay attention to your game play.

It should be in the service menu. If you don't where it is at you probably should not get into it. Record your hours manually.

The COD suggestion was good, if you just play a bunch of online deathmatch type games the HUD will constantly be "interrupted", when you get killed, in the pre-game lobby, etc.

As you've now discovered that a game of MLB won't show up, feel free to play two games. Or play one game with the contrast at 50, etc. Do some experiments to see if there's even anything worth worrying about. One game can't ruin your set and you may find (as I did with my PX77) that all this break in/IR/gaming stuff is overblown.

jeff

Thanks for the advice.

Unfortunatly I have COD4 on the 360, and for some strange reason I'm having problems with my XBLive account and can't play online right now. I think you're right though...I'll try MLB again and take it from there.

i'm risking it an playing the 5010 straight out of the box w/D-Nice ref settings. i may play the break in w/the torch settings overnight and during work though.

I recently picked up a plasma tv (Maxent MX-42X3 if it matters). It's not an extremely new model, but isn't too old either. I'd estimate that I've put in maybe 300-400 hours into it, so it should be past it's initial break-in period. For gaming, I have my brightness/contrast both turned down to 40%, and I try not play any games for more than an hour or two without switching to something else for the same amount of time.

I never notice any IR problems *except* when I display a completely white screen. Then I'll notice some faint HUD images. If I completely stop playing the game for a week or so, they fade away. When I do notice these faint IR images, is it important for me to completely stop playing the game until they go away, or should I not be worrying about them so much? If I keep playing the same games, will they just keep cumulatively getting worse?

Thanks in advance for help/opinions.

I'm glad you guys brought up COD4 and gaming- I have a question related directly to that, and I was hoping someone can give me advice.

First, I have the panny 42PX77U model, and I had NO IDEA about breaking it in at all, although I wouldn't say I had the TV on really high settings. On top of that, the sales guy who sold me the TV told me burn in was a thing of the past due to a new technology where the pixels are constantly shuffled around, etc. Don't know if he was full of BS or not.

Well, just recently (I've had the TV for about 30 days now) I've noticed that part of the HUD from COD4 (PS3) is visible on the bottom left of my screen. I can only see it in certain conditions, but it's definitely there. Other things will stay on my screen and disappear later (IR?) but this doesn't disappear even after watching regular TV for several hours.

I feel like I was lied to and ripped off, because I told the guy I would be using the TV for gaming, and he made no mention of breaking it in first, and (apparently) lied about permanent burn in. I only noticed this after playing COD, so I'm going to do other things tonight and let the TV run to see if it clears the HUD image, but if it doesn't, have I suffered permanent damage? is there any way to correct it? And more importantly, is there any way to prevent it from happening again or getting worse?

I can -technically- take the TV back under their 30 day return policy up until tomorrow, and I will if that's the best way to go.

Hoping someone can assist me.
Thanks!

.. take it back and get the PX80U and start 'anew', w/ added awareness of a good break-in for (at least) the first 100-150hrs.

hell get the PZ80U, it's the same price as the PX77U.

I got mine on sale for $1199.00... that model isn't on sale, and it's $1499.00

I was hoping someone would give me an easier solution lol. Maybe I'll mess around with it and try to find the setting that is supposed to wash out the IR. In the meantime, I'll turn the contrast down a bit.

.. don't believe there's a "wash out" feature on that model, just the pixel shifter working in the background. Some have mentioned using the 'break-in DVD' to iron-out any potential BI, something that's pretty difficult unless you really game alot. Check this thread for good contrast settings to use w/ the B-I DVD for your model;

*add: the next 200hrs could be crucial in determining whether you indeed overdid it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t#post13440473

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t#post13487813

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t#post13239501

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t#post12706533

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t#post11955874

Thanks for the advice. I'm downloading the break in cd now. Will running that correct the problem if it can be corrected? Just wondering.