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Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 101

post #3001 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

Well, I think I found some tiny little (possible) bugs in the "official" break-in DVD / slide-show-pack.

----------
Let me show you the first like this...
The RGB stands for a Red, Green and Blue sub-pixel triple ("a pixel"). A thin R means that it's OFF and a bold R means it's ON. (The actual content has some steps between OFF and ON, so I mean OFF = 0%, ON = anything else but not zero.)


-----

Of course, it can't help with the fluctuating white balance across the grayscale (these are perfect grays but the device colors will randomly fluctuate). So may be it is not a bad idea to calibrate the TV first (not perfectly but "more or less" very fast...) if you have something like "10 point gray balance".


What do you think?

I understand what you have explained,If you have read some of my posts i have mentioned that newer plasma's(NeoPDP's) manufactured from year 2010 on wards are very much ready to use type.And one need not waste much time & elec..in break-in procedures.And in my case the panel started showing signs of faint red & yellow tints here & there on day one of the slide show.So i stopped this immediately and iam now atching more of BD movies in zoom1 mode so that the upper & lower black bars are not visible.And i have noticed that IR happens only at cold start up.i.e you must switch on the tv allow it to warm up for 30 to 45 minutes and then one can start calibrating their hdmi receivers,BD player settings or even use it as a PC monitor to view webcast,etc...
The same applies to watching tv broadcast with logos,when the panel is warmed up sufficiently you can watch channels with logos for 2 to 3 hours on a stretch.In case if it has lots of adds with logos in between,then for a whole day one can view that channel without getting any I.R or burn-in.
And iam doing exacting what i have told and the results are stunning.

Love,
kris.
post #3002 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by kris achar View Post

And in my case the panel started showing signs of faint red & yellow tints here & there on day one of the slide show.

Hmm. I started my slide-show and noticed that cool grays became pinkish (~15 minutes). I displayed a BD movie with zoom (~10 minutes) and restarted the slide-show. The grays were cool grays again for some minutes but became pink again after ~10 minutes.

Is it normal or should I lower the contrast/brightness? (I am using the factory default Standard mode.)
post #3003 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

Hmm. I started my slide-show and noticed that cool grays became pinkish (~15 minutes). I displayed a BD movie with zoom (~10 minutes) and restarted the slide-show. The grays were cool grays again for some minutes but became pink again after ~10 minutes.

Is it normal or should I lower the contrast/brightness? (I am using the factory default Standard mode.)

If you use the slides, you are supposed to use specific settings, NOT the factory default. See link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...15&postcount=1
post #3004 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

Hmm. I started my slide-show and noticed that cool grays became pinkish (~15 minutes). I displayed a BD movie with zoom (~10 minutes) and restarted the slide-show. The grays were cool grays again for some minutes but became pink again after ~10 minutes.

Is it normal or should I lower the contrast/brightness? (I am using the factory default Standard mode.)

Hi,

My panny is 'V' series with Neo PDP panel,i.e the panel is very sensitive and very responsive..compared to older plasma tv's.So i would suggest that you use your tv to view Action content like movies & sports.
Gradual aging of the panel by regular use is much better than forced aging as accomplished through color slide show!.
Once you damage your panel by wrong settings while doing break in slides no one is going to take the responsibility and it might also be difficult for you to return it back.Since my panny's operating manual speaks clearly that I.R and burn-in is not covered by warranty and advises us not to use static images for long duration.
And all the slide show procedures discussed here are more apt for old plasma panels only...
So don't waste time in aging the plasma panel.Since whatever would happen will happen,So handle it with care always.If you want to have a clean,clear, stainfree & burn free panel.

Love,
kris.
post #3005 of 4226
Hey everyone, I have been haunting this forum for alittle while. And you all seem to know your stuff, so I PRAY you can help me. Here is my issue. I recently got myself a Panasonic plasma G25. I am stationed in Okinawa Japan so my choices are VERY limited on TV's. When I saw her in the BX I HAD to have her. they had six left, accidentally sold the one I had purchased, and with no more in stock or coming, I took the floor model. PICTURE, AMAZING. I now had the best looking TV in the barracks. With folks streaming to my room on weekends Blu-Rays in hand. This is my first plasma TV, I had read about break in and assumed that since she was a floor model, then perhaps had reached the 100 or so hours, so then I went online looking for better picture setting, and the ones I had found increased the contrast, sharpness, brightness. Begin issues. Movies are amazing, but, I am a avid gamer (PS3) and at first had no issues (except for what appeared to be "noise" kinda grainy areas in the picture) but now after playing dead rising 2 for two hours, the "Total zombies killed" counter from the bottom right, stayed on screen clear as day. Begin panic. I ramped up the contrast and brightness and ran the scrolling bar, after 5-7 times now it slowly fading. BUT now, I seem to be having pretty bad image retention/burn in on almost everygame I play. I found the colored slides and I am using them as I type this, and intend to let them run while I am at work. BUT, in the slides I can see the outlines and fairly clear details of Test drive unlimited 2 that I played for 3 hours last night. Am I doomed? Haave I ruined the best TV I ever owned? Pleease help a total RETARD when it comes to Plasma TV's.
post #3006 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey_Fox719 View Post

Hey everyone, I have been haunting this forum for alittle while. And you all seem to know your stuff, so I PRAY you can help me. Here is my issue. I recently got myself a Panasonic plasma G25. I am stationed in Okinawa Japan so my choices are VERY limited on TV's. When I saw her in the BX I HAD to have her. they had six left, accidentally sold the one I had purchased, and with no more in stock or coming, I took the floor model. PICTURE, AMAZING. I now had the best looking TV in the barracks. With folks streaming to my room on weekends Blu-Rays in hand. This is my first plasma TV, I had read about break in and assumed that since she was a floor model, then perhaps had reached the 100 or so hours, so then I went online looking for better picture setting, and the ones I had found increased the contrast, sharpness, brightness. Begin issues. Movies are amazing, but, I am a avid gamer (PS3) and at first had no issues (except for what appeared to be "noise" kinda grainy areas in the picture) but now after playing dead rising 2 for two hours, the "Total zombies killed" counter from the bottom right, stayed on screen clear as day. Begin panic. I ramped up the contrast and brightness and ran the scrolling bar, after 5-7 times now it slowly fading. BUT now, I seem to be having pretty bad image retention/burn in on almost everygame I play. I found the colored slides and I am using them as I type this, and intend to let them run while I am at work. BUT, in the slides I can see the outlines and fairly clear details of Test drive unlimited 2 that I played for 3 hours last night. Am I doomed? Haave I ruined the best TV I ever owned? Pleease help a total RETARD when it comes to Plasma TV's.


Relax bro. Take a deep breath and smoke a cigarette or something . What you are seeing is IR and not Burn In (BI). First of all, forget the slides. Set your contrast at around 55-60. Brightness around 35-40 and Sharpness lower than 35.
After you are done gaming, watch some HD video on full screen without any logos or whatever. If you get SD then ZOOM the image so it fills up the screen. Let this play for about an hour or so and you will have zero IR or BI.
Lastly, set your orbiter to every 2 minutes or so and enjoy your Plasma.
BTW, make sure you charge a $5 admission for the entertainment. LOL!
post #3007 of 4226
Would it help prevent burn-in/IR by warming(heating) up the TV/phosphors first? Rather then watching static images after a cold-start?
post #3008 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanVanVan View Post

Would it help prevent burn-in/IR by warming(heating) up the TV/phosphors first? Rather then watching static images after a cold-start ?

Yes,

Warm up the tv by watching BD content fullscreen for 30 to 45 minutes then shift to watching movies,news,sports with logos for 3 hours at a stretch or view photos and can even work on pc with page refreshing every 5 minutes...
Also can caliberate your HDMI Receivers,Set top box or BD player once its warmed up well.
And what i have said above is from my experience with my panny plasma tv 'V'series yr-2010 model.
And i will not recommend to anyone to use color slides to break-in for plasmas purchased from the year 2010 onwards.i.e NEO-PDP panels are very sensitive & responsive so it tends to leave color stains here and there in grey scale.
So use your plasma wisely and get the maximum pleasure of fine picture quality.And by the way plasma's are not for rough use.Its on par with RR(Rolls Royce cars).while the LCD'S & LED'S are like toyotas & Hondas.indeed they do their job but the ride quality is much to be desired.

Love,
kris.
post #3009 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by kris achar View Post

Yes,

Warm up the tv by watching BD content fullscreen for 30 to 45 minutes then shift to watching movies,news,sports with logos for 3 hours at a stretch or view photos and can even work on pc with page refreshing every 5 minutes...
Also can caliberate your HDMI Receivers,Set top box or BD player once its warmed up well.
And what i have said above is from my experience with my panny plasma tv 'V'series yr-2010 model.
And i will not recommend to anyone to use color slides to break-in for plasmas purchased from the year 2010 onwards.i.e NEO-PDP panels are very sensitive & responsive so it tends to leave color stains here and there in grey scale.
So use your plasma wisely and get the maximum pleasure of fine picture quality.And by the way plasma's are not for rough use.Its on par with RR(Rolls Royce cars).while the LCD'S & LED'S are like toyotas & Hondas.indeed they do their job but the ride quality is much to be desired.

Love,
kris.

Aright yeah thanks I was just asking cause I've been putting off playing Xbox 360 for the past couple weeks and had a feeling warming up the TV might be a good idea...I had downloaded the slides with the intention of using them a couple weeks ago. But I've been following (I think) your recommendation of just normal TV habits with full screen content and letting the TV rest...Probably close to 150 hours now, just saw my first slight IR with an Encore logo yesterday afternoon, but as soon as I noticed it I zoomed in and it disappeared after about 10 minutes...Not bad at all...
post #3010 of 4226
According to my short-time experience, IR is actually worse with warmed up panel.

But I will do homework for 1-2 hours (MathCAD, AutoCAD, PDF viewer, so "semi-static" content) and check if ~20 minutes of game-play (I started Portal 2 yesterday - it's a good game and doesn't have a HUD...) is able to erase the IR.

If everything is OK, then I will remove the plastic tapes from the bezel and place the box on the loft. If not, well..., I will think about the possibility to revert to my old H-IPS or sell the H-IPS and get a TN+Film for these tasks...
post #3011 of 4226
I'll be receiving my unit this wednesday and i've been doing tons of research on breaking in sets and i found this video on youtube which doesn't seem like a bad idea. i was wondering what people here though about it and if i should go this route.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlzN3...eature=related
post #3012 of 4226
Hey, guys, I'm a gamer here and owner of the Panasonic plasma TC-P46G10. I have a question regarding burn-in that I think I already know the answer to, but I would like some confirmation from the experts. Up until now, I've used only the PS3 and 360 on the plasma, and I have kept my old CRT SDTV around for my SD game consoles. Recently, I noticed some annoying geometry/alignment issues with the tube TV and decided to give it away. I've been using the plasma as my all-purpose gaming TV ever since.

This means that, for the first time ever, I've been playing SD games on my HD television. While the picture quality is fine as long as I sit far away from the TV, I can't help but notice the presence of half-inch long black vertical bars on the sides of the screen during some games. This worries me somewhat because while in-game static images will go away during cutscenes, menus, etc., these black bars are there for the entire time I'm playing the game.

What I would like to know is how worried should I be about permanent burn-in when playing games that feature these bars? Of course, I'll mix in some full-screen TV watching with my retro gaming and even run the white "sweeping" anti-IR image after every play session. I know to keep my brightness setting low and won't do anything crazy like leave these bars on for days straight. As long as I use common sense, playing even something like an epic 70 hour RPG shouldn't pose any problems, right? The set is nearly two years old (2009 model, purchased in September of that year), and I've never experienced any problems other than the minor temporary image retention characteristic of plasma TVs.
post #3013 of 4226
I have a Kuro PRO-101FD. One of the primary uses for this display is playing PC games.

I just noticed that while playing PC games, the screen doesn't fill up completely. There are very small black strips on the sides where the image won't fill the screen.

Question: Could these black strips burn into the TV?

Thanks in advance.
post #3014 of 4226
The last two comments are what I'm worrying about as well. Playing SD games and other inputs produces black bars. I don't think burn-in is a problem, but it is definitely a problem with aging the phosphors uniformly. If you do a lot of retro gaming, it could make a noticeable impact on the screen. Anybody have any suggestions, or is this is an unavoidable problem? No Format mode on the television or console seem to fix the issue.
post #3015 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoPlusTwo View Post

I have a Kuro PRO-101FD. One of the primary uses for this display is playing PC games.

I just noticed that while playing PC games, the screen doesn't fill up completely. There are very small black strips on the sides where the image won't fill the screen.

Question: Could these black strips burn into the TV?

Thanks in advance.

Anytime you're not using a percentage of the screen like that you're going to burn those other pixels faster than those unused pixels. Like everything else, this is OK in limited situations. There should be a way though to adjust your image settings to get it to be full screen.
post #3016 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by joedaddyecw View Post

I'll be receiving my unit this wednesday and i've been doing tons of research on breaking in sets and i found this video on youtube which doesn't seem like a bad idea. i was wondering what people here though about it and if i should go this route.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlzN3...eature=related

If you use this Xbox 360 method make sure to zoom in the image since the 360 visualizer that plays during music doesn't fill the screen.
post #3017 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Relysis View Post

The last two comments are what I'm worrying about as well. Playing SD games and other inputs produces black bars. I don't think burn-in is a problem, but it is definitely a problem with aging the phosphors uniformly. If you do a lot of retro gaming, it could make a noticeable impact on the screen. Anybody have any suggestions, or is this is an unavoidable problem? No Format mode on the television or console seem to fix the issue.

You should avoid too much time spent with black bar content. The gray bars for 4:3 content exist for a reason. Watching 2:35:1 content is fine as long as that is not all you do. It is common for people to get a plasma but still primarily view SD content and if they don't use the built in gray bars they will eventually have a problem. For 4:3 content can't you just change your TV's aspect to that so that the gray bars get activated?
post #3018 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey_Fox719 View Post

Hey everyone, I have been haunting this forum for alittle while. And you all seem to know your stuff, so I PRAY you can help me. Here is my issue. I recently got myself a Panasonic plasma G25. I am stationed in Okinawa Japan so my choices are VERY limited on TV's. When I saw her in the BX I HAD to have her. they had six left, accidentally sold the one I had purchased, and with no more in stock or coming, I took the floor model. PICTURE, AMAZING. I now had the best looking TV in the barracks. With folks streaming to my room on weekends Blu-Rays in hand. This is my first plasma TV, I had read about break in and assumed that since she was a floor model, then perhaps had reached the 100 or so hours, so then I went online looking for better picture setting, and the ones I had found increased the contrast, sharpness, brightness. Begin issues. Movies are amazing, but, I am a avid gamer (PS3) and at first had no issues (except for what appeared to be "noise" kinda grainy areas in the picture) but now after playing dead rising 2 for two hours, the "Total zombies killed" counter from the bottom right, stayed on screen clear as day. Begin panic. I ramped up the contrast and brightness and ran the scrolling bar, after 5-7 times now it slowly fading. BUT now, I seem to be having pretty bad image retention/burn in on almost everygame I play. I found the colored slides and I am using them as I type this, and intend to let them run while I am at work. BUT, in the slides I can see the outlines and fairly clear details of Test drive unlimited 2 that I played for 3 hours last night. Am I doomed? Haave I ruined the best TV I ever owned? Pleease help a total RETARD when it comes to Plasma TV's.

The Zombrez hexagon is a bitch, that gets retained very easily. Basically any HUD element that is white and sharp leaves noticeable IR without much time spent in the game. As mentioned though it is IR and not burn-in, takes quite a while for a retained image to be considered as much. If you game just make sure you mix up your viewing content as much as you can but IR will happen. I have a VT25 that is about a year old so it has many hours on it and over the weekend I got addicted to Nier on the 360 and while watching my CW shows I can see the Health/Magic meter without making much effort to do so. It happens.
post #3019 of 4226
There is some bad advice in this thread. Reader beware.
post #3020 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord_Spanky View Post

There is some bad advice in this thread. Reader beware.

What's your advice?
post #3021 of 4226
and which advice is bad?
post #3022 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by emackn View Post
and which advice is bad?
My educated advice NEVER GAME OR COMPUTE on a Plasma! You want see any games at BEST BUY being played on a Plasma ! What is this guy suppose to do, never play that same game ever again. ? GG
post #3023 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac31391 View Post
My educated advice NEVER GAME OR COMPUTE on a Plasma! You want see any games at BEST BUY being played on a Plasma ! What is this guy suppose to do, never play that same game ever again. ? GG
Or they could listen to those who game on their plasma with no problems. You know...as apposed to someone who spends a sad amount of time trolling.
I recently spent 70+ hours playing The Elderscrolls 4 Oblivion on my new low end 720p Samsung plasma. I made sure to mix up my content while not playing. After 70+ hours, it only took 4 or 5 days of normal daily use for all traces of IR to fade. The IR was only visible with my face right next to the screen, so I wasn't very worried. If a low end plasma can pull this off then I would say that mid to high end would have no problem.
post #3024 of 4226
Ok here goes...

Currently have a new Samsung LED D6000 model and I'm on my second one as the first had some light bleed in the corner and minor clouding. The second one has the same problems of course so I'm looking at my options of either going plasma or just regular LCD until LED is optimized. I wouldn't consider myself a huge videophile but the clouding/light bleed are definitely noticeable and annoying.

That said, in regards to looking at plasma, my main concern is IR of course. The reason for this is because I'm a huge gamer (I say huge but probably not compared to some) where I might game two hours a night during the week, or up to 6 on the weekend. Usually my sessions don't last for more than a couple hours either way. Now I know from reading here that simple IR is corrected after several hours of watching something different that caused the IR in the first place. Am I correct in this statement?

I do have a 23" LED monitor I use for my PC that has HDMI, so I could use that for gaming/non fullscreen images until I have a few hundred hours on the plasma. I currently have the Best Buy Black Tie which covers burn in, but of course that would be annoying having to go through that process.

My other option would be to stick with a standard LCD. I haven't specifically looked at one of these as I wanted LED from the beginning of my search. My old TV was LCD and I was happy with it, minus the fact it was five years old, only 720p, and had some pixel issues.

Either way I only have a week left on my 30 days so I could either go with one of these options or just exchange my LED for the same model in hopes of getting one with less light bleeding.

In summary, for those that game a lot on plasmas, even with the pixel orbiting feature, how bad can IR be? Is it something really noticeable on another game/movie, or is it something that can only be seen really on a white background if you look close enough?

Thanks for the info.
post #3025 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

Hmm. I started my slide-show and noticed that cool grays became pinkish (~15 minutes). I displayed a BD movie with zoom (~10 minutes) and restarted the slide-show. The grays were cool grays again for some minutes but became pink again after ~10 minutes.

Is it normal or should I lower the contrast/brightness? (I am using the factory default Standard mode.)

Your first mistake is to bother with the slides in the first place. Just calibrate and watch full screen content as much as possible while phosphors are new. Pay no attention to that break-in slide BS.
post #3026 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_o_00 View Post

Ok here goes...

Currently have a new Samsung LED D6000 model and I'm on my second one as the first had some light bleed in the corner and minor clouding. The second one has the same problems of course so I'm looking at my options of either going plasma or just regular LCD until LED is optimized. I wouldn't consider myself a huge videophile but the clouding/light bleed are definitely noticeable and annoying.

That said, in regards to looking at plasma, my main concern is IR of course. The reason for this is because I'm a huge gamer (I say huge but probably not compared to some) where I might game two hours a night during the week, or up to 6 on the weekend. Usually my sessions don't last for more than a couple hours either way. Now I know from reading here that simple IR is corrected after several hours of watching something different that caused the IR in the first place. Am I correct in this statement?

I do have a 23" LED monitor I use for my PC that has HDMI, so I could use that for gaming/non fullscreen images until I have a few hundred hours on the plasma. I currently have the Best Buy Black Tie which covers burn in, but of course that would be annoying having to go through that process.

My other option would be to stick with a standard LCD. I haven't specifically looked at one of these as I wanted LED from the beginning of my search. My old TV was LCD and I was happy with it, minus the fact it was five years old, only 720p, and had some pixel issues.

Either way I only have a week left on my 30 days so I could either go with one of these options or just exchange my LED for the same model in hopes of getting one with less light bleeding.

In summary, for those that game a lot on plasmas, even with the pixel orbiting feature, how bad can IR be? Is it something really noticeable on another game/movie, or is it something that can only be seen really on a white background if you look close enough?

Thanks for the info.

It can go like this. You eventually get hooked on a game with pervasive HUD elements. So you'll be watching something, outside of game of course, and you'll go "hey there is the outline of that HUD element from that game I'm playing".

Response 1: It doesn't bother you much as you know it is IR and it will go away eventually.

Repsonse 2: It bothers you and you'll want to remove it ASAP. The first thing to do is to avoid the source that created the IR. This can be difficult if it was due to a game that you are really into.
post #3027 of 4226
Does the pixel orbiting feature help diminish this though? I understand that some HUDs are going to be too thick or wide that it wouldn't really matter. I like games that just don't have the garbage. For instance playing through Uncharted it doesn't have anything except for ammo, and that goes away after a while when not shooting.
post #3028 of 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_o_00 View Post

Does the pixel orbiting feature help diminish this though? I understand that some HUDs are going to be too thick or wide that it wouldn't really matter. I like games that just don't have the garbage. For instance playing through Uncharted it doesn't have anything except for ammo, and that goes away after a while when not shooting.

The Pixel Orbiter just keeps the retained image from being sharp, it doesn't keep it from happening. Sure not all games will leave IR, that's why I used the term pervasive in describing a game HUD. If you game you will get IR, how you react to it depends. Bothers the hell out of some and doesn't bother others. LCD doesn't have this problem so an avid gamer has to keep this in mind.
post #3029 of 4226
Well it can't be any worse than the issues I have with LED at this moment.
post #3030 of 4226
I am over 200 hours and I didn't really experienced any IR until now (I wasn't really paranoid about it), so I thought it wouldn't hurt if I stop paying attention to vary the screen contents.
Well, I just got my first IR... I played Portal 2 for 3 hours continuously and the blue/orange cross-hair left a mark. It was noticeable in Windows after I quit, so I ran the "scrolling bars" for ~30 minutes. It is weaker now but I can still recognize them on homogeneous black/blue/orange images.

Is it "normal" or does it mean that I should go back to the LCDs before I broke this panel?
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