Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 109

I just purchased the GT30 and broke in the set for about 160 hours. Add a month or two of casual watching I was well over the break in point. I just bought Dark Souls and can definitely see image retention on all corners of the screen. It's not really noticeable in casual watching, but if you watch for you can catch it on occasions.

Hi all. Bought a 42" GT25 in July. My wife's favorite channel is TLC, and the stupid logo is burnt in at the moment. Noticed it about two weeks ago, since then she has watched very little, and I have run probably 15-20 hours of football as well as cumulative 2 hours of the screen wipe. It doesn't appear to have faded at all.

I'm pretty surprised to have encountered this, she doesn't watch more than 7 hours a WEEK, and I have used it plenty for gaming, football, etc. In fact if anything I was worried about getting burn-in from the DKCR HUD, but there is nothing at all there. We watch movies as well.

Everything I read was that we didn't really need to worry about this unless we were watching one station with a static logo/ticker for many hours a day. I'm sure we got at least 50-75 hours on the TV before we even got cable service at all, and like I said our usage has always been well-mixed. I'm really disappointed about this. Ultimately it's not the end of the world, I don't really notice it unless I look for it, but it's not something that I feel I should have to be dealing with.

So, besides just venting, I was wondering if there is anything I can do to try to get this logo to fade? I see some people saying this stuff fades with time, others saying they have IR/burn-in that has never gone away. The screen wipe doesn't help much because it only lasts 15 minutes. Any suggestions for something I can leave running over night that could help? I see mention of solid-color slides, will running those continuously over night do me any good? Obviously TV stations are out due to logos . . .

Anyone had luck with warranty claims with Panasonic over burn-in?

TIA

^^What did you guys had your Contrast and Brightness set at?

Mostly I have had it in THX mode on Contrast 65 Brightness 51. I have Custom set to Contrast 85 but I only put that on if I'm watching a game during the day. (Fairly bright room in morning/early afternoon) It may have been left that way here and there when my wife was using it but the majority of viewing has been at THX/65/51.

Might want to get the Brightness/Contrast down to 55/56, believe me it helps!

Disney WoW disk. Use the Pixel Flipper. It's the only suggestion I have, and others might have better ones.

Thanks. Checked out some video of the Dark Souls HUD.

... Burn in aside, that HUD is /gigantic./ It covers up a large portion of the screen! I think I'd actually try playing the game with it off and just guestimate how much ammo, health, and mana I had.

Panasonic ST30 after 3-4 hours of GoW3 on Horde.

Broken in for 100 hours with slides, then set with D-Nice settings, set is around 1000 hours old.

next time you post a pic, make sure it clearly shows the issue. I dont see any issue with that pic.

^ I can't see an issue in the picture either.

Hi,

I received a 65VT30E european model yesterday
I plan on using the slides to break it in... but I need help on the correct way to do it!

What is the procedure for this?

Just stick it in THX mode and run the slides? And at what interval between slides? What about contrast/brightness in THX mode... should I leave everything at default in THX mode to break in using slides?

Thanks

Neither of you have good monitors in that case. I do see it. Circular logo retention.

... I see it, faintly. Looks like a very /very/ pale cog. Honestly, I don't think that would bother me too much if it happened on my set, and I think that's well within the range of IR that goes away without too much worry.

Dunno if it matters, but my computer monitor is a FW900.

I have an early 2011 Macbook Pro and I don't see it...

Update:

The logo is still there, but more faint.

I'm tempted to get rid of this IR and then sell the set in favour of an LCD panel, it's totally ruined the way I watch content and I'm sick of babying it.

ok, so this is probably a stupid question...
I found D-Links procedure, the burn in slides and transferred them to a SD card. The slides are not transitioning in order, but do I really care? Isn't the idea to exercise the RGB pixels in varying strength?

Guys. I bought a krp 500m a year ago. Palledia was burned in on the right corner lower. It was a display tv in a high def store.

I asked the dealer what he wanted for it. He said 3000 . I said look at the burn in on the right corner. He knocked it down to 1500 bucks. This was a year ago. I had Dnice calibrate it. He saw the burn in. He wasn't worried either. He said after a few hundred hours it would go away.

A year later and he was right. Gone.

I have been playing a lot of gears 3 lately too. I have 3 plasma's still I game on my PC monitor. 27 inch compaq.

I have never felt right gaming for long hours on a plasma. Like you said. LCD is the way to go for you.

Dnice also states in his panel prep that Break in is not designed to prevent IR or Burn in.

Hey guys, hope you can help me with this.

I read elsewhere that a plasma tv is susceptible to burn-ins only within the first 1000 hours of use.
If I know have the break-in images run for about 200 hours at maximum contrast and brightness, will that be about just as good as 1000 hours of normal use, so that my TV won't be susceptible to burn-ins anymore? I know you can't tell exactly, so I'd just like to hear an estimate.

Hi,
My humble request is don't waste time running colour slides for the first 100 or 200 hrs.Since if you are not carefull with static images you will get IR even after 200 hrs or one year of usage.So simply use your new plasma tv to view HD movies or BD content without logos and black bars on top/bottm or at the sides.And if you use colour slides 24x7 for a week or two.Iam sure your plasma panel will reach half life much sooner.Even if it does not reach some of the caps or the power regulation IC's and circuit boards will become weak.
So 4 to 6 hours of normal viewing with color and contrast to your liking will be just okay.Dynamic mode or torch mode should be avoided...

Here is a link that i request you to read about plasma panel aging and you can also read the other pages on this link.It should clear most of your doubts.

http://www.audioholics.com/education...ormance-page-3

Love,
kris.

Hey, kris.

Thanks for your answer.
Since burn-ins might appear even after lots of hours of use, I'm always afraid something like this will happen sooner or later. Even though I'm pretty convinced by the plasma tv image quality, I'm not really sure if I wouldn't be better off buying an LCD with Full LED, since I'm planning to use it at least 50% of the time for my PS3.

I feel for you, Man! Plasmas ruin the way we want to watch our TVs

Four potentially stupid questions:

1) Is there a reason we have to reduce contrast and brightness for the break-in slides? I'm not saying I want to max them out anyway, but if they're all wearing in evenly, what's the difference?

2) I wouldn't mind running the break-in slides on a DVD, but is anybody cautious about destroying their laser with their DVD player? For instance, I would probably be running mine with my PS3 (I don't really have any other kinds of DVD players anymore lol). Wouldn't running it for 100 hours straight probably be problematic for the player?

3) Does anybody just occasionally run their slides at night for the heck of it? Like, say you did 150 hours of break-in, then you watch a movie some night... would it be beneficial to just let it run for another nine hours while you're sleeping, just to help break it in more?

4) I'll be getting a Samsung PN59D7000 soon. Should I calibrate this set with the white balance and other color adjustments first before breaking in? That way, it's wearing in the colors I'll actually be using on the TV, if that makes sense. (along with changing to Warm 2, etc.)

Thanks.


EDIT: And a fifth question with two parts...

5) Does the scrolling black--white burn-in prevention feature really help much if it's not using other colors as well? If so, how would just watching a snowy scrambled channel do as a burn-in prevention tactic? It would just be flashing white and black all over the place. Maybe that's good for something?

This is a question for any and all Panasonic plasma owners. I think it would be nice to clear this up for new plasma owners also.

I have always wondered what Picture Modes and/or which HD Size turns off the orbiter without us knowing.

For example i have read in some modes that the set automatically turns the orbiter off depending on which HD SIZE you have it set too. Trying to find concrete information on this has proven to be difficult. I have always gamed in THX mode, but now im not sure its wise simply because i do not know for certain if the Pixel Orbitor has been disabled or not. Does HD Size 1 turn the pixel orbiter on? Does HD Size 2 turn it off or vice versa? So i now use game mode because i am 99.9% positive that the Orbitor is not off in this mode. I am one of these people who cannot see the orbitor shifting the pixels on my panel, so its futile for me to stare at the set looking for pixel movement. I know some people have been affected by bad IR from gaming, and i think its critical for people especially gamers to know if they have unknowingly turned off the pixel orbitor.

Could someone please clear this up. I dont really worry too much about IR, however i do want to make sure my set is being protected as much as possible.

Thanks,

Mike

Hi,
If you use your tv primarily for playing games or for watching sports & news channel with dark coloured logos & running stickers.Its safe to go in for L.E.D Hdtv with local dimming from reputed brands like Sharp,Sony....
But if you are a Hollywood movie lover then you should buy a plasma.
But IR & permanent burn-in are not very serious issues with modern day plasma.And if your tv dealer gives you 30 day return back facility if not satisfied with the performance,then i would suggest you to buy Panasonic plasma and test it for IR.And please do not waste time & elec energy by running color slides.And as far as brightness/Contrast/Color settings just set it to levels with which your eyes are comfortable with.
By the way all my close relatives have LCD's and i could not digest the picture quality for more than 30 minutes.The color gradation looks very limited most of the sea & ocean sequence the blue looks the same with no variation.I would say the Modern plasmas have come very close to the old CRT picture quality in terms of its natural colour feel.
Love,
kris.

Hi,
All the above questions you have asked,i would like to answer it in brief.Since most of your questions have been answered earlier in this thread by our forum regulars.
What i want to add here is every brand of plasma tv's behaves a bit differently.And also hi-end and low end models,Since they are manufactured in different factories in different countries.
I have panasonic plasma 2D v20 series asian model.I did get mild IR for the first 100 hrs.Now the tv is around 6 months old and have done more than 250 hrs of normal viewing.The IR is not a problem any more for my regular HD DTH viewing.
And i have not used color sides but used it as a normal tv.
But i do not know for sure how your brand will react to the first 200 hrs of content viewing.
I would suggest you to use your tv as you did with your CRT.But avoide black bar content and dark channel logos for not more than 25 to 30 minutes.
And you should caliberate your new tv only after 250 hrs of regular use.the later you caliberate you will get more accurate settings.
Love,
kris.

By the way if you are very insistent on using break-in slides then use the usb option,i.e load all your color slides into a USB pen drive and just insert it into your plasma tv usb port which is usually seen in the side of the panel.It will switch automatically into photo viewing mode.The duration and effect you can set in the settings menu.Rest all is taken care by your tv itself.But i would say don't waste time & elec energy to break-in your plasma tv.That's old procedure....

You paid a lot for a reasonable build laptop, but not one with a screen that's anything to brag about. AFAIK only the iMacs and ACDs sport IPS screens so you can't expect to see proper gradations on a TN. They simply don't have the subtlety. The LED backlight also isn't helping anything. There's a reason people who care about color reproduction haven't gone over to those fancy LED screens. CCFL generally provide much more even backlight, even if the MLL is higher.


They are most susceptible during that time period, not only susceptible during that time period. In terms of your specific set, no one can tell you because there are differences from set to set in terms of being prone to IR.


In your opinion. People who've never seen IR on a set are more likely to take a "do whatever you want" stance. People who have are more likely to take a "be more careful" stance. I've seen IR on CRTs and LCDs. Getting a kuro on the firesale, I ran slides and babied it for the first 1k-1.5k hours knowing a replacement wouldn't be so easy to find.

One person might get a set that gets IR right out of the box. Another might get a set they abuse to all hell and never gets it. And anything in between. Everyone needs to decide for their own whether they want to do break-in. IMO an IR-prone set should be considered a defect provided the set hasn't been totally abused, but as it's not covered under warranties, a little care is worthwhile.

Thanks for all of your help, but I should have actually clarified a few things:

- I'm not a techie dinosaur. We have a plasma screen downstairs (although it's a Panasonic Viera TH-50PX6U... yeah, what the hell is that lol) that has a cable box and does all of the regular viewing. In my own room, I am going to replace my Samsung LN-T2353H LCD, in favor of remodeling that entire wall end and putting in a Samsung PN59D7000. So, I understand what it is that I want to do with these things when it comes to normal care and what not, but I have heard some certain things about plasma break-in processes that I do and don't understand.

- I will not be watching any normal TV whatsoever. This TV will strictly be for watching movies and playing games (also MLB.TV when the next season comes around, but that will leave a score ticker somewhere unfortunately). So, I could always watch Avatar over and over or whatever, but I wanted to age the phosphors for the first 150 hours or so, and then get some of that viewing in.

People always recommended to "change my contrast and brightness to 50" for these break-in hours, but my question is why? What separates 50 from 100, or from 25, or from what I will calibrate them at, or whatever?

Also, the reason I asked about the DVD is because the last time I tried a thumbstick on our plasma at school, I could only run slides for five seconds before switching to the next one, as opposed to running the suggested thirty seconds per slide. Maybe this TV will have different effect settings, though (one would hope). I suppose the DVD would have the actual, correct timing of all of these. That's the only reason I asked.

Anyway, thanks for all of your help. I'll see where to go from here.

I somewhere read some Panasonic support note saying that after a thousand hours of use, the danger of burn-ins is practically non-existing anymore. That's what I was refering to.


I won't only play games and I watch sports practically never. News just once or twice a day.

Right now I'm really into the Panasonic VT30 because of its said-to-be-amazing image quality. Would you say I can play 2 or 3 hours a day without having to worry?

Interesting question here I couldn't find an answer to: If you play for, let's say, an hour, then take a break of 5 minutes and go on for another hour, will that be of any use? Or would that break be too short and you could've just as well kept playing? So, does the length of a break matter?

Greetings