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Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 137

post #4081 of 5206
Update to my previous post about burn in on my VT50. Called BestBuy as a last resort three months after my original purchase and BestBuy replaced it even though I had no extended warranty. I purchased a two year extension just in case.
post #4082 of 5206
So about 3 days working on my "fox Soccer" logo IR and it has reduced but definitely can see it on the red slides. Hopefully it will continue to fade, over the next week.
post #4083 of 5206
Have a 55" Panasonic ST50. Have ONLY run the D-Nice phosphor aging precalibration slides
Quick Question about Image Retention "proofing/Run-in"...

1a)Read elsewhere, can't find again, that you should run full screen video, with no more than 25% black bars or static images, during first 1000 hours.
1b)--> Is that correct or sound plausible, ect?

2) Can I use the slide show provided by op, D-Nice, that was intended for pre-calibration phosphor aging, to run for the 1000 hours of full screen for retention proofing?
OR does the aforementioned 1000 hours of viewing need to be of full motion VIDEO? Opposed to static slide show provided for pre calibration?

3a) I'm in process of getting living room ready for the new ST50 and it's just been sitting since pre-christmas....
I DO NOT have any video source components to spare to run burn-in proofing on, while it's just sitting, but HATE to waste opportunity to perform "run-in" image retention proofing now
as it's pretty unlikely that rest of family will comply with the 1000 hours full screen only requirements once it's THE active tv in living room

We play A LOT of video games, so I feel image retention run-in is almost a MUST....

3b) Can anyone suggest or share 'IR run-in' material I could use - IF STATIC D-NICE slides won't cut it (must be full motion video?)
with a little 8 GB USB memory stick?

Then, how do I get source material to loop/play over and over without user input?


4) What's the longest I should run tv without a break during the 1000 hour IR run-in?

THANKS a lot. I mean it!!!!
post #4084 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldengrey15 View Post

Have a 55" Panasonic ST50. Have ONLY run the D-Nice phosphor aging precalibration slides
Quick Question about Image Retention "proofing/Run-in"...

1a)Read elsewhere, can't find again, that you should run full screen video, with no more than 25% black bars or static images, during first 1000 hours.
1b)--> Is that correct or sound plausible, ect?

2) Can I use the slide show provided by op, D-Nice, that was intended for pre-calibration phosphor aging, to run for the 1000 hours of full screen for retention proofing?
OR does the aforementioned 1000 hours of viewing need to be of full motion VIDEO? Opposed to static slide show provided for pre calibration?

3a) I'm in process of getting living room ready for the new ST50 and it's just been sitting since pre-christmas....
I DO NOT have any video source components to spare to run burn-in proofing on, while it's just sitting, but HATE to waste opportunity to perform "run-in" image retention proofing now
as it's pretty unlikely that rest of family will comply with the 1000 hours full screen only requirements once it's THE active tv in living room

We play A LOT of video games, so I feel image retention run-in is almost a MUST....

3b) Can anyone suggest or share 'IR run-in' material I could use - IF STATIC D-NICE slides won't cut it (must be full motion video?)
with a little 8 GB USB memory stick?

Then, how do I get source material to loop/play over and over without user input?


4) What's the longest I should run tv without a break during the 1000 hour IR run-in?

THANKS a lot. I mean it!!!!

DNices slides don't mitigate IR
post #4085 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldengrey15 View Post

Have a 55" Panasonic ST50. Have ONLY run the D-Nice phosphor aging precalibration slides
Quick Question about Image Retention "proofing/Run-in"...

1a)Read elsewhere, can't find again, that you should run full screen video, with no more than 25% black bars or static images, during first 1000 hours.
1b)--> Is that correct or sound plausible, ect?

2) Can I use the slide show provided by op, D-Nice, that was intended for pre-calibration phosphor aging, to run for the 1000 hours of full screen for retention proofing?
OR does the aforementioned 1000 hours of viewing need to be of full motion VIDEO? Opposed to static slide show provided for pre calibration?

3a) I'm in process of getting living room ready for the new ST50 and it's just been sitting since pre-christmas....
I DO NOT have any video source components to spare to run burn-in proofing on, while it's just sitting, but HATE to waste opportunity to perform "run-in" image retention proofing now
as it's pretty unlikely that rest of family will comply with the 1000 hours full screen only requirements once it's THE active tv in living room

We play A LOT of video games, so I feel image retention run-in is almost a MUST....

3b) Can anyone suggest or share 'IR run-in' material I could use - IF STATIC D-NICE slides won't cut it (must be full motion video?)
with a little 8 GB USB memory stick?

Then, how do I get source material to loop/play over and over without user input?


4) What's the longest I should run tv without a break during the 1000 hour IR run-in?

THANKS a lot. I mean it!!!!

1.) Sounds good for the first 100 hours, not for 1,000

2.) Aging the set for 1,000 hours will make it IR proof in the sense that, after 1,000 hours it will be less susceptible to IR. The same can be said for just watching the set for 1,000 hours however.

3.) Putting more hours on the set will make it "IR-Proof". You can accomplish that just by using it. When you aren't watching anything, running some type of content will help age it further.

4.) At the most you only need to run D-Nice slides for 100 hours, but even then it's unnecessary. You can just be careful of static images and watch TV with reduced contrast, also be aware you may get IR with excessive use of the menu. However, as I said in point #3, you're welcome to age the set further when it's not in use. I found that I stopped having IR issues around the 500 hour mark.

Best of luck! smile.gif
post #4086 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldengrey15 View Post

Have a 55" Panasonic ST50. Have ONLY run the D-Nice phosphor aging precalibration slides
Quick Question about Image Retention "proofing/Run-in"...

1a)Read elsewhere, can't find again, that you should run full screen video, with no more than 25% black bars or static images, during first 1000 hours.
1b)--> Is that correct or sound plausible, ect?

2) Can I use the slide show provided by op, D-Nice, that was intended for pre-calibration phosphor aging, to run for the 1000 hours of full screen for retention proofing?
OR does the aforementioned 1000 hours of viewing need to be of full motion VIDEO? Opposed to static slide show provided for pre calibration?

3a) I'm in process of getting living room ready for the new ST50 and it's just been sitting since pre-christmas....
I DO NOT have any video source components to spare to run burn-in proofing on, while it's just sitting, but HATE to waste opportunity to perform "run-in" image retention proofing now
as it's pretty unlikely that rest of family will comply with the 1000 hours full screen only requirements once it's THE active tv in living room

We play A LOT of video games, so I feel image retention run-in is almost a MUST....

3b) Can anyone suggest or share 'IR run-in' material I could use - IF STATIC D-NICE slides won't cut it (must be full motion video?)
with a little 8 GB USB memory stick?

Then, how do I get source material to loop/play over and over without user input?


4) What's the longest I should run tv without a break during the 1000 hour IR run-in?

THANKS a lot. I mean it!!!!
I am complete Noob so please do not take the following as Gospel, but I would respond as follows:

1a) 1b) Full screen will ensure even 'wear' of the pixels. I don't think there is a set point at which they stop wearing more quickly, so the longer you run balanced slides, the more the panel will get to the point that it is less susceptible to burn in or brighter patches where some pixels have been used less, which black bars may result in.

That said, how many Joe Public just open the box and watch whatever they want to watch with no issues? Probably loads.


2) The slides are not for retention proofing, they are for even pixel ageing. Don't forget that forums such as this will naturally get a higher percentage of people with problems as that's where people with problems gravitate too. I don't think IR is too much of an issue, given how many sets must have been sold compared to how many (few) people have problems on the forums.

Doesn't help those with problems, though... lol


3a) 3b) DNice slides on a memory stick or SD memory card seem to be the safest burn in / pixel ageing process - BD Players can get stuck and burn an image into the screen...

You can set the TV to repeat slideshow on the memory card when it is in, so just do that.


4) As long as it's in an area with good air circulation, it should stay cool enough to not be an issue. Just make sure the slides don't get stuck. Dont' forget that some sets get put on a wall and left to run 24/7/365 in a shopping centre, for example.



EDIT: Answers above are better than mine tongue.gif lol
post #4087 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldengrey15 View Post

...

3b) Can anyone suggest or share 'IR run-in' material I could use - IF STATIC D-NICE slides won't cut it (must be full motion video?)
with a little 8 GB USB memory stick?

Then, how do I get source material to loop/play over and over without user input?


4) What's the longest I should run tv without a break during the 1000 hour IR run-in?

THANKS a lot. I mean it!!!!

Hi, as an electronic-engineer, I can recommend you to use Pixel Jogger, put the mp4 video on an usb stick and play it on the TV mediaplayer with repeat on.
Use pixel jogger only, if you have keen accurate eyes, logical thinking and can differentiates actual PQ improvements. Otherwise you are wasting time and should just watch your tv normally.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406663/pixel-jogger-break-in-improves-pq-plasma-lcd-led-tv-for-diy-users-only-w-disclaimer

I have updated Pixel Jogger with 10minutes and 60fps 10min. versions:
See post #4, post #21: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1456693/do-lcd-leds-have-a-break-in-period-do-they-degrade-with-time/0_50

Suggestion is to run the normal 30fps 10min. mp4 version in repeat loop at least 24+hrs continuous with contrast=max and brightness=min., (use TV usb mediaplayer), intermittent just check/watch tv if you can see improvements changes.
After first 100+hrs intensive properly break in, the picture will be settle down and won't improve much, then use pixel jogger few minutes as warm up/intermitent breaks/cooling down as maintenance/IR prevention.
After 24 hrs 30fps pixel jogger, you can use the 60fps pixel jogger, 60fps will be the full maximum intensive jogging for the tv.

Watch samples with download links on youtube info section also:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kxu-chASGg 30fps 10min
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhV_kfjEZb0 60fps 10min

Download HD:
Pixel Jogger 30fps 10min.mp4
http://www.sendspace.com/file/nypxl6
Pixel Jogger 60fps 10min.mp4
http://www.sendspace.com/file/59unmj

Enjoy!

All plasma's have line bleed and won't go away totally, because of the phosphor traits, it was on the CRT also, as phosphor trailing.
Yes, It will be less noticeable with proper/even aging, there are few reasons:
1) Your contrast is set too high, the higher the contrast is more visible bleeding and blooming. So decrease the contrast.
2) Your eyes learn/adapt/ignore the line bleeds.
3) Phosphor reaching the treshold points: aging/settle down/saturation.
New phosphor has that soft/misty/foggy picture characteristic, this will improved/go away with the proper/even aging.
Pixel Jogger is the best/fastest/evenly method for this , soon you will see that the picture has no more that soft/misty/foggy layer but a clear/sharp/vibrant image and lesser noticeable linebleed.

It's very simple new phosphor can't handle the subtle/nuance gradations/shades/steps of colors properly yet.
Because those subtle steps will translate into course steps and has no subtle definitions yet, close steps of gradation will just be display as the same level of light, so all colors will be washed out= soft/misty/foggy picture.
After proper aging (could be around 1000+hrs of use) the saturated phosphor can now display the subtle/nuance gradations properly as picture will be sharp/defined etc.

Enjoy!
post #4088 of 5206
My 'fox soccer' logo has faded a bit more, so pretty happy with that, although I want it gone - even though it is not viewable without obsession on normal viewing. smile.gif

Question: Since the logo is still there(on a red and yellow slide), if I were to watch 'fox soccer' again, does it have a better chance of IR because that logo will be faintly there? Should I wait for it to completely evaporate before I watch that channel again?
post #4089 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_renely View Post

My 'fox soccer' logo has faded a bit more, so pretty happy with that, although I want it gone - even though it is not viewable without obsession on normal viewing. smile.gif

Question: Since the logo is still there(on a red and yellow slide), if I were to watch 'fox soccer' again, does it have a better chance of IR because that logo will be faintly there? Should I wait for it to completely evaporate before I watch that channel again?

Your question is valid and one that I was curious about also. I had some I/R from gaming from an earlier post. I was able to completely eliminate it by running slides and watching varied content (took about 3 days). I was very happy to know it was not 'burn in'. I recently bought a pair of 3D glasses to test my UT50 and the only 3D source I had was the PS3 call of duty game (the original source of the I/R). Curiosity got the best of me and I hooked it up to test the 3D. The I/R was back after one 10 minute game!!!!!!! I even lowered my contrast and brightness settings before playing 65/50. The I/R went away within just a few minutes of changing the source to TV which is great, but this unit seems to be highly suceptible to I/R. YMMV on your set. I am continuing to run the full screen break in slides and hoping that this panel settles down with more hours. If not, I will be forced to return it.
Edited by SkyNet14 - 3/8/13 at 1:37pm
post #4090 of 5206
Well I going to be buying my first Plasma in a few months with all this freaking out about iR on this thread scared me off. But to see its just a handful of people! I could be wrong but BB they cover there tvs if you buy there warranty plan and even Ir so if you are buy a tv for 1000 bucks too 4000 whats a could hundred more for that peace of mind of not worrying if i going to get IR and yes not everyone has a BB card or one near then. I know some people like to save buy buying online which i get i know. If it was not for BB warranty i still be on the fence for a plasma because PQ is number one too me!
post #4091 of 5206
My feeling is screen burn is not covered by warranty (nor are a couple of dead pixels)
post #4092 of 5206
Yes spell check lol my bad!
Edited by 77Rivers - 3/10/13 at 2:11pm
post #4093 of 5206
What does it say in the small print? What they say is covered and what is actually covered, and if they will except what you think is classed as "faulty" but to them "user negligence" or "within normal tolerances" is another thing. Personally screen burn is user negligence. Even if it's only after 10 minutes, they don't know that. Could have been playing games for 10 hours straight.
post #4094 of 5206
well i believe what you are saying. They did tell me around christmas they changed the warranty more for people. I was told they do cover it !
post #4095 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyNet14 View Post

Your question is valid and one that I was curious about also. I had some I/R from gaming from an earlier post. I was able to completely eliminate it by running slides and watching varied content (took about 3 days). I was very happy to know it was not 'burn in'. I recently bought a pair of 3D glasses to test my UT50 and the only 3D source I had was the PS3 call of duty game (the original source of the I/R). Curiosity got the best of me and I hooked it up to test the 3D. The I/R was back after one 10 minute game!!!!!!! I even lowered my contrast and brightness settings before playing 65/50. The I/R went away within just a few minutes of changing the source to TV which is great, but this unit seems to be highly suceptible to I/R. YMMV on your set. I am continuing to run the full screen break in slides and hoping that this panel settles down with more hours. If not, I will be forced to return it.

I have not watched that channel for over a week, unless zoomed, so the logo is not on the screen. I assume it will "aggravate" it...who knows.

I still have my IR/burn-in after a week. Pretty sure its only visible on colour slides - red and yellow), although sometimes I wonder if I see discoloration/darkness in that area. It has seemed to no longer be fading at a rate I can see. Hopefully after another week or so it will fade a bit more. I assume I will take a month or so.

My contrast it 30-40. Pretty low.

I rarely see any other IR, the one that most people talk about, which fades away shortly after . Just that one logo and the Panny 'Menu'.

Ser
Edited by ser_renely - 3/10/13 at 1:25pm
post #4096 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by 77Rivers View Post

I asked them that and they said yes they are covered! Weather there lying is a different story?

I doubt they'd lie about the weather there. Just be advised that csr's don't know everything, & anything they say ON THE PHONE is meaningless. Tell him to send you an email with that same info, and you might have a chance at an exemption, but as said it's ultimately what's in the fine print of the warranty that counts.
post #4097 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon! View Post

I doubt they'd lie about the weather there. Just be advised that csr's don't know everything, & anything they say ON THE PHONE is meaningless. Tell him to send you an email with that same info, and you might have a chance at an exemption, but as said it's ultimately what's in the fine print of the warranty that counts.

confused.gif
post #4098 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon! View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by 77Rivers View Post

I asked them that and they said yes they are covered! Weather there lying is a different story?

I doubt they'd lie about the weather there. Just be advised that csr's don't know everything, & anything they say ON THE PHONE is meaningless. Tell him to send you an email with that same info, and you might have a chance at an exemption, but as said it's ultimately what's in the fine print of the warranty that counts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon! View Post

I doubt they'd lie about the weather there. Just be advised that csr's don't know everything, & anything they say ON THE PHONE is meaningless. Tell him to send you an email with that same info, and you might have a chance at an exemption, but as said it's ultimately what's in the fine print of the warranty that counts.

confused.gif
People who watch too much TV (especially Plasma wink.gif ) tend to rely on the spell checker too much and not enough on proper grammar...
post #4099 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post


People who watch too much TV (especially Plasma wink.gif ) tend to rely on the spell checker too much and not enough on proper grammar...

Well, I don't think it's only because they watch too much TV. Some people just feel that because they are on the internet they have no reason to use proper grammar or write in a way that is coherent or easily understandable. It's easier to forgive in a text message, but I don't see what excuse you have when there's a fully functioning keyboard in front of you. rolleyes.gif
post #4100 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon! View Post

I doubt they'd lie about the weather there. Just be advised that csr's don't know everything, & anything they say ON THE PHONE is meaningless. Tell him to send you an email with that same info, and you might have a chance at an exemption, but as said it's ultimately what's in the fine print of the warranty that counts.

And because "user negligence" is pretty vague that can include screen burn, even if the rest of the T&C's don't exclude screenburn from warranty.
post #4101 of 5206
Well sorry for my bad spell type lol.. I will be buying a plasma St60 from best buy all i want to know is if there warranty cover IR or bad pixels?
post #4102 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by 77Rivers View Post

Well sorry for my bad spell type lol.. I will be buying a plasma St60 from best buy all i want to know is if there warranty cover IR or bad pixels?

From what I have read BB covers IR or burn-in if you purchase their additional coverage.
post #4103 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

From what I have read BB covers IR or burn-in if you purchase their additional coverage.

But is there "user negligence" in the T&C's? Which an engineer may class IR/SB as that.
post #4104 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbottom View Post

But is there "user negligence" in the T&C's? Which an engineer may class IR/SB as that.

I wouldn't know the specifics, but it does state they cover burn-in. It actually doesn't say if they cover IR or not.
post #4105 of 5206
Hello, I would like to share some of my experience with my 60ST50 ever since I purchased it 3 months ago.

I bought my TV in December 2012 with a build date in August. For the first 200 hours, I used the D-Nice's slides before using his custom settings. At the around the 250 hours mark I started to watch some full screen Blu-rays movies and mostly shows/movies on XBMC. If you are familiar with XMBC on the Apple TV, there's a small green X logo on the top left hand corner. Little that I know that the green X logo was there, I did not pay attention to it at all. So with D-Nice's settings I browsed through the XMBC and watch shows/movies for about two weeks. I then put up the colour slides and to surprise, there was a dark grey outline of the X from the XMBC logo. I tried everything from running the pixel flipper to running the WOW retail loop and watching normal TV and nothing would get the dark grey outline of the X to go away. Not right away at least.

For about 2 months, I only used the XMBC menu in zoom mode to avoid that bright green X logo and then switching to full-screen every time a movie/show starts. It was a pain, but it was the only way to lessen the IR. After about 3 months, I can barely see the green X, but it's still very faintly there.

In my observation, I believe that the IR was caused by repetitiveness(obviously) and high contrast settings. I was using D-Nice's settings with contrast at 76. With that said, I tried to see if I can get any IR with regular TV from those dreaded bright, coloured, and transparent logos using a lower contrast settings (standard mode).

Instead of using D-Nice's custom settings, I switched to standard picture mode (contrast 50) and watched cable TV with my HDPVR digital box for two weeks. At this point, I have probably close to 1000 hours(rough guess) on the TV since I purchased it. So after two weeks of watching regular TV with logos under standard mode, I put up the colour slides and to my surprise, I couldn't find one logo on my TV! I also wanted to add that I have pixel orbital on (if that really does anything). I do watch a lot of sports with static scoreboards.

So what I do to avoid any IR is to watch regular TV with standard mode and Blu-Ray movies using D-Nice's custom settings. Maybe I'm use to my TV by now, but I find that Standard mode looks really good when watching regular TV with my HDPVR (SA8300HD). As of now, I stop looking for IR and just enjoy my TV as much as possible.

Cheers,
post #4106 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by kasshern View Post

Hello, I would like to share some of my experience with my 60ST50 ever since I purchased it 3 months ago.

I bought my TV in December 2012 with a build date in August. For the first 200 hours, I used the D-Nice's slides before using his custom settings. At the around the 250 hours mark I started to watch some full screen Blu-rays movies and mostly shows/movies on XBMC. If you are familiar with XMBC on the Apple TV, there's a small green X logo on the top left hand corner. Little that I know that the green X logo was there, I did not pay attention to it at all. So with D-Nice's settings I browsed through the XMBC and watch shows/movies for about two weeks. I then put up the colour slides and to surprise, there was a dark grey outline of the X from the XMBC logo. I tried everything from running the pixel flipper to running the WOW retail loop and watching normal TV and nothing would get the dark grey outline of the X to go away. Not right away at least.

For about 2 months, I only used the XMBC menu in zoom mode to avoid that bright green X logo and then switching to full-screen every time a movie/show starts. It was a pain, but it was the only way to lessen the IR. After about 3 months, I can barely see the green X, but it's still very faintly there.

In my observation, I believe that the IR was caused by repetitiveness(obviously) and high contrast settings. I was using D-Nice's settings with contrast at 76. With that said, I tried to see if I can get any IR with regular TV from those dreaded bright, coloured, and transparent logos using a lower contrast settings (standard mode).

Instead of using D-Nice's custom settings, I switched to standard picture mode (contrast 50) and watched cable TV with my HDPVR digital box for two weeks. At this point, I have probably close to 1000 hours(rough guess) on the TV since I purchased it. So after two weeks of watching regular TV with logos under standard mode, I put up the colour slides and to my surprise, I couldn't find one logo on my TV! I also wanted to add that I have pixel orbital on (if that really does anything). I do watch a lot of sports with static scoreboards.

So what I do to avoid any IR is to watch regular TV with standard mode and Blu-Ray movies using D-Nice's custom settings. Maybe I'm use to my TV by now, but I find that Standard mode looks really good when watching regular TV with my HDPVR (SA8300HD). As of now, I stop looking for IR and just enjoy my TV as much as possible.

Cheers,

Thanks for the input.

3 months is a long time for IR. Do you think it is still fading?

Can you change the xbmc skin?
post #4107 of 5206
I do believe it's still fading and possibly gone by now. But it took a very long time to get rid the IR. After this experience, I would not dare to put that XMBC green X logo in the corner again with high contrast. I still have the XMBC menu zoomed in whenever I use it. It's my first plasma TV and I love the PQ and would not trade it for an LED even if I have to baby it a bit. It's worth the trade off to me.
post #4108 of 5206
Good to see its still fading. I think mine is still fading, but ever so slowly on slides.

I use xbmc on my HTPC, and have a relatively dark skin on it.

Yep, lots of babying, just a way of life for it I guess.
post #4109 of 5206
I forgot to mention that the IR from XBMC was in the Navi-X add-on. If you have that add-on, there's a bright green X in the top left corner. Just watch out for that static X.
post #4110 of 5206
I really wonder why it takes some people so long to get rid of IR. I suppose some while some TV's are more susceptible to getting IR, other TV's can be more susceptible to having IR that is difficult to remove. I completely screwed up two days ago, I forgot for a second that I have a plasma and can't actually just play and enjoy any game I like. rolleyes.gif By a second, I mean about 2-3 hours on a ridiculously bad image for the TV. I'm talking about a full screen of bright white lines practically, that never move(at high contrast to boot!). Needless to say, when I snapped out of it I immediately started panicking, I prepped a red slide and prepared to survey the damage. Now when I say I had IR, that's an understatement, I had a literal stamp of the entire game on the screen that was as clear as day. I switched to a TV station and sure enough I could see the entire thing very clearly. After cursing out the TV and myself for several minutes, I started my "IR treatment", which consists of blasting the screen with a music visualizer, on the Vivid setting, with color and contrast at max. After about 10-15 hours I couldn't recognize the full image anymore and almost all traces of IR had faded completely, a massive and somewhat shocking improvement.
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