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Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 144

post #4291 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

With you 100% the slides misused to the nth degree imo, have seen people freak out over uniformity issues they will never see in real world content, IR that they would never even know that was there and also running slides to get rid of IR which is not there intended purpose at all,

Since I'm still a newbie, can you guys point me to the said slides? And maybe sum up their purpose? Are they intended to help adjust the screen colors, saturation, hue, tint, picture fitment, etc.? Or just to show off the color potential of a TV?

I also tried not to have OCD about the screen and only noticed the IR image of the ESPN when I was watching the movie Prometheus a couple of days ago, where all the lights were out in my family room and the screen had a person's head laying on a pure white table and the logo caught my eye, otherwise I would not noticed it. Problem is, once I know it's there, everytime I watch the TV, my eyes keep going to that spot in hopes the IR is gone, I know it's a mental thing now b/c I know it's there but I'm human, so it bothers me now!
post #4292 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroMike View Post

Since I'm still a newbie, can you guys point me to the said slides? And maybe sum up their purpose? Are they intended to help adjust the screen colors, saturation, hue, tint, picture fitment, etc.? Or just to show off the color potential of a TV?

I also tried not to have OCD about the screen and only noticed the IR image of the ESPN when I was watching the movie Prometheus a couple of days ago, where all the lights were out in my family room and the screen had a person's head laying on a pure white table and the logo caught my eye, otherwise I would not noticed it. Problem is, once I know it's there, everytime I watch the TV, my eyes keep going to that spot in hopes the IR is gone, I know it's a mental thing now b/c I know it's there but I'm human, so it bothers me now!

The only legitmate purpose is to accumulate hours prior to calibrating imo, but that can be accomplished using varied content, they are really for use only in preparation for dnices calibration settings anything beyond that is either a placebo or some interpretation with no basis in fact
post #4293 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroMike View Post

Since I'm still a newbie, can you guys point me to the said slides? And maybe sum up their purpose? Are they intended to help adjust the screen colors, saturation, hue, tint, picture fitment, etc.? Or just to show off the color potential of a TV?

I also tried not to have OCD about the screen and only noticed the IR image of the ESPN when I was watching the movie Prometheus a couple of days ago, where all the lights were out in my family room and the screen had a person's head laying on a pure white table and the logo caught my eye, otherwise I would not noticed it. Problem is, once I know it's there, everytime I watch the TV, my eyes keep going to that spot in hopes the IR is gone, I know it's a mental thing now b/c I know it's there but I'm human, so it bothers me now!

Best thing you can do early on to avoid IR is to keep contrast low.
post #4294 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by connmen View Post

Best thing you can do early on to avoid IR is to keep contrast low.

Sound advice
post #4295 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroMike View Post

Since I'm still a newbie, can you guys point me to the said slides? And maybe sum up their purpose? Are they intended to help adjust the screen colors, saturation, hue, tint, picture fitment, etc.? Or just to show off the color potential of a TV?

I also tried not to have OCD about the screen and only noticed the IR image of the ESPN when I was watching the movie Prometheus a couple of days ago, where all the lights were out in my family room and the screen had a person's head laying on a pure white table and the logo caught my eye, otherwise I would not noticed it. Problem is, once I know it's there, everytime I watch the TV, my eyes keep going to that spot in hopes the IR is gone, I know it's a mental thing now b/c I know it's there but I'm human, so it bothers me now!

Below is the link to the D-Nice thread that has a link to the color slides. If you want to use the slides, I recommend downloading to a thumb drive and running from your TV's menu.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1232441/the-official-2010-panasonic-settings-issues-thread

I had planned on getting my panel professionally calibrated, which I did. So I used the slides on my panel right out of the box. In fact, I ran my panel 2 weeks w/o every shutting it down. Whenever I wasn't watching TV, the slides were running. My reasons for this; 1) To test for any issues within the return time frame and 2) My calibrator was coming within 3 weeks of my panel purchase.
post #4296 of 5206
Thank you all for the added info and the link!

The only thing I did for the first 100+ hours is tried not to stay on the same channel with a logo more than 10-15 min clips, I tried to stay on the 1080HD channels so that the screen showed full view w/o black bars and I kept the setting on THX Movie defualt (which is the darker setting) vs the THX (day/ brighter view setting).

I have another question on IR vs permanent Burn-In damage. Does the permanent damage leave in imprint in a different color, other then white? And from past experiences how many hours would one have to stay on the same screen imprint to get burn-in image, vs a temp IR?

At the time I bought the TV, Best Buy offered their extended warranty (which I did not buy), they were explaining that their warranty would cover IR repair and if the IR turns into a burns in, they would replace the TV but I don't know how true that is and did not bother to ask the fine print on the contract but always wondered what "their" repair would involve, using a Disney WOW disc or something else, if something else I would think someone on this forum would have the answer!?
post #4297 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda1169 View Post

Below is the link to the D-Nice thread that has a link to the color slides. If you want to use the slides, I recommend downloading to a thumb drive and running from your TV's menu.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1232441/the-official-2010-panasonic-settings-issues-thread

I had planned on getting my panel professionally calibrated, which I did. So I used the slides on my panel right out of the box. In fact, I ran my panel 2 weeks w/o every shutting it down. Whenever I wasn't watching TV, the slides were running. My reasons for this; 1) To test for any issues within the return time frame and 2) My calibrator was coming within 3 weeks of my panel purchase.

I'm always quite surprised @ the calibration settings that is posted around here to see contrast set so high on a plasma.
As noted above, IR is ultimately caused by contrast being dialed up too high.
post #4298 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

I'm always quite surprised @ the calibration settings that is posted around here to see contrast set so high on a plasma.
As noted above, IR is ultimately caused by contrast being dialed up too high.

High contrast is usually not an issue after the set is broken in. For example my DAY ISF mode contrast is at 100 yet no IR smile.gif
post #4299 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

High contrast is usually not an issue after the set is broken in. For example my DAY ISF mode contrast is at 100 yet no IR smile.gif


How was your set broken in? Just watching a variety of different programming or aging the phospors at the beginning?
post #4300 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

How was your set broken in? Just watching a variety of different programming or aging the phospors at the beginning?

Just watched normal content with THX Cinema default settings pixel orbiter on, ran slides in the evening just to get to the required hours for calibration quicker. I tried a diy cal at about 80 hours no ill effects from some long calibration sessions either
post #4301 of 5206
I have a question about the various tools available and their functions. I've read this thread until my eyes crossed and want to make sure I understand all the (sometimes conflicting) information.

There seem to be three types of tools for plasma screens: 1) pixel flippers, 2) slides, and 3) scroll bars (built-in to the set).

There seem to be three different uses for those tools: 1) breaking in a new set, 2) repairing existing IR, 3) IR prevention by refreshing the screen after watching letterbox or static content.

Are all three tools interchangeable for those uses, or is each tool better at certain tasks? For example, I've seen people suggest running one of the tools for a few minutes after watching a 2.35:1 film to help wash out the black bars. Would one be better than the other for that? Is it even necessary unless you watch many such films in a row?

With my new set I'm sticking to full screen viewing for now and I've lowered my contrast to 50 as someone suggested earlier in this thread. But I'm anxious to start watching some of my 2.35:1 movies, so to speed up the aging I'm also running the slides now and then so I can reach the magic 100 hour "safe" mark faster. Once I reach that mark, however, I still want to be safe and mix up the content as much as possible, but after examining my BD and DVD collection I'm amazed at how much of it is 2.35:1. I abhor zoomed or stretched content, so I'm struggling to find 1.85:1 content to watch as I break in the set.
post #4302 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedZeppelin View Post

I have a question about the various tools available and their functions. I've read this thread until my eyes crossed and want to make sure I understand all the (sometimes conflicting) information.

There seem to be three types of tools for plasma screens: 1) pixel flippers, 2) slides, and 3) scroll bars (built-in to the set).

There seem to be three different uses for those tools: 1) breaking in a new set, 2) repairing existing IR, 3) IR prevention by refreshing the screen after watching letterbox or static content.

Are all three tools interchangeable for those uses, or is each tool better at certain tasks? For example, I've seen people suggest running one of the tools for a few minutes after watching a 2.35:1 film to help wash out the black bars. Would one be better than the other for that? Is it even necessary unless you watch many such films in a row?

With my new set I'm sticking to full screen viewing for now and I've lowered my contrast to 50 as someone suggested earlier in this thread. But I'm anxious to start watching some of my 2.35:1 movies, so to speed up the aging I'm also running the slides now and then so I can reach the magic 100 hour "safe" mark faster. Once I reach that mark, however, I still want to be safe and mix up the content as much as possible, but after examining my BD and DVD collection I'm amazed at how much of it is 2.35:1. I abhor zoomed or stretched content, so I'm struggling to find 1.85:1 content to watch as I break in the set.

Slides/Normal Content-Break in
Pixel Flipper-Removing IR or possbily fixing a stuck pixel/IR Prevention
Scrolling BAR-IR Removal/IR Prevention

That's my 2 cents
post #4303 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroMike View Post

Thank you all for the added info and the link!

The only thing I did for the first 100+ hours is tried not to stay on the same channel with a logo more than 10-15 min clips, I tried to stay on the 1080HD channels so that the screen showed full view w/o black bars and I kept the setting on THX Movie defualt (which is the darker setting) vs the THX (day/ brighter view setting).

I have another question on IR vs permanent Burn-In damage. Does the permanent damage leave in imprint in a different color, other then white? And from past experiences how many hours would one have to stay on the same screen imprint to get burn-in image, vs a temp IR?

At the time I bought the TV, Best Buy offered their extended warranty (which I did not buy), they were explaining that their warranty would cover IR repair and if the IR turns into a burns in, they would replace the TV but I don't know how true that is and did not bother to ask the fine print on the contract but always wondered what "their" repair would involve, using a Disney WOW disc or something else, if something else I would think someone on this forum would have the answer!?

It sounds like you took it easy for the first 100 hours or so and that’s a good thing. From what I’ve read there’s always a big debate regarding IR vs burn-in. Persistant IR can look the same as a burned-in image. I believe, the difference is that IR will eventually begin to fade where as a burned-in image will not. Though some IR will take quite a long time to fade.

Most experts now will say that you truly need to abuse your panel to get burn-in. How long does it take…imo is up for debate and probably varies from panel to panel. I personally have witnessed the espn banner burn-in at my favorite sports bar, but the proprietor there has had the plasmas above the bar tuned to espn 15hrs a day for a few years now. I believe, that under normal usage new plasma panels are unlikely to get burn-in. I have the ST50 and as I’ve stated before, it has been fairly IR resistant. I watch a wide variety of programming including baseball, basketball, espn, letterbox movies and have increased my gaming to no ill effect. From reading the forums, it seems people have used the WOW pixel flipper with varying degrees of success.

There are a few on the forum that have used the BestBuy IR/Burn-in warranty program and hopefully they will chime in as well.
post #4304 of 5206
Thought I'd share my ST50 IR experiment now that the panel has over 2,000 hours. At 1,200 - 1,3000 hours I accidentally left Cartoon Network running for about 4 hours and had IR of the CN logo that could be seen during regular viewing on light backgrounds. After an overnight run of zoomed out content the logo cleared.

Since my work schedule was going to be very busy for the next 3 months, I decided to run the HDTV as much as I could to get it to 2,000 hours and then see what would happen if I duplicated the same mishap. I hit the 2,000 hour mark yesterday so when my alarm clock went off at 5:00 AM central time this morning I turned on CN full screen and went back to bed. The 1st check was a little after 8:00 AM during a commercial break and again at 10:00 (lost track of time so 1 extra hour) but this time with the picture zoomed to remove the logo.

The end result? At 8:00 I could not detect any IR from the logo during regular viewing from the couch. However, at 10:00 I was able to see an IR of the CN logo, although to my eyes it seemed a little less distinct as I really had to stare closely at the logo area for awhile before spotting the CN logo IR, certainly not the case last time. Now I'm just running logo free animation (my preferred method to clear IR) to find out how long it will take the IR to clear. The plan is to check every hour until I can't find it. I will post once that occurs.

Edit 1 (6:45 PM): I can no longer see the CN logo IR. Watched for about 10 minutes and couldn't spot it on any light, solid backgrounds. Previous check was at 6:00 so for 5 hours of viewing CN it took approximately 8 1/2 hours to clear. Not what I was hoping for as far as removal time goes and has me wondering how I'm going to watch regular TV safely on this panel if it takes almost 1/2 a day to wipe out previous visible logo IR. While I do mix up content, CN is a popular choice so it will see more watching than other channels. So weird that this panel gets far more severe, long duration IR than my 800U. Maybe that type of visible IR is normal but I've never had It on my 800U, even in it's early days. Should I be concerned about how long it took to clead or does that seem normal?
Edited by Jeremyd5 - 6/2/13 at 6:43am
post #4305 of 5206
Hey everyone. This is my first post on the forum. I found this place by doing google searches for IR fixes.

I just bought my first plasma a few weeks ago. 50'' Panasonic u50, which I believe is a 2012 model. Gamed a bit too much Dark Souls (about 30 hours over a 1 week period, while only watching 20-30 hours of full-screen movies/TV during the same week) with the contrast at 90 and I've got some persistent Image Retention. It's been there for 5 days now and hasn't really faded much at all.

I've read a lot of posts now about people talking about fixes for this, ranging from using the color slides, to a black background with the scrolling white bar, to a full white screen for a couple days straight, to using that black/white static fuzz, or just watching more full-screen TV.

Something I'm curious about is how many people have actually used any of these successfully? I've seen like a hundred people now saying these are the ''fixes,'' but few people actually saying they successfully cleared IR that wasn't going away after watching normal TV.

I found the post about some apparently more knowledgeable fellow outlining the differences between 3 different kinds of IR and Burn-in, and judging from his explanation it seems like mine is most likely MgO Sputtering, and his suggested fix is a full-screen white background for 24-100 hours. So my question is this - has anyone actually used a full-screen white image for 24+ hours to cure IR that wasn't going away after several days of normal TV viewing? Can doing a full-screen white image for that long potentially damage my TV?

Thanks!
post #4306 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oimagination View Post

Hey everyone. This is my first post on the forum. I found this place by doing google searches for IR fixes.

I just bought my first plasma a few weeks ago. 50'' Panasonic u50, which I believe is a 2012 model. Gamed a bit too much Dark Souls (about 30 hours over a 1 week period, while only watching 20-30 hours of full-screen movies/TV during the same week) with the contrast at 90 and I've got some persistent Image Retention. It's been there for 5 days now and hasn't really faded much at all.

I've read a lot of posts now about people talking about fixes for this, ranging from using the color slides, to a black background with the scrolling white bar, to a full white screen for a couple days straight, to using that black/white static fuzz, or just watching more full-screen TV.

Something I'm curious about is how many people have actually used any of these successfully? I've seen like a hundred people now saying these are the ''fixes,'' but few people actually saying they successfully cleared IR that wasn't going away after watching normal TV.

I found the post about some apparently more knowledgeable fellow outlining the differences between 3 different kinds of IR and Burn-in, and judging from his explanation it seems like mine is most likely MgO Sputtering, and his suggested fix is a full-screen white background for 24-100 hours. So my question is this - has anyone actually used a full-screen white image for 24+ hours to cure IR that wasn't going away after several days of normal TV viewing? Can doing a full-screen white image for that long potentially damage my TV?

Thanks!
Buy the Disney WOW blu ray disc. It has a pixel flipper. You might need to run it overnight from days to weeks depending how bad it is but if something is going to get it out, that will. Turn contrast all the way up when you run it. The disc is about $20 on Amazon and it will also assist in calibrating your TV.
post #4307 of 5206
OK I might try that WOW disc. Thanks.

Something interesting with the IR on my plasma is that I'm sure part of it is located 1-2 inches above the HUD display in Dark Souls. Most of it is clearly from the game... but there's one strip an inch or two higher which makes me wonder how it got there. But the coloring and everything looks exactly like the other parts of the IR so I don't think it's a damaged part of the screen or anything like that.
post #4308 of 5206
IR discovered and wasnt even trying to find it... the good news is that I have to do very specific things to see it, the bad news is that it is VERY bad under those conditions.. With that said, I am not even a litle upset.

The way I found it was by messing with Dnice's slides, I wasnt running them, I was using the tv as my computer display, I was looking through some of the pics I had in the downloads folder and they came up. when I got to the red slide I saw as very noticable (from 15' away) logo in the bottom right, I watch a lot of PBS, in this case I was watching the "Create" shows(the word is bright white with red symbol). I had the word create (the word not the symbol) was very clear. The interesting thing is that I could only see it on the red slide, and I could make it worse or better if I put the red slide in a window and reszed it (made smaller) over the area. On full screen I can see it pretty clear, if I resize the window to 25% or so over the logo I can read it like it was on that channel (sorta).

After this I looked for more and I found a few other areas less noticable from netflix or amazon instant ( I use Roku instead of built in) I ran the pixel shifter over night and it got rid of a lot of it but it was still there.

So.... I do have this issue and it is very obvious if you are under the right conditions..

I should also mention that if I make the red slide different sizes the IR is more or mess noticible, this is because the pannel gets brighter if you make the bright image smaller, there is a sweet spot between dim and light, this is where I do not see it..

I can not see this "Create" IR on the white or gray slides, it is not there under the blue but there is another IR image that is less noticable, the green has very slight IR but I only see it if I put the green slide in a window and make it 80% of full screen.

So, I guess this IR is or can be an issue if you worry about these things, I personally dont care because I never see it on regular content, and when I do see it its not distracting.

For the record, I have the 60ST60. I have it set using Cnets settings, all CATS/ECO settings off, COntrast at 83 brightness at 0. I ran Dnice slides for over 100 hours, I have had the TV for a month and a half.

PS, the IR is so strong that I can get a clear picture of it..(the WOW disk makes it fade though..
post #4309 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heywould View Post

PS, the IR is so strong that I can get a clear picture of it..(the WOW disk makes it fade though..

If the WOW disk is helping, you could run that regularly to help remove an nuisance IR.
post #4310 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda1169 View Post

If the WOW disk is helping, you could run that regularly to help remove an nuisance IR.

Yeah, I have run it two nights in a row, it did fade, but the red slide test still shows the Create IR, I think it will quite a bit of time to get rid of it all.. I will keep running it over the next few weeks at night to see what happens,,

As I said, i'm not overly worried about it, I never watch anything that has an all red background so I wont see it when using the TV as intended..

I was mainly commenting on it to let everyone know what I was seeing on my version of the TV. There has been a lot of talk about it being worse or better on different pannels, I suspect its about the same on all, its only that you need to create the right conditions to make the IR visible, this is dependent on what you watch to get the IR.. For example, if the logo on one persons TV is from a RED or BLUE icon the IR will be more visible under different conditions than someone that has IR From a white logo..

This is just my opinion, but since I absolutly can not see the IR under white or gray slides, but its very visible with the red slide, I have a feeling I may be correct. (If not, then at least its in the right direction)
post #4311 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremyd5 View Post

Edit 1 (6:45 PM): I can no longer see the CN logo IR. Watched for about 10 minutes and couldn't spot it on any light, solid backgrounds. Previous check was at 6:00 so for 5 hours of viewing CN it took approximately 8 1/2 hours to clear. Not what I was hoping for as far as removal time goes and has me wondering how I'm going to watch regular TV safely on this panel if it takes almost 1/2 a day to wipe out previous visible logo IR. While I do mix up content, CN is a popular choice so it will see more watching than other channels. So weird that this panel gets far more severe, long duration IR than my 800U. Maybe that type of visible IR is normal but I've never had It on my 800U, even in it's early days. Should I be concerned about how long it took to clead or does that seem normal?

Thanks for this post. It’s good to hear a long-term report. I have an ST50 as well and it sounds from your experience that burn-in is not an issue but that persistent IR can plague this panel. It may be that the WOW pixel flipper is needed from time to time to deal with IR. This is a great panel so I can with this. Thanks again for your post.
post #4312 of 5206
I've got some IR on my ST30 from The History channel logo I want to get rid of before I sell it. I was looking on Amazon and it appears there are at least two versions of the Disney Wow: does the cheaper version still have the pixel flipper? It sounds like this is working pretty well for people.
post #4313 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

I've got some IR on my ST30 from The History channel logo I want to get rid of before I sell it. I was looking on Amazon and it appears there are at least two versions of the Disney Wow: does the cheaper version still have the pixel flipper? It sounds like this is working pretty well for people.

Yes, the one disk version does have the pixel flipper..
post #4314 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda1169 View Post

Thanks for this post. It’s good to hear a long-term report. I have an ST50 as well and it sounds from your experience that burn-in is not an issue but that persistent IR can plague this panel. It may be that the WOW pixel flipper is needed from time to time to deal with IR. This is a great panel so I can with this. Thanks again for your post.

No problem. This test also alleviated my concerns about longer single sessions (accidental or intentional). However, I'm still trying to decide if the panel's penchant for stubborn IR will eventually cause problems with repeated watching of a TV channel over time even if I make sure to mix up content so that the IR can clear each time, which, while annoying given how long it takes, is something I'm willing to do to preserve the beautiful PQ.
post #4315 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

I'm always quite surprised @ the calibration settings that is posted around here to see contrast set so high on a plasma.
As noted above, IR is ultimately caused by contrast being dialed up too high.

Those settings are for running slides only not for normal TV viewing. My calibrated TV settings have contrast set lower, 80 or 82 I believe for my ST50.
post #4316 of 5206
I only have about probably 30-40 hours on my ST60 but when watching movies on HBO and stuff I use cadets settings that has contrast at 83 and when watching anything with a logo I use cadets settings but with the contrast at like 50-60. Haven't watched any shows for too long with any logos but have messed around in the menus quite a bit fiddling with stuff and have had zero IR so far. Hope it stays that way. Even still, I have the WoW disk in case of stubborn IR.
post #4317 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

The only legitmate purpose is to accumulate hours prior to calibrating imo, but that can be accomplished using varied content, they are really for use only in preparation for dnices calibration settings anything beyond that is either a placebo or some interpretation with no basis in fact

Given that, what is the best way to age a panel to the point where it's safe to watch pillar-boxed and letter-boxed content? The majority of my TV usage is watching movies, and at least 65% of those movies are in Academy, 1.66:1 or 2.35:1. I don't have enough full-screen content that I really want to watch right now to go through 100 hours of it (although I have plenty of 1.66:1 movies, which has the slimmest bars), so the safest bet seemed to be to age the phosphors with slides when I'm not watching it. If it won't make a difference, I can just turn my TV off when I'm not watching it and watch whatever I want, regardless of aspect ratio.

If IR proves to be a problem with pillar-boxing and letter-boxing, I'll have to return my TV (50PS64) and look for another solution, but I was under the impression that it was advisable to age it.
post #4318 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsps View Post

Given that, what is the best way to age a panel to the point where it's safe to watch pillar-boxed and letter-boxed content? The majority of my TV usage is watching movies, and at least 65% of those movies are in Academy, 1.66:1 or 2.35:1. I don't have enough full-screen content that I really want to watch right now to go through 100 hours of it (although I have plenty of 1.66:1 movies, which has the slimmest bars), so the safest bet seemed to be to age the phosphors with slides when I'm not watching it. If it won't make a difference, I can just turn my TV off when I'm not watching it and watch whatever I want, regardless of aspect ratio.

If IR proves to be a problem with pillar-boxing and letter-boxing, I'll have to return my TV (50PS64) and look for another solution, but I was under the impression that it was advisable to age it.

I'm in the same position as you. Most of my Blu-rays are 2.40 or 2.35:1. On one hand, people will say "Slides are a waste of time," but then turn around and say "just don't watch anything with black bars for the first 100 hours." They'll tell you to zoom or stretch your content so it's full screen, but I can't stand watching movies that way, so to be on the safe side I'm running the slides a few hours a day when I'm not watching TV to put some additional hours on it. And when I'm watching TV (full screen content, of course) I'm dialing down the contrast a bit for now.

I know slides don't prevent IR or burn-in, but everyone says those problems are more likely to occur in the first 100 hours, so the faster I get 100 hours on the set the faster I can use it how I want to.

Once I hit 100 hours I'll still probably run the slides or the scroll bar for a few minutes after watching letterboxed content, at least for a while.

I've read enough testimonials here from plasma owners who run a lot of letterbox content without long term problems, so I'm not scared to keep the set.
Edited by RedZeppelin - 6/5/13 at 6:11am
post #4319 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedZeppelin View Post

I'm in the same position as you. Most of my Blu-rays are 2.40 or 2.35:1. On one hand, people will say "Slides are a waste of time," but then turn around and say "just don't watch anything with black bars for the first 100 hours." They'll tell you to zoom or stretch your content so it's full screen, but I can't stand watching movies that way, so to be on the safe side I'm running the slides a few hours a day when I'm not watching TV to put some additional hours on it. And when I'm watching TV (full screen content, of course) I'm dialing down the contrast a bit for now.

I know slides don't prevent IR or burn-in, but everyone says those problems are more likely to occur in the first 100 hours, so the faster I get 100 hours on the set the faster I can use it how I want to.

Once I hit 100 hours I'll still probably run the slides or the scroll bar for a few minutes after watching letterboxed content, at least for a while.

I've read enough testimonials here from plasma owners who run a lot of letterbox content without long term problems, so I'm not scared to keep the set.

You can watch whatever you want the first 100 hours just mix it up another myth that has perpetuated itself here unfortunately
post #4320 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

You can watch whatever you want the first 100 hours just mix it up another myth that has perpetuated itself here unfortunately

Agreed. Feel free to watch whatever you like and enjoy your panel. I watch a lot of blu rays and letterbox movies via fios and have not had a problem. Also running slides does little to remove IR and that is not their purpose. If you get IR from letterbox movies, which I doubt you will, most people have had success in removing it with the use of a pixel flipper or plain old TV static.
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