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Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 147

post #4381 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by henry77 View Post

My IR is only noticeable when the screen is displaying very light or white colors...For example when I sign onto the Xbox Live dash board you can notice it...I have been using tbe scroll bar and leaving my TV on movies during the day. Now doing this did help a little but didn't remove the IR.

Many have used the scroll bar but it quickly times out. Mine is on a 15 minute timer. The WOW pixel flipper will run unitl you stop it so that is my IR removal tool of choice. Try the WOW pixel flipper and run it for a night or two. Some people have need several days usage of the pixel flipper it all depends on the severity of IR. My personal usage is varied though.
post #4382 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda1169 View Post

Many have used the scroll bar but it quickly times out. Mine is on a 15 minute timer.

Depends on the TV. The 2013 Panasonics (S60 and ST60 anyway, and I presume the rest) run forever.
Quote:
The WOW pixel flipper will run unitl you stop it so that is my IR removal tool of choice. Try the WOW pixel flipper and run it for a night or two. Some people have need several days usage of the pixel flipper it all depends on the severity of IR. My personal usage is varied though.

Depends on the BD player. The 2013 Sonys (BDP-S5100 anyway, and I presume the rest) time out after 30 minutes or so.

If you can hook up a PC, this message describes how to get a Pixel Flipper equivalent for free:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1450585/official-sony-bdp-s1100-bdp-s3100-and-bdp-s5100/720#post_23394469
post #4383 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by henry77 View Post

My IR is only noticeable when the screen is displaying very light or white colors...For example when I sign onto the Xbox Live dash board you can notice it...I have been using tbe scroll bar and leaving my TV on movies during the day. Now doing this did help a little but didn't remove the IR.

Depending on how long the IR has been forming it could take quite a long time to remove (my calculation is about 2-3 hours for every 1 hour of static image exposure, so if the IR formed from 20 hours of exposure it could take 40-60 hours of normal content to completely erase... I've never allowed IR to get that severe so I can't say if the numbers actually scale up linearly though). I have seen reports of this type of IR essentially becoming permanent, though that's usually a case where the user has put 100's of hours in on a logo channel. This is why I'm trying to recommend to people that they get into doing a regular anti-IR routine before they get something extremely persistent (or worse). If it's getting less severe I'd say there's a really good chance it will eventually go away entirely. And if you can't spot it on real content I'd say it's already in the "don't worry about it" range.

Just want to post this again since there was a mention of the 15 minute limit on the XX50 scrolling bar. This is a 4 minute loop of a nearly identical scrolling bar that I use for IR cleaning on my GT50. If you play it from a USB drive it will loop indefinitely as long as "repeat playback" is on (press the OPTION button when in the video file list). It's likely to be better than the pixel flipper because it uses full white and doesn't significantly trigger ABL. I made it 4 minutes because the video player on the TV will pause for a couple seconds and display the filename each time it starts over. At 4 minutes that brief interruption is so insignificant that it can't possibly impact the wipe process.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/45455626/srollingbar4min.zip
if you don't want a zip for some reason (right click, save as):
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/45455626/srollingbar4min.mpg
Edited by headlesschickens - 6/15/13 at 8:41am
post #4384 of 5206
I agree with headlesschickens, getting into an IR removal routine is helpful.
post #4385 of 5206
I just purchased a Panasonic s60 and it's my first plasma. I'm pretty scared about IR/burn in due to gaming because I tend to enjoy the owner mode of sports games as much as the actual game play.

Is there anyway to avoid it? I play a lot of NHL 13. I'm not seeing anything online about that particular game causing issues...is there anything I can do to avoid IR or should I hope for the best?

I'm much more nervous for when Madden comes out in August since I LOVE owner mode in that game.

I do love it so far though! Should I run that white bar after game play?

Thanks!
post #4386 of 5206
Drop your contrast down while gaming and then it probably wouldn't hurt to use the white bar after gaming, could just watch full screen movies and what not as well. I wouldn't game for like 5 hours straight with sports games, but you should be fine overall. You very well may see some IR but it will fade. Its so hard to get permanent burn-in nowadays. The main thing is just enjoy your tv and don't go out of your way looking for IR and obsessing over it otherwise you will drive yourself crazy.
post #4387 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

Depending on how long the IR has been forming it could take quite a long time to remove (my calculation is about 2-3 hours for every 1 hour of static image exposure, so if the IR formed from 20 hours of exposure it could take 40-60 hours of normal content to completely erase... I've never allowed IR to get that severe so I can't say if the numbers actually scale up linearly though). I have seen reports of this type of IR essentially becoming permanent, though that's usually a case where the user has put 100's of hours in on a logo channel. This is why I'm trying to recommend to people that they get into doing a regular anti-IR routine before they get something extremely persistent (or worse). If it's getting less severe I'd say there's a really good chance it will eventually go away entirely. And if you can't spot it on real content I'd say it's already in the "don't worry about it" range.

Just want to post this again since there was a mention of the 15 minute limit on the XX50 scrolling bar. This is a 4 minute loop of a nearly identical scrolling bar that I use for IR cleaning on my GT50. If you play it from a USB drive it will loop indefinitely as long as "repeat playback" is on (press the OPTION button when in the video file list). It's likely to be better than the pixel flipper because it uses full white and doesn't significantly trigger ABL. I made it 4 minutes because the video player on the TV will pause for a couple seconds and display the filename each time it starts over. At 4 minutes that brief interruption is so insignificant that it can't possibly impact the wipe process.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/45455626/srollingbar4min.zip
if you don't want a zip for some reason (right click, save as):
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/45455626/srollingbar4min.mpg

Thanks for the video file, working on my VT50. But, I'm finding an ODD visual. There looks to be some IR on the bottom left, when the white part of the scrolling screen is there, BUT I don't see this when playing any of my simular white screens slides from the same USB stick. I would assume that regardless of a still frame or video file, any IR "images" would be the same and appear, if IR is present on the display? I don't know how you created the video MPG file, though I doubt you creation would or could include any IR from your own display, so I'm wondering what I'm seeing here? Thanks.
post #4388 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post

Thanks for the video file, working on my VT50. But, I'm finding an ODD visual. There looks to be some IR on the bottom left, when the white part of the scrolling screen is there, BUT I don't see this when playing any of my simular white screens slides from the same USB stick. I would assume that regardless of a still frame or video file, any IR "images" would be the same and appear, if IR is present on the display? I don't know how you created the video MPG file, though I doubt you creation would or could include any IR from your own display, so I'm wondering what I'm seeing here? Thanks.
Telling is what exactly you are seeing might help. If it just looks like little dark spots all over or like black dirt that is normal and I have seen that while running screen wipes on other plasma's.
post #4389 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

Telling is what exactly you are seeing might help. If it just looks like little dark spots all over or like black dirt that is normal and I have seen that while running screen wipes on other plasma's.

No, I'm seeing IR, some light "grey" text" as well as a "play icon" in the middle of the screen. I just ran the VT50's own 15 minute scroller bars, and don't see anything. So, at this point until we here from the author, I suspect he somehow made this video off his own screen, which included his own IR. The video file is certainly darker then the built-in scroller which also has a higher contrast ratio, so I don't believe it would be as effective, even though you can loop it. It's a great idea, but I think it would have to be created properly in a video editing app with proper IRE files, etc. and would be a bit of work. I don't have a computer directly connected to my display so the other work arounds for pixel scrollers is not an option, then again, so far I don't have any IR issues here.
post #4390 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post

No, I'm seeing IR, some light "grey" text" as well as a "play icon" in the middle of the screen. I just ran the VT50's own 15 minute scroller bars, and don't see anything. So, at this point until we here from the author, I suspect he somehow made this video off his own screen, which included his own IR.

That would only be possible if he filmed it, which would be an odd thing to do. As for IR showing up more or less well against various patterns and colors, that's perfectly normal. When I got IR from EPSN's scoreboard during the recent LSU baseball awesomeness, it showed up best against some flashing white bars in the Spears and Munsil 1st ed Contrast pattern. It didn't show up as well on a solid white background. Other IR I've had showed up best on RGB(0,128,0) and not at all on various other solid colors.
post #4391 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

That would only be possible if he filmed it, which would be an odd thing to do. As for IR showing up more or less well against various patterns and colors, that's perfectly normal. When I got IR from EPSN's scoreboard during the recent LSU baseball awesomeness, it showed up best against some flashing white bars in the Spears and Munsil 1st ed Contrast pattern. It didn't show up as well on a solid white background. Other IR I've had showed up best on RGB(0,128,0) and not at all on various other solid colors.

Anything is possible I guess. I'm sure "headless" will respond. He may have been able to get a video feed out of his display, only he can tell us how he created the video file, or maybe someone can actually run it from a USB stick on a VT50, and look closely. I have a lot of colored slides here, and looking at all of them, don't see any "text" or "play icon" on any screen I can display, so I find it's ODD. Not seeing any IR with the Pany scroller, this custom made scroller is actually playing back a video file, so what one sees on the screen would therefore be a combination of what your display is "displaying", like IR if your set has it, as well as the content of the actual file. The built-in scroller I would assume is a "program", not a video file, and therefore should only be showing what is on the actual display. This is the logic I'm using for now, until I here a better theory. The only IR I see on my display, is when running this video file, and I don't have anything I run here that has a "play icon" in the middle of my screen, that would create IR, the text on the lower left, is a place that normally the "dark" Panasonic remote tips/icons show, for a few seconds, and the text I see does not match any of the Pany screens. Good mystery so far.
post #4392 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post

Anything is possible I guess. I'm sure "headless" will respond. He may have been able to get a video feed out of his display, only he can tell us how he created the video file, or maybe someone can actually run it from a USB stick on a VT50, and look closely. I have a lot of colored slides here, and looking at all of them, don't see any "text" or "play icon" on any screen I can display, so I find it's ODD. Not seeing any IR with the Pany scroller, this custom made scroller is actually playing back a video file, so what one sees on the screen would therefore be a combination of what your display is "displaying", like IR if your set has it, as well as the content of the actual file. The built-in scroller I would assume is a "program", not a video file, and therefore should only be showing what is on the actual display. This is the logic I'm using for now, until I here a better theory. The only IR I see on my display, is when running this video file, and I don't have anything I run here that has a "play icon" in the middle of my screen, that would create IR, the text on the lower left, is a place that normally the "dark" Panasonic remote tips/icons show, for a few seconds, and the text I see does not match any of the Pany screens. Good mystery so far.

I can't imagine how it could be possible that there's specific detail like that in the file... the scrolling bar was created in 3D Studio using infinitely dark and light materials to create the black/white. There could be some MPEG noise in the encoding but the compression shouldn't really have trouble with solid black and white. The only distortions I'm seeing when I run it on my TV are my usual vertical DSE patterns. The only significant difference I can detect between the original and this version is that the built-in scrolling bar uses the "vivid" mode, while I use Custom at a high contrast.

The video definitely isn't darker by the way. The reason it might seem that way is because, as I said, the scrolling bar uses vivid mode. Even compared to Custom at 100 contrast that will seem brighter because of vivid's cool temperature and slightly different driving method. Either way the bar is big enough that it does begin to trigger ABL, so it's impossible for it to be any brighter without being smaller. I tried to replicate the size (and therefore ABL level) of the original as closely as I could, assuming that the engineers had already determined the optimal setup for the IR wipe.

*Edit: Just want to say that I've confirmed that the video does include only full white and full black. Feel free to examine individual frames yourself if you don't believe me.
Edited by headlesschickens - 6/15/13 at 10:58pm
post #4393 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

I can't imagine how it could be possible that there's specific detail like that in the file... the scrolling bar was created in 3D Studio using infinitely dark and light materials to create the black/white. There could be some MPEG noise in the encoding but the compression shouldn't really have trouble with solid black and white. The only distortions I'm seeing when I run it on my TV are my usual vertical DSE patterns. The only significant difference I can detect between the original and this version is that the built-in scrolling bar uses the "vivid" mode, while I use Custom at a high contrast.

The video definitely isn't darker by the way. The reason it might seem that way is because, as I said, the scrolling bar uses vivid mode. Even compared to Custom at 100 contrast that will seem brighter because of vivid's cool temperature and slightly different driving method. Either way the bar is big enough that it does begin to trigger ABL, so it's impossible for it to be any brighter without being smaller. I tried to replicate the size (and therefore ABL level) of the original as closely as I could, assuming that the engineers had already determined the optimal setup for the IR wipe.

*Edit: Just want to say that I've confirmed that the video does include only full white and full black. Feel free to examine individual frames yourself if you don't believe me.

Thanks for the response. I did NOT know the built-in scroller bars used "Vivid" mode, so that's why your video file appeared darker, I will change modes when running your file to "Vivid", from my normal custom D-Nice mode. I'm not sure if you mentioned that in the first post where when you announced your upload?

Also, thanks for the info on how you created the file, obviously you could not have picked up IR in 3D studio, so I have a true mystery here. While the IR stuff I can see when running your file, is not disturbing me, NOT knowing why I can't see it in any other test materials I have at hand, which are the original D-Nice "break-in slides" as well as some other colored/grey/white JPEGS, a decent set of graded materials, from very light to dark, I would think I would be able to see some trace of the same IR I see when running your video. Now that you have informed me of the VIVID mode being used on the "Pany Scroller", that might account for NOT seeing this IR stuff, as in that torch mode, it most likely washes out the evidence, the IR stuff I'm talking about is, very faint, but still noticeable to my now older eyes, even from 10 feet, so it is visible. So, if we rule out, any IR being present in your video, and I certainly believe you and the technique you used, then I am at a loss to explain why I can't duplicate seeing it any other way. It's not going to kill me, though like most here, love to eventually solve "mysteries" when possible. My next move will be to try the S&M v.2 Blue Ray test disk, I bought but have not had time to get into. I'll see what screen patterns are on there. Anyways, THANKS for the video creation, and your followup, I didn't write to cast dispersion on your work, just reporting what I am seeing here, which sure is ODD. smile.gif

TO ADD: I can't look at individual frames as when running from a USB stick, the Pany does not allow me to put the video in pause mode, which I thought was odd. And on my Mac, in both QuickTime 7 and QuickTime 10, the video file only shows me a black screen, which confused me as well, as QT should not have an issue displaying an "MPG" file. I'll have to try some other software here, maybe VLC.
Edited by Mactavish - 6/16/13 at 12:01am
post #4394 of 5206
I ran the video file using VLC on my PC to see if I could see anything. I paused the video as the white bar was on the left side of the screen. After close observation I see no indications of IR but have determined I have a fairly dirty monitor screen. I will try it on my UT50 later.
post #4395 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post

Thanks for the response. I did NOT know the built-in scroller bars used "Vivid" mode, so that's why your video file appeared darker, I will change modes when running your file to "Vivid", from my normal custom D-Nice mode. I'm not sure if you mentioned that in the first post where when you announced your upload?

You're right, I did forget to mention that. I'm not sure if you actually need to run it in vivid mode (Custom at 100 contrast might be just as bright and seem darker because it's less blue), but this is another case where I'm going to assume the engineers set it up the way they did for a reason.
Quote:
Also, thanks for the info on how you created the file, obviously you could not have picked up IR in 3D studio, so I have a true mystery here. While the IR stuff I can see when running your file, is not disturbing me, NOT knowing why I can't see it in any other test materials I have at hand, which are the original D-Nice "break-in slides" as well as some other colored/grey/white JPEGS, a decent set of graded materials, from very light to dark, I would think I would be able to see some trace of the same IR I see when running your video. Now that you have informed me of the VIVID mode being used on the "Pany Scroller", that might account for NOT seeing this IR stuff, as in that torch mode, it most likely washes out the evidence, the IR stuff I'm talking about is, very faint, but still noticeable to my now older eyes, even from 10 feet, so it is visible. So, if we rule out, any IR being present in your video, and I certainly believe you and the technique you used, then I am at a loss to explain why I can't duplicate seeing it any other way. It's not going to kill me, though like most here, love to eventually solve "mysteries" when possible. My next move will be to try the S&M v.2 Blue Ray test disk, I bought but have not had time to get into. I'll see what screen patterns are on there. Anyways, THANKS for the video creation, and your followup, I didn't write to cast dispersion on your work, just reporting what I am seeing here, which sure is ODD. smile.gif

Totally understand, I'd be doing the same thing if I'd downloaded someone else's video. I've actually had a few mystery IR cases myself, and one of the things I've learned is that different kinds of IR may only show up under very specific circumstances. Really severe IR will show up almost anywhere, but the more minor kinds may only appear against very specific colors and brightness levels. My first guess would be that someone else has been using the TV when you're not around (that play button in the middle makes me think YouTube videos or something like that), but obviously you know whether that's even a possibility. I suppose it's also possible that you have some really oddly specific DSE... a few of my DSE patterns almost look like they could be residual imprints of text. Of course if you can read the text or the triangle is really sharply defined that's unlikely. Whatever caused it, hopefully it'll fade out completely since it's so subtle already.
Quote:
TO ADD: I can't look at individual frames as when running from a USB stick, the Pany does not allow me to put the video in pause mode, which I thought was odd. And on my Mac, in both QuickTime 7 and QuickTime 10, the video file only shows me a black screen, which confused me as well, as QT should not have an issue displaying an "MPG" file. I'll have to try some other software here, maybe VLC.

I had more trouble than I expected getting a video file that would play on the built-in video player. The original H.264 version I created, which worked great on every computer player I tried (QuickTime, WMP, VLC), wouldn't play from the Media Player. The only version that ended up working was done with an MPEG-2 encoder, however it also produced a video that you can't pause or FF/RW, and that some video players can't handle. I probably need to get some better conversion software and see if I can make an H.264 version that will actually play... The resulting file is way smaller and causes less trouble with common video software. Anyway, I know it works with VLC and I did get it to load with the QT plugin from Safari (just clicked the MPG download link and it opened in a player plugin window).
post #4396 of 5206
Thanks again, well we know it's not the video file, so I'll just search for some "light" content to track my IR down.

JUST A NOTE: I was able to view the video in VLC, but I tried clicking the link in Safari 5.1.9, and just get the same black window I see in both my versions of QuickTime, I do have Perian 1.2.3 installed as well as FlipForMac WMV safari plug-in, but that's for Windows Media movies to play in Safari. If you end up being able to create an H264 "MP4" version, and want someone to test it remotely, let me know. THANKS!

As I'm sure you are aware, from page 111 of the VT50 manual:

Media player Data information - Compatible Data format:

SD-Video files (SD-Video Standard Ver.1.31) Modified data with a PC may not be displayed correctly.
AVCHD files AVCHD Standard Ver.2.0 (AVCHD 3D, AVCHD Progressive) Modified data with a PC may not be displayed correctly.
MotionJPEG files (taken with LUMIX)*
MP4 files Video codec H.264/MPEG1/MPEG2 Audio codec MPEG Audio/MP3/AAC/HE-AAC/AC3/E-AC3
MKV files Video codec H.264/MPEG1/MPEG2 Audio codec MPEG Audio/MP3/AAC/HE-AAC/AC3/E-AC3
FLV files Video codec H.264 Audio codec MP3/AAC
3GPP files Video codec H.264/MPEG1/MPEG2 Audio codec AAC/HE-AAC
PS files Video codec H.264*/MPEG1/MPEG2 Audio codec MPEG Audio/MP3*/AAC*/HE-AAC*/AC3/ E-AC3*/LPCM
TS files Video codec H.264/MPEG1/MPEG2 Audio codec MPEG Audio/MP3*/AAC/HE-AAC/AC3/E-AC3
Edited by Mactavish - 6/16/13 at 9:33am
post #4397 of 5206
I ran the video on my UT50. I did see some temporary IR in the bottom left corner from my TV's media player menu but it soon resolved. This model is pretty sensitive to IR. I initially had reservations about keeping this TV but it appears to be manageable. I've got the pixel flipper as well so have a couple of options now to help. thanks for the video.
post #4398 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

I can't imagine how it could be possible that there's specific detail like that in the file... the scrolling bar was created in 3D Studio using infinitely dark and light materials to create the black/white. There could be some MPEG noise in the encoding but the compression shouldn't really have trouble with solid black and white. The only distortions I'm seeing when I run it on my TV are my usual vertical DSE patterns. The only significant difference I can detect between the original and this version is that the built-in scrolling bar uses the "vivid" mode, while I use Custom at a high contrast.

The video definitely isn't darker by the way. The reason it might seem that way is because, as I said, the scrolling bar uses vivid mode. Even compared to Custom at 100 contrast that will seem brighter because of vivid's cool temperature and slightly different driving method. Either way the bar is big enough that it does begin to trigger ABL, so it's impossible for it to be any brighter without being smaller. I tried to replicate the size (and therefore ABL level) of the original as closely as I could, assuming that the engineers had already determined the optimal setup for the IR wipe.

*Edit: Just want to say that I've confirmed that the video does include only full white and full black. Feel free to examine individual frames yourself if you don't believe me.

Thanks headlesschickens. I'll continue to use the pixel flipper but it will be nice to have this in my arsenal as well.
post #4399 of 5206
Hi all. I am very excited to join this forum! I wish I had known about it a few months ago when I bought my first Plasma.

I recently purchased a Panasonic TC-55UT50, brand new, back in late February of 2013. At the time, I took very careful precautions to not abuse the display (I primarily watch movies and TV, not games), so I stuck with true 16:9 content and was very careful to use the anti-image retention scrolling bar for the first few months. The only thing I didn't do was keep my contrast level down below 50. It was at 89 because I calibrated it to CNET standards, but still, from March to June, I had no issues. Brightness was set to 48.

A couple of weeks ago, my wife moved back home after completing an out-of-state degree. She had a couple of weeks off, and discovered the joys of my Hulu plus account. While I was at work, she indulged heavily on South Park, The Daily Show, and The Colbert Report, sometimes watching 3-4 hours of Comedy Central content a day and not using the scrolling bar. Luckily Hulu broke up the content with ads, and when I came home in the evenings, I watched a heave amount of 16:9 content on blu-ray.

A couple of days ago, I noticed the Comedy Central logo ghosting on the TV in the bottom right hand corner and it has yet to go away. I have read heavily about how best to deal with this, but would like to hear first hand. First of all, do you think this is something that will eventually go away with this model? Are we talking heavy, heavy image retention or irreversible burn in? If it will go away, are we talking about days, weeks, or months? How best should I tackle this? Should I keep 16:9 blu-rays playing all day while I am at work? Or download solid color slides and play them on loop? Or leave the TV off during the day and just watch my normal content?

Any and all thoughts are great. Thanks a lot! I look forward to participating on this forum.
post #4400 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crisis892000 View Post

Hi all. I am very excited to join this forum! I wish I had known about it a few months ago when I bought my first Plasma.

I recently purchased a Panasonic TC-55UT50, brand new, back in late February of 2013. At the time, I took very careful precautions to not abuse the display (I primarily watch movies and TV, not games), so I stuck with true 16:9 content and was very careful to use the anti-image retention scrolling bar for the first few months. The only thing I didn't do was keep my contrast level down below 50. It was at 89 because I calibrated it to CNET standards, but still, from March to June, I had no issues. Brightness was set to 48.

A couple of weeks ago, my wife moved back home after completing an out-of-state degree. She had a couple of weeks off, and discovered the joys of my Hulu plus account. While I was at work, she indulged heavily on South Park, The Daily Show, and The Colbert Report, sometimes watching 3-4 hours of Comedy Central content a day and not using the scrolling bar. Luckily Hulu broke up the content with ads, and when I came home in the evenings, I watched a heave amount of 16:9 content on blu-ray.

A couple of days ago, I noticed the Comedy Central logo ghosting on the TV in the bottom right hand corner and it has yet to go away. I have read heavily about how best to deal with this, but would like to hear first hand. First of all, do you think this is something that will eventually go away with this model? Are we talking heavy, heavy image retention or irreversible burn in? If it will go away, are we talking about days, weeks, or months? How best should I tackle this? Should I keep 16:9 blu-rays playing all day while I am at work? Or download solid color slides and play them on loop? Or leave the TV off during the day and just watch my normal content?

Any and all thoughts are great. Thanks a lot! I look forward to participating on this forum.

Run the pixel flipper overnight from the Disney Wow BD, that should get rid of it..
post #4401 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu_One View Post

Run the pixel flipper overnight from the Disney Wow BD, that should get rid of it..
This is you best option to hopefully get rid of it but no guarantees. No one can tell you if it will go away or how long it will take. Every situation is different and that is what makes this issue with plasmas so frustrating.

Also, you should not have to run your TV at a contrast level below 50 to enjoy it. Especially for normal TV viewing. If higher contrast levels are not safe then these companies should not allow the levels to be that high. If it is there then I should be able to use it.

It always has me wondering why plasmas have a vivid mode. They should just rename it burn in mode with a warning if people use it. Then the funny thing is their warranties don't cover the damage. They say it is your fault because the way you used the TV.
post #4402 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu_One View Post

Run the pixel flipper overnight from the Disney Wow BD, that should get rid of it..

Unless you have one of the newer Sony model players (like I do - Model# BDP-S5100) which will not let you loop it. mad.gif
post #4403 of 5206
Thanks you guys for your responses!

I know every situation is different. I was curious what other people have experienced in the past. I have heard things ranging from "If it lasts more than a day, it's irreversable burn-in," to "Sometimes my image retention lasts for months."

I currently do not own the World of Wonder blu ray. There are three versions of it on Amazon. Will they all contain the pixel-flipper?

Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Wow-World-Wonder-Blu-ray/dp/B00462PTDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371666253&sr=8-1&keywords=disney+wow+blu-ray
post #4404 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crisis892000 View Post

Thanks you guys for your responses!

I know every situation is different. I was curious what other people have experienced in the past. I have heard things ranging from "If it lasts more than a day, it's irreversable burn-in," to "Sometimes my image retention lasts for months."

I currently do not own the World of Wonder blu ray. There are three versions of it on Amazon. Will they all contain the pixel-flipper?

Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Wow-World-Wonder-Blu-ray/dp/B00462PTDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371666253&sr=8-1&keywords=disney+wow+blu-ray
The 2012 single disc is fine.
post #4405 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroMike View Post

Unless you have one of the newer Sony model players (like I do - Model# BDP-S5100) which will not let you loop it. mad.gif

Really ?? confused.gif

There's a loop involved here ?? I just press play and it goes until I stop it, no looping, it just plays !


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crisis892000 View Post

Thanks you guys for your responses!

I know every situation is different. I was curious what other people have experienced in the past. I have heard things ranging from "If it lasts more than a day, it's irreversable burn-in," to "Sometimes my image retention lasts for months."

I currently do not own the World of Wonder blu ray. There are three versions of it on Amazon. Will they all contain the pixel-flipper?

Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Wow-World-Wonder-Blu-ray/dp/B00462PTDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371666253&sr=8-1&keywords=disney+wow+blu-ray

Single disc is more than fine, great investment imo. The second disc is just fluff
post #4406 of 5206
I just got the Panny 60ST60 & the menus are overwhelming to say the least.
Anyhow, am about to run D-NICE slides once I finally figured out the easy way with the darn remote USB button vs. searching high & low in the menu. HAHA.

Question:
Do I just plug the USB thumb drive in & hit the USB remote button & leave the TV on for 100+ hours?

Or do I need to do something else in addition to that?
post #4407 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

I just got the Panny 60ST60 & the menus are overwhelming to say the least.
Anyhow, am about to run D-NICE slides once I finally figured out the easy way with the darn remote USB button vs. searching high & low in the menu. HAHA.

Question:
Do I just plug the USB thumb drive in & hit the USB remote button & leave the TV on for 100+ hours?

Or do I need to do something else in addition to that?

Look at post #1 from D-Nice in the 2013 settings thread, it explains all of the options you have to manually change BEFORE running the slides for 100 hours or so.
post #4408 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu_One View Post

Look at post #1 from D-Nice in the 2013 settings thread, it explains all of the options you have to manually change BEFORE running the slides for 100 hours or so.

Thanks. It looks like I leave everything as is under Picture Mode: Custom
***Leave all settings at their default*** & Display Interval: Long.
post #4409 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleM View Post

Thanks. It looks like I leave everything as is under Picture Mode: Custom
***Leave all settings at their default*** & Display Interval: Long.

Exactly, you got it smile.gif
post #4410 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu_One View Post

Really ?? confused.gif

There's a loop involved here ?? I just press play and it goes until I stop it, no looping, it just plays !

Not for me, it times out after about 15 or 20 minutes, I was hoping that there is a feature I'm not aware off which can be turned on/off to allow it run until it's manually shut off.

It runs like a movie would, once the time of the clip is up, it goes off. frown.gif
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