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Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 150

post #4471 of 5206
How bad is the IR; noticeable from regular viewing distances or from color slides and light backgrounds at close distances only? I have the 65VT30 and it took well into the 3000 hour mark before IR began to stabalize - before that i would have some IR from logos that would last a week at a time. Also, I quit seeking it out and only pop the color slides up occasionaly - to very little to any IR anymore.
post #4472 of 5206
O.K., believe it or not, I have now read every post in this thread. Call me a masochist, or maybe as my wife says I'm just anal, but I do like to do my research. My wife and I are building a summer cabin and will be purchasing a new T.V. I have never owned a plasma before, but am seriously considering the 51" Samsung F8500. I do have a couple of questions however, particularly concerning a couple of posts made by "headlesschickens". I was wondering about the download IR wipe files that he posted a link to. Are they just for Panasonic T.V.'s or can they be used on any T.V. (particularly Samsung)? I did download the zip file onto my Mac computer and when I opened the file I got an MPG file that opened in Quicktime, but all that played was a black screen. Am I doing something wrong? And finally, I remember reading some posts earlier in the forum that stated you should not run the swipe function on the T.V. too often as it would do harm to the set. I can't remember if the poster said that was information from the manufacturer or not, but can anyone tell me, is it possible or even likely that you will do harm to the set by running the swipe function that comes with the T.V., and given that "headlesschickens" files are taken from that principle, will his files do harm to the T.V.? Thanks so much for your help.
post #4473 of 5206
It doesn't appear that Samsung has posted the user manual yet to their site, so I couldn't confirm the claims that using the swipe function too often could damage the set. I would say that if it could, you probably would have to use it quite a bit - for the record, I've only used the scrolling bar wipe on my Panasonic VT30 a dozen or so times when I first had it. As for the files, you will have to wait for headlesschickens to reply. You may want to look into color slides to run during the first 100 hours or so of usage to help age the phosphers evenly - but it isn't imperative to do this. A simple search on this site for "break-in slides" will produce quite a bit of results, but if you can't find what you need PM me and I will send you a link. I had never owned a plasma before I bought my VT30 and was always quite content with the image my LED/LCD produced, but once I purchased the plasma, I swore I would never go back.
post #4474 of 5206
D-Nice's break-in slides are designed for an accelerated uniform (all pixels evenly) break-in of all pixels on the screen, so you can get a "better" calibration. Slides will work for any TV.

The pixels/panel continues to age and shift slightly even up to 300 hours.

Instead of running slides, you can loop PIXAR/CG movies, leave it on HBO, etc. to just age the panel. When I got my TV a few weeks ago, I'd watch it during they day, and let my PS3 loop about 20 video game trailers overnight, to get to about 100 hours in 4 days.

Also, the video file you downloaded is I think 60fps, alternating black-white. It appears black only because it is probably playing back at 30fps. If you pause it and use the arrow keys, I imagine it would alternate white-black-white. It does seem like it would be very stressful on the TV, especially when the TV is brand new, going black-white-black 60 times a second.

My Panasonic ST60's swipe function is just black and white blocks scrolling across the screen, not too fast.

You can also get the Disney WOW Blu-ray, which has a pixel-flipper video app that can help break-in TVs or try to clear up IR. It plays until you stop it, although some BD players may detect no input/interaction and time out.
post #4475 of 5206
I've been mighty careful, though, employing the screen wipe feature rather frequently. 10.gif
post #4476 of 5206
I recently spent a good bit of time with the VT60 and ZT60 at Best Buy running test images and videos. I'll skip the conclusions I made about the panels and drive methods (short version: nearly identical to the VT50 panels, making this most likely a "tock" year on the 2-year cycle) and note that I observed the same IR performance on these panels as I have on the 2012 Panasonics. In fact, the first thing I noticed on the ZT was that it already had a very strong dark imprint of the "ELITE" logo in the upper right corner. This imprint didn't change during the time I spent with the TV so I doubt it was recent.

My perspective is that the reports of less IR come from the lower light output of these panels (many of you may know that lowering the light output on the 2012 panels dramatically decreases IR). I believe that the reduced brightness (a compromise made to get the very impressive black levels out of what is largely the same panel tech as last year) result in a longer average time for IR to form while the panel's actual IR characteristics are unchanged. Hopefully Panasonic has one last major panel update ready to go, because this is an unimpressive way to exit the plasma business (next year would be the start of another 2-year panel tech cycle in theory).

I intend to test the Samsung for IR performance as well in the near future, especially considering the impressive IR performance Samsung brought to their otherwise disappointing panels last year. Unfortunately the F8500's terrible input lag means it's not an option for me, but I still want to know if Samsung will be maintaining their 2012 IR performance down the line.
post #4477 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

I recently spent a good bit of time with the VT60 and ZT60 at Best Buy running test images and videos. I'll skip the conclusions I made about the panels and drive methods (short version: nearly identical to the VT50 panels, making this most likely a "tock" year on the 2-year cycle) and note that I observed the same IR performance on these panels as I have on the 2012 Panasonics. In fact, the first thing I noticed on the ZT was that it already had a very strong dark imprint of the "ELITE" logo in the upper right corner. This imprint didn't change during the time I spent with the TV so I doubt it was recent.

My perspective is that the reports of less IR come from the lower light output of these panels (many of you may know that lowering the light output on the 2012 panels dramatically decreases IR). I believe that the reduced brightness (a compromise made to get the very impressive black levels out of what is largely the same panel tech as last year) result in a longer average time for IR to form while the panel's actual IR characteristics are unchanged. Hopefully Panasonic has one last major panel update ready to go, because this is an unimpressive way to exit the plasma business (next year would be the start of another 2-year panel tech cycle in theory).

I intend to test the Samsung for IR performance as well in the near future, especially considering the impressive IR performance Samsung brought to their otherwise disappointing panels last year. Unfortunately the F8500's terrible input lag means it's not an option for me, but I still want to know if Samsung will be maintaining their 2012 IR performance down the line.


I run my VT50 at 51 ftl all the time no IR at all, fact is many have 2012 models with no IR problema and many will have 2013 models with no issues.
post #4478 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

I recently spent a good bit of time with the VT60 and ZT60 at Best Buy running test images and videos. I'll skip the conclusions I made about the panels and drive methods (short version: nearly identical to the VT50 panels, making this most likely a "tock" year on the 2-year cycle) and note that I observed the same IR performance on these panels as I have on the 2012 Panasonics. In fact, the first thing I noticed on the ZT was that it already had a very strong dark imprint of the "ELITE" logo in the upper right corner. This imprint didn't change during the time I spent with the TV so I doubt it was recent.

My perspective is that the reports of less IR come from the lower light output of these panels (many of you may know that lowering the light output on the 2012 panels dramatically decreases IR). I believe that the reduced brightness (a compromise made to get the very impressive black levels out of what is largely the same panel tech as last year) result in a longer average time for IR to form while the panel's actual IR characteristics are unchanged. Hopefully Panasonic has one last major panel update ready to go, because this is an unimpressive way to exit the plasma business (next year would be the start of another 2-year panel tech cycle in theory).

I intend to test the Samsung for IR performance as well in the near future, especially considering the impressive IR performance Samsung brought to their otherwise disappointing panels last year. Unfortunately the F8500's terrible input lag means it's not an option for me, but I still want to know if Samsung will be maintaining their 2012 IR performance down the line.


I will be very interested in what you find out regarding the Samsung, as I hope to purchase the 51" F8500 later this year.
post #4479 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

I intend to test the Samsung for IR performance as well in the near future, especially considering the impressive IR performance Samsung brought to their otherwise disappointing panels last year. Unfortunately the F8500's terrible input lag means it's not an option for me, but I still want to know if Samsung will be maintaining their 2012 IR performance down the line.

At 60fps there's less than a frame of input lag difference between VT60 and F8500 (just rename input to 'PC'). So if F8500 is terrible, I don't see how ~10ms better makes the VT60 that much less terrible.
post #4480 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by blaket81 View Post

I think my ir is coming from netflix, so im just going to stay away from it and see if it goes away. When youre in netflix theres this box over which title is currently selected, this box does not move, when you arrow in any direction it just scrolls titles through the box. I go through sperts where i hardly ever use netflix or i use it a lot. Lately it has been alot, this is the only thing that could cause it, i dont leave stuff up or the the tv on and when i game its only for like a half hour a sitting. Plus the ir im seeing pretty much looks like that box.


As mentioned in my previous post, I have now read through every post in this forum. I'm still not scared off Plasma, but do have one major concern, that being the post above where the fellow says he got IR from Netflix. My wife and I are building a cabin and our new T.V. will be used primarily for Netflix. We will have a Blu Ray player, but I would say well over 95% of the T.V.'s use will be Netflix. We don't currently have a Netflix account (we'll be getting one when we get the new T.V.) so I don't know a lot about it, but if Netflix itself is causing I.R., then I will have no way to alter content and the IR will just keep building and building. If it was just a certain program on Netflix then I could alter the program, but the way I understand the post, it was Netflix itself that was the problem.

So, my question then, is there anyone else out there who notices that Netflix is a source of I.R.? If you were going to run nothing but Netflix on your T.V., would you still go with Plasma or should I be looking instead at LCD / LED?
post #4481 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

I run my VT50 at 51 ftl all the time no IR at all, fact is many have 2012 models with no IR problema and many will have 2013 models with no issues.

I forgot to add my traditional disclaimer, "This post to be followed by a number of anecdotal assertions that some Panasonic plasmas don't have IR."

I get it, your usage case doesn't produce IR. The fact that you know your calibrated ftl output in the first place tells me you probably don't use your TV the way many people in this thread will. I promise you that your panel would fail my IR test (I'd honestly bet money on it). Now that doesn't mean you're not right in saying that many people will never run into this problem; if you watch mostly stuff from BR and channels without logos it's never going to happen, and in those cases I'd say these are great panels. But if you put a game with a bright HUD up for 2-3 hours some of that HUD is going to stick for 6-9 hours. If you have a favorite game or logo channel those elements are going to stay on the panel for a long time, maybe forever if you keep re-exposing the images.

More critically, I'm not comparing to some arbitrary standard of IR I made up. I'm comparing to the ancient Pioneer 5080HD, which is hardly considered a legendary panel. I'm also comparing to the 60"+ Samsung panels from last year (For all I know they "borrowed" this tech from Pioneer's old panels since that's kind of their thing).
post #4482 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

I forgot to add my traditional disclaimer, "This post to be followed by a number of anecdotal assertions that some Panasonic plasmas don't have IR."

I get it, your usage case doesn't produce IR. The fact that you know your calibrated ftl output in the first place tells me you probably don't use your TV the way many people in this thread will. I promise you that your panel would fail my IR test (I'd honestly bet money on it). Now that doesn't mean you're not right in saying that many people will never run into this problem; if you watch mostly stuff from BR and channels without logos it's never going to happen, and in those cases I'd say these are great panels. But if you put a game with a bright HUD up for 2-3 hours some of that HUD is going to stick for 6-9 hours. If you have a favorite game or logo channel those elements are going to stay on the panel for a long time, maybe forever if you keep re-exposing the images.

More critically, I'm not comparing to some arbitrary standard of IR I made up. I'm comparing to the ancient Pioneer 5080HD, which is hardly considered a legendary panel. I'm also comparing to the 60"+ Samsung panels from last year (For all I know they "borrowed" this tech from Pioneer's old panels since that's kind of their thing).

We have had this conversation before gaming I have no idea and you are probably right but as far as other uses I am 95% cable and I watch whatever I want for as long as I want. That includes logos tickers scoreboards etc I must have a magic panel and in fact several magic panels, GT25 ST30 and now a VT50 and never one single instance or an IR problem.
post #4483 of 5206
I have an st60 and noticed last night that no matter what settings I changed in eco mode (all off) and whatnot, the Disney Pixel Flipper seems to enable ABL. I went back and fourth looking at the screen wipe and then the pixel flipper and the screen wipe is so much brighter. Is there a way to run the Pixel Flipper without it dimming the screen? Why is it preventing max brightness with all things effecting brightness turned off? Makes me think I'm not getting the full benefits of the pixel flipper because of this.
post #4484 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

I have an st60 and noticed last night that no matter what settings I changed in eco mode (all off) and whatnot, the Disney Pixel Flipper seems to enable ABL. I went back and fourth looking at the screen wipe and then the pixel flipper and the screen wipe is so much brighter. Is there a way to run the Pixel Flipper without it dimming the screen? Why is it preventing max brightness with all things effecting brightness turned off? Makes me think I'm not getting the full benefits of the pixel flipper because of this.

ABL is undefeatable
post #4485 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

ABL is undefeatable
That's unfortunate. So I assume its just disabled during the screen wipe function and that alone? Once or twice a month I like to run pixel flipper overnight to clear up and bouts of IR I may have developed. Since Pixel Flipper triggers ABL would I be better off to continue to run it vs the screen wipe or would the screen wipe be more beneficial since its brighter? I figured the pixel flipper would work better since it uses all the colors and "flips" them around like static vs the screen wipes simple black and white swipe.
post #4486 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

That's unfortunate. So I assume its just disabled during the screen wipe function and that alone? Once or twice a month I like to run pixel flipper overnight to clear up and bouts of IR I may have developed. Since Pixel Flipper triggers ABL would I be better off to continue to run it vs the screen wipe or would the screen wipe be more beneficial since its brighter? I figured the pixel flipper would work better since it uses all the colors and "flips" them around like static vs the screen wipes simple black and white swipe.

I don't have experience with pixel flipper but don't think abl would hinder the mechanism for activating the pixels I would be more concerned with pixel orbiter setting should be off
post #4487 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

I recently spent a good bit of time with the VT60 and ZT60 at Best Buy running test images and videos. I'll skip the conclusions I made about the panels and drive methods (short version: nearly identical to the VT50 panels, making this most likely a "tock" year on the 2-year cycle) and note that I observed the same IR performance on these panels as I have on the 2012 Panasonics. In fact, the first thing I noticed on the ZT was that it already had a very strong dark imprint of the "ELITE" logo in the upper right corner. This imprint didn't change during the time I spent with the TV so I doubt it was recent.

My perspective is that the reports of less IR come from the lower light output of these panels (many of you may know that lowering the light output on the 2012 panels dramatically decreases IR). I believe that the reduced brightness (a compromise made to get the very impressive black levels out of what is largely the same panel tech as last year) result in a longer average time for IR to form while the panel's actual IR characteristics are unchanged. Hopefully Panasonic has one last major panel update ready to go, because this is an unimpressive way to exit the plasma business (next year would be the start of another 2-year panel tech cycle in theory).

I intend to test the Samsung for IR performance as well in the near future, especially considering the impressive IR performance Samsung brought to their otherwise disappointing panels last year. Unfortunately the F8500's terrible input lag means it's not an option for me, but I still want to know if Samsung will be maintaining their 2012 IR performance down the line.

I was under the impression from the marketing reports that the ST/GT/VT50 had a 25% increase in brightness from the previous panel - VT30. So, you're saying they went back in brightness for the 60 series?
post #4488 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

I was under the impression from the marketing reports that the ST/GT/VT50 had a 25% increase in brightness from the previous panel - VT30. So, you're saying they went back in brightness for the 60 series?

ST60 certainly didnt the VT and ZT are dimmer than the VT50 of last year.
post #4489 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickbeams View Post

As mentioned in my previous post, I have now read through every post in this forum. I'm still not scared off Plasma, but do have one major concern, that being the post above where the fellow says he got IR from Netflix. My wife and I are building a cabin and our new T.V. will be used primarily for Netflix. We will have a Blu Ray player, but I would say well over 95% of the T.V.'s use will be Netflix. We don't currently have a Netflix account (we'll be getting one when we get the new T.V.) so I don't know a lot about it, but if Netflix itself is causing I.R., then I will have no way to alter content and the IR will just keep building and building. If it was just a certain program on Netflix then I could alter the program, but the way I understand the post, it was Netflix itself that was the problem.

So, my question then, is there anyone else out there who notices that Netflix is a source of I.R.? If you were going to run nothing but Netflix on your T.V., would you still go with Plasma or should I be looking instead at LCD / LED?

I use Netflix quite often on my panel and never have any issues that I notice. I'm not sure of the box he is referring to; this is not present while you are watching a show, so it must be on the interface. I.R. is inevitable on any plasma panel and if you go looking for it, you will find it. The good thing is, it tends to fade away quickly and seldom becomes a problem. There are many that will report they have had persistent IR, sometimes lasting months, but it almost always fades away. I myself had the text "Menu" on my screen 3 months when I first had my panel from changing the settings, but it was only visible at extremely close distances on light color slides. That key is to just enjoy your panel to its fullest and not seek out I.R. every time you use the set - you will drive yourself nuts.

Now, based on the information you have listed, I'm not sure that a plasma would benefit your usage needs much. I use mine mostly for Bu-rays and sports, two things that I find lacking on my LED/LCD. Since you are concerned about I.R. and this won't be your primary television, I would go with an LED/LCD.
post #4490 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

I use Netflix quite often on my panel and never have any issues that I notice. I'm not sure of the box he is referring to; this is not present while you are watching a show, so it must be on the interface. I.R. is inevitable on any plasma panel and if you go looking for it, you will find it. The good thing is, it tends to fade away quickly and seldom becomes a problem. There are many that will report they have had persistent IR, sometimes lasting months, but it almost always fades away. I myself had the text "Menu" on my screen 3 months when I first had my panel from changing the settings, but it was only visible at extremely close distances on light color slides. That key is to just enjoy your panel to its fullest and not seek out I.R. every time you use the set - you will drive yourself nuts.

Now, based on the information you have listed, I'm not sure that a plasma would benefit your usage needs much. I use mine mostly for Bu-rays and sports, two things that I find lacking on my LED/LCD. Since you are concerned about I.R. and this won't be your primary television, I would go with an LED/LCD.


Thank you for your response. There are a couple of things I should have added. The T.V. is going to be mounted above the fireplace which I suppose doesn't matter one way or the other. One of the reasons I was thinking about a plasma however, was for the off angle viewing. This will be a concern for us. As well, with the plasma F8500 we can get a 51" where with the LCD / LED F8000 we can get either a 46" or a 55". I would prefer not to get the 46" and my wife really doesn't want the 55" so the 51" plasma seemed to be the perfect compromise. And besides all this, we really liked the picture on the F8500, although I gather from what you're saying that we may not realize this enhanced picture quality by watching Netflix. Still, as long as Netflix is not going to cause us persistent IR that we won't be able to get rid of because it is just part of Netflix itself, then I think we would still prefer the plasma.

And again, I understand that IR generally fades away, but from what I understand it fades away when the viewer watches different content. We will be predominantly watching Netflix so we won't be able to watch different content. Thanks again.
post #4491 of 5206
Well, nothing is better for off-viewing than plasma. As far as Netflix, it is just like watching cable or a Blu-ray, but instead you are streaming. The user who posted about IR from Netflix had to be referring to the interface where you select movies. As long as you are not on this screen for hours on end and don't leave it open overnight, you will be fine; any IR you get from it will fade rapidly. Realistically, you are varying the content you watch by selecting differnt shows - no different than changing the TV to another channel. Just make sure you have plenty of fullscreen viewing and don't watch everything with black bars. During football season, I have my plasma on a game all day Saturday and Sunday and any IR I have from the scores and logos is gone within a few hours.
post #4492 of 5206
I had an eye-opening experience with my Samsung plasma last night.

I put at least 100 hours into it with the slides and full-screen content before I really started using it, and by now I probably have 150+ hours on it. During the break-in period I didn't pause anything; if I had to leave the room I'd just let the movie play and then rewind it when I returned. Last night while watching a BD I decided to live dangerously and pause it for a quick trip to the kitchen. It was paused for maybe three to four minutes, in which time a small static menu bar appeared on the bottom of the screen with my BD options (e.g. Bookmark, Chapter). That menu couldn't have been there for more than a couple of minutes.

When I resumed the movie I could see the dark outline of that menu bar very clearly! It went away eventually, but I think it took as long or longer to go away than it was on the screen in the first place, so it was probably a 1:1 repair time on the static image. Now I can understand why it takes so long to remove IR from video games or channel logos that are displayed for hours at a time.

Granted I do have the contrast set to a robust 84 (I kept it at 50 during the break-in period), but I don't think that's an uncommon level for movie modes.

After the movie was over I ran the scroll bars for a few minutes just to be on the safe side. Fortunately I saw no signs of the menu bar, so simply watching the last 45 minutes or so of the movie apparently wiped it clean.
Edited by RedZeppelin - 7/18/13 at 6:49am
post #4493 of 5206
I think the rule of thumb for IR removal using a pixel flipper or IR wipe (rolling black/white bars, if the TV has this feature) is 1:4, so for every 1 minute of IR on the screen, one needs 4 minutes of wipe time.

Problem becomes when a logo is there for a full show of say an hour, which means those pixels need to be flipped/ran thru with multiple colors for 4 hours to get the IR to fade or be gone.

I personally still have some IR of the ESPN logo left and I've not watch espn in full screen mode in over a month and this is with using the IR wipe daily for 20 min clips at a time.
post #4494 of 5206
I had a bit of an interesting note regarding IR. For the longest time I had overscan on and pixel orbiter on. Contrast set abnormally low in the mid 30s during the day cause my wife tends to watch Investigation Discovery a lot which has a terrible logo prime for IR. For the most part I was able to avoid 95% of any IR from that station. Recently (last few days) I decided to turn overscan off and pixel orbiter off, and came home today and ran the screen wipe and low and behold some IR from the investigation discovery logo, crisp as can be. She didn't watch it any longer than any other time. Needless to say, overscan and pixel orbiter have been turned back on.
post #4495 of 5206
How much viewing does she do in a day and how old is the set? I ran my tv with low contrast during the break-in period when watching tv with logos or black bars, but once it had some hours on it, I opened it up to settings I enjoy. My wife has the tv on some of the day with various stations - no more than a few hours at most - that have logos, and if i check, I rarely have IR. I'm no expert but your set might be more susceptible to IR if you run it at extremely low contrast settings for the majority of the time and then flip to a high contrast for just a few hours of viewing.
post #4496 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

Needless to say, overscan and pixel orbiter have been turned back on.

No need to turn on Overscan as it won't help with the TV channel logo IR but I would recommend leaving the pixel orbiter on.
post #4497 of 5206
Overscan will move/resize the logo. Maybe alternate on/off to vary where the logo.
post #4498 of 5206
Another thing, for all the people who are anal like me, when it comes to looking for the IR at close by distances on a pure white screen, the brightest white screen I've yet to find (and I've went thru 100's of "white" screens) is from a 2012 movie called Prometheus. I'm not promoting the movie as it was not that great (it's an Aliens wannabe) but there is a scene where a woman is on a surgical type table and they zoom in on her face, the surrounding area is so white that I used it as my go to screen for IR checks!
post #4499 of 5206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

How much viewing does she do in a day and how old is the set? I ran my tv with low contrast during the break-in period when watching tv with logos or black bars, but once it had some hours on it, I opened it up to settings I enjoy. My wife has the tv on some of the day with various stations - no more than a few hours at most - that have logos, and if i check, I rarely have IR. I'm no expert but your set might be more susceptible to IR if you run it at extremely low contrast settings for the majority of the time and then flip to a high contrast for just a few hours of viewing.
I have around 200 hours I would think on my tv. I still keep the contrast low for the most part when watching anything with logos or gaming with static huds. She probably watches the channel 2-3 hours I would think. When we are watching movies I use my normal settings. Just babying the set still. Whats funny is it seems to be just that dang channel which causes any IR whether the contrast is normal or not. During the NBA finals I watched a game with the stark black scoreboard for the entire game, not a hint of IR, yet this stupid channel has a white logo thats barely transparent but the "ID" seems to have a drop shadow on it and my plasmas eat it up. My bedroom Samsung plasma has the IR pretty good but its sloooooooowly fading and not really noticeable during regular viewing. Its just weird that some logos seem to stick while others you would think would be way worse do not. In any case though the pixel flipper, even though it activates ABL, seems to help clear any I get.
post #4500 of 5206
I see from your posts that you have the ST60 - sounds pretty normal for the Panasonic sets. I had similar IR issues all the way up to around 1000 hours on my VT30. I have around 3000 hours on the set now and don't have many issues at all, so all gets better. I had the contrast low until around 500 hours and would only raise the contrast on fullscreen with no logos so the pixels would age evenly. I also did the 100 hour break-in with color slides. Enjoy your set.
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