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Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 152

post #4531 of 5198
Does putting the panel brightness to low instead of mid offer and extra help for IR prevention combined with the lower contrasts? What about gamma? Any sweet spot? Specifically regarding IR, not in relation to what looks correct for a proper calibration. I ask because I have one setting for movies and what not, and then one setting for regular tv and tv shows with logos. Because I was testing things on low contrast on my ST60 and had it at 25 (looks terrible obviously), brightness at 0, panel brightness at LOW, and gamma at I think 2.4, pixel orbiter ON, overscan ON, and the Investigation Discovery logo still reared its ugly head with some light IR but still clearly visible (on the screen wipe) with probably only 2 hours of my wife watching the channel.
Edited by garnettrules21 - 7/30/13 at 2:48pm
post #4532 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

Of course those basic settings will more or less just get you to THX Cinema mode, so again it might make more sense to just stick with that.

We have some IR on our VT50 that we got in April that has been watched 100% of the time in THX Cinema mode. frown.gif It's from the baseball scoreboard on our local sports affiliate and it's pretty noticeable on white/light backgrounds. We didn't break it in with slides or anything... only watched full screen content this whole time, and have never left the baseball game paused or anything, and the scoreboard is not even up there 100% of the games, only in the camera angle behind the pitcher.

I tried the WOW pixel flipper overnight and it didn't help... next we are going to try the color slides. I was hoping it would go away with normal viewing but after a couple weeks it still seems the same as it was... and of course we're still watching baseball sometimes, so I guess that's probably not helping. I thought we'd be safe in THX Cinema mode because the settings aren't cranked really high, but I guess not. I wish you could turn on the pixel orbiter in that mode... I tried setting up the THX Cinema settings into Custom so we could turn it on, but I didn't know what settings to use from the menus that you can't access in THX Cinema mode.
post #4533 of 5198
One thing that helps is turning Overscan on and off, because it changes the size and location of things on the screen including logos, scoreboards, etc. Might be a PITA but still...
I can see sports games being tricky, because they can go long stretches between commercial breaks.
post #4534 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

Conventional wisdom is 100% incorrect on this one. "Break-in" periods have zero impact on IR performance. This is an old myth from the days of panels with extremely low half-life ratings, where in theory it might reduce the occurrence of burn-in to pre-age the panel somewhat. In practice it didn't really help much back then, and the modern long-term IR we contend with is NOT caused by uneven pixel wear so this break-in will not help at all. Long-term IR is generally understood to be caused by a deposit of chemicals inside the cell which physically block light (though getting more detailed info is difficult since manufacturers refuse to talk about it, and those old Pioneer papers on the subject are too dense for non-engineers). The degree to which your panel experiences this effect will not change during its lifetime, even after 1000's of hours. The only valid application of break in is to get the major gamma and color shifts out of the way before a calibration, since no one wants to have to pay for another one after 300 hours of usage. Panels experience most of their color balance and gamma shifts in the early hours of their lives.

The only way to prevent IR is to avoid static images, the primary offenders being channel logos and game HUDs. Black bars are generally safe enough because the concern is static bright areas, but I can see producing IR if you watched something super-bright with black bars (think cartoon or documentary about Antarctica bright). You can also reduce the occurrence of IR when you are exposing bright static elements by reducing contrast, but it's hard to say where the safe range is. You can get plenty of IR at contrast 70, but not as much as 100 (note that depending on your panel the peak output may not be at 100; on my GT50 the highest contrast setting that actually has an impact on light output, regardless of ABL level, is 83). If I drop to around 50 or lower I feel pretty safe about IR, but I can't promise that 50 is actually the cutoff. At a contrast of 30 I feel perfectly safe using the panel as a desktop display for hours and at that contrast have never seen a hint of IR.
Short version: 60's definitely in the much safer range, but go as high as you want on proper dynamic content (movies, logo-free TV). Avoid the same logo for a while and hopefully it'll get better. Ironically the IR will fade faster if you use a higher contrast setting while watching fully dynamic content.

Long version:

As I mentioned above, you can feel free to use any contrast setting with fully dynamic content for as long as you want. I'd even say movies with black bars are of little concern. But with long-term viewing of channels with logos you're going to either need to go lower or get used to doing an "IR wipe" cycle. This means running some kind of fully dynamic, preferably bright content to counter the IR on a regular basis. The wipe function is very effective (though it can't be run indefinitely unless you have an XX60 model), many people swear by the pixel fipper, and even the break in slides are effective enough. Full screen movies, cartoons, etc. are also just as good. If your viewing is mixed enough you may already be performing an IR wipe without thinking about it (for example, if your viewing ratio is something like 1 hour logo channel to 3 hours full dynamic you'll probably never see IR). Since you're seeing the IR obviously your ratio (especially considering the maxed contrast) isn't working for you, so you'll want to take some steps. Hopefully your IR will fade over time until it's no longer easily visible, or better yet gone entirely.

As far as why the modes are all so mixed up on these TVs, ask the lunatics in marketing because the modes are a mess. Standard is of course the worst mode on the TV (bad gradation, low light output, would make you think plasma is the worst tech out there), game mode is loaded with dynamic contrast even though it's supposed to be the zero-processing mode, cinema is some kind of prototype for ultra-high gradation panel drive that compromises too much contrast to be useful in practice, and Custom is the best mode but requires a good amount of careful attention to actually work properly (for example on most panels you need a brightness of about 56 in order to avoid crushing blacks in Custom, which is a really odd arrangement). Honestly, dealing with these things would be a huge pain if you're not into doing a bit of amateur calibration (hook up a computer and go to lagom.nl to hit the basics, like black level and contrast). THX Cinema ends up being the only good option for a user who doesn't want to do tweaking, as it should have the black level correct, be at a reasonable contrast (around 70), and be closer to calibrated than any of the other modes are at stock settings.

If you want some baseline settings for Custom I can help there:
-Mode: Custom
-Contrast: 70; you can go higher but 70 is a good place to start if you're looking for a middle ground between IR risk and light output. You'll find 70 in "mid" drive mode is already way brighter than 100 in "low" (cinema) drive mode.
-Brightness: 55-56; But you need to check this in content that contains true black. The rule is turn it up until your true blacks start to contain random flashing pixels, then turn it down to the exact point where they stop. This has to be done in the dark.
-Color: Leave alone unless you have a personal preference here or calibration equipment.
-All of the "enhancers" under pro/advanced: zero or off
-Panel brightness: Mid is the best drive mode for most users.
-Color temp: Purists like warm2, I'm personally a fan of warm1 even though it's probably a little cool compared to 6500. Basically just try a couple settings and see what you like.
-All the precise calibration adjustments: Leave them alone unless you have a meter, they're going to be different for every panel. Don't believe anyone who tells you to use specific settings for these as they are very unlikely to work well on your specific panel.

Of course those basic settings will more or less just get you to THX Cinema mode, so again it might make more sense to just stick with that.

Thanks for the advice. I do see that my TV has an image wipe function where a white bar wipes across the screen for 15 minutes. I tried that and the image retention does seem a little lighter, but it may be my imagination. The image retention is barely noticeable as is and you can pretty much only see it on solid white backgrounds. I watch HBO quite a bit so you would figure that would cut down on the image retention a bit. But, I guess the problem is that I just end up turning on Fox News when I'm eating and there's nothing else on. So, I turn it on for breakfast and dinner, and then on the weekends for lunch as well, and sometimes for when I'm having my snack before bed. Sucks that I'll need to stop watching Fox News, but I suppose all that conservative propaganda is going to make me crazy eventually anyway. Any suggestions for a news network that doesn't have a network logo in the left corner or perhaps just a suggestion on what to watch while I'm eating and there's nothing else on?
post #4535 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

One thing that helps is turning Overscan on and off, because it changes the size and location of things on the screen including logos, scoreboards, etc. Might be a PITA but still...
I can see sports games being tricky, because they can go long stretches between commercial breaks.
This is what I've been doing lately as well.
post #4536 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Moron View Post

Any suggestions for a news network that doesn't have a network logo in the left corner or perhaps just a suggestion on what to watch while I'm eating and there's nothing else on?

Local news, PBS (PBS Newshour in the evenings is great, real news, no logos).
Other options are Netflix, Food Network, HGTV, Comedy Central whatever floats your boat. Commercial breaks should help with any short-term IR, especially if you are switching up the channel and content.
post #4537 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlesschickens View Post

Conventional wisdom is 100% incorrect on this one. ".

That's the beauty of this thread. The advice on IR is like the weather in Cincinnati where I used to live -- if you don't like it wait a bit and it will change.
post #4538 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by laria View Post

We have some IR on our VT50 that we got in April that has been watched 100% of the time in THX Cinema mode. frown.gif It's from the baseball scoreboard on our local sports affiliate and it's pretty noticeable on white/light backgrounds.

I was hoping it would go away with normal viewing but after a couple weeks it still seems the same as it was... and of course we're still watching baseball

I thought we'd be safe in THX Cinema mode because the settings aren't cranked really high, but I guess not.

I bought my GT50 in about March/April this year as well, watched it 100% in THX Cinema mode as well for the first 2-3 months until I did Custom setting. For the first 200-300 hours I tried to vary content to prevent seeing logo's but my son would watch ESPN every morning for about a 30 min clip and my daughter would watch MTV2 in the afternoon for about an hour or so, we also wacth baseball games 3-4 times a week, so I have/had 3 logo's, ESPN, MTV2 and YES (yankees network) as IR.

When we noticed the ESPN logo (which is the worst of the 3) on a pure white sceeen, we pretty much stopped watching ESPN on this TV. I ran the WOW pixel flipper and the IR white/black rolling bars for about two+ months, about every other day for 20 min clips, run a bluray movie of Avator for it's colors and the logo is still there, very faint but when you come up close to the TV and look at an angle on a pure white screen you can see it but only if you know where to look, but it's not noticeable to a person other than me.

What I now do is, anytime we watch something with a logo, we switch to ZOOM every 15-20 minutes for 5 minutes, so that the logo is off the screen or barely there, this seems to be the solution for us as this method still allows us to leave the brightness and contrast levels where we want them in custom mode and I barely use the pixel flipper and IR white rolling bars. Again this works for me and everyone here has their own method to maddness!
post #4539 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroMike View Post

What I now do is, anytime we watch something with a logo, we switch to ZOOM every 15-20 minutes for 5 minutes, so that the logo is off the screen or barely there. . .

That's a smart idea. I'm surprised, though, that the frequent commercial breaks don't serve the same purpose when watching shows with logos.

I watch almost no TV on my plasma, but that will probably change once football season starts. I'm already worried about the score boxes always present on the screen. I'm sure I'll use your zoom trick now and then.
post #4540 of 5198
I used the zoom method when I had a Comcast cable box. Now I have DirecTV, and it doesn't have an "HD Zoom" feature. I'd love to just do it with my TV itself, but "zoom" isn't an available aspect option when watching HD content (only 4:3, 16:9, Screen-Fit, and Wide-Zoom). Wide-Zoom is the closest to what I'm looking for, but it's not quite the same and doesn't really always cut everything off. Logos? I guess so.

Won't know how to control my parents with this one, though. My dad falls asleep to his news channels all of the time, and with extreme purpose too (as in, watches it so he can fall asleep to it). Asking him to do certain things is just too much for him, as it probably is for anybody. I take great care with my own TV in my bedroom, and to the naysayer who claims IR patterns don't change over time, it certainly has for me. Sure, I'm over 2000 hours watched, but <500 hours in, I definitely noticed IR in places that I don't anymore after identical usage of my television. This includes TV station logos, COD ammo indicator, black bars from films, and sports score bug HUD's.

Anyway, the new TV is coming in today (F8500) and I'm going to be running slides through the weekend when we're out of town. Hopefully I can get 150+ hours in before the folks necessitate that we need to start watching content on it, and I don't want to be the crabby dude who has to tell them to be careful with their new toy as they're trying to watch it, so I guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed when all is said and done. In a perfect world, I'd run slides for two weeks, get a professional calibrator out here, watch HBO for another two weeks, then watch as I please. Nobody will be able to wait a month, though. That's just not going to happen.
post #4541 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedZeppelin View Post

I'm surprised, though, that the frequent commercial breaks don't serve the same purpose when watching shows with logos.

I watch almost no TV on my plasma, but that will probably change once football season starts. I'm already worried about the score boxes always present on the screen. I'm sure I'll use your zoom trick now and then.

That was my thinking as well, that the commercial breaks will help with pixel refreshement for lack of words but seems like History, Discovery and SciFy keep the logo's thru some of the commercial breaks but the main issue for me is that we DVR all our favorite shows, so we fast forward thru the commercials = almost continuous logo view for the length of the show.

I have to say, the stations are getting ballsier by the minute, I mean does one really need to have two logo's of their networks and do we really need to see a 12"-15" logo in bright colors? That crap really drives me crazy, especially after being more aware of the IR issues, whereas prior to this set, I never noticed now big and bright the logo's are.
post #4542 of 5198
Running slides on a new Samsung PN60F8500, got a quick question.

I was trying to run it straight from a USB thumb drive, but every new picture had a quick "Loading..." icon flash before the new slide would show up. I figure over time, that would start leaving some IR on that. Now I'm just doing it with my PS3.

Two questions based on this:

1) Any way I can get rid of that "loading" thing in between slides?

2) Running it on my PS3 has every color 'fade' into the next color, and the pixels never turn off. Is the "turning off" a crucial part of the break-in process that I should consider, that's not happening when I'm doing it with the PS3?

Thanks.
post #4543 of 5198
The slides are just to age all of the pixels evenly during the first 100~ hours. Don't sweat it so much. You're not going to break or harm anything.
post #4544 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

The slides are just to age all of the pixels evenly during the first 100~ hours. Don't sweat it so much. You're not going to break or harm anything.

I know what they're for, I did it for two plasmas of mine already. I'm just saying that with my previous two, I used the flash drive right into the TV. I can't do it this time because of the "Loading..." thing that pops up every five seconds.

I'm going to be gone for the weekend is all, so I'm wondering if I should leave it on this weekend or not. No single pixel will be shut off for 96+ hours, and neither will my PS3 that's running the slides. That's why I'm curious. If it was just the TV and it shut off between slides and I could check on it every 8-12 hours, that would be one thing. You know?
post #4545 of 5198
I wouldn't risk leaving it on unattended, quite a few people have done that and something has halted and a single fixed screen appeared for hours on end causing screenburn. Wheras before their TV had no damage, running "break in" to prevent damage caused it!
post #4546 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbottom View Post

I wouldn't risk leaving it on unattended, quite a few people have done that and something has halted and a single fixed screen appeared for hours on end causing screenburn. Wheras before their TV had no damage, running "break in" to prevent damage caused it!

Totally understand, and will more than likely go along with that sound-sounding advice.
post #4547 of 5198
Oh, and another stupid question that I've never seen an answer for, and I've read most of this thread since joining AVS (I've also asked the question, but without an answer):

What's the point of lowering picture settings if you're running break-in slides? There's nothing to worry about, right? It's all uniform anyway. I've just never understood why it shouldn't be set on torch mode at this time to wear in the phosphors of the plasma.

If there is a reason, I've set Brightness and Contrast to 50 (out of 100), and Cell Light to 10 (out of 20). All at 50%. Sound fair enough, or should anything/everything be reduced?

Also, I'm back to considering leaving my PS3 on for the weekend. Isn't it true that after 15 minutes of inactivity the TV will shut off anyway? That's what I have the settings on, at least. I wanted to make sure that would actually be the case if, say, my PS3 decided to shut off on its own. And it's running a slide show, so I have no reason to believe that it will do anything other than run the 120 images over and over and over again.
post #4548 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

Does putting the panel brightness to low instead of mid offer and extra help for IR prevention combined with the lower contrasts? What about gamma? Any sweet spot? Specifically regarding IR, not in relation to what looks correct for a proper calibration. I ask because I have one setting for movies and what not, and then one setting for regular tv and tv shows with logos. Because I was testing things on low contrast on my ST60 and had it at 25 (looks terrible obviously), brightness at 0, panel brightness at LOW, and gamma at I think 2.4, pixel orbiter ON, overscan ON, and the Investigation Discovery logo still reared its ugly head with some light IR but still clearly visible (on the screen wipe) with probably only 2 hours of my wife watching the channel.

This isn't really a scientific assessment, but in my experience the LOW panel brightness seems to have at least as much IR potential as MID regardless of the fact that it doesn't get as bright. If that's true (and I'd have to really test it more than I have to be sure) I'd imagine it has something to do with the driving method. There's more going on with IR than actual light output; it likely has to do with voltages and other fun electrical details of the panel operation. I can't think of any reason that gamma would impact IR, as the serious IR is caused by full-bright elements (white is worst, but full bright single color is bad too and can actually create IR with a tint). Gamma should only impact the rise from black, not the peak light output.

I know that I've never seen long-term IR with the panel at or below 30 on MID, even when used as a desktop display. I spent a few hours the other day preparing a number of graphs in excel and writing up some stuff in Word (why do that on a plasma? Because I can!) and couldn't find any trace of any Windows UI or other static elements when I checked later. If I'm playing a particularly difficult game on the panel (something with ultra-bright static HUDs) I sometimes drop to around 50 and feel pretty safe there, though that's only really a decent brightness at night. I can't say what happens as the number of hours goes way up; I never find myself playing more than like 2 hours of a game even on a weekend binge night, so I suppose it's possible that even at low contrast once you get up to like 30-40 hours of logo exposure it could still stick.

Anyway, when you spot IR in that situation you might want to check for it again after an hour of some other content. I expect that at such low light output it was just some residual charge that could go away within a short span. Usually if the IR is bright (do the residual D would be brighter than the background) you're looking at residual charge, while an inverse ghost (darker D than background) means it'll be around for at least an hour or more.

While we're on the subject I just want to say that it's really obnoxious that so many channels use white logos at this point. And they're mostly ridiculously large. Even if I wasn't worried about IR I'd be complaining, because a bright white element on the screen just ruins the picture overall. Come on network guys, the era of random channel surfing is over for cable/satellite; I know what channel I'm on because I picked it from the guide menu. A cable TV takeover from a tech-savy company like Google or Apple can't come soon enough (and it probably won't considering the hold companies like Comcast have).
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

Oh, and another stupid question that I've never seen an answer for, and I've read most of this thread since joining AVS (I've also asked the question, but without an answer):

What's the point of lowering picture settings if you're running break-in slides? There's nothing to worry about, right? It's all uniform anyway. I've just never understood why it shouldn't be set on torch mode at this time to wear in the phosphors of the plasma.

If there is a reason, I've set Brightness and Contrast to 50 (out of 100), and Cell Light to 10 (out of 20). All at 50%. Sound fair enough, or should anything/everything be reduced?

Also, I'm back to considering leaving my PS3 on for the weekend. Isn't it true that after 15 minutes of inactivity the TV will shut off anyway? That's what I have the settings on, at least. I wanted to make sure that would actually be the case if, say, my PS3 decided to shut off on its own. And it's running a slide show, so I have no reason to believe that it will do anything other than run the 120 images over and over and over again.

I think the main reason some people say this is that running white slides at 100% light output means the panel's going to get as hot as at possibly can, and potentially stay there for hours at a time (maybe 100 hours if you just run your break-in straight through). Whether or not this is really a concern I can't say, but as a rule you don't try to run a piece of electronics as hot as it can get for extended periods. Honestly I wouldn't really worry about it if you're using the standard slides that have a number of much darker grey shades mixed in, but I also have pretty good temperature control in the room with the TV. You might want to be more careful if your room gets really warm.

I know D-Nice recommends just running them at full contrast on the Panasonics (his instructions usually say to put it on Custom but don't change anything, so it'll be at 100 contrast by default). The goal is to get the panel exercised as much as possible before the calibration, so higher contrast is going to get it done faster.
post #4549 of 5198
I've searched for solutions to my burn-in problem and have not found anything really helpful, so here goes. I have a two year old Panasonic 42ST30 that suffers from a burn-in issue. The left and right columns on the edges of the screen beyond the 4:3 picture is brighter than the interior section. I think the Anti-Image Retention setting "4:3 Side Bars" was set too high for too long a period. My wife chooses the SD channel over the HD often enough. So, with the left and right columns beyond the 4:3 area being a bit too bright is there a way to equalize the brightness? I doubt I can make the edges darker, but can I make the interior match in brightness? Would running a pattern that would brighten the 4:3 section with pixel orbiting off help? Would I create two vertical lines where the dark and light meet? I can get a picture later if it helps explain what's wrong.

Thanks for looking,

kbchurch
Edited by kbchurch - 8/7/13 at 11:34am
post #4550 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbchurch View Post

I've searched for solutions to my burn-in problem and have not found anything really helpful, so here goes. I have a two year old Panasonic 42ST30 that suffers from a burn-in issue. The left and right columns on the edges of the screen beyond the 4:3 picture is brighter than the interior section. I think the Anti-Image Retention setting "4:3 Side Bars" was set too high for too long a period. My wife chooses the SD channel over the HD often enough. So, with the left and right columns beyond the 4:3 area being a bit too bright is there a way to equalize the brightness? I doubt I can make the edges darker, but can I make the interior match in brightness? Would running a pattern that would brighten the 4:3 section with pixel orbiting off help? Would I create two vertical lines where the dark and light meet? I can get a picture later if it helps explain what's wrong.

Thanks for looking,

kbchurch

You know the break-in slides that people use with all of the different colors?

You can create slides that are black on the inside and have the colors on the outside. Your TV would be running through different colors with black in the middle, like this (just in red):





Other things you can do to help are:

1) Change the side bars from black to gray in your TV options.

2) Tell your wife to start watching damn HD content lol.
post #4551 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

You know the break-in slides that people use with all of the different colors?

You can create slides that are black on the inside and have the colors on the outside. Your TV would be running through different colors with black in the middle, like this (just in red):





Other things you can do to help are:

1) Change the side bars from black to gray in your TV options.

2) Tell your wife to start watching damn HD content lol.

I would actually need the opposite. I would need colors on the inside and black on the outside so I can raise the interior brightness up to that of the sides. If the built-in screen wipe could only go back and forth along this 4:3 area that would be great, and that the wipe time could be set higher than 15 minutes. I currently have the sidebars set to black as not to get them any lighter.

Yeah, and TWC has their HD channels work all the time with the box we have.
post #4552 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbchurch View Post

I would actually need the opposite. I would need colors on the inside and black on the outside so I can raise the interior brightness up to that of the sides. If the built-in screen wipe could only go back and forth along this 4:3 area that would be great, and that the wipe time could be set higher than 15 minutes. I currently have the sidebars set to black as not to get them any lighter.

Yeah, and TWC has their HD channels work all the time with the box we have.

Sorry man, but you're doing it the wrong way. The sides aren't brighter because they've been having lighter images, it's because those phosphors haven't aged as much as the phosphors on the inside. They're stronger, therefore they're brighter. You need to age them more.

Emitting blackness means emitting almost nothing, which is what you'd want on the inside. They need to "age less" than the ones on the outside as you run them, so it's necessary that you get some color/work in on the outside so they can start to match up a little bit more.

Again, set the sidebars to light gray. Making it black is making everything worse.

Don't take my word for it; let others chime in and tell you as well.
post #4553 of 5198
Ouch, I thought since the phosphors on the sides had previously been set to high (bright) when viewing 4:3 programming that they had been getting a brighter constant image and therefore got even more burn-in. I set it to low (light) for now. I guess the key is that the more phosphors age the dimmer they become. Now I just need something that will age those and only those phosphors.


Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

Sorry man, but you're doing it the wrong way. The sides aren't brighter because they've been having lighter images, it's because those phosphors haven't aged as much as the phosphors on the inside. They're stronger, therefore they're brighter. You need to age them more.

Emitting blackness means emitting almost nothing, which is what you'd want on the inside. They need to "age less" than the ones on the outside as you run them, so it's necessary that you get some color/work in on the outside so they can start to match up a little bit more.

Again, set the sidebars to light gray. Making it black is making everything worse.

Don't take my word for it; let others chime in and tell you as well.
post #4554 of 5198
By the way guys, I have a Disney WOW Pixel Flipper question:

Should I run it at 60Hz or 24Hz/96Hz? I'm wondering because they produce two different looking images. At 60Hz, there is a lot of flicker, which kind of looks cool but I don't know if that's the right effect. When I enable Cinema Smooth (capable for rendering 24 FPS), there isn't any flicker when it's running. It looks a lot more consistent and smooth.

Which one is the proper/recommended setting for what it's trying to do with regard to the actual algorithm?

Thanks.
post #4555 of 5198
If 4:3 content shows up with the black bars on the sides, you can set the TV to display it wide/just so it fills the screen, rather than leaving the bars.
post #4556 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

By the way guys, I have a Disney WOW Pixel Flipper question:

Should I run it at 60Hz or 24Hz/96Hz? I'm wondering because they produce two different looking images. At 60Hz, there is a lot of flicker, which kind of looks cool but I don't know if that's the right effect. When I enable Cinema Smooth (capable for rendering 24 FPS), there isn't any flicker when it's running. It looks a lot more consistent and smooth.

Which one is the proper/recommended setting for what it's trying to do with regard to the actual algorithm?

Thanks.
That's actually a pretty good question. I wouldn't think it matters that much as long as the static shows up evenly, but who knows, one may work better than the other. I've always just left mine at 60hz. Never thought to try 96hz.
post #4557 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

If 4:3 content shows up with the black bars on the sides, you can set the TV to display it wide/just so it fills the screen, rather than leaving the bars.

That will help alleviate the problem from happening more, but like my plasma downstairs of seven years (and my parents really couldn't care less about IR/burn-in even though there's a lot on this old set), the lighter sides will forever be there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

That's actually a pretty good question. I wouldn't think it matters that much as long as the static shows up evenly, but who knows, one may work better than the other. I've always just left mine at 60hz. Never thought to try 96hz.

Yeah, I'm just wondering. I'm still breaking in my plasma (have done 170 hours of slides, and am now just trying to do things with the pixels to "work them in," and I feel like maybe the flicker is a good example of having the pixels shut off and on more, even though it looks a bit different and awkward. So I guess I don't know which setting is the recommended one.

I'll basically treat it as a poll. So far, I have one person (you) using 60Hz.
post #4558 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

If 4:3 content shows up with the black bars on the sides, you can set the TV to display it wide/just so it fills the screen, rather than leaving the bars.

I'm going to give this a try.
post #4559 of 5198
Yeah, it should remember the screen setting for 480i. Good luck.
post #4560 of 5198
So creating those slides like you said muffinmcfluffin may help if I run them for a few hours? Perhaps create one of those long running Youtube videos to wipe the screen for hours. Thanks for the explainations.
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