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Spherex XBOX 5.1 - BUZZING

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
Hey guys,

I have a spherex xbox 5.1 surround sound system. the speakers really buzz a lot - changing to anolgue and back can lessen it, sometimes, but it comes back...


Any ideas?
post #2 of 18
I have the Spherex and it does the same thing. I contacted them and they said to send it in. I have just been to lazy to send it. I think I'm just going to get an Onkyo or something.
post #3 of 18
Mine only makes a hissing/buzzing noise if it is not fed a signal or when in 2.1 Mode. In 5.1, DD, DTS, it has no problems.
post #4 of 18
My cousin's Spherex for Xbox speaker system recently developed continuous buzzing in the rear speakers. Another website had suggestions of resoldering diodes, replacing diodes, and resoldering in that area. I first resoldered the diodes, it partially fixed the problem, the buzzing became intermittent. I then replaced the 4 - 1N4007 diodes (1 Amp, 700 volts RMS max) with 4 - 1N5004 diodes (3 Amp, 280 volts RMS max). This had no effect, still intermittent buzzing. I then re-melted all the solder joints on the back of the power board, but not the small surface mount component joints, this fixed the buzzing! So it was probably 2 cold solder joints on the power board, I don't think the diodes needed replacing.

Attached are the before pics, sorry, no after pics. Notice how the diodes and resistor previously gave off enough heat to brown the circuit board. Seems like it might be a fire hazard.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any injury or property damage that may occur with my described procedure. Hazardous voltages may exist. Get a qualified technician to perform any fix.
LL
LL
LL
post #5 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy90127 View Post

My cousin's Spherex for Xbox speaker system recently developed continuous buzzing in the rear speakers. Another website had suggestions of resoldering diodes, replacing diodes, and resoldering in that area. I first resoldered the diodes, it partially fixed the problem, the buzzing became intermittent. I then replaced the 4 - 1N4007 diodes (1 Amp, 700 volts RMS max) with 4 - 1N5004 diodes (3 Amp, 280 volts RMS max). This had no effect, still intermittent buzzing. I then re-melted all the solder joints on the back of the power board, but not the small surface mount component joints, this fixed the buzzing! So it was probably 2 cold solder joints on the power board, I don't think the diodes needed replacing.

Attached are the before pics, sorry, no after pics. Notice how the diodes and resistor previously gave off enough heat to brown the circuit board. Seems like it might be a fire hazard.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any injury or property damage that may occur with my described procedure. Hazardous voltages may exist. Get a qualified technician to perform any fix.

Thanks for the info. This is great news. I have a couple of these systems and they both have annoying buzz from rear speakers. I will try this fix on mine.

Are yours still not buzzing?
post #6 of 18
Still buzz free!
post #7 of 18
Hi guys.
Anybody there wants to sell their Spherex 5.1 System?
Thanx in advance,
Spiktsu
post #8 of 18
Sorry for bumping a really old thread. I am having issues with my Spherex XBOX 5.1 system. It doesn't turn on at all. I saw the suggestion in the thread and replaced the diodes twice but still no luck. I have tested the fuses and they are fine. I can't figure out what else could be wrong. There is also a big resister where the diodes go (see pic in the previous posts) could that have gone bad? If someone can help I'll post pics.
Thanks
post #9 of 18
How did your system fail? Was there smoke, noise, intermittent problems, etc? The diode replacement and the remelting of the cold solder joints is just to fix the buzzing problem, the speaker system still worked with the buzzing.

If the resistor is physically destroyed, that could be the culprit, but if it still looks largely intact, it's probably still working.

Electrolytic capacitors will dry out over time and stop working. In one of the pictures you can see a big black one. You can't really tell if an electrolytic has dried out or not without removing it from the circuit board and testing it. Electrolytics can also leak or burst. They have a foil disk on the top with an X pattern scribed in it. The X pattern is where the capacitor will burst if it overheats. If you see any oozying/bursting, you could try to replace those capacitors. Capacitors can hold their charge even after the power cord is disconnected, hazardous voltages may exist.

Other than that, you would have to get someone to analyze whats wrong, with an ohm meter or oscilloscope, but without a schematic, that may prove fruitless.
post #10 of 18
Ziggy, My system died a long time ago but at that time i didn't know what to do with it. Recently i learned to solder things so i thought i'll try to fix this. I read somewhere else, someone whos system was turning on and they replace the diodes and it worked, that is way i replaced the diodes. Resistor seem fine to me, it is beige color. One this i have noticed is that my resister has golden, golden, brown, yellow bands but the pic you have posted has different color bands, not sure if it makes any diff. I have the same burn marks on the power board and look exactly the same as the pic you have posted. Other then that I haven't noticed anything else.

I am running out of ideas frown.gif
post #11 of 18
If you have an ohm meter. or multimeter, you can unsolder one of the resistor's legs and measure it's resistance. You can read about the color codes here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_color_code We may have different revisions of power supply boards, and thus different components. Basic multimeters are pretty cheap nowadays. You can read about multimeters here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter

The 4 diodes are probably wired in a full wave diode bridge configuration, you can read about this here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge If it is a bridge, you can measure the input AC and the output DC to verify correct operation. Once again I have to warn you that you can electrocute yourself with a slip of your hand. The input to the transformer will be 120 Volts AC (in North America), the output AC for an audio amplifier is usually somewhat less, but that depends on the type of transformer.

If you didn't read correct AC at the input, you could suspect the transformer. If you read good AC but no DC, then one of the diodes is bad, but since you replaced them, this is unlikely unless you used the wrong type.
post #12 of 18
Ziggy, i have tried 1N5404 and 1N4007 and it made no diff. I guess maybe the fault is somewhere else. I thought the diodes were bad because there is a big burn mark there, just like the one in your pic. I am also thinking could it be that the cord that goes from the box to the receive have gone bad? I think it is unlikely but i'll try to replace it. Btw to test the system, it should turn out without all the connections to the box right?

I have never dealt with voltages so i think i'll leave this aside for now. This is very disappointing since this is a very bad ass system. lol
post #13 of 18
Someone posted on fixya:

I bought one xbox 5.1 subwoofer which was not funtioning.After sending to local repairer for troubleshooting and correction, it was detected that the three ICs (covered with heatsincs) on the circuit board (amplifier) where the five satellite speakers pick their output from is faulty.

Any idea Ziggy?
post #14 of 18
As I mentioned initially, I worked on my cousin's system, so I don't have it in front of me to try things, sorry.

Regarding the IC's, they could be faulty, or maybe not, you would be just shooting in the dark replacing them. The numbers on the front of the IC will tell you what they are, and you can look them up on the internet to see if they are still available and how much they are. If they are simple devices you may even be able to test them with a multimeter.
post #15 of 18
Sounds to complicated and prob not worth the trouble. I guess i'll leave this project for another time.
post #16 of 18
I don't know how the Spherex works, but simple audio amplifiers usually have 1 or 2 output transistors per channel, and usually have a heat sink attached to them. The transistors usually have 3 legs. One amplifier I dealt with had the protection circuitry absent from it to reduce complexity and cost. Blowing an output transistor was a regular occurrence, and easily fixed with replacement. However, a blown output transistor only affects 1 channel at a time, not the whole system.

To re-iterate, replacing the diodes and remelting the solder joints in that area on the Spherex did not fix the buzzing problem for me. At that point I had nothing to lose, so I went nuts and remelted the majority of solder joints on that board, but I didn't remelt the joints associated with the small surface mount components, as if these get out of place, or bridged with solder, it can be tricky to fix. This mass remelting did apparently fix the problem as the buzzing went away.

Remelting is fairly easy, just touch your soldering iron tip to a joint until it's molten, then move on to the next joint. Regarding unsafe voltages, it's unlikely that a low wattage home audio board is going to be holding lethal voltage when unplugged, but I couldn't guarantee it.
post #17 of 18
Hii Shampoo
My name is Javez aka OohlalaBoi, lol, was just wondering hope you dont think im cheeky. As you saying you have been having proble with your spherex 5.1 system i was wondering whether you managed to get it fix. If so im glad for ya as i understand the frustration not being able to enjoy that beast. Well thats me dilemna right now as ive lost me remote control during house moving and hell im so gutted. I just wanna know whether you will be interested in selling your remote control if you havent .managed to fix your system. If you decide you will please put me on your priority list and email me at :- javezr@btinternet.com and we shall take it from there. Thanxs in advance and if you wont be selling it Good luck and hope u get to enjoy its sound soon. Take care
post #18 of 18

I have one which I am willing to sell.

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