How do I relocate an electrical outlet? (or other solutions to move power)

power strip in wall is a no-no. against code in all areas and is a fire hazard (jacket is not in-wall rated).


an electrician should charge about 75 bucks to just add an outlet where you want.....it would be very simple to tap off the current low outlet. the trouble would be getting an electrician to actually do it. might have to get a licensed apprentice to do it on the side one night or weekend.

btw, this is something you can EASILY do yourself with minimal reading.

Easy stuff, about $5 in materials.
supplies: "old work" outlet box, new outlet, correct number of feet of 14-2 Romex, outlet cover

- shut off power to lower circuit (test with a probe or a lamp).
- pull outlet from lower box to give you room to work.
- cut required dimension square at upper box location.
- push fishtape up to new hole from inside lower box.
- tie string to fishtape, then pull string down from upper box hole.
- tie 14-2 Romex to string and pull up to upper hole.
- make connections at both locations, per code of course.

If you go the DIY route get one of these to check your final work:



And before you start, test your source outlet to make sure it is wired correctly.

Also visit HD and familiarize yourself with an "Old Work" electrical box. That is what you are going to want to use to add the outlet. the hole you cut in the wall for the new outlet is based on those boxes

Might as well pick up an intro home wiring book and learn the basics while you're at it.

This is a fantastic opportunity to read up, learn a new skill, buy a few useful tools (always good ) and save some $$. A straight up outlet extension is just about the easiest pulling job you can find - no studs, headers or floors to go through! Just make sure to thoroughly understand the task at hand and its safety implications before unscrewing that outlet plate.

dnddwilson covered the materials required. For tools, all you'd need would be the usual assortment of screwdrivers, a drywall keyhole saw to cut the new outlet hole, a blue steel fish tape to do the pulling, wire strippers that can handle 12- and 14- gauge NM, a utility knife for jacket, and a circuit tester for safety. Needlenose pliers help when working in a tight existing box. You'll also need a few marettes (wire nuts) to safely make the connections.

Spend the $10 or so on a set of strippers/pliers that strip Romex. They will also have a nice end for bending your ground wire, and will also strip each wire after the outer jacket is removed from the Romex.

Also check the strip of the Romex jacket to make sure you didn't slice in to any of the wires inside.

Easy to do.

Catch-22. If this is an outside wall you'll have to get past the insulation. And in any case check for a fire block (transverse stud section in the wall cavity - usually about half-way up). There's no easy way to get past a fire block; you have to go into the wall and hole or notch it.

Catch-23. If the existing box is one with "pinch-type" grabbers where the NM (Romex) enters the box, it is a royal PITA to pull anything out of the old box. You might have to surgically remove the grabbers. Or pull the new cable into the old box.

Catch-24. 14-2 NM is probably the size you'll need, but if the circuit is on a 20A breaker code requires 12-2.


As for tools, there's a little electricians pliers sold by HD and Lowe's that strips 12-2 and 14-2 NM cable sheath (all at once) plus individual wires, plus has a cutter at the bottom and narrow jaws at the top. Looks like an alligator with red and black handles. I use it all the time. My favorite feature is the hook-forming holes. Strip a wire, stick one tip in the hole and twist the tool about 180° and it makes a hook in the wire just the right size to fit under a screw on the fixture (outlet). (I never back-stab.) [I see Josh made the same point.]

Insulation is no problem if you're only going up a couple feet. Fire block? That's not code in a normal wall.

If I understand correctly, it depends on the height of the wall. I *think* if the stud space exceeds 8', it needs to be separated with a fire block. I run into them into places one wouldn't expect to, though...

Thanks DMF.
You covered a lot of the stuff I missed.
As with any project, there can always be gotcha's.

I have found that a coping saw blade with one of the end "knuckles" cut off gives you a MUCH cleaner cut. I use this method whenever I am cutting into painted drywall. The standard keyhole saws with their large cutting teeth can sometimes pull hunks of drywall out with them especially if you happen to cut into a taped seam. The coping saw blade makes the task as clean as surgery.

To cut new outlet boxes into the drywall, I always use a razor knife. Two reasons:

1. It makes much less dust than a saw.

2. If there does happen to be anything behind the drywall, the blade cannot reach it. I would hate to cut into an electrical wire or a plumbing line.

With a little practice, cutting with a razor knife is fast and easy. Care must be taken to avoid cutting the hands or fingers though. A sturdy knife is essential.

For very long drywall cuts I have used a jig saw with the blade tip cut off so it only reaches 1/2" deep. This works very well, but makes a lot of dust.

Yeah, he's just mixing up words. Its just transverse bracing that is very normal for a lot of builders to stiffen a wall (especially a 2x4 wall)....it serves no fireblocking purpose whatsoever obviously (if you understand what fireblocking is, lol)

and insulation should not be a problem no matter what kind it is, even spray foam can pretty easily be pushed through with a steel fishtape....

BTW....if you do happen to have a brace in there, you can drill a hole in the top plate and beat it out with rebar.

http://www.flatwiresolutions.com/html/electrical.html

mounts to the surface of the drywall ... mud over it, paint, you're done. No more difficult than an extension cord and is UL approved.

Their web site says they are still going through the approval process, do you have more up to date information?

plus, for a noob, seems like remarkably more work (mudding/finishing painting)....etc....just pay a sparky or like everyone else says, learn to do this job, it will be useful for the rest of your life.

Actually, I just finished putting in a supplemental outlet - saw this thread, so I figured I would take some pictures to show the process.

-->Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, do not attempt if , etc...

Gather up your tools - You'll need things like this:



In my case, I needed another outlet inside the equipment room that was on the same line/circuit as my riser plugs and step lights (X10 to IR transmission cure). Got to get rid of the electrical plug that's pictured in the riser above.

Shut off the breaker to the circuit, and confirm that it is not live. Confirm it twice or more if you're paranoid like me!

Remove the old receptacle to expose the wiring - look around with a flashlight to see which side is mounted to a stud. this may give you some idea of any obstructions between you and the new plug location. Maybe run a stud finder along the path, and see if there's anything there (knocking and listening for density changes works to a degree also).

Grab yourself an EasyBox:



These are designed to go into a cutout, and have the top and bottom plates screw tighten against the drywall from behind. Really nice design!

Find your credit card! No, not for the electrician, but I learned it jut so happens that it is the same size as the hole you want to cut. I've found many ways to use a credit card for my build



Measure off where you want the new outlet, bearing in mind any potential obstacles that may sit between the new and the one you're tapping off of (fireblocks, plumbing stacks, dead mice, inlaws....). Trace your card...



You are under no obligation to use your kids' Halloween pencil, but you can if you like . Grab your drywall saw (couple bucks at the hardware store) and do your best to stay between the lines



Fish tape or equivalent - you'll need something to get the wire from the old box to the new. If there's no insulation or obstacles, you may luck out and be able to push/pull the raw wire through....you'll have to determine which works in your situation. I lucked out, as I wanted my outlet on the back of the wall from one of my steplights:



I took the new wire (ensure it is the same rating as the existing wire - if it's 14/2, go with 14/2 and so on...), loosend the clamps inside the old box, and pushed the chunk of new wire out through my new opening. Fed the wire into the new box (knockout whichever hole tab is closest) and began to place the box into the hole



You can see that the top and bottom 'tabs' are hinged, so that they collapse inward to allow the box to slide in. Once you tighten the hold down clamps, the box ends will swing out and engage the tabs from beind. Tightening of the four screws on the outside edge of the box will snug up the tabs that sandwich the drywall and give a firm hold.



Ground your box with the bare copper wire, and trim the black/white to a length that is about two end-to-end folds (inside the box) long. Strip, being careful not to nick or expose the insulation. In my case, I threw in an old X10 outlet, so I didn't take photos - but for a regular outlet, bend the exposed wire with needle nose pliers (or the proper tool) to round the wire end to sit beneath the receptacle screws. Black to brass screw (Line) and white to chrome screw (neutral - should be the 'fat blade' plug). Your wiring may differ, so ensure that your existing wiring colors were done right and to the Code that applies to your jurisdiction. The plug checker tool that was mentioned earlier in the thread can assist with that. If there is any doubt as to which wire is which - consult a professional. Bad wiring can kill, and no home project is worth a family's safety.

Reaching maximum image limit......moving on to part II....

Part II

Phew! Anyways, once the new plug is connected, turn your attention back to the donor receptacle - strip the jacket and insulation and trim to length. If your wiring is 'correct' (and you have confirmed that it is to Code in some fashion), then you can connect to your existing wiring. In my case, the step light is connected with Marrettes (colored twist on thingies), so all my blacks go to black and whites to white. Ground the wire in the box - don't forget! In your situation with a receptacle, you've likely got 4 screws - with black to one side, white to the other. Again, if your wiring has black as line and white as neutral, you may connect your new wires to the appropriate screw terminals on the receptacle. I prefer not to back-stab either (some plugs/switches have wire holes that you push the wire in and they 'lock' it in). Check connections to ensure that they are firm and tight. Leave no exposed wiring peeking out from the Marette or away from screw terminals....

Keep in mind box fill -try not to cram too many Marrettes or wires into one box. Code stipulates how many of what can be where - worth reading up on IMHO. Fold your wiring back into the box, ensuring that you do not loosen any connections and that you can feed the receptacle into the box without crushing anything. Ensure screw terminals are not contacting the sides of the metal box. Neat and tidy is a good thing....



Screw in the receptacles (leave the cover plates off for now), and double-check your work - think through the process and make sure you haven't missed anything.

Have a loved-one turn on the breaker on your signal and test - you can also test your loved-one by letting out a blood curdling shriek when they kick the breaker over.....your mileage on that may vary I imagine of two people, only one will be laughing...

Plug something in and test out your new setup. If there are any funny odors, sparks, blackouts or horrific noises eminating from your breaker panel or boxes - STOP. Kill the power, and call in the cavalry.

Again, something like this does make a great DIY project and gives the satisfaction/fun of learning something new. If you are in any uncomfortable working with electrical, then I encourage you to seek assistance - try and have whoever that may be walk you through it as they do it. It's a great way to pass along the skills.

Good luck with your project!

Good primer. If you are using plastic boxes be sure to attach the ground wire to the appropriate screw on the outlet.

As for black and white wires just remember to "line up the W's"

the White wire goes to Wide slot in the receptacle. Sometimes you don't have enough light to see what color the screws are.

You learn something new everyday. I just never paid that close of attention to it. BTW, I DO use one of those testers picturesd earlier, so I know I've always gotten them right.

Great tips and primer!

Tom