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Harvest Ridge Theater (A CJ Project)

post #1 of 1625
Thread Starter 
I've been browsing this forum for about four years, and have recently begun to build my home theater. Two years ago, we moved to a new home we had built in extreme northern Virginia. My lovely wife fell in love with the space above ground, and I fell for the blank canvas that was the basement. As soon as the foundation was poured, I began measuring and working various plan scenarios.

We picked a lot that had a walkout basement...meaning that the back of the basement is at grade, while the front of the basement is below grade. The back is framed with 2x8's.

I have plans for a 23' x 13' dedicated theater with a separate equipment room. I'm planning a large screen, something on the order of 130" - 145", acoustically transparent, of course. Seating will most likely be for 8. I'm also finishing the remainder of the basement at the same time, and I'm doing all of the work myself. I don't plan on this being a quick build. I'm also going to borrow heavily from some of the designs that I've seen here over the years. Hope you all don't mind...

Here's the plan that I'm building:

In May, we consolidated all of the crap, ahem..I mean treasures...to one side of the basement, and started framing. That was one long weekend. Here's the photos of the raw space afer consolidation. Here's a view of the empty storage area:

The main body of the basement looking back to the storage area (notice the intimidating pile of wood and that brand new 6' level!):

Looking back toward the future bar area and theater:

Another view back to the theater:

Here's a shot of the sump closet and door outside:

I've been collecting tools and "stuff" for the build since we moved in 2 years ago. I decided to go pneumatic, so I picked up a pneumatic framing nailer, finish nailer, brad nailer, compressor, and of course...nails!

Over the next week or so, I'll work to get you caught up to where I am now.
post #2 of 1625
Thread Starter 
The following weekend, we built storage shelves in the storage room. Our plan was to build some storage shelves, frame the storage room, fill the shelves with the stuff from the rest of the room, then begin framing the reaminder of the basement. Memorial Day Weekend, we built these shelves and framed the storage room.

Here's the first storage shelf. It's 8' long, and 2' wide...

...with wheels. We modeled them after the huge sliding medical files that are used to save space. You can load them up and slide them next to each other to save floor space.

The top shelf is almost 6' tall (sized to slide under a doorway). The bottom shelf and sides are made of 2"x4"s, and the upper shelves are made with 2"x3"s. I'm really happy with how well these turned out.
post #3 of 1625
Thread Starter 
On Memorial Day, we began framing the basement. It was just two years and one week since we moved in. I guess I'm really deliberate at planning, because I absolutely could not decide on a plan. A coworker of mine finished his basement the last year and was quite a resource for getting me started. I've also been really awed by the members of this forum. You guys are really building some killer theaters!

Here's the framing of the storage room:

Side Wall:

One proud dude!

I had to frame this doorway twice...when I framed it for the first time, I had the jack studs outside the king stud...it wasn't holding up the header. The second time was much, much easier.

I will make a plug for a trigger-activated Ramset.

I purchased a hammer-type concrete mailer, and it didn't work too well. I got frustrated and purchased a trigger-type unit and it works MUCH better. I fired nails into the concrete and the beam above. The concrete nails performated the 5/16" steel relatively easily. Here's a photo of the column and beam. You can see one of the nails in the top plate:

Also, you can see the gas pipe that runs about 6" in front of the bean all the way across the basement. Since the gas pipe isn't too bad, I guess I'll hide it with a soffit.

The back wall of the basement is framed with 2"x8"s, so no framing is required. The wife did start talking about adding a door and window....
post #4 of 1625
Thread Starter 
On the Tuesday after Memorial day, I went to the local town office and pulled ermits for the work. There's a holy war between those who feel permits aren't necessary (what the city doesn't know won't hurt them) and those who feel permits have benefits. I pulled permits so that I could have a set of experienced eyes review my work. I provided a copy of my plans, and signed an affidavit stating that I was doing the work myself, and paid the fees. A few days later, I picket up my plumbing, electrical, and building permits. After posting them proudly in the front window, I began working on framing the sump pumd closet and the side wall.

Sump pump closet:

Starting down the wall. There's a small 3' x 2.5' under the fireplace. Don't know why we need an alcove like this, but I'm framing it in as is:

Yes, that's a server rack in the back. When we moved in, I installed a server rack and two 24 port patch panels. I ran 30 internet drops and 15 cable drops throughout the house. I ran everything to the patch panels, then jumpered them to the router. Teh server is a home built file server. I have 1.5 TB installed in a RAID 5 array. Always wanted a home server!

We ran out of 2" x 4"s, so we started moving the stuff onto the storage shelves and into the storage room:

Here's the stuff that wouldn't fit. This is where the theater will be:

Yes, that's a server rack in the back of the room. As soon as we moved in, I installed a server rack and two 24 port patch panels. I ran 30 internet drops and 15 cable TV drops throughout the house. I built the server...it's a PIII 933 with 2 GB of RAM and 1.5 TB of storage (RAID 5 array). I may use it as the beginning of a media server when the build is finished.
post #5 of 1625
Looking good. Just a heads up. When roughing in a double wide door the rules of thumb of how much extra space to leave is different than single doors. I ASSUMED that since leaving 30 inches for a 28 inch single door that you could just leave 50 inches for a double 48. Well if it has the T molding (T-astrigal ) on the edge of one door and the one side locks in place it needs an extra inch. I had to do surgery on my framing to fit in one of those doors.
post #6 of 1625
Just a what I wish I had done better item. When I did my basement project I repacked the rim-joist area of the basement with insulation and doubled it up. I wish that I had taken the first layer down and sprayed that area with a layer of foam insulation to seal all the possible air leaks. Then put the fiberglass back for sound deadening. After completion I could still feel drafts coming out my outlets and I know it was from the rim-joist area. I know they sell DIY kits and It's on my list for next time around.
post #7 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Thanks Big. I think I have enough space built in for the double doors. I have a set in my master bathroom and I used it as a measurement standard. I was worried that I had too much space and that I'd need to shim it up. I'm definately going to measure it tonight to see how much wiggle room I'll have.

I have two sets of double doors in the basement, one to the storage area and one to the theater.

Funny that you mention about the rim joist. As I was framing the first outside wall, I felt a warm breeze wafting in. I pulled back the insulation and found that in a few places, I could see light under the rim joist between it and the foundation. I picked up a can of foam insulation and went to it. It was only then that I found the amazing properties of that stuff...it'll stick to anything and will never come off. The folks at work had quite a time asking why my hands and part of my arms were yellow!

I have only foamed two of the outside walls at this point. I've got two more to do, then I'm going outside and hit it from there too.

Thank you for the input and feedback. I have really enjoyed following your build. I only hope that I can do as well.

post #8 of 1625
Thread Starter 
When we last heard from our intrepid builders, they had just finished framing a closet for the sump pump. The following weekend, we made progress on continuing down the north wall towards the theater. 1/3 of the way down the wall, the theater wall began.

How does one know that the wife is on board?

She cuts the studs and top/bottom plates to the correct size, helps lift walls, helps clean up after, and shares the dream!

Framing the north wall of the theater:

The northeast corner of the theater has the electrical breaker box, sewer cleanout and the fresh water in.

Originally, the fresh water pipe was vertical. I moved it to allow me to have only one access panel for plumbing. I turned off the water to the street as well as at the valve. I replumbed it to allow for consolidation, then turned everything back on. Amazingly, there were no leaks!

Back to the theater. All of the walls in the theater are to be decoupled from the joists above. This will reduce sound transmission to the floor above. To accomplish this decoupling, we installed RSIC clips, model DC04's. These clips are manufactured in Australia and consist of a metal L shaped bracket, a significant rubber washer, and a metal gromet that fits inside the washer to provide stability. Here's a picture of a clip, as well as a drawing of the decoupled wall assembly.

The walls are 9' tall, so we built the walls a few inches shorter than the final wall height. This allowed a few inches gap between the top plate and the joists above. We assembled the wall on the floor, then install the clips to the
top plate every 3 feet. Heavy wood screws held the clip to the top plate. We then stood up the wall section, and fastened the clips to the joists above with 1 1/4' drywall screws. The wall was leveled and the bottom plate attached to the concrete floor using the Ramset mentioned earlier.

Here's a couple of photos of the clips in action:

One more of the wall section to round out this post.

It took a bit of time to cut the studs, lay out the wall, figure out how to install the clips, and install the wall. I truly hope that these make a significant difference. All of the theater walls will be 2 layers of 5/8" drywall, separated with Green Glue!
post #9 of 1625
Thread Starter 
The following weekend, we finished framing the theater and part of the hallway. The entryway leading to the theater really bugged me for quite some time. I envisioned a grand entry with a ticket niche, and a short hallway leading to the theater. I went through multiple designs and wasted a lot of tape laying the designs out on the floor before I was able to find one that I really liked. The plan that I included at the top of the thread is the final one the I am building, so you really didn't get a chance to see the interim designs

We started by framing along the back wall of the theater, then came down the entry wall. Finally, we framed the screen wall and the short outside wall leading to the sump pump.

Back wall:

I'll need to build a soffit in the back to hide this beam.

Back and side walls:

The missing part will be on a 45 degree angle to add a design element to enlarge the theater a bit in the center, as well as to hide the support column. At this point, there will be zero columns visible in the theater. Current size is 23' long by 14.5' wide in the front and 11' wide in the back. I'm shooting for 2 rows of 4 seats.

Here's the entry way to the theater:

There's been some debate on this forum about the usefulness of double doors and how there's an issue with sound transmission. I opted for the double doors because I like the larger entry way and I like the look. I'll deal with the sound transmission.

From the back looking towards the screen wall:

Each wall in the theater is 2" x 4" construction and are decoupled from the ceiling joists by RSIC clips. All of the walls that have a living space on the other side are framed as double walls...both are 2" x 4" construction, decoupled from the ceiling and are separated by a 1.5" gap. Each wall is independant. Everything that I've read seems to indicate that this will significantly improve sound transmission and retard flanking.

The interior walls of the theater will be covered with two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between. The walls will also be insulated with R-13 insulation, leaving the 1.5" void between each wall. Again, this should significantly retard sound transmission.

post #10 of 1625
CJ - Your sure going whole hog on isolation. Wish I had the width/height to have dome that. Looking good.

post #11 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Mark. Wait till you see what I'm doing with the ceiling....

I'm posting frequently to get everyone caught up. I'm relatively confident in my framing, plumbing, and electrical skills, but I'm not sure about acoustical design and such. I'm going to look into hiring Bpape to help with that.

I also want to get everyone caught up so I can ask the hard questions that I need help with....

I've also learned a lot from your build, and can't wait to see it in person.

post #12 of 1625
Nice work. Looks like you are doing it the "right" way! Keep the pics coming.
post #13 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Gonzo. I'm sure trying to do this right. Someone turned me on to Holmes on Homes and that's Mike's big thing..."if you are going to do it, do it right".

I'm also in awe of the woodwork in your build. Very well done.

I'll keep the posts coming...

post #14 of 1625
I like the rolling storage great Idea. I have thought of doing something similar in my garage. Like these

post #15 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Thanks. I can't believe that more folks don't do this, as they really save space. I thought this one up on my own.

The mistake that I made was that the units are too long and the wheels are too small. The size of the units means that they can hold a lot of stuff and are heavy. The wheels don't get rolling too easily and the wife has difficulty getting them moving. I don't have too much trouble, but I think when the build is done, I'll cut them down a bit and add larger wheels. That way she'll be able to reach the junk...ahem...sorry, I mean "stuff that she hasn't seen in years", much easier.

post #16 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Hello, my name is CJ and it's been over a week since my last post. Please forgive me...I've been reading the posts of others and have neglected you, my reader. Now, back to catching you all up.

In my last post, we covered the wall detail for all of the walls within the theater. Progress on the framing went really quickly when we were working on it (DUH!). Life and Scout camps, vacations and the like attempted to intrude on our build, but we wound up taking only a few weeks off. A few weeks before my in-laws came for a week long visit, we completed the following items:

Here's a shot of the theater entrance. The theater is on the left, and a bathroom is on the right. The hallway leads to the equipment room (currently housing my home server).

The cutout on the right will be used as a display niche, while the cutout on the left will be used for a ticket booth...something like what BritInVA did. I think this will be simply a piece of frosted glass lit from behind (in the space between the back wall of the theater and the screen wall (did I mention we're doing an AT screen?). The space between the back wall and the screen wall will be between 2 and 3 feet. The space above the doorway will be used as a lighted marqui, while stealthfully hiding the beam.

Right side of the theater entry

Left side looking into the back of the theater:

View from the stair landing (from right to left): Stairway up, Closet doorway, bathroom, theater entry, back wall of the theater

Equipment room looking to the back of the house. Four foot double doors to the theater wil be on the right, bathroom on left:

Back of the bathroom looking toward the back of the house.

The column in the bathroom will be hidden by a cabinet (I don't yet know how I'm going to pull this off yet...

I know this is a dedicated theater building forum, but I'm going to post photos of the rest of the basement as well, at least until complaints are heard. I'll try to keep it heavy on the theater...
post #17 of 1625
Thread Starter 
A week or so later, we had a visit from my in-laws. I have to say that I love them to death, but I'm not too social after a few days, particularly when I have a great project sitting right below me! My father in law and I stole away to the basement on day 4 to frame out the equipment room.

This was Glen's first time framing a structure, so we learned as we went along.

Here's a photo of the back wall and doorway into one side of the HVAC/Water heater area:

The server rack is atached to the floor, so I'm going to try to work around it as much as I can. I'm going to move the patch panels, routers, and switch to a small wall-mounted rack on the back wall (just above where it is currently). The rack may be used as the equipment rack on the other side of this room.

Along the way, I needed to be able to add a wet bar outside the theater (on the other side of the screen wall). To do that, I needed to add a Y to the plumbing stack.

We cut the stack out, and regiggered it so that the Y could be added. When the builder plumbed the house originally, they did not make the waste stack perpendicular to the slab. When I "fixed" it, I made it work so that the wall could continue where it was (hiding the waste stack) without having to bump it out. It's water tight, just not 100% perpendicular. You'll remember that the fresh water inlet (the black pipe) was moved to it's new location to allow for only one access panel in the theater. This stack and breaker box is located in the left rear corner of the theater.

Any idea how I can treat the waste water pipe so you can't hear it in the theater when someone flushes a toilet upstairs? I was thinking about wrapping it in Lincoustic, but I don't know if that will work.

Also along the way, I relocated the water hammer arrestor. This blue device sits between the inside plumbing and the outside inlet. It is charged with pressurized air in one half and water in the other half. It is supposed to stop water hammer(s?) from entering the house and damaging the water heater and other stuff. It was originally inside the equipment room above the server stack. We moved it inside the HVAC/WH closet.

I got the water back on with only about 15 hours being without fresh water...

You see, I worked on it with the in-laws here late on one evening. When I realized we needed additional fittings, I drove over to BigBlue and found out that they were closed. I asked a clerk in the parking lot why they had closed early...as it was only 8:30pm. She said they always closed at 8:00pm on SUNDAY....I thought it was SATURDAY (they close at 10:00pm on Saturday)!

I went home and borrowed some water in buckets from the neighbors for flushing and spent the night hoping that the in-laws would just forget this little "issue".

I was there at 6:00am the next morning to pick up the fittings that I needed. The plumbing was working again by 9:00ish.

I'm absolutely certain that they will be telling this story ages and ages from now. ...sigh....

post #18 of 1625
I think the thing I hate the most about DIY projects is having to drive to the home improvement store all the darn time. There always seems to be something that you didn't realize you needed. If you try to be proactive and get extra stuff, you rarely need it.

Big Orange now has a lot of my money with Big Blue getting some too.
post #19 of 1625
Thread Starter 
I grew up in a little bitty town of 900 in southwest OK. The nearest lumber yard was 25 miles away. It had a limited inventory and weird hours.

I now live in a town of 25,000 that has a number of lumber yards and home centers. I'm 2 miles from HD and BigBlue (they are across the street from each other). Though I've made more trips to both than I care to admit, I'm really thankful that I don't live in that little bitty town I grew up in. I'd never be able to make progress, cause I'd always be in the car headed to town!

I briefly thought about counting them in my thread as Cathan has, but I summed it up and got really embarrased (I've also stolen too much from him thus far).

post #20 of 1625
Thread Starter 
After we had finished most of the framing in the theater and the remainder of the basement, it was on to the ceiling.

We planned to do a soffit in the front of the room to hide the HVAC and a large beam. There is a beam in the back of the room that would be hidden as well by a soffit. I was really searching for a way to hide these with some sort of design flair. With 9' ceilings in the basement, we have some room to work with (one of the best upgrades that we purchased when we built the house).

After countless hours reading threads on this board, I stumbled upon the idea of a tray ceiling in the middle of the theater. I didn't fully think through the amount of work involved, but that's were all of the good ones make their mistakes, no?

We are working towards a 10' wide AT screen (estimate), with a 2' space between the back wall of the theater and the false screen wall. This will house speakers.

Here's a photo of the front of the room showing the HVAC trunk and the beams (looking towards the back of the theater):

Here's one of the beam and trunk in the front (after framing):

Here's one of the back beam:

We started framing the soffits to form the tray ceiling by creating small rectangles (soft of mini-walls), just as everyone else has done. What made this install unique is that each of these soffits were suspended with RSIC clips (again, to reduce sound transmission through the ceiling to the joists above).

I started with the back soffit:

Then around to the front:

The RSIC clips that we used to isolate the walls from the joists above were used to suspend the central part of the ceiling from the joists. The sides of the soffits that form the tray ceiling are connected to the walls. Teh walls are decoupled from the joists above, so there's bound to be a significant reduction of flanking noise. Here's a photo that I took tonight that shows a few of the clips at work holding up the soffit. I'm not sure that these are necessary, but I had a few extras and I like to over engineer.

Here's a copy of the rough plan that I created after the ceiling framing was finished:

The tray ceiling measures about 7'9" long by 7'1" wode. The areas on the sides are about 3' wide, while the areas in the front and back of the tray are 3'10" in the back and 5'1" in the front (about 3' after the false screen wall is installed).
post #21 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Since we were on a roll with the theater tray ceiling, we decided to tackle the soffits. We had a soffit over the storage area to hide a natural gas pipe and to provide design continuity across the main wall of the basement. We also needed to hide a beam and post on the other side of the basement by the door, and build enclose the theater entry marquis.

Here's some photos of the soffit over the storage area. They are only about 12" tall and 14" deep. They conceal a black iron natural gas pipe and provide for a clean line across the right side of the basement. They take up a little space but I like to clean look.

We also have a beam that runs across the back of the basement by the doorway. We needed to conceal this, so we built a soffit made of 2x2s and 1/2" particle board.

We went ahead and enclosed the support column, but we weren't sure we would like it as we were enclosing it. We decided to finish closing it up then live with it for a while and see if we liked it.

While we had the particle board out, we enclosed the theater entry marquis. The marquis will consist of a lighted sign over the doorway. It has not been designed yet...

The wife started talking about adding a window and changing out the door, so that's where we are headed next.

post #22 of 1625
Any updates?

You look like you know what you are doing with the framing. I'm looking at a similar type of setup. What would have done if you had a window well/ window int he area where you wanted to put the theater? Is there a way to frame in a window without allowing flanking noise? Would you have just framed over it?
post #23 of 1625
Thread Starter 
We didn't like the way that the french door leading outside opened. It opened right into a support column (with about 1.5' clearance). When we built the house, the builder offered an option to upgrade to a sliding door for $1800, but they would not install it below grade (even though my basement is a walkout and the back is above grade). We lived with the door for a while and became quite dissatisfied with the way it opened. I made a decision to replace it with a slider. A new subproject was borne!

I picked up a Pella slider from big blue and installed it one afternoon:

No framing was required...it was just cut the caulking and the 6 large finish nails holding the old door and pull it out. The hardest part of this was figuring out that I needed to order new siding for the back of the house. The old door had a brick mold around it, so the trim was much wider than that around the new door (both doors are the same size). The next morning, I was at big blue ordering a box of siding and some J-channel to go around the new window and the other door that the wife wanted.

I reinstalled the siding and left a 2" gap on both sides of the door (because the existing pieces were too short). It always seems that every project of subproject that I work on needs something ordered...

The old door was moved to the garage and we spent the rest of the weekend cleaning it up and getting it ready to be reinstalled in the back of the house.
post #24 of 1625
Thread Starter 
The wife and I had decided that the corner of the basement was too dark and that it would be nice to add a desk in it. We decided we wanted a window. I made another trip to big blue and we picked up a 33"x44" Pella window to match the door and some 2"x8" (the back of the house is framed with 2"x8"s). This one required framing and major cutting (it's always scary cutting a hole to the outside of your house).

I had a bunch of new siding on hand and J-channel to work with. The siding only took 2 weeks to come in on a special order.

The builder did not use 1/2" sheathing on the outside of the structure, nor did they use a vapor barrier. Their sheathing was an engineered material that was rather thin. I was told they it included an integrated vapor barrier. When I began to work on the back of the house, I decided to wrap the portion that I was working on in Tyvek. I very nearly replaced the sheathing on the entire back of the house, but I quickly talked myself out of it. I purchased a 3' tall roll of HouseWrap and wrapped the outside (from 9' down). I made sure to tape the edges and seams really well (thanks Hometime and TOH for the tips).

Ran out of daylight before all of the siding was back up.

The siding was all replaced the next afternoon, right before large rainstorm.

Good as new (with very few "spare parts")!

Siding is hard to separate and pull apart without the right tools. For this round, I picked up one of these:

Highly recommended!

All of my friends think I'm crazy for doing this myself. I'm having the time of my life (this stuff is really fun)!
post #25 of 1625
Thread Starter 
To finish the back of the house, we decided to reinstall the 6' french door that we removed from the other side of the basement. We wanted another entry and needed more light, so we began to frame the back wall for this new opening. This one was a bit scary, since it was a large opening in a load bearing wall. Installing a 3' window didn't scare me this much, so precautions were the order of the day.

I installed temporary bracing the make sure that the back of the house wouldn't fall in while I was framing the opening. Looking back on it now, it looks as though the temporary bracing was woefully undersized. Hey...it didn't fall in on me, so I did something right.

No action shots on this one, but I did the same on this wall; ripped down the siding, wrapped the house to 9' in Tyvek, installed the door, then reinstalled the siding.

True to previous experience, I was not able to install all of the siding before dark. Two pieces remained for the next day.

I finished up the next day, and again...good as new.

Back inside to begin HVAC.

post #26 of 1625
All that, and you didn't answer my questions?

post #27 of 1625
Thread Starter 

I haven't seen any questions from you. You sure you have the right project?

post #28 of 1625
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

I grew up in a little bitty town of 900 in southwest OK. The nearest lumber yard was 25 miles away. It had a limited inventory and weird hours.

I now live in a town of 25,000 that has a number of lumber yards and home centers. I'm 2 miles from HD and BigBlue (they are across the street from each other). Though I've made more trips to both than I care to admit, I'm really thankful that I don't live in that little bitty town I grew up in. I'd never be able to make progress, cause I'd always be in the car headed to town!

I briefly thought about counting them in my thread as Cathan has, but I summed it up and got really embarrased (I've also stolen too much from him thus far).


You're a smart man not to count the HD runs. It makes me almost want to cry thinking about the fact that I'll likely triple my current count by the time I get done.

Very nice work by the way. You seem to be racing out the start after a long, long planning phase. Keep it up!! You know I'll be watching.
post #29 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the comments. I'm following your thread rather closely, and I'm in awe of the quantity of work that you have bitten off. Our paths are rather similar.

There's no freaking way that I'm publishing how many runs I'm making between HD and Lowe's. The wife is keeping track, and there's been a sizable abount of money flowing out. Thank God for our involvement in Cub and Boy Scouts. Events in the fall took us away from the theater for nearly 2.5 months (and stopped the bleeding somewhat).

I'm trying to get the thread caught up to where I am now. The last post was from work completed in October. I'm currently working to begin insulation...everything else is done, inspected and approved. I'm hesitating to get started with insulation because I'm working to install the security cabling, and design a solution for a hush box at the back of the theater.

I'll get the thread caught up hopefully in the near future.

post #30 of 1625
Originally Posted by MacBuster View Post

Any updates?

You look like you know what you are doing with the framing. I'm looking at a similar type of setup. What would have done if you had a window well/ window int he area where you wanted to put the theater? Is there a way to frame in a window without allowing flanking noise? Would you have just framed over it?

Originally Posted by MacBuster View Post

All that, and you didn't answer my questions?

Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post


I haven't seen any questions from you. You sure you have the right project?


I think he's talking about the one I quoted. I framed over my windows, but they weren't egress windows, just casement windows. I would have probably made a removable plug for an egress window. But flanking would not have been the driver in my design, I am not sure how you address that. I know Cathan is putting in egress windows, but I don't think they are in the theater.

You are cruising CJ.
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